Kip Kubin

A friend just gave me three Spectra Color Contrast and Panchromatic Viewing Filters. From their website I gather One is dark and looks like an ND.09 - They say that is to judge the films compression of light values and to check hot spots and shadow detail @250 ASA and up One is lighter... that is to check a situation that is @ASA250 and below. One is Panchromatic and has a yellow cast to check if tonal values will blend together for black and white. So are these used much? I do see the benefit of the Panchromatic filter for quick reference to color combinations and contrast as far as black and white photography goes.... how about the others? Any help and thought on their use would be appreciated.

I'll add a few things I was told o always enter frame with the sticks open until you actually slated the take.... this way it's visually clear to the editor when a slate has or will happen. On a P2 shoot the slate should be in frame before the camera in in record.. this way the editor has the slate at the top of each clip for ease of log and transfer of the clip. Someone said it earlier.. get out of the shot ASAP. Verbally call every shot. I've gotten thank you calls from editors because some piece of sound equiptment failed and they had to line audio to each take manually... just saying "mark" helps no one. "Scene 5 Take 2" makes things easy. Also, check with the script supervisor on how they want to mark the slate... it's their notes that mater... those notes are what the editor goes by. Always wait for the DP to ask for the slate.. he/she may want to check the frame, look at lights. In my world it's... roll sound.. "speed" ... slate in... that's when my job begins

Thanks for posting. Did you rate the stock at 50 when you shot?

It looked like a Les Bosher creation to me as I hadn't seen an Arri adapter like that ever.... thanks for the education

I asked the Jason (the ebay seller) seller a question via email about the lens adapter in the package and received an answer that, most likely, only an Aaton owner would know so I was convinced it was no scam. Also, his email did confirm that he was in Kingston NY. It's a great package and from my computer seems very legit.

Are you on mac os 10.6? If so there is a problem with some external devices and os 10.6...if you upgraded try going back to 10.5

Bought an adapter a week ago from him/his company. All went smoothly. He responded to each email within a day and shipped promptly once my money was in his account.

SOLD

Sold my 18mm Cooke but re-listed the Bolex EL/9mm Cooke for a buy it now of $1000 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...Category=151720

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=140290530000 I'm selling my Bolex EL. Link above is to the ebay sale. If there are no bids I'll except offers from members of this forum and end the auction early. The camera works flawlessly. I'm selling to raise cash to complete a set of lenses I've started buying. PM me any offers or questions you may have. CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY CONTINENTAL US ONLY I'm also selling an 18mm Cooke Speed Panchro as well if your interested

Hello Cinematographers. I'm wanting to buy a lens for a rapidly approaching project. I have a question for all of you first. What should I expect to pay for an early 70's Russian Square Front Anamorphic Lens? Preferably a 35mm Are there any Zooms I should be looking at? I know these lenses have a "look" and may not cut well with other more current lenses but I'm in charge and don't really care about that as much as I'm actually going for an early 70's Russian Lens look. RAF Camera has this 50mm for around $500 euro... but their sold out. http://rafcamera.com/lomo-square-front-ana...2dfb9f21dc9ed65 Does anyone have a PL mount square front anamorphic lens that they are not happy with... or just don't use enough and are willing to part with? Thanks Kip Kubin Please post any replies as to the going rate for these lenses in this thread and email any potential sales to arp2600@bellsouth.net

Thanks Kip Kubin

At the same aperture you will get darker blacks and better, or lets say richer, color rendering with primes over the Nikons... that's fairly obvious, I think because you are using the lens for the purpose it was intended. I've done tests with my Bolex and with 35mm Lens adapters using Nikkons and Cookes. http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/6474/1199160779.jpg Not exactly what your asking but you can spot the difference fairly quickly between the lenses. My suggestion is to find out what lens adapters are made or can be made and look into building your set a lens or two at a time with 16mm primes. I did that with a small set of Cookes for my Bolex and I couldn't be happier with the results... my Cookes were only a few hundred more than Nikkons. Just took a while to build as I was hunting for them on Ebay\ I've also used 35mm and 16mm Cookes on my Bolex for the same project and the footage and images cut just fine. I hope that helps you.

I finally have a music video that lends itself to the look of Tarkovsky's Solaris and in turn Vadim Yusov's Solaris. One of my favorite movies of all time. I've come up empty on all searches for this topic so if Vadim is reading this or if anybody can help out... What lenses were used on this film? Thanks Kip Kubin

Thanks That helps.

Can someone give me a quick description of the differences between the two stocks. I have 800' of each and want to know the best use for them. I have a music video coming up that will be in the forrest and want to know which of the two would be best to use. Thanks

Any links to what's left? Couldn't find anything out on their website.

Can someone point me to where I can find follow focus gears for older Cooke lenses? http://www.visualproducts.com/storeProduct...=15&Cat3=24 The lenses are speed panchro series III as shown in the above link. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Kip

Image is softened when the adapter is added... using an HVX200 you can crank up the detail level and fiddle with the detail coring to compensate. Also, you'll start seeing the ground glass pattern around f5.6 on the attached lens. That being said, I never take mine off... I love the thing! If you have a video camera without a detachable lens the attachment can work wonders Hope that helps Kip

Thank you

Please help me out. I'm lousy with math and know this formula must be out there somewhere but I couldn't find it. How do I calculate the amount to increase or decrease the tempo of a song to overcrank/undercrank and still have the lip sync match. fron 24 fps to 32/40 or 18 Thanks in advance. Kip

All bolex magazines use an external motor to drive the film stock. Both motors (Cam and Mag) use the camera's battery not the camera's motor. You can find the motors fairly cheep on ebay to use or get spairs. Also I should point out that the motors are detachable so If you just have one motor it can be switched to whatever magazine you are loading. Hope that helps Kip

I'll just take a stab at your question... the Bayo to C mount adapter's threded end goes into the camera first. This is how the C mount lens focal length is preserved. Looking at what I think is the lens you are talking about online shows an end that's relitively flat and would not be able to thread onto a properly mounted Bayo to C mount adapter. I've attached a photo of a Bolex Bayonet to c mount adapter in a Bolex Bayonet mount... that might help answer your question. Sorry I could only help out with the "why" of your question. Kip

Matt Box and Rods - Do they come with the base plate?... how do they attach to the camera? How much? Mag and Motor - How much? Barney - might need to see a photo... will it fit an EL? You can email pr send me a PM. Kip Kubin

Thanks Email sent I'll contact Chambless about some spares as they appear to be something that is easily lost. Kip