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Charles Cadkin

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • My Gear
    Aaton XTR

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  1. I would prefer not to. I imagine it would be too costly.
  2. Still for sale. Hoping to sell for $200 + shipping.
  3. Selling the following sealed film, stored in a cool closet. Expiration dates unknown. (4) 100' daylight spools of Kodak EXR 200T 7293 (2) 100' daylight spools of Kodak Plus-X Negative Film 7231 (1) 100' daylight spool of Kodak Ektachrome High Speed Daylight Film 7251 Photos Please make offers. Willing to split the film up but would prefer to sell everything to one person.
  4. Never mind, I found my answer. For those who are curious, I believe the shutter speed is 1/4 second.
  5. I'm beginning to work on a project shooting individual frames with my XTR Plus using the inching button on the handle and I'm wondering what the shutter speed is every time you inch the film? At first I assumed that it may be 1/48 but now I'm wondering if it is slower than that because the camera takes time to get up to speed. Is there any information on what the shutter might be or if it is consistent every time you inch the film?
  6. Thanks for the help, Tyler. That was exactly the problem. I honestly have no idea how it happened because I never took the eye piece off and the pin isn't broken, but it must have slipped into a different position at some point. Anyway, if it happens again I'll know what to do.
  7. I have a potentially stupid question with hopefully an easy answer that I'm just overlooking. I haven't used my XTR in a few months and when I last used it, it was completely fine. However, I recently took it out to shoot and looked through the viewfinder to see that the ground glass with all frame lines as well as the image that I was seeing were flipped 90 degrees. I've linked to some images to show what it looks like to look through the viewfinder. It doesn't look like anything has broken or that the ground glass has slipped. I tried adjusting the viewing horizon, which only moves the image a few degrees. I'm hoping I'm just overlooking some basic feature of the camera that allows you to flip the orientation of the image. https://imgur.com/a/arwUMR6
  8. Lens Model: Rokinon Cine 85mm T1.5 (Canon EF mount) Lens Body Condition: The 85mm has some really slight tension to the focus ring in the middle range that prevents it from smoothly turning from around 2 feet to 6 feet. Otherwise, focus rings and aperture rings turn extremely smoothly. Lens Glass Condition: Great, no problems. Sale Includes: Lenses and lens hood Price: 85mm - $260 + PP fees & shipping (or best offer) Payments Accepted: PayPal Possible Trades: None Shipping Methods Available (Ships From): USPS Shipping Available To: Continental US Item location: Central NY Best Contact Method: Private Message Reason for selling: Switched to all autofocus L lenses, haven't used this lens in over a year. Photos: https://imgur.com/a/gn9XyPG
  9. Looking for a used Canon C100 with the dual pixel af update. US based.
  10. Person to Person, which comes out in about a week and stars Michael Cera and Abbi Jacobson, was shot on Super 16 - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt5247026/
  11. Any idea where to get 400' lengths of 3378 or similar hi con film? Kodak sells in a minimum of 2000' and I no longer have the resources to spool down that much film.
  12. Perfect, that's just what I was looking for. Thank you!
  13. Based on my limited experience and self-taught knowledge, I've always used normal black and white still photography chemicals (d76 developer, kodak fixer, water for a stop bath). The method that I've always done is to go into a darkroom and pull the film out of the Super 8 cartridge (or I think you can open it or break it open to avoid scratching the film, but I've never done this as you're going to scratch it anyway) and then you take your big jumbled mess of film that you've pulled out and put it into your developing tank. You then develop the film fairly normally, like you would black and white 35mm stills. Develop, stop, fix. The approximate times I've used are: Develop: 7ish minutes Stop: 3 minutes Fix: 8 minutes Experiment with times for yourself. The other option, if your developing tank isn't very big, is to fill buckets or similar containers with your chemicals and develop the film in a darkroom throughout the whole process, constantly agitating the film, rather than doing it in the tank. Your film may be more evenly coated with chemicals this way and you can tell if it is sticking together. Either way, however, you are going to get extremely inconsistent results as you are dealing with a large amount of film and attempting to develop it all at once. It will end up looking very spotty. Depending on your project, it can be an interesting look but it also may not be what you want at all. Your other option, which I have never tried, but have heard about is to use a rewind tank like the Morse G3 (more info here http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=9878 ). Basically you load a maximum of 100' of 35mm I believe and put the chemicals in the tank and wind the film from one side to the other, in a specific amount of time, to pass the film through the chemicals and develop it evenly. Based on what I've read it is pretty time consuming and you end up doing a lot of physical work without taking a break if you're doing a lot of film, but you will get a much more consistent result. You can buy a tank on eBay, but they're generally pretty expensive. I've been watching some myself and often a cheap one will pop up. There really aren't any cheap solutions to developing motion picture film and getting any sort of professional look. The methods I've described above are fun to mess around with and may be right for a project you're working on though. If you've been doing darkroom work for so long, this may be something you'll like getting into. It should be stated that this method is only for b&w, obviously. Color is a bit different. Edit: I should also mention that this method is for developing tri-x reversal as a negative.
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