Piotr Wołoszyk

I had to read it twice, to be sure I got it right. WOW!

What do you mean "big enough flash card"? I'd rather use laptop or something to control the process, trigger the shutter and download files directly from camera.

Why don't you just take measurement FROM camera TO the object/actor? I use laser disto every (almost) day, and never thought pointing it towards camera, regardless it is safe or not 🙂

Travelling and landscape footage may be very useful. Spanning 35 years it may show places that do not exist or went under significant changes. Take it for a documentary.

Sure i've tried. I'm not so dumb not to. No answer to e-mails given on Kodak's website. I had to by in UK recently.

I don't get what's Kodak's plan, but it looks like they don't sell in Europe anymore.

Yet another reason to have updated offer online, me thinks :}

Ordering via phone? AD 2022? Looks like old good '80, but today it's kinda extravaganza going off-line and underground. I disagree price is the decider - it's about availability. I've tried to reach Kodak Polska using contacts given on Kodak's official site - no response, they seem to be down. Last week I received my films from UK (which is no longer in Europe, as you know), despite customs, intl shipment and taxes still worth bothering. I'd buy in LA but, have mercy, not by phone!

Website or e-mail? can't google out a thing about them :(

You mean use it as cine film or just photography? Most of docu films come without perforation, speed range is 6-25 and have horrible contrast - it is designed to be like that to produce sheer black-and-white image. Have to mention spools (core) differ from that of arri type (so you need to respool it) and few of them are panchromatic. If you are OK with all above - go for it. I do lot of doku negatives of many types for photography, but have to say it's a challenge.

Merry Christmas to everyone in great cine family 🙂 Regardless where you live and what you do - let this winter time be the warmest in the year, stay safe and sound. All the best.

blah blah blah one of this endless discussions that will always get you nowhere. I shoot jpeg when I'm working and raw when I'm taking pictures 🙂 Now for something completely different : do you scan your films to jpeg or is it worth doing raw/nef or tiff?

Code looks like that :

On the very bottom of my drawer I have found a roll of film. No sticker on cassette, no signs or trademark. The only marking is a code, pin-cut on a leader. It says C 50 1289. I know '40 and '50 Eastman Kodak nitro-base films had code starting with 12, but I can't find any info on 1289. Can anyone help?