Andries Molenaar

The rear part is completely different. Is has a different retro-lens/setting and the tube is shorter. Finding an original Leicina edition is the simplest way to go.

Nope, the M flange is way too much forward. I.e. the C lens can't produce sharp images then. Is there a C-lens on M-mount adapter. It would only make sense for lenses without retro-projection and then in a macro set-up.

Good luck, I hope it pays off. One day ?

Clearly it is. The camera shorts the terminals in the connecting point. Take it from there. Best were to find a Sony Walkman with recording opion or a MiniDisc recorder withproper input. Possibly a Digital recording thing wiht a simple iinput exits. I would not start a project of constructing a digital apparatus using Arduine and what more. You will never win back the time and effort. simplest were to record just using a shart ahead, a clapper thing and stop after the scena was filmed. Good luck.

INdeed, the physical apperance is less important ? The cameras supplies a shorting switch. It connects the terminals when running. On classic taperecorders the remote was a switch in serial with the switches in the recorder.

The manual states that the connector can control a tape recorder. In that era it means it will short/connect the terminals when the camera runs. This would be connected to a remote control 2.5mm input of a recorder. On single frame it is fairly useless. ALthough the test flash demonstrates that the camera is working properly. The trick is now to find a recorder which takes such a control or fix two wires inside a recorder or existing remote control with a button when pushed makes it record ?

That is what I suggest too. All this overdesigning is not going to pay back. With so many hours spent you are never going to win back over manual control. Good luck.

Apparently the camera has a shorting/making-switch behind the flash contact. Your intended recorder has apparently a serial protocol on its input. So you need to fabricate a circuit/controller which sends proper commands to start and stop the recorder. All from a distance so with conditions ? Good luck and don't short any powersupplies.

It is serial with a protocol, judging by the features. Design for that. Good luck.

Sounds good. Then the mission is to find a recorder with a simple remote input, if these exit. Find a cable from and old flash and connect it to the recorder using a 2.5mm or what is to be found on it.

Good luck, simple would be to use some sort of cable like on late Super-8 camera to control a cassette recorder. Using arduino like things is not simple to most people. If there is no direct outlet on the camera you are busted.

Well, if the Canon has a flash contact to flash every frame it is not intended to control a recorder. You are in for a lot thinkering. If it were a short-contact to drive a recorder it could drive cassettes or tape recorder. It seems digital recorder don't have the same simple shorting inputs. Simplest might be to fix two parallel to the RECORD button and possibly find a place for a receiver-connector on the hill. That might work on the simple Olympus dictaphone here. It would deliver superior audio in comparison to ancient tapes ? Possibly the more expensive one might have remote control input, intended for listening back by the typist. Another option might be to use a portable MINI-DISC-drive. Digital and stereo

This H4n pro doesn't list 2.5mm in the specs. Or are there other specs? It seems this one has a 2.5mm jack for remote control: https://www.tascam.eu/en/dr-40x#specs The CANON has a flash contact with possible lock. Popular in the 60-ies? Best to adapt a flash cable and fix a 2.5mm jack to it. Or what another recorder might require.

Cassette recorder were fairly common to have a 2.5mm remote inlet mini-jack. Often microphone had a 3.5 and 2.5 sife by side on one plug-assembly Are the digital recorders with these same 2.5mm jacks? Possibly the more professional carry on recorders?

that should/could work.

If your loop is 50 cm it might work just like that. If it two meters you need to keep the material safe and need to guide through some rollers high up or feed it in a box to zigzag in and pull it out on the otherside. You might also attempt to use a projector loop device like the Norismat, GePe spool and what more. There are also modern more detailed design which manage the film caringly to reduce the wear. BTW you loop it by connecting the start to end using a splicer.

You need to manage the loop material. Through a set of rollers or possibly in a 8mm thick box. Mind the wear on the film.

There is a french super-8 specialist who offers them for beaulieu. The trick is that the lens can get close to the eyepiece as if it were an eye. Pickup the image there which beams out as if coming from infinity. The focus of the bullet camera needs to be at infinity. It seems bullet cam has changed in meaning. It is now more a type of security camera.

Camera in small housing. A bit like a bullet (from an Elefant rifle). Round shape, lens in front, cable from the rear. Easy to clamp in a holder. It is a bit of pre gopro thing. People used them for filming from a head-band , I believe. Output analogue to go to a recorder or screen. Or now digitizer.

There is a specially designed machined brick of coated aluminium which can take a 4008 and mount a pair of rods to the camera. I am not sure if it is on eBay. It cost more than most pay for their 4008 ?

The Leicina should be too hard to fix. A nice low body and firm thread-position. The budget rod systems often enough have a small block to lift the camera (a dSLR these days) somewhat up to allow the focus to fit underneath. This works well with the Leicina. ? The 6008 needs a wedge to make it point horizontal when on a horizontal surface (like your tripod head with a rod-set). With that it should be possible but the optical axis is fairly then. Also the grip interferes with positioning a focuser ?

ask super16inc before attempting anything other. Others will charge arms and legs.

Cover the cartridge is difficult. The cart wil be pressed againt the gate. THere are hubs protruding. On the right-side there will be the claw advacing the film.

Covering half the frontlens is not going to produce clean separated half-images. Mind the graphics of lightbeam through lenses from physics class. Beams hitting left or right in the frontlens still make it to both sides. Best were to cover half the filmgate in camera. Mind that when filming the image is left-right swapped on the film.

Even today! Although no factory stock left. With a detailed list.