Troy Smith Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Hi there, I'm about to rent a 35mm film camera and shoot 10 minutes of film for the first time of my life, I'm a complete newb to film, so pls go easy on me. My question is, I mainly want to shoot outdoors in full sun, what film stock and asa would you recommend for this. One other question, I luv the look of forest gump, does anyone know the scenes where tom hanks is sitting at the bench for alot of the movie, what film stock and speed that would have been? Any input or help very much appreciated. Thankyou Troy Smith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Martin Smith Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Hi there, I'm about to rent a 35mm film camera and shoot 10 minutes of film for the first time of my life, I'm a complete newb to film, so pls go easy on me. My question is, I mainly want to shoot outdoors in full sun, what film stock and asa would you recommend for this. One other question, I luv the look of forest gump, does anyone know the scenes where tom hanks is sitting at the bench for alot of the movie, what film stock and speed that would have been? Any input or help very much appreciated. Thankyou Troy Smith Hey Troy, I've recently seen some stuff shot on 5207/250D, and it looked wonderful, but if your trying to shoot in direct sunlight, I'd go with something a bit slower. Maybe something with a 50ASA. Go on KODAK.com, and check out the specifications on their Daylight film stocks. Sometimes they have videos from other people who used that particular stock. Good luck Troy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Will Montgomery Posted May 12, 2011 Premium Member Share Posted May 12, 2011 Kodak 50D or Fuji 64D would be the obvious choice. 250D if you anticipate shaded shots. Remember that shooting outside takes skilled lighting; just because you have that big ball of fire in the sky it doesn't mean you don't need some serious lighting to take care of unwanted shadows and properly light faces. If you are new to film I would do some tests before you commit to a setup... 35mm cameras are getting very inexpensive to rent now, especially if you negotiate with the rental house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted May 12, 2011 Premium Member Share Posted May 12, 2011 You need ND filters even on the slowest Kodak stock. The old "Sunny 16" rule gets you f/16 in direct sunlight on 50 ASA film at 1/50th of a second. So unless you want to shoot at f/16 on Kodak 50D, I'd get at least an ND.30 and ND.60. If you are going to shoot 250D, then get at least an ND.30, ND.60, and ND.90. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Adrian Sierkowski Posted May 12, 2011 Premium Member Share Posted May 12, 2011 I also recommend, with your NDs, to get ND grads, soft edge, as well as full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Thanks alot David, Will and Adrian. Very much appreciate your help. Regards Troy Smith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Cooper Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 There's also a general consensus to overexpose negative film just a little bit - say half a stop or two thirds of a stop. This is a useful 'safety net' to avoid accidental underexposure. Negative can handle a reasonable amount of overexposure (and can even benefit from it) but underexposure generally gives yucky colours, weak blacks and increased grain. If you're shooting in full sun, you might have issues with contrast, causing deep shadows on some of your subject matter. One example is the brim of a hat casting a shadow on the person's face. In such a scenario, have an assistant holding a white card just out of shot to bounce some light back into the shadow areas. The harsh midday sun is not the most flattering light - hopefully your location might have some large reflective areas that can be taken advantage of for long shots - for example, a white cement floor, or walls of a white building. Late afternoon light is more attractive but if you're shooting in urban areas, you may find that your locations are in the shadows cast by buildings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Cymerman Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 There's also a general consensus to overexpose negative film just a little bit - say half a stop or two thirds of a stop. This is a useful 'safety net' to avoid accidental underexposure. Negative can handle a reasonable amount of overexposure (and can even benefit from it) but underexposure generally gives yucky colours, weak blacks and increased grain. If you're shooting in full sun, you might have issues with contrast, causing deep shadows on some of your subject matter. One example is the brim of a hat casting a shadow on the person's face. In such a scenario, have an assistant holding a white card just out of shot to bounce some light back into the shadow areas. The harsh midday sun is not the most flattering light - hopefully your location might have some large reflective areas that can be taken advantage of for long shots - for example, a white cement floor, or walls of a white building. Late afternoon light is more attractive but if you're shooting in urban areas, you may find that your locations are in the shadows cast by buildings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Cymerman Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 A good rule about shooting outside is: "...Expose for Shadows and print for Highlights..." I agree be ready with lots of ND's check if the camera has behind the lens filter slot... that way your view finder wont be dark Good luck and have fun Henryk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Simon Wyss Posted July 27, 2011 Premium Member Share Posted July 27, 2011 My recommendation is black and white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Mitcheltree Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Processing B&W these days must be very hard to find....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Jensen Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Over exposing 2/3rd's of a stop really isn't a safety net to me. It's more like the true ISO of the film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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