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I know there are many Krasnogorsk haters on this forum but I wanted to share this awesome project by Russian DP Max Ivanov. It's been 2 years in the works and so much effort has been put into this with a ton of custom machined parts and boards. Here are the specs as shared on the Instagram page for the project: - Camera works with 7-12V batteries (it has a 2-pin lemo connector for power input) - Swiss 100 watt BLDC Motor. (BLDC motors have longer service life and were installed on the Aaton A Minima, XTR Prod, Arri 416.) - Motor controlled and stabilized by a microcontroller - Sync is accurate to 0.001fps at 25fps. (between 0.01-0.001 at other framerates) - Framerates: 1-50 fps - Video tap is based on GoPro internals which allows to record the tap feed in-camera. (Max said he will be adding a cable clamp / adapter since it uses the unreliable micro-hdmi connection from the gopro internals) - Optical viewfinder can be used at the same time as the video tap - Wi-Fi control which allows to set framerate and run/stop wirelessly via your phone - Electronic footage counter. (Maintains footage count after being powered off and has a reset button) - Super 16 gate with ground glass adjustment mechanism. FFD can now be easily tuned and will be precisely set on every model. Max will also be selling a set of tools for calibrating the FFD on this camera so you will be able to calibrate it yourself (I can already hear some of you complaining about how nobody should attempt to do this on their own unless they're a trained technician) - Super 16 viewfinder with correct markings - PL Mount Obviously not a camera for every situation, like narrative projects or basically anything with dialogue. However, I think it's perfect for more abstract projects like music videos or fashion films, especially when you need to move fast and do dynamic handheld stuff. I have one preordered and am super excited to test it out once it's ready! (I think the current eta is March/April)
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When I got my K-3 back in 2015, I seem to recall it being able to run for about 30 seconds at 24 fps on a full wind. I've always tried to take very good care of it and can only think of one occasion where I accidentally started to overwind it, which I promptly stopped doing. Still, nowadays I seem to only get about 10 seconds out of it, maybe about 15 if I'm lucky. Does anyone have any advice on how I can get longer takes again? I know 30 seconds is about as much as you can hope for with these cameras, but lately I have felt particularly limited with the camera. -
Hello, I have 3 packages of 16mm cameras to sell. They are supposed to be sold as a sets, but I will also consider offers if someone would like to buy a lens or camera separately. Cameras are located in Warsaw, Poland. SET NR 1: 1. Camera: - Bolex EBM Super16 2. Lenses: (all those lenses were serviced, lubricated and collimated. All covers Super16 format) - Kern Vario Switar POE 16-100mm F/1.9 - Switar 10mm f/1.6 - Switar 16mm f/1.8 - Switar 25mm f/1.4 3. Accessories: - 2x 400ft mags and 1x MM motor for 400ft mag - Battery charger - Power grip + power grip battery (I don't think it needs re-celling, never had a problem with it) - Remote control cable - Battery container - 7 filter frames with filters (ND 0,6, ND 0,9, ND 1,2, 85/ND 0,9, 85B/ND 0,3, 85, 85B) - Set of Kodak wratten gelatine filters and ND gelatine filters - Bolex bayonet to C-mount adapter - Bolex bayonet to Nikon adapter - 4x 200ft spools - 2x100ft spools - Metal case Here are a few shots made with that camera throughout the last three months: Asking price: 4500 euro SET NR 2: 1. Camera: - Bolex SB Regular16 2. Lenses: - Angenieux 12-120mm f/2.2 Cameflex mount - Angenieux 12-120mm f/2.2 Bolex bayonet mount (this one has glasses in perfect condition, but it needs some collimating. I can arrange it in Poland, before shipping) - Angenieux 12-240mm f/3.5 Cameflex mount 3. Accessories: - Bolex MST motor and battery pack - Pistol grip - Bolex RX-Fader - Bolex bayonet to cameflex mount adapter - 2x100ft spools - Metal case Asking price: 2500 euro SET NR 3: 1. Camera: - Krasnogorsk-3 2. Lens: - METEOR-5-1 17-69mm f/1.9 3. Accessories: - Filters - Lightmeter - Pistol grip - Bag Here a few shots made with that Krasnogorsk and 30 years old ORWO stock (I was surprised that anything came out of it): If you will have any questions or you would like me to send you photos of the cameras, please contact me by email: janbujnowski1@gmail.com Thanks!
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Hello, everyone! I recently bought a K3 on ebay and just finished getting my second roll scanned. Unfortunately, a lot of what would have otherwise been some nice footage came out unusable because of a very strange issue. Here are a couple clips that demonstrate the problem: Basically, at the start of a shot, the film will weave in and out of focus (there are always a few frames at the start of a shot that are in perfect focus) but then the film settles in a position where the center of the frame is blurred, while the sides seem to be in focus. I had only noticed this issue in a couple of shots in the past so I wrote it off as a one-off thing, but it was happening a lot with this last roll I shot. From reading this post from 2008 which describes the exact same issue, (only with an Arri 16S) it seems like the pressure plate just isn't holding the film flat enough, and I need to either replace the current pressure plate spring or tighten it. In some other threads, I've also come across people mentioning that they have tightened the pressure plate spring on their K3's, but I'm having a lot of trouble figuring out how to do that. Does anyone here happen to know how I could make that adjustment with my K3? Do I maybe need a new pressure plate in general?
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I am having trouble focusing my K3. I've just got some footage back, almost all of it is, at least very soft, a lot of it is clearly out of focus. This is the first batch I have filmed since the camera was converted to S16. The conversion used a re-centered lens mount. The previous footage filmed was much better (not 100% sharp but acceptable). I have used 3 lenses, all with the same problem, Meteor 16-79, Belomo (Peleng) 8mm, and a Sun Actinon 80-200mm. The image in the viewfinder doesn't seem to come into focus as it should. The zoom lenses are quite poor, especially at the extremes, but do seem better in the middle focal lengths. Could this be an issue with the new lens mounting ring being too thick or thin, causing the focusing plane to have shifted? Any other thoughts / experience? Thanks Glen
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Hello, I would like to hear some advice, tips.. About 16mm film Vision 3 and it's grain. I recently shot a roll of 100 feet of Vision 3 250D and it turned out great for a Krasnogorsk K3 that I bought for $70 on ebay. I noticed grain specially in the shadows even when I was exposing for middle gray or 18% gray and I had enough light. Nothing wrong with grain. I understand is part of the texture of film and I like it. What I don't like is that after color grading the video (2k, ProRes 444) The grain was moving a lot and it was more like RGB grain than the organic look of film grain. Here is the story: I got to the place where I shot this when the sun was setting. I prepared for shooting and by that time the sun was behind a mountain and I didn't have any specular light. But being Vision 3 250D I was still getting good numbers in the meter. (Sekonic 558). ASA: 250 Frame Speed: 24 Shutter Angle: 150 Apertures: f11 at the beginning, f8 15minutes later, f5.6, etc. I mean there was enough light to expose the film properly. The meter was not suggesting apertures like f1.4 or f1, but I still can notice this grainy areas. Is this normal? Was it because of the time of the day or light conditions? What would you do in that situation? Over expose and then pull in processing? Is it a post production problem? Also do you sharp the image when downscaling from 2k to 1080? I know it's supposed to be almost the same but the image was much larger than the 1080 frame. I can live with that, but I would like to learn more and hopefully get even better results when shooting film. It was my first time with 16mm by the way. Thanks you guys for sharing info and advice. You Tube: http://youtu.be/SKxsLj_p1Jk Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/cs9ipoxxervacqp/K3%20Wide.mp4?dl=0 You Tube softens the image to a point where grain is almost imperceptible so I'm including a file that you can download if you wanna take a look closer.
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I've had a lot of fun with this camera, but would like to upgrade to a Bolex after discussion on this forum. Up on ebay at the moment: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273566611007 For examples of footage from this camera see http://www.vimeo.com/16mmlondon (Not all clips are from this camera, but are clearly described if they are) PM me if interested as I will giver preference to people on this forum. Cheers Glen
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I currently have a Krasnogorsk K3 (converted to S16) and a Canon Scoopic 16M. I've used both several times over the last couple of years and have learned a lot with them. I've managed to get some good results, however, although there are things about both that I like, they each have things about them that I dislike. K3 + Rugged, cheap, large choice of M42 lenses available, Super 16, stable speed control, compact, reflex - Wind up, tricky to load, light leaks, Standard Meteor lens 'soft' (i.e slightly out of focus) at widest settings, unstable registration, reliability issues 16M + Easy to load and use, electric, affordable (but not cheap), reliable, good registration, reflex (but dim in low light), good macro, not too bulky, - Fixed lens - soft at widest setting, speed noticeably unstable (probably fault with my camera), dim reflex at higher f stop The common problem with getting sharp images with wide angle views is the biggest problem I have with these. So, I'm still looking for my 'perfect' camera. I'd like a hand held, reflex, electric camera with changeable lenses. Hopefully easy/quick to load. Super 16 preferred, but not essential. I'm also on a limited budget, maximum £1500 I guess. Two possibilities I can think of are: Beaulieu R16 and Bolex EBM (£££?) I nearly got a R16 with an (Angineux?) motorised lens, but I was put off the motorised lens due to reliability and dislike of controlling lenses with motors rather than manually. I don't know much about either of those, would they be better choices or do they have their own issues that cause user's problems? Have I missed other possible options that may be suitable? Thanks for any help you can give.
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Hi everyone, Upon reading my question most of you will probably be like: "...why?", but hear me out. I'm looking for options to mount a recorder/shotgun-mic combo on a Krasnogorsk 3 camera. For my own experimental documentary work I want to use my K3. I've used it a few times now. Hand-processed the film and am mostly satisfied with the results. I'm interested in using non-sync sound with the images. (Playing a lot with the sounddesign in the edit). For this purpose, the images are digitized. I finish most of my projects in digital. I like the K3 for its simplicity and small size. In terms of sound, I'm interested in the things that occur around the image, where the frame ends so to speak. Also - the things heard right before and after a scene. I'll be recording on my own and that's why I need a quick and easy to use setup. Having to put the camera down to handle a recorder-mic combo like a Zoom H6 would be to slow and I think I'd quickly run into situations where I would have no place to put the camera for the time being. Right now, I'm thinking of creating some sort of cage to mount a small recorder-mic unit like the Zoom F1 on top of the camera. Ideally, I'd be able to mount a rosette grip somewhere as well. The K3's is not making it easy on me though. I need to be able to access both sides in order to wind the camera and change the film, and I need to be able to access the back for the viewfinder. So, there it is! If any of you can think of some DIY solutions to this problem please do share! Or if you know of some very modular cages that might be suited, that would be great as well! Thanks! -
Dear Cinematographers, Was intending to shoot film and lens tests with a super 16 Krasnogorsk-3, in preparation for a project done on an Aaton XTR PROD. Now is there any way that I might use the M42 mount lenses for the Krasnogorsk (namely, Zenitar 16/2.8; Pentax Super-Takumar 50/1.4; &c.), later on for the Aaton? Do they have M42 to Aaton adapters? Someone else posed this question awhile ago, but they never received any clear answers. Sincerely Grateful, Kurt Cassidy-Gabhart
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Hey everyone, Lately I've been looking for wide angle m42 lenses to use on my K-3. I'm quite fond of wide angle lenses, so the limited options available for this camera have been a bit frustrating. Even more so though, I've been really frustrated with the minimum focus of 2 meters on the Meteor 5-1, so my objective lately has been to find a decently wide M42 lens with a much closer minimum focus that I can use as my "normal" lens. Naturally, I've come across the two most common options; the Peleng 8mm and the Zenitar 16mm. I've seen good images with both, but I feel like the Peleng's more apparent distortion might be annoying for some shots (even though I'd love to have that field of view). Perhaps I will try to acquire both eventually, but lately I've been leaning towards choosing the Zenitar and just dealing with the fact that it's not much wider. Then I discovered another wide angle M42 lens that doesn't seem to get mentioned much: the Peleng 17mm. Sure, the Meteor goes to 17mm, but the Peleng has a much closer minimum focus. Do any of you have experience with both the Peleng 17mm and the Zenitar? I've seen it suggested that the Peleng looks a bit sharper altogether, but I'm curious to see if any direct comparisons have been done. Thanks! P.S. If anyone knows where I can find an SMC Takumar 15mm for a good price, be sure to let me know... ;)
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Hi community, I have two questions related to poor-man's macro solutions. I am about to purchase a Krasnogorsk K3 and look for ways to shoot in macro with it. One idea was to just put a diopter - these close-up rings - in front of the lens. I know it's a super cheap solution, but that's how I roll. Does anybody have any experiences in that regard? At a later stage I'd buy a macro lens for it. I know it has a Pentax mount, so am I assuming correctly that I can just use any fitting macro lens with that mount then? Thanks for helping me out! Manuel -
Hey Guys, Firstly, just wanted to say hey as this is my first post on here! Right, basically I received my Krasnogorsk K-3 yesterday from an ebay seller. Whilst the description did not note anything regarding my issue, i found as I looked through the viewfinder that there appears to be a fair few marks/hair/dust etc. Now, is this something that will affect my picture at all, or is it something thats purely on the glass of the view finder? ( I can learn to live with it if so) Failing that, how easy is it to take apart and clean said effected area, and which tools would be best for the job? Sorry i couldn't really supply any decent photos as the viewfinder is terribly dim and I can barely see through it, let alone my poor iPhone camera, but you might get the jist! Thanks in advance, Nick
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Hello! I've been lurking around this forum for a while reading up on all kinds of film-related knowledge. Well, a couple of days ago I bought a K-3 for an upcoming project. I've been loading it with dummy-film over and over, preparing for the real deal, on tuesday I'm supposed to shoot a test roll. Well, to the problem. The first thing I noticed was that I heard a sound while handling the camera, a rattling sound as if something really small fell around inside the insides of the camera. Then later the camera jammed, after some thinking I realised that the rattling sound was gone, so whatever was in there was probably stuck in a cog. I rotated one of the cogs in the front using a pen (only taking the lens off), and the camera was rolling again, also the little rattling sound was back, this happened again, but since the fix was so easy I thought I'd wait with disassembling the whole thing. But now it's really stuck, nothing happens when I press the shutter button, the single-frame increment button doesn't work either, I've tried to take off the front part, but the screws are really really tight, so I have to get a better screwdriver. The camera is wound up completely, so I'm guessing it's not a good idea opening up the body unless you really know what's going on. I really like the camera, I haven't felt this exited about something since Christmas as a kid. And now I'm worried sick over the little guy. So I'm looking for any tips on how to approach the problem, any knowledge you got about what could be done. Also, I really need to get to bed, is it bad for the camera to leave it fully wound up for 12 hours?
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Hi all, I just picked up a K-3 for a comparatively inexpensive price. When I got it, I discovered the camera was jammed, and at full wind -- about 4 full turns -- it would only run for about eight seconds. I fixed the jam by raising the height of the drive sprocket -- it looks like someone who didn't know what they were doing took the thing apart to try and work on it, because the threads on one of the screws/posts holding the baffle plate on were stripped. Since I was able to fix the jam so easily, I'm wondering if anyone knows what the problem with the short run time is. If it's a matter of resetting something so the spring is allowed to wind fully, and is a procedure that's reasonably easy to do, I'd consider trying to fix it myself. Otherwise, I'll probably send the camera to DuAll. I figure it's not worth returning, because the combined shipping costs will then be as much as the camera. Does anyone know what might be causing the short wind, and is it possible to fix without the spring lopping my head off? Thanks in advance, Max
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Hey Everyone, Here's a long form commercial I shot on Super 16mm on the Krasnogorsk K3. I'm really happy with the way it turned it out. I showed it to non industry people and someone asked me how I got it to look the way it does and my I told them, "It looks like that because it was shot on film". I feel like it wouldn't be the way it is if I shot it on any other format. I would definitely appreciate any comments or criticisms! Thanks, Mike https://vimeo.com/74120596- 12 replies
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Hi everyone Sorry if this is in the wrong section but I'm real new to forums. I have a krasnogorsk k3 and I understand the onboard light meter is not to be trusted. I have looked at many light meters but they all seam far to advanced for my needs I know at 24 frames per second the shutter speed is 1/60th So I only really need to know the f stop right ? So my question is is there a light meter you can recommend that Perhaps any of you use ? Many thanks in advance, Cheers Dave from the uk (It always rains here)
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I just bought krasnogorsk-3 and while i'm waiting for it to arrive i started to search for some data about it. To be quick here are the two main questions that i can't find any reliable answer to: 1. When did the production of k3 start and when did it end (- i guess with the collaps of ussr)? 2. Are there any movies that were shot with k3 (- i'll have to wait for a week or two until it arrives from Russia to Croatia, so i would like to watch some movie filmed with k3)? Sorry if there's already a post that answers this questions, i went through a lot of posts about k3 but i couldn't find anything.
