Friedemann Wachsmuth

Ron helped designing the process. He did not design it. And yes, sure there might be some color shifts. So what? The results are (or can be) excellent. Excellence is most often not measured with Densitometers.

http://itunes.apple.com/de/app/kodak-cinema-tools/id355215215?mt=8 is not particularly for Super 8 but often useful. And free.

I have done this, Karl. It works. No reason to raise concerns. BTW, E6 is always color controllable in a pretty fair range by tweaking pH. Thats not news. And if you read carefully, you see that I wrote about almost exhausted liquids. The last film run through E6 is not at all getting worse than the first one if you stay within specification. There is no risk at all to run into a "washed-out purplish image with muddy highlights" then. Test clips are certainley always recommended, but who would NOT do them anyway?

Regarding "Development in Tokyo only": If you don't mind removing Remjet, Single-8 film can perfectly be developed in E-6, even at home. The process seems fully compatible. Since the remjet might mess up your chemicals, process R25N last in almost exhausted liquids.

Just shoot. If you can (and you should), shoot a test roll first to see what you get. The 1014 is a very decent camera and if you want "ease", just rely on its automatic settings. Tri-X further is a tolerant stock.

It is probably too late, but since you intend to telecine and postpro this footage anyway, I would have developed these rolls as negatives in some mitigating Developer as Diafine. That would give you 1-2 stops more speed (with tri-x actually 1 2/3 stops) and way more headroom for compensating mistakes. How did it all turn out..?

David, you need a tank for film stock -- looking similar to what you know form photography, but with way larger reel or totally different construction. I recommend to use th Search here (or Google) to get some basic clue about this topic, it has been discussed before :) Home-developing film footgae is big fun and worth the initial hassle. Oh, and if you are on a low budget, check out my DIY tank: http://www.peaceman.de/blog/index.php/inexpensive-super-8-home-processing-tank

There is a simple, yet effective way to make Potassiumpermanganate-based bleach last for months instead of minutes. This is absolutely worth it considering how insanely toxic dichromates are. So how? FIrst of all, use demineralized water for both parts (the acid and the permanganate). This is important, since the latter does react with traces in normal tab water quickly. With this tweak only, the two solutions poured together last many hours instead of minutes. If you add 20g M19 (Photo-Calgon, Sodiumpotassiumhexametaphosphate) oer Liter of mixed solution, it works for many months. This is from an old Agfa Patent EP 1006408 B1, so worth a try :) The Foma Kit is such a rip off.

Keep on explaining, Carl (NOT Karl!). This is truly fascinating and interesting. I poked around a lot with avisynth by now and, even if it it not (really/solely) applying SuperResolution algorithms, it it amazing what it can do to involve the time axis. Don't give up!

David, have a look here: http://www.peaceman.de/blog/index.php/inexpensive-super-8-home-processing-tank And let me know if you need some detailed chemistry recipes. I put a lot of work into fine tuning such and getting to perfect results.

I would love to see a picture of a Wittner 100D with a 100D notch. Have you used the "old" notch ruler? You might have measured wrong (thats pretty easy since that one is made for cameras, not cartridges). I actually have a picture that Wittner sent me during a lengthy conversation about this topic: I have used like 50 cartridges of WIttner's 100D and never seen a different notch. Some very early verisons had a Tungsten Notch though.

See http://www.peaceman.de/blog/index.php/super-8-notch-ruler-new-and-improved to find out all about your camera and how it treats what notch. The advice you got might also vary because not all E100D is notched the same way (Wittner e.g. notches it as 64D). Anyway: The E100D has enormous exposure tolerance. Best is to try it out with a test cartridge.

Thats right, the new Vision 500T is e.g. notched as 400D (!). Odd.

Good starting point: http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=144271 It does require quite some fiddling, but its fun. And free.

Folks, since I could not stand the confusion about S8 cartridge notches any more and got trapped by the "old" Notch Ruler myself, I created some new tools to get and provide ultimate clarity on ASA-Notches (and how Cameras read them) once and for all. Here is the blog post incl. download -- any feedback greatly appreciated! Oh, since english is not my mother tongue, let me know if anything sounds odd or should better be said in a different way. F

Thats great insight, Carl -- and a very good read! I recently wanted to "try out whats possible" and got a roll of Super-8 Ektachrome 100D (exposed in my Nikon R10) scanned by some guy in Holland who has built the IMHO best frame scanner ever, at least in the 2K space. I then used avisynth (and an altered version of Freddy van der Putten's script) to "increase resolution" (among other things). During this I also scaled the scans down to 720p -- this is s single frame result: Before avisynth optimization, the (almost) same frame looked like this. Its indeed quite impressive what software can do, especially free software in this case. And its even more impressive how much data such a little spool actually contains (and how failure tolerant its "encoding" is!)

That would be sweet indeed. No other slide film can be crossed that well, too... I doubt it exists though. Try E100D -- it has quite simliar colors and colorspace, hence not crossable that well.

I absolutely love it!

Just because I posted this somewhere else a minute ago and fits here, this is a quick DIY guide for altering cartridge notches easily to make the camera recognize the actual film stock used. The (cellphone-)photos show making an adapter to close the Tungsten notch, altering the ASA notch width works the same way though. All you need is some oil/vaseline and some solid ribbon epoxy 1: Lubricate the cartridge where the ribbon epoxy will go. Below I used too much oil, use a Q-Tip or so to remove it. Vaseline should work too. 2: Knead the ribbon epoxy well and fill it in the gap. Make sure there are no overlaps thus the cartridge does not get bigger than it was before. Stick a paperclip (or that Q-Tip) in the glue to make removing the part later on easier. 3: The finished Notch-Closer, ready after few minutes. Fits perfectly. Before full hardening, you can model the result with an x-acto-knife or so quite well to make it fit even better. To alter the ASA notch width, do the same but shorten the resulting piece per Notch Ruler. This works great in cameras that do not allow manual exposure override.

avisynth works great with Parallels.