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Super 8mm & 16mm - Service and a few questions.


Benjo Arwas

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Hello,

Nice meeting all of you.

 

I been shooting a bunch of super8mm this past year, and really enjoying the process.

Im just starting out to play with 16mm and will appreciate any answer or help. (no need in-depth or long replies)

 

- I just got a "new" Krasnogorsk K-3 - I was wondering where can I send it to check up/service in Los Angeles Area. Any tricks and tips about that camera?

- Where can I get a proper loop for it?

- Where is the best telecine lab you guys know in the US?

- Super8mm - where can I service my cameras? I got Canon 1014AZ that needing a service as the motor start to get weak.

 

Thank you in advance,

Benjo

 

https://vimeo.com/benjoarwas

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- I just got a "new" Krasnogorsk K-3 - I was wondering where can I send it to check up/service in Los Angeles Area. Any tricks and tips about that camera?

 

Cover the footage counter with tape, it leaks light into the film. Tape around the camera as well for the same reason. Whenever your eye isn't pressed against the rubber eyecup, cover it. I use a black canister of the type used with 35mm still film, cut in half. The Meteor zoom takes some twisting to come out but you need it to come out if you see see dirt in your ground glass. The accumulated dirt, grease and grime can be cleaned with a Q-tip dipped in 91% rubbing alcohol. Don't put the zoom back on when you do that, wait until there's no more moisture in there. Don't trust the internal light meter unless you've checked it with an external light meter first, some of the newer replacement batteries cause a discrepancy in the readings.

 

I'm not sure what you mean with a proper loop, have your loop formers been removed?

 

E-mail Bernie O'Doherty about the Canon, but check if the motor is still weak if you replace the batteries with fresh Energizer batteries first. Dollar store batteries can't handle the camera for long.

 

Lots of labs do "telecine", I like Cinelab and Spectra, but if you want a 4K scan go with Gamma Ray digital. And DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH PRO8MM. Stay away from them at all effort.

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I own a Krasnogorsk K-3 and I get a new own many years ago, but I did not used it since more then ten years, because I use now "better" ones. But it is really a good camera to start with 16mm. I also used two other ones from friends. So I think I have a "bit" experience with Krasnogorsk K-3. Normally they are nearly unbreakable! So why do you want to have a service without testing it before? You have to ask yourself if a service worth the money of the camera? And if someone is familiar with a Krasnogorsk or if you have questions someone of this forum can help you. Maybe you need a bit Gate Lube, but the rest depends on the camera.

They are sometimes tricky to handle. Some of them are not function very well at some speeds, mostly the seadiness of some highspeed rates are not so good. It depends. With my own one everything is perfect for such a camera. And with all the three I used I never had a problem with a light leak of the foot counter. I read that very often, but I never had a light leak, also with 500T stock. But I always taped the cover, but not the foot counter.

One thing is very tricky: the spring mechanism. It could be that when you wind it up, that the shutter and the transport is asynchron. A very well known problem of this camera model. But it is easy to handle it. When you are finished with your wind up, you have to turn the button to left and right till it the shutter is in the right position. You can see this if you have put the optic away. But you also can hear it with some experience.

By the way you can buy also some cheap M42 optics.

And I would always use a changing bag or tent. And do not use the "film cutter" inside for cutting the beginning. This stupid things are also in other cameras like Bolex, but this is always a danger to have a little bit of material inside the camera, which could make scratches in the material.

And as Samuel said: do not trust the internal light meter.

If you want to buy one second hand, I would recommand a Sekonic L-398 A Studio Deluxe II or III. The model II you get sometimes very cheap second hand and you can adjust it.

I also do not understand what you mean with loop.

I hope you have a manuel. That it makes sometimes more easy.

I also would not use the plastic spools you get with the camera, use metal ones.

With the other things the colleagues near your place like Samuel can help you. I can only recommand companies in Germany and Europe.

You have now a nice tool to start 16mm. I also used it in former days as a second unit camera or for stop motion.

Try it and have fun!

 

By the way, for fun I also use sometimes Super8 and I develope the stock my my own.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi there, can you explain why this is? From someone who is thinking about using them.

There are a number of better, cheaper options. They are often seen as the go-to place for 8mm when in reality the quality of the service is inferior. They live on the name, only.

 

What are you thinking of using them for? I can name probably 5 better places for anything they do or sell.

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I'm looking to for good places to send my carts to get processed and scanned, as well as send in my newly acquired Beaulieu 4008 for some service down the road. I'm NY based, but willing to ship.

 

Are your carts negative or reversal?

For Beaulieu servicing, you'll want the best. E-mail bjorn.andersson (at) brevet.nu

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I'm looking to for good places to send my carts to get processed and scanned, as well as send in my newly acquired Beaulieu 4008 for some service down the road. I'm NY based, but willing to ship.

Cinelab.com, they are in MA for process and scanning

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Cinelab.com, they are in MA for process and scanning

 

I'm all for Cinelab, but they process negative and B&W reversal only. If John has color reversal, he'll want to use Dwayne's.

 

But yes, definitely Cinelab. You'll want to send all the carts at once because of the $150 minimum for scanning.

Edited by Samuel Berger
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We develop 8mm ECN and B&W Reversal.

 

Our Minimum charges are as following:

 

1080P HD $50 ($12.50/cart best light)

2K $100 ($25/cart LOG DPX and or ProRes4444)

4K $200 ($50/cart LOG DPX and or ProRes4444)

 

Here is a link to some S8mm ECN I shot in London a few months ago, processed and scanned to 2K on the Xena and graded, ProRes4444 file.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wj5lyukajk8tzvm/Super-8%202K%20Scan%20Sample%20London.mov?dl=0

 

-Rob-

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With K3s you can just buy a new one when its time for service...less money than sending it in for service. :)

 

Bernie at Super 16 Inc can work on those...his Laserbrighten process is particularly good on those to brighten the viewfinder. Don't know anyone in LA that works on hobby cameras but I'm sure there's someone.

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Here is a link to some S8mm ECN I shot in London a few months ago, processed and scanned to 2K on the Xena and graded, ProRes4444 file.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wj5lyukajk8tzvm/Super-8%202K%20Scan%20Sample%20London.mov?dl=0

 

-Rob-

 

Nice footage, Rob, what stock was it?

 

Amazing how London really looks like London when shot on film. :-)

Edited by Samuel Berger
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Amazing how London really looks like London when shot on film. :-)

Even more, it looks like London in about 1978 for some reason. I guess it's home movie memories. Mamma Kodak did take my Kodachrome away.

Edited by Mark Dunn
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Here is a link to some S8mm ECN I shot in London a few months ago, processed and scanned to 2K on the Xena and graded, ProRes4444 file.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wj5lyukajk8tzvm/Super-8%202K%20Scan%20Sample%20London.mov?dl=0

 

-Rob-

 

Great telecine as usual Rob!

 

However, the Kodak "How To Shoot Film" book clearly states not to zoom while filming! It can make the viewer ill. :)

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