Robino Jones

I don't know about Fotokem having Imagicas but they scanned a project for me last year in 4K on Scanity . They saved me quite a bit of money by splicing / prepping together a couple rolls. They charged by the hour not footage count and my job was under 1 hour and didn't have to pay for the full hour. Only the time needed for scan and data transfer. The scans were really really nice.

This is a true 12V battery, (operates between 11.1 and 12.6 VDC) this is what I use for my Aaton. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1048193-REG/bescor_fp_12vatm_12v_lithium_ion_battery.html I didn't know about 12V DTap / Xlr Voltage regulators , would love to get one so I can use my Vmount batteries as well if needed. If anyone has links to a good one would be great. I found this but it's a little pricy: https://proflixsales.com/12ptif.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp12PTIF&sc_intid=12PTIF&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6qPc1MK_5gIVYhh9Ch1p_QUKEAQYAiABEgJrivD_BwE

Thanks, yes we used my Aaton.

Added contrast to your image to see the spots better. Could this be from the scan? Maybe you can't see the spots in other places because there's detail in the frame? Just a guess..

Sharing this music video I directed and shot some of the 4x3 footage, Mark Putnam was DP on this. Shot on 5207 and 5219 and scanned on my scanner. I recommend watching in 4K or 2K since the film grain is not totally eradicated from the YouTube re-encoding at those resolutions. 1080 looks really bad. I noticed that most music videos, even big artists never upload 2k or 4K, looks much better for Youtube.

Contact ReelGood film Monday am- http://www.reelgoodfilm.com/

I power my AATON 35III (rated 10-14V, same as XTR per your info) using a couple of these batteries: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1048193-REG/bescor_fp_12vatm_12v_lithium_ion_battery.html On my last shoot we shot 7 magazines and powered the tap using a single battery. Lasted the entire day. 11.4V was the charge left on the battery when we put the camera back in the case at the end of the day. I wouldn't use 14.4V batteries on older film cameras like AATON rated 10-14V because on a full charge these batteries sometimes can go up to 15+V. I'm sure there is some tolerance built in but it's not worth risking it in my opinion. I have no experience with the BL but quick search says they are 12V.

According to Massive Dev Chart, DoubleX in D76 1+1 (ISO 250) should be 10min at 20C DoubleX in D76 1+2 (ISO 250) should be 12min at 22C DoubleX in D76 1+1 (ISO 250) should be 10min at 20C DoubleX in D76 1+3 (ISO 250) should be 20min at 22C You should get this app, it's the best I know out there for recipes. I use it on iOS but i'm sure it's on android as well. They also have a website and this is what they have for 5222 in D76 https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=%Kodak+Double-X%&Developer=%D-76%&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C&TimeUnits=D

I hand process 35mm color film in b&w developer sometimes and it has a really cool look. For special projects only, I wouldn't process large batches by hand if you need consistency. I use 5207 and 5213 and you can process up to 100' in a lomo tank. You can also use little 35mm still film stainless steel reels for testing small batch and fine tune your chemistry. For the remjet here's how to take care of it. I used to do the baking soda / hot water trick and it was not good, was really hard to do but with this recipe, you dip the film in the solution and then rinse with water, the remjet comes out automatically like magic. To create the Remjet removal solution you will need these: - Sodium sulfate https://www.freestylephoto.biz/101340-Formulary-Sodium-Sulfite-1-Lb - Sodium Hydroxide https://www.lowes.com/pd/Roebic-Laboratories-Inc-32-oz-Drain-Cleaner-Crystals/4751600 - Sodium Metaborate (Borax) https://www.freestylephoto.biz/101285-Formulary-Sodium-Metaborate-1-Lb 1. Bring 900ml of water (filtered is better but not required) to a boil. (I put 900ml so if you let the water boil by mistake you'll have the required 800ml left) 2. Pour 800ml of the hot water in a beaker 3. Add 1 to 2 grams of Sodium Hydroxide and stir until it’s completely dissolved. 4. Add 100 grams of Sodium Sulfite and stir until it’s completely dissolved. 5. Add 20 grams of Sodium Metaborate (borax) and stir until it’s completely dissolved. 6. Fill the beaker with water until you reach 1000ml 7. Done! Bottle the solution. I don’t use it warm - just room temp, same as your processing chemicals. To use it, simply pour the solution in your developing tank before you start processing and let it sit for 30sec. Agitate a little and pour the solution back in your bottle - that stuff is reusable. Then fill your processing can with water and agitate a bit and pour out. The black remjet stuff will come out. Rinse and repeat 2-3 times and you’re done you can now start processing.

Here's an update - I did 2 tests this morning. First is outside and had to put on the mattebox because I needed a lot of NDs for the 1/4th exposure.To block the light between frames I taped a flap of duvetyne and was moving it out of the way when taking frames. This was a fail and I still saw the split screen. (i was expecting it..kind of 😉 For the second test I did it inside and used the lens cap on the lens to block the light between frames - and it worked! The table was lit by the window light behind me and that's why you see a bunch of shadows moving but there's no split screen. Shot the tests on leftover 200T (5213) and hand processed it in Ilfosol 3. I looped each sequence twice since it's very short, I can only load around 3.5feet on each "still film" stainless steel reels. So I'm happy - my camera is fine and as Dom and Webster said, it's because of the mirror shutter. If I need to shot some stop motion i'll just make sure to do it in controlled lighting and use the lens cap. Thanks for the help guys, scan is below:

I just put some still film in my camera and it advanced nicely. Is there any color reversal still film in bulk these days? That would be amazing.

Yes It makes sense that this happened in my test since the light panel I was drawing on was very bright and shining directly through the lens. Must have been waiting at least 10 seconds min between frames.. I might design an automatic capping shutter for my lenses if my next test works (by putting lens cap on between frames)

My AATON 35III movement doesn't use registration pins, it's a single pulldown claw - would it work well with KS perforated film? - Would be great to be able to shoot some ILFORD BW or TMax for specialty projects. And what about remjet pass at the lab - would that hurt the non-remjet still film?

Ok yes that makes sense. So my camera is fine, I'll shoot another test with cap on between frames and see what happens. to be continued.

I don’t recall - this was done a while back. But it was shot in a very dark room. Only light was a light panel in front of camera that I was drawing on.. I typically close the viewfinder from the toggle on the camera body under the handle. My bet is that it was closed and for sure there was no light hitting the back of camera / viewfinder because the room was in the dark