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James Martin

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Everything posted by James Martin

  1. Hi Selling my S16 zoom lens. Was hoping to sell it as part of a kit with my SR3 (see other listing), but getting a lot of enquires about the lens on its own. Very good condition, will be thoroughly checked by ARRI before sale. Comes with hard case, nothing else. 100% working. Ex-rental lens, so not cosmetically perfect. This is a very recent S16 lens, much better than even the fabled 8-64 Canon. S16 zooms didn't get any better, by all accounts this is sharper than most S16 primes. Price: £4,000 GBP + VAT for UK buyers. No VAT for EU or outside of EU buyers. Will ship worldwide in the price. James
  2. Hi all For sale, my personal SR3 kit. Pics to follow, but kit includes: 1x ARRIFLEX 16SR3 High Speed (Ex-Panavision) 1x ARRI Lightweight Bracket + Rods 3x 400' High Speed Magazines 2x Flight Cases 1x ARRI IVS Video Assist 1x ARRI BP-6 Bridge Plate 1x Wide-Angle Eyepiece 1x Eyepiece Extension 1x ARRI MB-17 Matte Box 1x Onboard battery adapter Not included: Batteries (please PM me for details) Also available separately: Canon 6.6-66mm T2.7 S16 lens. ARRI Wired LCS system. Can do a package deal with all three - PM for details. Asking £2,995 or sensible offers. This is an excellent kit. VAT will be added to UK sales, no VAT for buyers outside the UK. Worldwide shipping available.
  3. As far as I recall, the story went a bit like this Zeiss bring out the CP.1s with T1.5 max aperture on three of them, a load of people complain they aren't good wide open For the CP.2s, they just limited the max aperture to T2.1, everyone says "wow these are much better" Then Zeiss release a CP.2 "super speed", which is the same glass but they now open as far as they should and charge more for it. I have seen a lot of tests that say they are far from great wide open. Also, FWIW, Ultra Primes sit between CP.2s and Master Primes.
  4. Gorillapod plus something velcro'd to the iphone to give it a screw thread?
  5. Alexander Email me on James@tee2.tk - I may have what you need James
  6. Selling an ARRI 3-Axis LCS system, wired. Full system with three motors, zoom controller, two FI controllers, cables and all you need to get started. Perfect addition to any high-end digital or film camera. Asking £2,000 + VAT or best offer. No VAT for buyers in the EU with a VAT number or outside the EU. Pictures available if interested.
  7. Hi Greg I can sort you out an ARRI MB-17 that will take 4x4 filters? I have just bought an SR3 myself but I will not need the Matte box that it comes with Am in the UK and will take cash James
  8. I could have a unit custom made for you, but it won't be inexpensive,and I bet the only sound you'll hear is an SR3 whirring away?
  9. Hi Stanislav Please email me on James@tee2.tk with details of lenses you have for sale. I am very interested. The OCT-19 can be adapted to PL easily right? James
  10. Manu I am not far from Stansted airport, I have a 35mm camera and although it is not 4-perf, I have a regular video assist, etc... and you would be welcome to pop over and see it James
  11. Having invested in my own kit, I cannot stress how small a part of the investment the camera is. Think of how much everything else costs first. Eg.... Lenses Matte Box Follow Focus Tripod head Legs Cases The above can set you back another $25,000 without much effort at all... way more if you're getting nice lenses. If you're thinking of hiring lenses in "per job", why not buy lenses and hire a camera instead? Lenses don't date.
  12. I have a 535B, an SR3 HS and I might be adding a 435 just to complete the set :) James
  13. I thought Captain Phillips was all three. I think all the stuff on the US destroyer was C300. It is nice to see S16 still being used though. I have just bought a 35mm and a S16 kit, hoping they will both get some use.
  14. Matt I have an SR3 HS going for a good price which might be of interest to you Email me on James@tee2.tk James
  15. Frame24 seem like the last bastion of film, I wish I could get stuff at their prices years ago! I believe you might also have luck with Panavision - Elliot in the Panastore may be able to help, as they do have an account with Kodak I am sure.
  16. Thanks Phil. I've found a couple of places in America selling them, but TBH Frame24 are doing such good prices I think I'll probably just go with the "fresh" stuff Cheers anyway. Love the sig, btw.
  17. The ALEXA is expensive, like all cameras of that quality, not just because of the image but because of the build quality of the thing. You could say the same about cars... go sit in a Ford, then sit in a Bentley or something. On the package they might seem to do the same thing (both have four wheels etc...), but they are made for entirely different crowds.
  18. Hi all, I've recently treated myself to a 35mm camera as I was offered one at a stunning price. I'm looking to do a test with it, but I wondered if anyone in the UK had any short ends going spare? Thanks James
  19. Hi David A bit late to the party, I have a Sony F35 kit with lenses, to which I have just added an ARRIFLEX 535B
  20. Hi all, Getting to use an F35 fairly soon, but never used one before. Experienced with other high-end cameras (including F900 + ALEXA + RED etc) but I can't for the life of me work out the best way of doing handheld with this thing? My main experience of "flat bottomed" cameras is either the RED, where a bridge plate goes under and then a shoulder cushion snaps into that, or the SR3 where you replace the bridge plate with the handheld system. I'd really rather a snap-in for the bridge plate, to make life easier, but what is the best route for quick handheld with the F35? Or, as quick as you'll ever be with an F35 anyway Cheers JM
  21. Hi All I am currently looking at lenses for rental/purchase over the coming months. I am quiet fond of the Canon HJ11/HJ21 pair that we often see (or I do anyway), but I am curious about the HJ8x5.5 that they also sell. It's range is entirely covered by the HJ11, and the price seems fairly similar as far as I can tell. All I can gleam from Canon's official literature is that it doesn't lose it's stop as much when you've zoomed in (drops from T2.1 to T2.2, instead of T2.7). This seems to go against the idea of it being a lower-cost lens, but I'm still confused. Anyone know the story here? Best James
  22. Well, a Chocolate 1 is pretty mild (I have one) and if it's the same one I think it is, then you'd barely notice it was there - so that may appease him/her. From my end, I could go on forever about the desire to decide on a look as early as you can, to allow the DoP to work for it, but many DoPs these days prefer to leave it to post. At least, the ones I have spoken to do. Perhaps you can persuade him to do a test? Your camera company should let you test the kit for a couple days, why not fire off some footage?
  23. I have worked with directors who use seven or eight takes and I can see the improvement in each. I've also worked with directors who have done multiple takes of inanimate objects. If we were shooting on an ultra-tight film budget, my talented director wouldn't have been able to get the very best from his cast for fear of running over. By the same token, my inexperienced director would have been happy with one take of the plastic figurine. You win some, you lose some. I enjoy film, I enjoy digital. If these directors - and I feel they're responsible, not the technology - are inexperienced, then they should learn. At least they are learning without it costing quite so much. This is of course written from a british perspective, where film is phenomenally expensive! Still, look on the bright side - if they'd been ultra efficient you'd have less work to do, and less money!
  24. Is it "a lot" higher than 1920x1080? I read that the resolution of the chip was only about 2.07 megapixels. Surely that's basically EXACTLY full HD resolution, but translates to lower than HD when the losses of bayer patterning are taken into account? I believe the picture's nice, but I don't like Sony being cryptic about it! James
  25. Hi, First, check with your festival if it MUST be 59.94i - this is a bit strange for a film festival IMHO, but I wouldn't know much about these sorts of things. I would imagine the easiest thing to do is to slow your footage to 23.98fps, then the conversion process to 59.94i is not too bad. I think there would be a few programs that could do this, perhaps Compressor (on Apple) or ProCoder on PC? You will need an HDCAM deck with HD-SDI card in the computer to make the transfer. A post house should be able to do this conversion for you, but it will be expensive! A few hundred dollars probably James
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