Fabian Schreyer

Well, if you still need a Bolex, there is one for sale right now:

I did about the same for my IIA. Had to cut the power cable just before the original plug, because it was shorting there... But I got away with it quite well by using shrink wrap. For now it just works fine! Still, should I keep using that motor, I will probably install a more modern plug at some point. These original plugs with their cables in them are just way to brittle...

That is quite interesting to me! I am trying to get an Arriflex IIA up and running at the moment, but I still have visible speed variations in the tachometer. I wonder if this might result in the same issues.

What an amazing and rare piece of kit. I envy the buyer a lot! 😀

While I have no idea about the Lasergraphics machine, I think it would be interesting to just run that print on a well maintained projector with a calibrated optical soundhead (that has a flywheel) and record the output. I have worked a lot with projectors in the past and I can tell that the effects observed here can easily occur if a bearing is damaged or something else is not right in the soundhead. Some soundheads are more problematic than others. Regarding the Lasergraphics soundhead: Did anyone ever scan a 3150 Hz measurement film to measure the amount of flutter? If not, that would be quite interesting!

Not that it is relevant, but I have never heard the term MOS together with a projector.

To give a quick update here: I also bought some of the eyecups from Israel. They fit perfectly on newer mounts like the one for my Arriflex 16St, which seem to have an inner diameter of about 28mm. So it will probably just fit fine on a 2C viewfinder as well. For my IIA the inner diameter is about 25mm. The outer diameter is the same though on both the original eyecup that came with the camera as well as the one delivered from Israel. So the only problem is that you need a wider inner metal shim to secure the eyecup. For now I just improvised such a ring by cutting up an old credit card. A few words about quality: They feel super flexible and were probably made recently. The overall impression that I have is very good. But of course you would have to see how they age. (Only downside so far: I had to pay import duties upfront via eBay, but the seller did not attach any of the tax documents/numbers (IOSS number) provided by eBay on the envelope, so I was forced to pay that twice...) Here is a picture of the 3 different eyecups: On top you see the IIA cup with its shim next to it. In the middle is the new eyecup that I was delivered. And on the bottom you see my old 16St eyecup (with its shim as well).

I'm afraid cannot help too much here. These are quite likely either Fisher or LEMO connectors. If you manage to find the exact model number of your connector, you will probably be able to just order replacement parts at any distributor that works with these manufacturers.

I second that. This website looks a lot like a fake shop to me! Unless someone knows for sure, who is behind it, I would stay away.

Interesting read, thanks! That does answer my questions, I just wonder why I did not find that article myself...😅 I was also a bit surprised of the low resolution of some of the shots. But maybe that was part of the look he was aiming for?

Well, I have to admit, I was not that much interested in what camera exactly was used, but if it was shot on film. There are a few shots in there that make me think it was, but I might be wrong, of course.

This was shot by Marcell Rév. Does anyone know what camera was used?

Interesting! What model is this? I suspect that maybe ARRI used that cover for the IIA and switched over to the grease label starting with the IIB.

You are probably running the motor backwards. When you do so, the tachometer will stay at 0 fps.

Considering that Kodaks warranty lasts for about 27 cartridges, I highly doubt that that number is achievable. But I would expect that it just resets at that point.