Jean Beaudoin

Check the black button on top of the camera, it has a R on it. This is the lap dissolve feature on the Nizo. Try depressing it and then pull the trigger. The camera should start if this is the problem.

I have used all of the above and was very pleased with a recent process and transfert using FramByFrame at B&W filmfactory. :rolleyes:

Currently in Plettensburg Bay working on the Crusoe TV series I am looking for a lab to process Super 8 negative. Anyone knows a place ?

Yes on paper it has almost everything you could dream of back in the 70's. Long/short dissolves/fades. double exposure with the 200ft cartridge, sound !, 12,162/3, 18, 24, 25, 36, 54 fps, auto/manual exposure, f1.4 opening, +1 back light correction and 1/3 increments possibiity. What else man I cannot think of: just open the side panel and look inside; this is like a motherboard on a computer. Lens is OK, no more though. But put a 200ft cart and a compendium and you look like Holywood my friend (on a budget !). :rolleyes:

The only reason the Nizo 6080 (and the 4080/6040 as well) is quiet is because it is belt driven and that is a time bomb inside of it: unless you open it and can judge the wear you have no idea when it is going to break on you wich is what happend to my 6080. I have been looking for a belt everywhere for almost a year now ! It does not accept Supermag 400 unless big modifications are made and since 200ft cartridges are a thing of the past you can only use any of the 50ft available out there. Also it was the last camera produced by Nizo and the quality control was very bad then especialy if this 6080 has the UWL marker on the front lens. 300$ would be the top price IMHO since the mat box is worth 100$. Good luck !

Here is a combo for you. The Pro and the S800 are two different cameras in many ways: lens, auto B, +1, Pilotone generator, etc... I have shot a documentary for the CITIZENS project (Citizen Benjamin) using this camera. http://www.cinecitizens.com/ Using sync sound without any problems (other than syncing it!), film was transfered at 24fps at Spectra. :)

Here it is ! :rolleyes:

I encountered the similar problems with the dreaded Kodak 64T batch 309 using both my CLAs Nizo Pro and Beaulieu 4008 shooting a title sequence using cards even though I did the usual pre-loading taping, winding and praying protocol ! No jams but sooooo noisy and forget about registration. Not doing any dissolves or double exposure at all, I can only guess what it would have been. I also ran into worse jittering using Plus-X. Vision II 200 and 500 are less problematic it seems. Good luck :unsure:

That is the question: how can you re-center a lens on a body designed to have such lens centered ? Same question applies to the Beaulieu 4008 ZM II body they advertise as Max 8. I would be curious to see the actual result compared to a regular 1014 or 4008 and check the differences with a magnifier !

One other thing with the Test setting is that you can actually pre-set your aperture and have the electrical zoom working. In Manual the electrical zoom is disabled and so is the auto-aperture. In Auto both aperture and zoom are working. I ran into this by accident. Using the Test setting allows you for manual aperture and control of the power zoom. It can be usefull in specific conditions. :rolleyes:

Salut Jean-Louis Voici un lien pour la Nizo Pro qui, essentiellement, possède toutes les caractéristiques que les 481/561/801. http://www.duallcamera.com/nizoprofessional_english.zip

Is this a 801 or a 801 Macro ? It may be that the macro focus ring is engaged. :blink:

I entierly agree Michael. I am now in the process of finishing a short film and I choose to film it only on Vision II 200T and 500T. I had great footage done on 64T but rejeced it because I did not want to mix the stocks. Frame Discreet is handling the transfert right now and Niagara Custom Lab did the process. Shot with Nizo Pro and Beaulieu 4008 ZM II. Images to come for the benefit of everyone...

I have been shooting more then 50 cartriges of Kodak Ektachrome 64T, Vision 2 200T and 500T, Tri-X B&W over the past year. I have used Nizo 800S, Nizo Professional and Beaulieu 4008 ZM II cameras, all CLA (cleaned lubed aligned). The only time I encountered a problem was with the 800S AND TRI-X: very noisy, unstable image during filming (bad registration). I always get my stock directly from Kodak in Montréal, I assume it is fresh and apart from that single roll all were fine. You need a camera that is overhauled and in top condition to start: fresh batteries or power supply; fresh stock. There should'nt be any problem if all these conditions are met. :rolleyes:

Did you have your camera set on manual or automatic when doing the speed up ? I did this with my ZM II and it was barely noticeable ! Had a plane almost stop in the sky ! :lol:

Next time you do real time slow-motion using the speed adjustment ring(24-70 fps) use a automatic lens such as the Optivaron that will compensate by opening the iris as the speed and gillotine shutter accelerates. Barely noticable ! Great camera. :rolleyes:

Anyone knows where I could get a belt for a NIZO 6080 ? :unsure:

Where can we find Fuji Velvia Super 8 cartridges in North America ? In Canada ?

I assume you are refering to a Beaulieu 4008 ZM II camera and it's TALON D'ACHILE the battery... You can find a charger on EBAY or e-mail me I have a 220v-110v for sale.

Nizo Professional Super 8 movie camera for sale : link below http://cgi.cafr.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?V...E:L:LCA:CA:1123

You have a great camera in your hands (the Nizo 6080) and if it overexposes your film check the ring on the right hand side of the camera at the base below the lens: there is a ring that can adjust the aperture of the auto-exposure. Here is a link to the camera manual http://www.duallcamera.com/nizo_6080-6056.pdf check page 20 This ring was designed to give the filmaker a range in projection (brighter/darker). Put it back to zero or in the middle if you wish and the exposure should then be correct with all of the Kodak stocks (Plus-X, Tri-X, 64T, 200T and 500T). If not, you should have your camera CLA (cleaned, lubed and aligned) and it will be perfect ! :lol:

From my little experience with a 4008 ZM II, first you must remember to set the film speed corectly: for instance if you shoot 200T indoors, set the ring to 200 ASA and PUT THE FILTER REMOVAL KEY INTO PLACE (just above the grip on the right hand side below the cartrige door). Now if you use the same stock outdoors well you need to put a 85B filter on your lens to convert this Tungsten balanced film to sunlight (5400 K) and set the ASA ring speed to 160 ASA OR cut a notch on the cartrige to enable the BUILT IN filter to set into place wtih the ASA ring at 160 ASA. Then of course charge your power pack or recharge the battery, make some framing tests, camera speed tests (2,4,8,12,18,24,36, 72 fps) shutter open, half-closed, closed, fade in/out. Process, transfert and screen. Then ajust accordingly framing if viewfinder is off compared to desired framing. Good luck with the best super 8 body ever designed. What lens are you using ? 1.8 6-66 or 1.9 8-64 or prime lens ? Good luck ! :rolleyes:

I am to try and push the process of Kodak Super 8 Ektachrome 64T. Using Kodak E-6 single use chemistry kit in a small tank my question is: Do I push at 1st developer stage (6 min. @ 100F) and how much longer ? Or push at Reversal satge (2 min. @ 100F) Or push at Color developer stage (6 min. @ 100F) and how much longer ? And how many F stop do I gain with let's say 1 min. more ? Thanks

I sent a 4008 ZM II bought on ebay from a seller in Switzerland and it was jammed, dead battery and a few other problems. My tech, M. Beaulieu (!) repaired it within a month here in Montreal, Canada for 250$ CAN. Cleaned, lubed and aligned perfectly. http://www.makisoft.net/universel-photo. Happy new year to all S8 guys !