Matthias Claflin Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 So I have a Mole-Richardson 1k zip softlight (got it for less than $100 on ebay). However, I accidentally stepped on the switch the other day. So naturally I called up Mole, gave them the exact model of light I had and asked about replacing it. They confidently gave me a part number and a (semi) local store I could get the part at. So I went to the website of the store, bought the part and when it arrived, I was completely confused. Below I attached a picture of the broken rocker switch and the switch that came in the mail (Mole 400-16) which is exactly what Mole told me was the appropriate replacement part. I have little to no electrical knowledge so here I am asking for a bit of advice. How do I wire this correctly? I've searched around the internet and can't find anything on how to wire this piece? Especially since it doesn't match my previous piece. Any advice at all is welcome. I'm at a total loss. 20181029_184904 by Matthias Claflin, on Flickr20181029_184840 by Matthias Claflin, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted October 31, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted October 31, 2018 https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring-switches/how-to-install-an-in-line-cord-switch/view-all/ https://lifehacker.com/how-to-install-an-inline-cord-switch-to-bypass-a-lamp-s-1699388978 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthias Claflin Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) My concern is the exposed wires that I may come into contact with after wiring. I know the switch works, and I know how to connect it to the cable. I don't know how to safely cover the wire that remains exposed. I bring this up because I've read online that I shouldn't put electrical tape directly on exposed wire. How do I go about insulating it or covering it? 20181031_002136 by Matthias Claflin, on Flickr 20181031_002145 by Matthias Claflin, on Flickr Edited October 31, 2018 by Matthias Claflin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Dom Jaeger Posted October 31, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted October 31, 2018 The switch needs a housing. Maybe Mole sells that part along with the switch. You definitely can't use it as pictured, it's a safety hazard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg MacPherson Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 You could always put it in a plastic box at a pinch. See the elctrical suply or hobby store. The wire connections to the switch terminal look really rough. With respect, it looks like you don't know how to make a connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted October 31, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted October 31, 2018 If it's not obvious why what you've done is definitely not OK, stop now and get someone to repair it for you. Anyway - I'd be a bit careful about following most of the instructions you'll find on the internet for this, as they're aimed at wiring up table lamps and the like. A domestic table lamp is likely to be rated at under 100W - or even less, these days, with low-energy lightbulbs in the 10-20W range. Many of the switches I see advertised for that sort of application are only rated at 6 amps and aren't anywhere near adequate for a 1000W light on USA mains, which will draw around ten amps. You need a reasonably heavy-duty inline rocker switch. B&H sell an Arri spare rated to 20A. Edit: Looking closer I'm not sure if that one has screw terminals or if you'd need crimped-on spade connectors, but anyway, something like that. P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthias Claflin Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 I totally understand that what I did in the picture above is not safe enough to use. I really don't know anything about this side of the business as all my previous light experience was with LED panels, CFL or full size fluorescent fixtures (which all draw far less power) so I never learned anymore than I had to. That said I may just buy the arri rocker because it looks closer to what was on before. Thanks for the advice and patience. I'm entirely uneducated on the electric side of filmmaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Dunn Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) I totally understand that what I did in the picture above is not safe enough to use. I really don't know anything about this side of the business as all my previous light experience was with LED panels, CFL or full size fluorescent fixtures (which all draw far less power) so I never learned anymore than I had to. That said I may just buy the arri rocker because it looks closer to what was on before. Thanks for the advice and patience. I'm entirely uneducated on the electric side of filmmaking. As Phil mentioned that you'd need to buy a crimp tool and connectors to use that switch- it has spade terminals. It's perfectly acceptable to use a switch with screw terminals at 10A if it's rated for that and properly fitted. The 99p. Chinese ones look a bit flimsy. I think I'd be happy with one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Feed-Through-In-Line-Cord-Rocker-Switch-10A-125V-SPST-Philmore-30-9851/183078485282?hash=item2aa053fd22:g:D40AAOSwnsRahw6q:rk:3:pf:0&shqty=1#shId as long as there's enough strain relief so the cord can't get pulled loose. If you do go ahead yourself, do some homework on the basics and get some practice. You can teach yourself to do simple electrical jobs- I did, I'm sure Phil did- but the first lesson should be on safety. Edited October 31, 2018 by Mark Dunn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom McGrath Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 I think Mole stopped using the plastic rocker switches some years ago. (it looks a bit like the older-style switch used on the power cords for the Lowel Tota) The switch you received is the current model, and the switch housing is a separate item. For a complete replacement switch, including housing, you might want to go with an Arri or even possibly a Lowel switch if it accepts the cable size. Those might be the cheapest options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Conley Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) I think someone replaced the original switch. here is the parts breakdown of the housing and the switch- which you already have. http://mole.com/media/images/catalogs/pdfs/product/data/parts/2831_parts.pdf Edited October 31, 2018 by Ed Conley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Dunn Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) I think someone replaced the original switch. here is the parts breakdown of the housing and the switch- which you already have. http://mole.com/media/images/catalogs/pdfs/product/data/parts/2831_parts.pdf Then it's a no-brainer. Unless they're seriously expensive, get the proper parts, with strain relief built-in. I can't think what that odd-looking butterfly is for,, though- maybe a rubber sheet to give a little flexibility? Edited October 31, 2018 by Mark Dunn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Conley Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 http://mole.com/media/images/catalogs/pdfs/product/data/parts/2581_parts.pdf Parts for 1k Softlight same switch assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthias Claflin Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 Thank you! I don't know why I had such a hard time finding this. I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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