Kristian Schumacher

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I have had a very positive experience with Les Bosher, proffessional and prompt. Hope it is just a communication problem between the two of you. I did have some trouble getting hold of him by e-mail, but talked on the phone a few times and found him very reasonable and helpful. He did a great camera conversion for me. Kristian

Thanks a lot Jim, I will give both those ways a try and see what works best. Kristian

Hi everyone! I have a question that should be simple, but I can't figure it out. I have some 16mm footage that I shot at 200-250fps scanned and loaded in my FCP 6.0 project. Now I want to ramp up and down the speed within the clip, ideally gradually, to leave only parts of the clip in slow motion while some faster. Some sort of key frame- speed change function that will let me tweak the speed at several points within the clip.....? Any help appreciated :rolleyes: And Happy New year! Kristian

Hi Felix, Actually, you would be closer to the right fov with an APS-C format camera - like Nikon or Canons consumer SLRs. Full frame 36x24mm is similar (same?) as Vista Vision. In the old film SLR cameras, the film moved sideways through the camera. In movie cameras it moves downwards - so the image is captured across the film rather than along - if that makes sense. Full frame in a movie camera s35 is about 24mmx18mm so closer to an APS-C of about 24x15mm. These are just rough numbers from memory, I may be a little off here and there:-) Best of luck! Kristian

I am certainly no expert on this, but I would think that the 3100 K temp of the BH bulb in a work lamp would be like 3100 K in any other lamp. Altough 3100 strikes me as a little warm (?) I couldn't see the temperature on the lights at Lowel homepage - probably depends on the bulb...? Oh, well - not that much help....other than bumping you up on the front page ;) Kristian

Thanks again Bengt, The adapter is made by Schneider, it has the 55mm thread, but is probably not made for that lens, no... It will not screw all the way in the thread, or the optical elements will actually touch. So it may very well be a bad solution. That is why I would like to do some experimenting to see what combination would be best to get a wider angle than the current 10mm. Alternatively, I will keep my eyes out for a wider c-mount lens. The lens gives good results on it's own, though and I am happy with its performance - just not with the adapter. I don't actually recall the f-stop for the shots with the adapter, but I think they were at least not all open - probably 5.6-8-ish So that should not be the problem. I will give the tape trick another go, and see if I can see any of the same problems on the tape as I saw on the footage. No worries about the FFD-mistake....I am good with the theoretical stuff - It is the real world of getting good results that is my problem :lol: Kristian

Hjertelig takk, Bengt! I used a piece of tape in the gate, but no magnifying glass/lupe - maybe that would have done the trick as far as spotting the blurry areas of my image. My camera is non-reflex, so I figured this was the only way to check - in the gate. Actually, my main subject was reasonably well focused when using the adapter, but a large area about 1/3 of the frame on the left of the image was severely blurred. The whole frame looked good in the shots with the 10mm by itself, but maybe the FFD problem didn't show until it had the adapter on...? This was my first and only time using this adapter, so it is not so easy to tell if the problem is with the adapter or with the FFD. That's why I'd like to learn some more about this lens and adapter the not-so-hard way :huh: Thanks again, Bengt. I'll try it again tomorrow with tape in gate, at infinity with a magnifying glass. Kristian

Thanks for that Charles, I was hoping to do the fiddling myself without the help of an expensive tech, but like you said - finding a working camera with a large enough sensor is probably not easy. I think I read somewhere that someone had managed to attach a c-mount to a dslr, but I can't find it again. I guess the lens would need to fit almost 2cm further back than my nikon lenses, so that would be a tricky mount, though excellent for testing lenses. Kristian

Anybody? :rolleyes: Kristian

Hi! Just wanted to mention that my test footage was actually with a recentered mount (the bike and the pigeons were with the cumbersome 10-20mm sigma - no aperture ring, @10mm) The other stuff was Nikkor lenses. My s16 K-3 has a recentered Nikon mount by Les Bosher. It is a great camera, but not that great for wide angle options, as others here have worked out... I no longer have the 10-20 Sigma, but will try my Zenitar 16mm next time I am shooting something and see how that fares. P.S. really cool to see others interested in the same stuff as me......:-) Kristian

Hi everyone! I have shot some footage for a music video on 16mm and s16. One roll I shot on r16 with my Milliken high speed camera and a Schneider 10mm. The footage looked fine when I just used that lens. But I also tried using a Schneider wide angle adapter with the 10mm - I checked looking into the gate for vignetting before shooting, but the footage shot with the adapter is really blurry in large parts of the image. I couldn't tell just from looking in the gate before shooting..... It will have to do for this time, but I want to solve the problem for next time, So: What is the easiest way to test my c-mount lenses with different adapters etc? I have a Nikon DSLR that would be great to use if I could lock up the mirror and somehow mount the c-mount lenses far enough back into the camera. Or a surveilance video camera with a chip large enough to check sharpness in the corners. Alternatively if there is some still photo camera using film that will accept c-mount lenses. Any ideas how I can shoot stills (ideally digital) with c-mounts? Or another convenient, not too expensive way to experiment with finding the best lens/adapter combination? Thanks, Kristian

Wow! That really works! Both weddings were really moody and great. Nice work and nice choice of medium. Kristian

Hi Daniel, I think that is quite normal. When Les Bosher converted my K3, he recentered the lens mount, changed to Nikon mount and did a great job. But he told me that converting the viewfinder/ ground glass would be very difficult. So I have to imagine about 20% to the right of my frame when I shoot. Sounds like you have to do the same. Kristian

Hi Jason! Nice work. There was a guy here a while ago who did the same thing in Argentina, I believe. I can't find his info, but he made some really beautiful stuff with 16mm. Have a look in the archive and see if you find the link to his telecom company ad about a carrier pigeon. I am starting to experiment with a big helium balloon myself, but the RC heli thing looks really cool. I have only tried some down link stuff with a very small helicopter, but what you have done is soo much cooler... Please show us more! And please give up all your secrets about the heli, camera mounts, tilt/pan, stabilization and so on ;) Great stuff, Kristian

Thanks a lot Jorge, I'll give that a go! Kristian

I am not sure if Jason is just pulling our legs (and he probably is...:-) but if not, it seems very strange to start worrying about the death of 8mm now, and not 15 years ago. I think one of the main attractions to 8mm is that it is a retro-thing, which gives you a 60s-70s feeling when you watch it. I don't think many people shoot 8mm because they want the best detail, sharpness (or "resolution"haha...) possible in the motion picture world.. P.S. I think VHS actually killed 8mm a long time ago as a home movie format. And just like Ford's Model T died a long time ago - it still turns my head and warms my heart whenever I see one still running.... Kristian

Anyone?.... Please...? ;-)

Hi everyone! I have just started editing my music video using Final Cut Express. The footage is a mix of HDV and 16mm telecined to HD (H.264) The finished video will be in PAL SD, but I want the extra resolution to crop/pan/add effects before outputting to SD. So far I have set up my project as a HD timeline, but maybe that is a mistake? I am sure it will work either way, but do you guys have an idea what will give the best results/easiest workflow? All input appreciated :-) Kristian

Hmmm.. I have a feeling there may take more than a simple software upgrade to deliver full DSLR resolution at 24 fps, but I like the idea... I wouldn't be surprised to see a high resolution Nikon video camera with full 36x24 frame and f-mount in the next few years...

Hi Kevin, I guess what you've been doing is the opposite of me -using my Nikon to get light readings for my 16mm camera. But as noted earlier, the kit lenses do not have the same max aperture throughout the zoom range. I rarely use zooms, but I believe you will get consistent results if you keep the aperture smaller than the smaller "max" aperture, ie. if your lens says 18-50mm f. 2.8-4.5 you need to keep it at aperutre 4.5 or smaller to avoid the problem you describe. Kristian

Hi! It is pretty straightforward multiplying and dividing, but I still find this lazy option useful ;-) http://motion.kodak.com/US/en/motion/Produ...Tools/index.htm click on the "film calculator" tool. Kristian

Hi Adam, If you have a digital photo camera, you can use that. Set the iso on the photo camera to match your film, shutter speed to 1/60 for 24 fps and determine the aperture from the digital camera. I find this very useful, and especially with "special" exposures - silhouettes etc. Best of luck, Kristian

Hi Carlos, I had my first camera (K3) done by a tech (Les Bosher), and I just did my first home conversion on a Kodak K-100. I also recentered the lens mount turret, which was the hardest part. For the gate I used a normal small handheld file and a micrometer. Filed and polished and scratch tested. It seems to be fine, but I haven't shot anything with it yet. Kristian

Hi and thanks to both of you, My camera also does slow down at the end of the wind, depending on its mood... My K-3 is even until it cuts - it is nice to have it cut rather than waste film on a slowly winding down camera. The 1 minute wind is exactly what I really like about it - I measure between 50 and 55 seconds before the slow-down. Depending on the "mood" , the camera will run for another 0-15 seconds. I guess a good clean and lube of the drive mechanism may even help the cut-off-at-low-tension feature (I don't know how that works yet, but I just received both service and user manuals for the k-100) The more old film I run through the camera, the more this variation in speed seems to fade - or maybe it was in my head all along ;-) I guess it could be some dirt/grease loosening after sitting in a garage for 20-40 years...? I am really looking forward to seeing some real footage out of this camera, and if it works well, I will post photos from my s16 "hack job" as well... Kristian