Danish Puthan Valiyandi

Great photos! Really like them. Actually, to take this photo I tried to approach as it was a movie shot. Gelled flashes through windows and a flash built in the torch bouncing off a white card for fill. The flare was made through post of course ... I really like to include lamps and lighting in a scence. There's a making of video on the flickr site btw.

Konica Minolta D7D with lenses ranging from 17mm to 200mm ...thinking about upgrading to an a900 :blink:

As Kristian said- and maybe this site is helpful for you: http://www.panavision.co.nz/main/kbase/ref...lenseqvform.asp

Everything about a strong back and shoulders. Workout on a rowing machine is a good start. The earlier you begin the better it is. greets, -Dan

Michael, look here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_speed to get a list of the most common film speeds. Each step equals a 1/3 stop. Just learn the common steps as Laurent says and forget about calculating on set :-) Greets, Dan

wrong, it´s in the area of 30000 euro , but even without vf I think

Actually this company "Cargolifter" went down, now they turned the building site into a tropical park with pools, restaurants etc., it´s very near to my place ( Berlin, Germany ) - unsure if that´s the future - ok, maybe the amusement park, but unfortunately there won´t be any airships in the next time...

I just bought a new lightmeter; the Sekonic l558 Cine. This version is intended to replace the top of the line Zoomaster l608, which is now discontinued. One of the main differences to the old 608 model is that you can't zoom the spot meter's viewfinder... I guess that something you can live without :-) Before I worked with it- I compared the metering results with an old Spetra meter which I used a few times. The result was just a 3/10 stop difference. I recently shot a music video on 16mm, using ND filters and Spotmetering, since it has presets for common filters workflow was very fast and easy- metering was very accurate. All in all I can say that the Sekonic is an awesome tool. Although at the first time, handling appears a bit confusing - you'll learn it very quickly; it's one of the best investements I did- for a reasonable price... it's lower than the L608. Greets, Dan

If you use a collapsible core- then why will you need a white core again? According to Arri SR2 and 3 cameras, they wind the film pretty tight. When I unload them, I just use the old duct tape that was used before when the film was unexposed to fix the film at the end, put it back to the black cover, back to the tin. I never experienced film getting unwinded from itself this way. Greets, Dan

Thanks David, I appreciate your answer. That's everything I wanted to know :) Greetings, Dan

I'll be shooting a Musicvideo- using the 16mm Arri SR-3. Giving easily the possibility to change the Shutterangle- the director wants me to shoot with an 45° angle. Anyway- being honest I never shot 45° before :) Using the rule- Hmi lamps at 50Hz- it wouldn't be a problem shooting with 45° and 25 fps(?) Anyway.. I'll be also using Kinoflos... will that be a problem? Thanks in advance for your answers :rolleyes: Greetings, Dan