Michael Carter

The view tube image is stuck in the vertical position. With the eyepiece tube on the left and the lens on the right, as if it would be attached to an Auricon camera, Which way do I turn the grooved ring on the eye tube? Normally, it would be counter-clockwise. I have a 5/64 Allen wrench in a slot on the barrel through the set screw hole on the smooth ring further towards the axle, if that makes any sense. I remember something about these being threaded backwards? Anyway, I got it stuck and now I cannot loosen it to put it back into the horizontal position. Please help.

I have to bleach Foma first then develop to get a negative. And HC-110 is used 1:100 for an hour to reverse 7266. Higher dilutions lowers contrast. I have used RO9 one shot 1:400 with 3378

65 degrees F might work. It looks like you did everything correctly. I use Dichromate bleach.

Come on over to Home movie film lab on FB groups/1833878160190581/

Well, X rays won't hurt it.

Where can I have my Cine Kodak Special camera serviced?

7363 doesn't react to the red light but 3378 did so 7363 gets tried first

I'm gonna have a go at this. Some developers are low contrast that I will try with 3378 and 7363

Would this film be used to make internegatives from Tri-X reversal? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/871469-REG/kodak_8568818_fine_grain_duplicating_panchromatic.html

Here is a video about how I photographed them.

1986

While photographing some frames on this film developed by CineLab, I found very faint, very tiny, thin, symbols and some words after KODAK, none of which I had ever seen. I'll post an image after I get a more clear photograph. But I found the symbols.

Thanks Mark, This film was returned from the lab. My least exposed shots are the only ones to show decently. Good thing I bracketed and then experimented even more in low to no-light. The interior at f1.5 was overexposed. It must be 320 Asa. Twilight out of doors of lamps by a garage door show all the details in the dark edges, then later, and even darker, another exposure even looks good. The film edges are a light gray as is the leader, much lighter than I process, I project my films, This looks like it is made to be scanned, not projected. I can not even come close to duplicating what they did. Should have been very hot and very fast. My hot and fast resulted in totally clear film. 98 F and 30 seconds. 88 and 30 gave faint images. I got it to work though at other ways. No other markings appear on the film other than the numbers every 20 frames. 400 and 800 ASA are now in my tool kit with this film. I shot bright sun at f22 and 64 fps today to process after I buy more chemicals.

The photo of the frames shows all there is to see on the edges. J2 over 57 then the frame numbers. I will look some more. Yea, I just processed it a different way again today and had to pull the processing as it was shot at 6 Asa and too overexposed. Thank you for commenting. Michael Carter

I like that one: Go To Everything. I need to get out more.

I thought it would say on the can. Thank you, those dates help.

How old is this film? 1957?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Recordak-DVR-Prostar-Darkroom-Film-Processor-16mm-and-35mm-Microfiche-As-Is/192836815474?hash=item2ce5f84a72:g:VLMAAOSwdeFcgrBA

David Bendiksen, There is or was yesterday a microfilm 16mm processor for sale on the Bay. The one I have would not be ideal for students. They cannot easily work in total darkness as required. Rather, I would teach them to develop 8mm/16/ films in a small Jobo tank with 110 reels. That is the way I did most all my tests.

I have no idea where to buy industrial film processors. Hollywood? I do not have room for one. I knew a guy who had a Craimer, sp? , I saw one in a camera shop outside McKeesport and it was really big. It wouldn't fit into my cellar. This processor works in the dark by lifting it from one tub to another. A 400 foot industrial model is optimal including the dryer.

I never actually used it. The thing works fine as it is.

A 100 foot spiral tank like the Lomo Pro is great, if available. The metal spiral for 100 to 200 feet would be an alternative. Stacking spirals would be nice, too. That would be a good start. 100 feet of black and white 8/16/35mm film. A 400 foot machine of some sort would be next to try. Then, rem-jet removal and color processing. One thing at a time.

My last effort used PF-2 and the fixer was cold because of winter. It took more than half the 8 minuets fixing time to warm it up. So, there is some yellow color remaining. This was printed using a Bolex H16T camera with bi-packed film from a 7222 negative.

some cine Kodak special mags ARE single perf, some are double perf

Yes. I limit filming to black and white. Developing at home is easy to do that way. Printing is also done and that gets complicated.