sines Posted February 14, 2021 Posted February 14, 2021 I thought I could save a few bucks [more like a few hundred or more] by building a DIY dimmer. More like, putting together the following from Amazon to make it "legit". My enclosurehttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TGYW46/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_DDNEFX8Z7KMGPT2VSN8T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My dimmerhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNVQ3HY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MVG8FDS4HHVZTX51A655?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My cable gland connectorhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RJXPVP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_SAB65ZHJEGPQ0PC7R2A1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My plug connectorshttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7704O2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_YF9NYR484T64KGPA9YNM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SF1JAY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_D4X839GFKF2MZA69W7CZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I am one of the few people [suckers, perhaps] that bought a discounted Relamp 2K Daylight studio replacement bulb. Rather, it was the square version, which made fitting it into the Arri 2K tungsten fixture a gigantic pain in the ass. Nevertheless, the first time I wired it up, got magic smoke due to a solder bridge, by removing and resoldering the B500K pot lay flat instead of perpendicular to the board. Next, I burnt out the B500K pot when I rewired it again, back in the enclosure. Third time *was* a charm, and got it to work outside of the enclosure. However, only the last 1/3rd of the turn dims the light. When I closed the lid, I imagine it shorted out, because I blew off one of the bads and the bottom of the PCB was full of soot. What I want is a 120V version of this, but don't see it available on their site:https://cinelight.com/tungsten-light-accessories/light-dimmer-2000-watts Has someone built something long these lines, or have a suggested schematic / link of something similar? Eventually I hope the rest of my fleet will be LED, but for now, I'm focused on this 2K tungsten fixture. Thanks, Todd
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted February 14, 2021 Premium Member Posted February 14, 2021 Fine, but did you ground the case? Is there a fuse on the PCB? Both are essential safety precautions.
Ed Conley Posted February 15, 2021 Posted February 15, 2021 That box is way too small for 2000 watts. A 2k Dimmer will set you back $100.00 bux just for the dimmer. Then you'll need a 4.5"x4.5" box to allow space for the wires and air flow.
Premium Member Joseph Tese Posted February 16, 2021 Premium Member Posted February 16, 2021 I made a 2k dimmer with a Lutron rotary that matches the dimensions Ed said. I wish I remember where I got the enclosure, but i think it was a heatsinked design that seemed to work well. Even with that size, and using 12g wire, it was a chore to cram everything in there.
Matthew Parnell Posted February 21, 2021 Posted February 21, 2021 If I was to pay for an electrician to build this for me I would make sure that there was- -fuse protection to protect the electronics and user in case of a short circuit fault. -the chassis of the dimmer was earthed, again for the safety of the user. -the PCB was secured to the chassis in a more secure manner. -Given how small the enclosure is, I would probably request some vent holes be put into the chassis to help with convection cooling. -an on/off switch was installed- this helps you keep track of levels if you are just saving the lamp for a short period, or turning the lamp on to its set level on a cue.
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted February 21, 2021 Premium Member Posted February 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Matthew Parnell said: -fuse protection to protect the electronics and user in case of a short circuit fault. -the chassis of the dimmer was earthed, again for the safety of the user. I would not ever use this thing for anything, ever, under absolutely any circumstances, without those two requirements being fulfilled. It's not like it's hard to do. 1
sines Posted February 21, 2021 Author Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) Noted — thanks for all of your insight. I usually work with much lower voltage electronics, and didn't think about some of this before I did it. Thankfully, there were no accidents. Getting larger boxes with a grounding post, fuse receptacles, and Lutron 2000W dimmers specifically designed for dimming lights instead of slowing down motors with a PWM circuit. Guessing that circuit wasn't helping me use the full range of the rotary pot either. Edited February 21, 2021 by sines
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted February 21, 2021 Premium Member Posted February 21, 2021 29 minutes ago, sines said: Noted — thanks for all of your insight. I usually work with much lower voltage electronics, and didn't think about some of this before I did it. Thankfully, there were no accidents. Getting larger boxes with a grounding post, fuse receptacles, and Lutron 2000W dimmers specifically designed for dimming lights instead of slowing down motors with a PWM circuit. Guessing that circuit wasn't helping me use the full range of the rotary pot either. If you were to simply put a machine screw through the case, with a star washer to ensure proper contact, then connect your earth wire via a crimp lug, I'd consider that a reasonable way of grounding it. On something like that you might prefer a countersunk screw, but ideally: Fusing is easy, just get a fuse holder you can put through a hole in the side of the case. Ideally get two, and mark one as just for storing a spare fuse. 1
JB Earl Posted March 7, 2021 Posted March 7, 2021 I’m pretty sure that re-lamp draws less than 400 watts AC And the transformer is built-in. so it’s 110 V going in. It will work just like a Quasar and you can use any AC dimmer for it. I’ve used a harbor freight router control to dim them
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