Chris Millar

I meant invested in 'green' generators ... So, ok he's the largest today - but then what is this discussion about ? The fact that he soon wont be the largest because of not investing in green technology ... The fact the world has been over-reliant on fossil fuels has been around for decades (half a century maybe?).

There was no warning that this was going to happen ? (I mean that as a question, not a statement) At least no general worldwide consensus or at least 'fad' that we need to perhaps slow down on the use of non-renewable polluting resources ? (that one is a statement) Perhaps if your friend had not invested so heavily then he (or dare I say 'we') wouldn't be in this predicament ? But yes I can see how this must have been a big blow to him, it'll be interesting to see who else it affects - reckon this thread is going to go hot pretty fast ...

gawd I love these forums :lol:

If you are going to but specifically for a conversion get a bayonet model - SB, SBM, EBM, EL ... Much easier to convert... I've done my own home conversions which I've compared myself and had compared by a bolex tech with a proper swiss conversion and got a pass grade - you can do it too ;)

I think people sit on screenplays waiting for the right time to gear up production (for myriad reasons) so if someone else pulls the trigger their hand is forced into starting their own production for fear of a wasted option (excuse the mixed metaphor). The genesis of a concept can come about from a kinda global wide collective consciousness also - a technical example is the amount of people turning up here to show off their 'crazy new HDR/moco/image stabilization idea'

... and dont ever get comfortable ! (at your/our age anyway ...)

If you're going to put all that money into a conversion you may as well go with a newer camera with all its bells and whistles. Even it its just for considering eventual resale on ebay... Proportionally more of the earlier bolexes in super16 have been home conversions.

So quit your moaning and go and 'DO something' ! I'd be asking the mods to delete this thread if I were you ... But so I don't sound like a prick: just take a day or three, you'll be inspired soon enough ;)

Yeh, the ghosting aint so special huh... A whiles back I decided ah bugger it and dont use UV filters anymore (unless I'm filtering B&W for UV that is) - Some alt stills processes are UV dependent anyhoo (Wet Plate Collodion for instance) Haven't scratched a lens yet

Having had the one time privilege of looking through a finder of both I can tell you the 2C aint as bad as your RX1. Mind you the 2C I refer to was a super35 version, if that is any consideration - not sure if its finder was modified but in comparison the RX1 was like looking through a cats bum.

A cracked lens will just give you a low con/flared out possibly ghosted image - focal length and aperture should change things quite a bit, so a zoom would be a good option. For a really obvious cracked lens gag - at least, what an audience will expect of a cracked lens image - I think the suggested broken glass in a matte box will be the eventual winner. Try both I guess - post the results ;)

For bomb related discussion please go to the appropriate thread located here: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?sh...40717&st=20 :rolleyes:

Ok, troll alert back on green ... Next bit of (off topic yes, sorry) conversation >> Have you read any of the books linked by this website ? Take any general enough one and think of it as your single location for newbies to go to and get the basics ;)

Its the second thread I've come across he's gone off topic about the same stuff... A 2001 thread maybe (?)

In trying to avoid confusion you should note you use as much film as you use - 1 frame = 1 frame ... Its no more or less film than at any other speed.

I'll just say it, A Castle/Marcus Phipps - I find you odd (troll alert on yellow) Perhaps have a read up on all the things you want to know about on wikipedia or any of the books listed here: http://astore.amazon.com/cinematographyco?...UTF8&node=1 like with everyone there will likely be a few things that you dont get immediately so search the forums here and its about %95 likely you'll find your topic already answered ... if not then come asking specific questions on things you dont understand. You're not the first 'newbie' ;) so don't speak on their behalf... But please do persevere ! these forums can get cranky at times but the other side of it is a wealth of knowledge, once you know the personalities of the usual suspects and the expectation that a little bit of research should be undertaken before asking for these questions that require near on encyclopedic responses ... (mind you, there are some users here who appear to have both the time and the experience/knowledge to do exactly that - I'll just reiterate/echo that wealth of knowledge part again :lol:) Something to ponder when you're waiting for replies to some of your questions...

OK You could attach it to the back. What is your understanding of a 'back unit' ?

Got an assignment deadline looming ? :rolleyes:

I reckon a lot of the particles flying through the air - dirt and wotnot - help make the effect more apparent ...

What would be the shooting ratio on something like this ? 10:1 and well planned ? Or just 'go and shoot heaps of beautiful stuff' and we'll skim the best in the edit ?

DSLR's will likely be set up to take near instantaneous exposures compared to the actual frame rate - in effect an ultra short shutter angle - in comparison a 35mm could be set up with a very slow motor and a heavy amount of ND to keep that smoother 180deg shutter angle effect. Say your rate is 1 frame per 10sec - thats a 5sec exposure - a DSLR image will get very noisy yes/no (?)

:huh: It exposes for 1/48 sec every 1/24th of a second - not every 1/48th

16mm Adjustable shutter = Bolex wind ups - at least the SB, SBM, RX4 and 5 - 133Deg all the way down to zero. These can be barney'd up and sound synced with the appropriate power tools and feather dusters too...

Mind that this is true with respect to those sources and those sources only - if there is any other lighting (ambient or otherwise) then this equation wont hold true for the light the film eventually receives.

I used magnets and a hall effect sensor for my feedback - but encoders are pretty cheap too ... I've opened up a tobin motor (the style for the wind ups as compared to the crystal unit for the EL I previously mentioned)... Clive has built or bought quite a course gauge one with about 20 or so PPR a little IR LED and photodiode part snuggles around the disk and the enclosure keeps it dark enough... Parts = cheap ! From memory I think there are crystals in the KHz range and you can divide them up but you have to be aware that some dividers 'divide' simply but removing n pulses every nth pulse leaving behind a kind of bastard variable duty cycle 'oblong' wave... Sure you'll get your counts per second but the distribution within that second is all up the wall... Not sure if this is relevant with uP's or not (?) but if memory serves me well it does a PLL's head in