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  1. Arriflex 435 ES - 4-perf, IVS video assist PAL, FEM (functionality expansion module), TimeCode module, Arriglow module - Base plate BP-8 + dovetail plate + 19mm rods long, short 3x 400ft magazine + case 1x 400ft magazine (35-III model) 3x 200ft magazine + case finder extension FE-3 finder extension FE-5 ground glass + arriglow: - super35 2,35 - super35 1,85 - super35 silent gate 1,33 - normal35 2,35 - normal35 1,85 - normal35 1,33 P+S Technik uRC - remote control for speed ramps Video-top 100% + SCA-2 (for steadicam low-mount) EasyLOOK video-assist system - digital system for recording and playback - generates Quicktime files on HDD - wireless option Transvideo TITAN transmitter + receiver set for analog SD wireless video Transvideo Rainbow II 6,5” monitor - bright PAL monitor - anamorphic desqueze support PHOTOS: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xaJqzid9JwCFyyxY8 Camera is located in Bratislava, Slovak Republic, EU Shipping within European Union will cost €550 Shipping outside EU is not possible at the moment. In case of personal pickup, I can supply old Kodak film stock (10 rolls) for free. Payment via PayPal, incl. buyer´s protection.
  2. Hi all, Can't remember from where, but I've heard of the ability to shoot on print stock just as one would on regular motion picture stock, with the idea of having a very punchy and contrasty look. Does anyone have experience with this? Looking at the Kodak catalog, it seems print stock primarily comes in 2,000' rolls, which would make the process of downspooling a bit tedious...
  3. Hi, everyone! Gonna be shooting a film with a look rooted in Jazz photography from the likes of William Claxton, Dennis Stock and others known for the marvelous images they created around that beautiful genre. Obviously, the film's aesthetic's going to borrow a hell of a lot from these great photographers... However, what I'm most interested in is the B&W film stocks that were around the time in which the most iconic artists were photographed: the 1950s. So, on the one hand, what I'm wondering is if there's anyone in the room with an idea about the the rolls of B&W film available at that time and their characteristics. But on the other hand, I'd like to know if anyone knows where can I find information on the way these photograpers worked, which is to say the lenses and equipment they used, the way they developed their film and created they final shot in the darkroom, etc. Also welcome is information on the film stocks used to shoot movies or documentaries around the 50s. My guess is even at that time Double-X was the real deal, but... You know. A guess is a guess.
  4. Hi All! As a student, each projects means a way to stretch myself further. If I'm not trying something new (or a little bit scared) on a project then I feel like I'm not taking steps forward. Lately I've been doing pretty in-depth floor plans and 2D pre-vis, and it has been working wonders for every project. However, I'm still working to get exactly what I want in my head to paper, so that on set my images are not a surprise. Is there a way I can tell how many foot-candles a certain light will output? I'm wanting to essentially know exactly how powerful a light I'll need to expose to a pre-determined f-stop. I'm familiarizing myself with inverse square law, so all I'd need is an output at any one distance and could work from there. Is this just a knowledge gained from experience? Or is there a practical way to determine output? Thanks, Jake Mitchell
  5. Hi, might be a silly question, but is it possible to buy a brand new film camera? like arri sr3 or arricam. Do they even make new ones? Another question. Do you know any reliable store\dealer who sells arri film cameras (sr3 or arricam)? Preferably in Europe. Thank you.
  6. For details email sales@broadcastsolutions.com SR3 Advanced Camera SN 4142, finder, right on/off handgrip, TV/1.78 ground glass, Gold Mount Battery Bracket (NEW) Arri SR3 IVS video assist (SD) SN 5064, power cable Arri SR3 FE-4 extension viewfinder SN 1294 SR3 400' time-code mag SN 3543, cover SR3 400' time-code mag SN 3549, cover SR3 400' time-code mag SN 3645, cover Heated Arri 3-position eye piece w/2 cables SR-3 shoulder pad 2x SR3 Black Battery Cables ARRI SR3 LW15mm rods ARRI BP6 19mm Baseplate ARRI Dovetail 24v on-board battery # 1 SN 4329 24v on-board battery # 2 SN 3711 24v on-board battery # 3 SN 4094 ARRI dual on-board battery charger SN 1070 Assorted SR3 Ground Glasses, various formats The complete system (Body, Mags, IVS) was overhauled in 12/19 but it has not been used since this.
  7. Boris bruno

    Arri 35 IIC

    Hi I just purchased an arri 35mm IIC, I’m new to using it I’m use to using 16mm. It has bncr mount. I need help understanding camera as in gates, what lens is good to use, or how to operate. Also what accessories do I need for it in order to shoot short films and longer features. Also does anyone know where to convert to pl mount.
  8. Hi , Just purchased a beautiful old lady in perfect working condition (still got to do some test next week but motors are running pretty well) : an Aaton Ltr 7 from the first era (1974-1982) 1) It came with two mags that are a bit different one from another. Any tips about the serial numbers and the pressure plate (see photos) is welcome. 2) Is there anyone in europe making this kind of video output/assist : http://www.visualproducts.com/storeProductDetail01.asp?productID=741&Cat=11 3) any comments about the camera electronics, what to take care of etc ... is very much welcome 😋 photos : https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1oh1TppG0EFdFYhjaO6_K7DUtGjWVuGoj
  9. Greetings I am doing some Spring cleaning/clearing and I am parting ways with My Konvaii. (Plural for multiple Konvas cameras?) Anyway, here is is what I have left of my gear: Konvas 2M 35mm camera body - UBER NICE / CLEAN - 1993 - 1:37 gate - viewfinder: GOOD Konvas 2M 35mm camera body - UBER NICE / CLEAN - 1993 - 1:37 gate - viewfinder: GOOD 17AK-EP CRYSAL SYNC MOTOR #1 - GOOD 17AK-EP CRYSAL SYNC MOTOR #2 - METAL CHIPPED - SEE PHOTO # SPARE FUSES FOR SYNC MOTORS Sound barney for Konvas 2M CAMERA BODY, 200FT/60M MAGAZINE, 400FT/120M MAGAZINE and 17AK-EP CRYSAL SYNC MOTOR NON SYNC MOTOR FRENCH FLAG #1 FRENCH FLAG #2 KOMPEDIUM MATTE BOX #1 KOMEPDIUM MATTE BOX #2 UP DOWN CONVERTER BATTERY 3 PIN XLR - NEEDS RE-CELLING - ANAMORPHIC GATE MEDIUM FORMAT LENS ADAPTER M42 LENS ADAPTER CHANGING BAG 600FT OF RE CAN FILM - KEPT IN MY FILM FRIDGE DIRECTOR'S VIEWFINDER 4X 400FT MAGAZINES - 2: MINT 2: USED 60FT MAG - GOOD 2X SCREW ON HANDLE FOR STEADY HAND HELD WORK. $1200 shipping will be in 3 large boxes http://www.ebay.com/itm/282393879383?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/282396634065?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  10. Currently, my 5008 MS is in Sweden with Björn being serviced, re-celled, and having a Angenieux 8-64mm collimated - it's a lens I'm very happy with as I've always found it to be sharper than the Schneider 6-66mm. That said, I've recently been offered a chance to buy a 10mm 1.8 retrofocus Angenieux which I've seen be compared to the Cinegon 10mm! But is it worth buying this and then paying for it to be collimated if I've already got a 8-64mm?
  11. For Sale : Fuji 35 & 16mm 400ft. stock new & sealed. Stored in a temperature controlled environment. Purchased new in 2011 & 2012.
  12. Boris bruno

    Konvas 2m

    Hi I just purchased a konvas 2m, new to this camera. What tripods would fit for camera. Also any stabilizers or glides that will fit.
  13. Hello All, I just completed a new short film shot on 16MM Kodak film via an Arri SR3 HS. I wrote and directed this fun little horror short, and my producing partner, and friend, Evan Samaras did the cinematography (say hi in the comments, Evan). Not only did Evan and I work behind the camera, but also in front of it. The short features only two characters played by us. Due to COVID-19, we wanted to make something small with a minimal, to non-existent, cast and crew. We have submitted the film to some festivals so, for the time being, it is only up privately with a password on our Vimeo page. The link and password are below, for your viewing pleasure. Please let me know your thoughts and critiques. Anything feedback would be greatly appreciated. Password: SRF2020 Thank you all in advance! Keep shooting!
  14. Hello, Selling my Arri 235 package. ARRIFLEX 235 4 perf Camera Body Ground Glass – ANSI 16:9 CGG 235 Universal Viewfinder s/n 2068 235 Eyepiece + eyecup Oppenheimer V mount battery system. 235 Carrying Handle 2x Camera To O/B Battery Cable KC-20 POWER CABLE 235 - Long Extension Eyepiece s/n 2005 Shoulder Pad 235 24v On-Board Battery 235 24v On-Board Battery 235 24v On-Board Battery 24v On-Board Battery Charger SBR-1 Side Bracket And Allen Screw BP8 Bridge Plate Pair of 440mm Rods (19mm) 235 Media IVS PAL 2 X 235 Shoulder Magazine 60/200 1 extra Arrimag 120/400 and 2 x 35-3 2C Mag 60/200 The camera is in perfect condition. Pm for photos and price. All the best Kimon
  15. I'm currently filming a western, shot in the west (Colorado), on film. It's called THE LAST RESORT. Shooting with a Canon 1014XL-S. Filming it on Kodak Tri-X 7266. On location. So far, the film looks amazing! This is a Warehouse 9 Production. I wish I could post a picture, but the image requirements are too small... I don't have a teaser yet, but check out my other film projects. https://vimeo.com/user2463860
  16. Hi I’m looking to purchase a bolex h16 reflex camera or any other reflex 16mm cameras like beaulieu r16 canon scooping, arr16, arr2bc, etc my price range is the highest $600
  17. Hello, The eyepiece on my SR2 used to open and close when I applied pressure, preventing unwanted light passing through when not filming. It has stopped doing that and is just constantly open. Anyone have any advice on how to fix it? I have tried to wiggle it ect Cheers, Ed
  18. Hey everyone, I'm looking for old, expired 400' rolls of 16mm that I can use to practice loading. I'm planning to start shooting 16mm more seriously and don't want to have to worry about potentially wasting brand new film while I familiarize myself with the process. Thanks!
  19. Hello! This is my first post here on the forum and I would like to begin it by thanking everyone who posts on here; this forum has been a huge source of information for me, basically like the film school I couldn't afford, so yeah thanks everyone. I just recently acquired an Arri 2c, one that was advertised by the seller as a high speed model. It has the tachometer that reads up to 80fps, but from doing research on this forum and others, I understand that it is possible to attach that tach to a non high speed model. I've read that the only fool-proof way of determining if the camera is an actual high speed model is by the presence of four extra screws on the film gate that can adjust the pressure of the gate. But having been unable to find another picture of an Arri 2c gate to compare mine too, I'm unsure if the screws on my gate are the high speed ones or just the standard. Here's a pic of the gate on my 2c: Is this the high speed gate? And if so, is the combination of the gate and the 80fps tach enough to pretty much guarantee this is definitely a high speed model and is safe to run at 80fps? Just want to be sure, as I have a high speed motor on the way and would like to be sure of what I'm dealing with. Speaking of the high speed motor, I've read that it needs 32v to run at 80fps. At the risk of sounding silly, how exactly do I acquire 32v of power? I can't seem to find any 32v batteries that can connect to the high speed motor. (The cable for my motor has a 4 pin XLR). Is it a case where I would need to have a battery specially fashioned? Anyone who has any experience running a 2c at high frame rates, your help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  20. Hi, Does anyone knows how to expose this film in the two configuration mentionned ? is it possible to have good result in low light by pushing in development ? (any experience with that ?) I am opened to any tips regarding reversal film treatment as a 1st AC (conservation, use and elese ...) For upcoming projects, i am wondering how it would look like. The first one is a low light / hangar / industrial environment with light coming from a dancefloor with 5 people on it (the aim would be to have color effect / aberration and dynamism like in the 'domino' movie, the dancefloor lights would help accomplishing this nighclub ambiance) The second one is more of a natural ambiance in bright daylight with characters in the frame running on a road and other narratives sequences in the city ... Thanks in advance ! cheers
  21. Hey all. Happy holidays and happy new year. 2020 is now hindsight (thank god). First off, I have a lot of reverence for what you guys do. Many of you on this forum I'm a huge fan of, so it's an honor even in a small way to be writing this. So thanks for listening. Overwhelmed by choice overload. I tend to be a little too good at matching pros with cons and vice versa, so this amount of indecision (and the self-awareness about the indecision) has been difficult. Hence the need to reach out. I'll cut to the chase since I don't want to waste anybody's time. I'm looking to own a camera, thats what this is about. I've got enough $ to own a Komodo production kit with tax. I'll outline choices at the end. The purpose is for me to just feel empowered to get out and make films and work as a director / operator full time versus a owner / op who just rents his camera out to DP's other peoples stuff primarily. I do that for money occasionally the same way I color or edit or crew for people occasionally but my full step forward is towards going from one project to the next on my portfolio. Until then, here's a lot of ridiculous background and way too much information. I'm a filmmaker who prefers self-operating, but mainly for the intimacy and connection with the actors and for how it helps me concentrate, not because I consider myself a proper image-maker at heart, like I'm sure some of you do. My passion is mainly storytelling, not gear, though I'm well capable of digging into deep rabbit holes of technical details if it means getting exactly what I want when I want it. Background: age 25, Burbank-native, editor primarily (that's certainly where most of my superficial skills lie) I'm experienced in that I've made shorts since I was 10 years old. My first feature did get distributed by Gravitas and won a lot of awards - so I'm not totally untalented. But it was exhausting getting there. And in general, I hate the word "content" and have no intention of being a "content creator" at all, ever. Just want to keep telling stories in the way that feels truest to my heart, and make the strongest step forward. Life doesn't make a lot of sense when I'm not making films. And I need to make films right now. What's been hard is not having anything to express myself with. Like many of you, I'm relegated to primarily being at home, needing to channel energy. I've got stuff to shoot, I'm always writing and working with friends on writing films. I told myself I will just rent, that the entirety of hollywood infrastructure is built upon the idea that you don't own your own gear - that its better to just own lenses, which I still do. Logically, I still believe that. Emotionally though, whats been hard is not having that tool to express myself with. I know that theres an argument to be made for todays infrastructure being different from shooting 10 years ago, that being an owner operator now especially as a young person is fairly valuable. I also know its the story, performances, composition, movement, and lighting (in that order) that makes it, not the gear. Furthermore, Steve Yedlin's right. Camera's today are really just data collection tools. Even film cameras are glorified boxes the film goes through. I like being a colorist and relish the freedom it gives me. But its almost a separate part of my brain. The part of me on set thats connected to the actors and the story, that's the part I wanna grow. But still for me, film nearly always looks better. I have been fooled a few times, but only when they shot on anamorphic lenses. Linus Sandgren isn't wrong about the distortion of those being almost necessary in a twisted sort of way. His work, plus Maniac, 10 Cloverfield Lane, and a few others I find truly exceptional. If I'm to collect data, then the data I actually care about (which makes film superior) is the motion cadence of a global shutter, the ability to sandblast highlights and still have it look cool, and the ability to oversaturate or shoot in harshly oversaturated environments. That's the data set I'm looking for in a camera to own. Recently wrapped up a short on the Red Komodo which I made for an AFI application. Super happy with the image and versatility of R3D, which is inspiring in how it almost dares you to challenge it and push it to its limits. I love that you can beat the tar out of it in post and it never bands or splotches or falls apart. We even did a filmout from the R3D files to a 16mm sized portion of the negative at Fotokem, just to see how close Komodo could get to film, since its the first camera with films dynamic range and a global shutter. Astonished by the results - so much so I genuinely think I could film out everything I've ever done and get the best of both worlds (Most of my heroes are people who utilize the best of both, or create an invisible third option by kicking down the door) Still, something about shooting digital with that camera did not feel right to me. Could have been the stress of mounting COVID productions in general being a huge hassle, but also (while I appreciate lightweight cameras) I've never been a fan of feeling like I'm holding a DSLR. (Though BOY is it nice when you wanna shoot illegally. Had the Canon C70 existed before, my feature would have been completed considerably faster.) Tested the Varicam LT for the short first because that's been my favorite look on digital (perfect mixture of RED's cutting edge and Arri's painterly qualities) but weirdly, wasn't as good as Komodo, was heavy, and was bothered by the rolling shutter on that as well. Which was disappointing, because shooting 3200 iso in camera and NDing for exposure compensation is the closest I've seen to film grain yet. Plus Varicam colors are more Eterna than Vision3, and I'm definitely more of an Eterna guy. I've used lots of cameras, but owned only 2. HVX200 was the camera I learned on and in some ways it spoiled me. Got used to global shutter and undercranking & overcranking and timelapse photography and thick viewfinders and shooting to tape and it's been hard finding cameras that feel that level of satisfying. Owned a c100, but was never happy with it. Most of shooting my feature was about pushing that thing to its absolute limit in every conceivable way (to the point it stopped turning on altogether). After that, I owned the S1H for a bit, mainly because of my history with the HVX200 & how much I liked the Varicam. Sold it. Got WAY too into the whole idea of kitting it out to oblivion, trying to turn it into something its not - and became unhappy. Image was lovely but HATED the rolling shutter. Any readout 15ms or greater seems similar to the Haas effect in acoustics, where you don't truly perceive it until its in the 15ms to 30ms range. Though our eyes are way sharper (hehe) than our ears, so its probably more like 7ms or greater (at least for me). I've used lots of cameras, owned only a few. Mainly, the c100 Mark I, and the S1H for about 6 months. Unhappy with both. As badly as I want to like the EVA1, the image is beautiful, its the only camera I've ever used which actually enrages me ergonomically. That horrible plastic body and screen and clickless dial which makes menus impossible to navigate. Blackmagic is a fascinating player in the scene, and has the best menu system ever but I hate how every college kid or person my age uses them. I know you can color them to look however you want but I hate having to give myself so much to do, and I hate their lack of quality control. My choices so far have boiled down to these 3. I'm discounting options which I believe will be useless in 10 years. Komodo seems of all the new cameras to be the one best primed for the test of time, and the Alexas proven her stripes, and film, well, film is film. I want this to be (if at all possible) the last time I purchase a camera, at least for a decade. I also hate how every manufacturer uses the word FUTUREPROOF. 1. Red Komodo. Have the experience with it, love the image, and of course - the global shutter innovation makes it (to me) the most exciting digital camera in the world at any price level. I know people do get hired because of the Red bias, too, which is nice. Unless I get super creative though, it's gonna be forever till they actually get in stock. But: I can afford to get a decent run and gun kit, and after the initial charges, I'd never have to pay again to create, and I'd have the closest approximation to film motion cadence on a digital sensor. With that ND wheel from Kippertie it'll be great. Genuinely, I do feel its the ultimate tool for someone my age in the year 2020, if properly utilized (and yes, utilized in a way that's different from REDs design purpose). To me, it seems like Reds Mini. The Alexa Mini was a drone camera that became an A cam, too. I don't like having to lean down and look at that tiny screen, but part of me also feels this may help my compositions, and force concentration on framing better. I know I do function better with some limitations. All in all, I love the Komodo in spirit, mainly because it appeals to the more "fly by the seat of my pants" part of me, the one that believes in taking risks and stuff. The young punk, lol. 2. Alexa Classic. I don't need the resolution (2K's my favorite) and despite me hating the vanilla-ness of that choice - there is part of me that always thought, wouldn't it be cool to own that camera and really do some more extreme photography? Overexpose, underexpose, get grainy and nasty - i do have a little devil in there somewhere that feels he would enjoy that. Plus, its the standard. Menus are easy. Love the EVF. Much closer on paper to my experience with the HVX200 than the Red Komodo. Theres an appeal in that to me being that its the closest thing in digital to cutting out the bullshit. I've heard DP's articulate how that camera more than any other just allows them to focus on their creativity and their storytelling, and not worry about anything else. I do prefer the Varicam look over the Alexa, and the built in ND's. But the rolling shutter bugs me. And an LT is pretty hard to come by used. So a classic EV seems the most compelling option in the realm of "can't go wrong". But theres self-conciousness about wanting something so "safe" 3. Shoot film. My favorite look, the look I grew up on, is Super 16mm. I dream in 16mm, honestly. Specifically, the format from the 90s forward. Nearly all of my style comes in some way from Super 16mm or super grimy 35mm. Especially in 2020 with the advances in scanning I find the look to immediately be more like the 35mm of the 1970s. It's also the only format I've never seen any successful digital emulation of. Closest was operation avalanche. And that's because they actually filmed out, so it WAS 16mm. I know there's Arri SR's for decent prices, and CP16s, and Eclairs, and despite that essentially being a form of sinking myself into an endless money pit, buying into a dead technology, etc - I've also found more community talking to film people than any other group, and theres a general focus on creativity that seems harder to find in digital (though I know it exists). Only shot on a Bolex and a super 8 camera before so I'd be a huge noob. But I loved doing it. And unquestionably I know it would force me to grow the quickest. I'm attracted to the romance of it, and the idea of proving myself on it doesn't seem scary. What I know I'll miss is getting to do multiple takes with the actors, because I adore that experience of discovering things with them in the process, and not just shooting coverage. (BTW, I loathe coverage. I hate it. ) Nearly everyone I know tells me its a terrible idea to own a film camera and shoot on film. I can't logically disagree, but emotionally I've been torn. One of the best arguments I've ever heard for shooting film ironically came from Michael Cioni, talking about how film still is the only capture medium with a true 1:1 quality ratio (at least when captured correctly.) That idea of pure timelessness does quite a lot for me, but I'm very much not a believer in the sake of nostalgia for the sake of nostalgia. Filming out to a grainier portion of the intermediate stock looks more filmic than any filmout I've ever seen, and still preserves the spontaneity and magic of film, without any of the limitations or sacrifices. Especially if you shoot 35mm stills on set with the same lenses using Vision3 stock, you've got access (roughly) to the filmic color space that would be present on set, too, not just that of the final "patina" or "texture". Grain is grain, its cool but not everything. Color to me is everything. And for the record, while I'm on the subject of film, the only place digital always falls short for me is outdoors. Something about the harshness of the sun and the slightly blown highlights and halation that comes from shooting exteriors on film always feels like my own eyes. In LA too everything is always too sunny, I like how in film, theres almost that flickering red that you get in your eyes when you've looked at the sun too long, I love how film behaves a similar way. To me, so much expressiveness comes from being able to accurately capture the environment. I love how Elswit shot digital at night and film during day. If I could, I'd do that every day for every shoot, until a solution exists that trumps either of them in isolation. But again, too much wishful thinking doesn't do anyone any good. Anyone who made it this far, I'd love to know your unsanitized thoughts. There's no wrong answers, nor is there a perfect choice (as much as I'd like there to me). What I'm looking for is the right set of compromises, Thanks in any case for listening. Hope you're staying safe out there. Soren
  22. I recently got an Aaton LTR 7 serviced and have been practicing loading it and running film through it for a project. It has 2 mags. One of the mags is making a scratching sound and I am not sure what it is. The only difference between the mags is the rubber stoppers on the load in side seem to keep getting ground down everytime I run a roll through the camera on this problematic mag. Is there another reason that the sound could be happening and if not do you know why these are being grounded down? improper loading? The roll maybe has to be completely flat when loading? I'm really not sure and would appreciate any help. Thanks!
  23. I'm looking for SR3 | 416 Fiberscreens. In particular - 1.66 and 2.35 or 2.39 Does anyone have these and looking to sell?
  24. Hey guys! I just finished a 16mm shoot and am on the process of sending the negatives do be processed by CineLab London. They offer tons of scanning solutions and I'm kind of confused with some of them. Would love if you guys could help me with some questions :) 1.They state that all of the scans are deliveres as .dpx "full frame" files - Full Frame is only the image? Or will I see the borders, sprockets and etc? 2. What does it mean to have the negatives "overscanned"? They offer this option only on the Scanity scans - does it means that I'll see the sprockets, borders, etc? 3. What are the image quality difference between Spirit and Scanity scans? Is it significant? Thanks for the attention!
  25. Hey there, I work on 16mm and super 8 film and have a pretty sufficient editing setup in my home studio -- rewinds, splicers, etc. However, I really need to get my hands on a film trim bin (big standing bin on wheels with the muslin bag to catch tails, and rack of pins for organizing clips). I've searched google a million times and can't find any for sale, just posts by filmmakers talking about having one in their studio. I know they have to come from somewhere! I emailed Dwight Cody and he doesn't have any at the moment, though I'll keep checking back. I've been looking for about a year. I'd also love to hear if anybody has made one of their own, and how you did it - I'm just tired of pinning my strips to the wall and would love a more long-term solution (plus, I miss my old school's darkroom). Anybody have experience on this or a tutorial, or a resource to purchase/make one? Thanks so much! E
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