Joerg Polzfusz

Hi! I guess that you can easily end up at f22 on a bright, sunny day even with an ISO50-film when not using any additional filter. (That’s probably the reason why Agfa, Fuji and Kodak stuck to ISO25 for decades.) https://www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/exposure-settings-ev-calculator/

I’m not talking about a „super 8“ group. I am talking about the official „filmshooting“ group: https://m.facebook.com/filmshooting

Hi! While his forum was down for a „short maintenance“ (actually nearly one year), he created a group on facebook as an alternative. So he still might have an active facebook account. Good luck! Jörg

Hello Bruce, a full circle is 360°. Hence, 1% of a circle is 3.6°. In other words: the difference between 130° and 133° is less than 1%. Nobody cares about this small difference when it comes to measuring the exposure. When you’re shaking a handheld exposure meter a little bit, then you’ll cause a greater difference.

Bolex 16mm camera on a drone:

There are some adapters out there, e.g. https://www.amazon.de/Rainbowimaging-ATX2-49-Adapter-belüftet-gebogen/dp/B005FUDZYS (And in this case, I would assume that the „target“ is a cs-mount camera instead of c-mount.) But I have not seen anyone that is actually for sale. Sorry.

Hi! Thanks for sharing! It’s really a great short movie. I like the lighting, especially the reflections on your head/face. I also love how you created a whole spaceship cockpit/bridge out of some tablets/laptops, some illuminated switches and something that is most likely a mixing desk. ? BTW: I don’t think that you are a bad actor. ?

https://www.andecfilm.de/

Hi! Back in era of silent films, it was very common to have tinted b&w-prints. Night scenes became tinted in blue etc.. But what about films shot by amateurs? Dr5.us offered sepia tinting as an option (when still in business). And less than three years ago, Klaus Schreier, a German experimental movie maker, tried DIY-tinting his TriX-Super8-films (see https://www.filmkorn.org/s-w-film-colorieren-ein-versuch-mit-colorvir/?s=Colorvir# ). So, how common was this for amateurs back in the 1920s and on? There might have been labs offering this as a special service (like later dr5.us).

That smell is the result of putting camphor or paper with camphor oil into the film canisters/cans/boxes. This was done to keep the films flexible and to prevent vinegar syndrome.

There are several rumors about the reasons: a) The producers want to hide that they are not using film anymore by turning their videos into audio dramas. b) The colorists are all using the same buggy „cinematic look“-plug-in that does nothing but reducing contrast, saturation and brightness. c) That‘s a requirement of the streaming services (higher compression rates when you cannot see anything - and higher compression rates equals higher profit). d) That’s a requirement of the manufacturers of smartphones/tablets/laptops: When you are streaming such videos, you’ll have to drastically increase the brightness to see anything at all. This will drain your battery much faster. And hence you are more willing to buy a new device that claims to have a longer battery life. But of course, these rumors are all fake. ???

In Germany, there are platforms like https://gearo.de/ or https://www.ufo-filmgeraet.de/fairmieten/ that you can use for renting out your equipment. But I have never used them in any way. And it looks like their websites are only available in German. (Maybe Google Translate can help you to translate the webpages?!) What‘s interesting about the url with „fairmieten“ at the end: When you’re using this platform, then you can only access your own equipment for free ten times a year for a maximum of sixty days (in total). When you exceed this, then you’ll have to pay for renting back your own equipment.

Hi! I can think of three different potential reasons: a) Did you correctly adjust the viewfinder to your eyesight? (When you do have a camera with attached EVF, then the EVF might also be the problem.) b) Are you sure that the lenses have been correctly mounted (not tilted etc.)? c) Could it be that the camera‘s lens mount or the lenses are defective? BTW: Did you check the images on the film with a magnifier? (It could also be a problem with the transfer device.) Did you try printing a Siemens star (e.g. ) or another focusing aid and pinning it onto a tree? (Alternatively, you could also use a newspaper with large headlines.) Then put the camera onto a tripod and try focusing from a distance of 2m, 4m, 6m and 10m (measured with a yardstick or measuring tape) and check whether the distances on the lens‘ focus ring show the correct distances when you think that you have correctly focused. Hope this helps Jörg

Some of Pro8mm‘s scanning packages only include a single option for color timing. E.g. the „basic scan“ only has „best light“ (=color graded) as option. Also when using their website, „best light“ seems to be the default for all other scanning options. Hence I fear that you have accidentally selected some graded output…

http://www.inframeonline.com/equipment/DuplicationCenter.htm

There was also the „24fps only“ model „Jensen Crystal Controlled Multisync Model 504“ by the Danish company „Georg Jensen“ for the Arri 16s. And it looks like a company called „G.Thoma“ also produced such crystal sync motors.

The version „without a“ was still in production in 2004. In 2005, the version „with a“ got introduced: https://web.archive.org/web/20050214185847/http://tobincinemasystems.com/page5.html

A description of the „22 without a“ on TCS‘ webpage in September 2000: https://web.archive.org/web/20000919004615/http://www.tobincinemasystems.com/page7.html Back then, it was the only available option from TCS for your Arri. Price was 995US$ in 2000.

Looks like Du All has sold its last new crystal sync’ed motor for your Arri: http://www.duallcamera.com/store/CrystalMotors.shtml In June 2016, the TCS TXM-22a and the TCS TXM-22 have been listed as „new“ for 995 US$ (thanks to archive.org for storing this information!) It looks like the 22a was only for forward, while the „22 without a“ could also run the camera in reverse.

There are also some adapters on eBay, e.g.: https://www.ebay.de/itm/125792271912 https://www.ebay.de/itm/125793778903 … But I don’t know whether they fit your use case or not.

Not in Europe, but at least in the UK: http://www.lesbosher.co.uk/Eclair ACL Page.html

What about „pull processing“ the 250D?

Hi! Kodak is still selling gelatine filters (including ND): https://www.kodak.com/en/motion/page/wratten-2-filters Maybe there’s a company close to you that is selling them? But I don’t know why you’ll have to tape a „ND filter for still cameras“ to the Bolex?! There should be step up rings for every filter thread. And (designed for digital cameras without filter thread) there are magnetic systems and special filter holders that get screwed into the camera’s tripod socket… https://www.ebay.de/itm/285232015206?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338722076&customid=&toolid=10050 https://www.ebay.de/itm/354683697198?hash=item5294cbb82e:g:5YQAAOSwE1dkIbmm&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8CQk7I7aLW3eF44TfGkx8TSaANZYnToPiy9XYweQhGG7riOgJlpnvWcmreZsulMQ5fxnyvZNIR%2Fujrb52Iuz5dqRUUThLKv16lBao7ekDJwxKqjTMJCu66CVuM4VdgS7w2Y8qZEYCkgDW8b9peBEnIXMKcWE%2BIHmzYQhaAWOP5brllyvSSpl%2FxpULjtfi4bnGln9sqeMYBzZtJWgZaVYGD%2Bzpxl1fyDnQIJ6LPe9AYONCEi7T3LvEO8xH7znbGXUKA3K8DqCFg7ulFLFYIKzHT7xmKvg1mrlZg44yqFpce4LJuIkOeOxTx3IiiDjH1Yoaw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMxOXI9e5h

Hi! According to the manual, Beaulieu didn’t repeat the design flaw of the 4008. (On the 4008, switching to „manuel“ disables both the automatic exposure and the electric zoom as it „turns off“ everything that is located in the lens.) So on the 6008S, it looks like turning the exposure to „man“ doesn’t have an impact on the zoom. (BTW: On both the 4008 and 6008S, you can always manually zoom.) But it would be great if anyone could confirm this who doesn’t only have the manual, but also the real camera. ?

Hi! You have got three options: a) double the width b) halve the height c) leave the resolution as is and only alter the pixels‘ aspect ratio: (Okay, you could also do a combination of a) and b), and e.g. end up with 4096x1525.)