David Auner aac

:lol: Thanks, Topher!

Yep. You're right of course. Wasn't thinking of refraction! dang! ;) Cheers, Dave

Wait a sec. So you a 5.5mm lens or the 5.5mm Aspheron for the 10mm Switar? The latter is meant for 16mm... Cheers, Dave

Only the latter I am afraid! 10/1.6, 16/1.8, 25/1.4 & 1.5, 26/1.1, 50/1.4, 75/1.9. Those are all Switars for 16mm! Cheers, Dave

Hi Arjun, what role will you fullfill on that production? Is it going to be a professional show or are you doing this for yourself? Because I, for one, would never ever even attempt to shoot a feature in a format I am not totally comfortable in. And judging from your question you are not too familiar with film. Cheers, Dave

I was about to post that too. In stills, my grandpa, who was a pro photographer, would always underexpose reversal by 1/3rd of a stop to get more deeply saturated colors. Especially useful for plants and landscapes if you want that look. Reversal, again from a stills perspective, is way easier to scan, yields finer grain in scanning so I'd assume that you could "de-feature" a negative scanner by turning all bells 'n' whistles off and scan nice reversal, no? I have no idea how that works for cine film though. Cheers, Dave

I guess that is because of the fact that fabric doesn't really alter the light. It won't absorb some wavelengths as filter gels would and let the others pass. So the only colored light is the glow you get reflected from the fabric I reckon... Cheers, Dave

Hi guys, I just sent Sergey an email about this lens. Will keep you posted. Cheers, Dave

What would you recommend, filter wise? Cheers, Dave

Hi Steven, could you please post the exact type of the lens? Thanks! Cheers, Dave

Hi Tim, if can't get Vienna, can we at least get Austria? There's a number of folks from here on the boards. Cheers, Dave

Hi Freya, I'd love to help you on this one but the only thing I can really do is to send you lots of positive energy. I'm sure you'll make it alright! Do you utmost and it will work out. And should you ever need a set of Dedos in Vienna or the like be sure to give me a call! Cheers, Dave PS: I know the feeling. And I love it!

Hi John, I hope you get better soon. You know, three phase power is waiting for you! Cheers, Dave

Yes, second that. It's also about safety. Inexperienced crews will often do things the dangerous way. And you can't always do 80% of the work alone and teach a couple of newcomers and watch them how they do things you tell them to! Or you can have a second pair of eyes implanted on the back of your head! :D Cheers, Dave

Not necessarily. If your shutter speed is high, you'd get sharp pictures. The footage would look choppy. But, of course, if you just run your camera at a slower speed with the same 180° shutter you'd get more motion blur. Cheers, Dave

Hi Alain, if rental is out of the question for various reasons I'd recommend hiring a cinematographer who already owns a camera or has access to one. There is many of us around. No need to endure the hassle of selecting, collecting and paying for the body, lenses etc yourself. After all, that is, in part, what we are here for. ;). I think that S16 will be a good choice for just about any story of that kind. Unless of course, you need the increased resolution of 35mm for opticals, VFX etc. I'd recommend spending the savings on set design, costumes and the like. Regards, Dave

Hi Bob, if your camera is set 250 ISO and you use 500 ISO film you'll overexpose your film by one stop. That's no problem for modern negative stocks. What's happening here is, albeit too a lesser extend, done by many people here on the boards. Rating 500T at 320 ISO as many do will help tighten your grain and you're just taking that a little bit further by 'rating' it at 250. But I have no idea if your camera will recognize your film cartridge correctly, I'll leave that to be answered by the Super8 buffs around here. OTOH you could just use an exposure meter or a still (D)SLR to meter and use the camera in manual mode. IMO that's much preferable as you can set your exposure deliberately where you want it and not accept what the camera thinks is correct for your scene. Cheers, Dave

Another advantage is quality of tools made here in Austria and of course Germany. ;) Cheers, Dave

Hi Ron, when did you buy the film? Cheers, Dave

Yup, that's the variable shutter. It should be all the way up IIRC. If that fails too, I'm pretty clueless... Oh, are you certain you have rotated the turret in such a way that you're looking through a lens and not at the back of a lens port cap? Just to make sure.... ;) Cheers, Dave

There should be a lever on the side of the finder to close/open it. Check that! Cheers, Dave

Hi Kane, hehe, you're welcome. I know, I got lazy once or twice too and didn't search thoroughly as I should have! Cheers, Dave

As Walter pointed out, formatting a drive the normal way only deletes the MFT (Master File Table). This section of the drive basically tells the system what is on the disk and where. Unless you have overwritten the disk with new data the old data is still there. Even after a format. I have successfully recovered OMFI files on a friend's disk formatted in error. That was a while ago so I don't recall the software I used. On it was a Windows disk, but that shouldn't really matter. Cheers, Dave

Hi John, three phase power (380V) is pretty common here. We had it in my parents house from the start. Numerous other people who have hobby workshops would also have it. And out in the country is pretty much everywhere as nearly every one who does farming or gardening on a larger scale has a couple of appliances for three phase power. Cheers, Dave

Hi Kane, Reflex lenses will be compatible with C mount cameras mechanically and IF you stop down to around f4 you should get a sharp picture. Lenses for RX have a FFD of 20.76mm to accommodate the prism for finder instead of the normal 17.52mm. This is applicable when using non RX lenses on a Bolex RX or when using RX lenses on other cameras. However this applies only to lenses <75mm. With longer focal lengths the depth of focus is large enough even when wide open! Cheers, Dave PS: This question has been asked numerous times in the past, no doubt a search will yield more complete info! PPS: As for mounting a C mount lens on the Beaulieu 4008, hm. I think nothing should keep you from doing that mechanically with a D to C mount adapter, but the above restrictions would apply nevertheless.