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Mark Dunn

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Everything posted by Mark Dunn

  1. No, it hasn't changed, it just completes a circuit, like closing a switch. There's no impulse.
  2. Processing 100' at a time would be a tall order.
  3. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Time-lapse-intervalometer-remote-timer-shutter-for-Canon-DSLR-650D-600D-Camera-/370797649931?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item565543200b assuming that is a 2.5mm. jack. I don't know which country you are in but I'm sure you could find one locally.
  4. The remote input looks like a plain 2-pole jack plug, probably 2.5mm but possibly 3.5mm so that's what you need on your unit. On my DSLR the remote input requires a simple push-to- make switch to operate. I assume others are the same. This for example http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/?_nkw=remote%20release%202.5%20jack&clk_rvr_id=531313699643&mfe=search would work as a remote release.
  5. Very peculiar. You can probably make the loops a bit smaller, particularly at the bottom, so there's no chance of the film rubbing on the housing. I would want to be sure that any splices were particularly carefully made and I would be watching closely whilst the film was running. This was obviously an attempt to make a cheap mechanism. In the long term you might want to look out for something more conventional. You don't need me to tell you that your reversal camera originals are very precious and that you can't be too careful with them.
  6. I haven't misunderstood. Try what I suggested with some scrap film.
  7. It does look very odd. Every projector I have seen has the sprocket in line with the gate. The film must be intended to enter and leave the gate at an angle. Thread over the top of the sprocket, as you have it already, through the gate, under the bottom of the sprocket as you have it already, then onto the takeup spool. Be sure to form a loop above and below the gate. Try a bit of scrap film first.
  8. A 16SR should come in well under that.
  9. David Mullen will explain it better, but you get a very underexposed blue record, so one assumes a very grainy sky.
  10. FYI, that lens doesn't fit on that camera. It's a separate item.
  11. Kodak MP stock is all acetate. Fuji Single-8 was well-known for being on the thinner polyester- you couldn't cement-splice it. From what I can find out, 35mm. Velvia 50, from which one assumes they are cutting the S-8, is quoted as being 127µm whereas Kodak's usual 3.6 mil acetate equates to about 91µm, so you appear to be right about that. 120 film is coated on a thinner stock, 98µm. Perhaps the labs who are re-cutting it should have specified that base instead. (From the Velvia 50 and Kodak Plus-X datasheets. Sheet film is on a much thicker base). Postscript: Looking at the data sheets for Ektachrome 100, it was on 5mil/130µm (35mm) and 3.9mil/100µm (120). So maybe Kodak picked the wrong base for Super-8 E100 as well- didn't it sometimes stick?
  12. If the stock was old and poorly stored before you got it, that could account for it. Labs run process control strips with every run so they would know if the chemistry was off. It's unlikely they would risk using tired chemistry.
  13. Incidentally that one looks a bit rusty. Ask a lot of questions about its condition; they were made from 1965-75 so it's at least 38 years old, after all.
  14. Yes, that is a single-system module but it's removeable. There are various manuals about which tell you how to do it. It recorded onto film with a magnetic stripe but that hasn't been made for years.
  15. Do you mean long exposure or timelapse? You've just been given two conflicting answers.
  16. There seems to be dried glue on that white tab in the centre of pic 1. I wonder if the mirror should be thereabouts.
  17. That is not a piece of professional equipment. It's the HD equivalent of an Instamatic.
  18. Actually unprocessed film is usually EI- it only comes EO for exposure and the natural curl is EI, so the wind would be very loose EO. It is wound EO after processing. It doesn't matter if it's heads out, the machine doesn't use a sprocket.
  19. The Minima load is on a core though, not a daylight spool. The 200 and 400' spool loads may still be listed for some stocks as special-order minimum quantity items in long-perf for high-speed cameras, but if you're not printing that's no problem at 24fps. Bear in mind if you wind down single-perf you'll have to do it twice to get the perfs back on the correct side of the film.
  20. IIRC lengths are stapled together for processing. There is quite a lot of 'pull' in the machine and tape splices aren't meant to withstand that. I can't see that a lab would need to charge by the camera load- they make up multiple loads to process as a batch so there's no extra work really, just a few more staples.
  21. A mains transformer might be the only sure way of getting full speed. I recall that the Locam 16mm. medium-speed would only ever reach 400fps instead of the rated 500 on battery.
  22. A 20' loop running for four hours projects each frame for about 5 seconds by my reckoning. If that caused fading I woudn't have any slides left. Do try to make a proper double-sided tape splice, though. Sellotape isn't up to it and you may have to remake the splice anyway. Bulb life is probably 100 hours or so so definitely a spare. Unless you have asbestos fingers wait for it to cool down.
  23. That's a professional job. One mistake and you've lost the cut. 16mm. usually has to be cut into two rolls interspersed with black leader and cement spliced to avoid partial frames because the frameline is too thin to contain the splice. Look up A/B roll cutting.
  24. I'm not sure I'd trust one of these with anything heavier than a K3 (mine has one). You may be able to get a plate with a 3/8 fitting made up for not too much money.
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