Luke Prendergast

Liquid Nitrogen - fast, safe (as long as you're sensible), easy, environmentally friendly. Check YouTube.

I believe a zirc is a pellet of zirconium powder that sparks on impact. Not for firing at actors.

I had something of an Archimedean Eureka! moment yesterday, though I was washing dishes at the time, not bathing. A bubble of detergent across the mouth of a glass formed a lovely swirling shimmering portal and brought to mind the frequent call for a heat-wave effect. Haven't tried it in front of a lens yet. I didn't run naked into the street either.

I've used CCTV multiplexers for this. Very cheap. Only for composite SD though.

I take it you mean 'bobbinete'? http://www.rosebrand.com/subcategory157/fa...bobbinette.aspx

It sounds like a pickup line, but I really like your black level. Helps very much to sell hot and dusty. Nice work.

Of course.

One of the many things streaks'n'tips is for.

CP16R body, regular viewfinder, Angenieux 10x15 T2.3, 3 x PLC-4 mags. 1 batt and charger and one batt shell. Can recell if req'd. Spare mag belt. The centipede belt is missng some legs but still works fine ($35-40USD for a replacement from Visual Products or Whitehouse). John Barry Stronghold hardcase. Offers. Ballarat Vic.

Sounds reasonable. Would be nice to be able to search members by location too.

Thanks Frederico.

Been saving all sorts of stock for a feature that wanted a lot of looks, but that project is on hold for the time being. Would prefer not to split the lot. Will ship to Australia only. Weight is nearly 20 kg before packing so would have to be 2 parcels to go by post. I'm in Ballarat, Vic if someone wants to pick it up. Stored in a cool dark room, but not refrigerated. Make me an offer. Here's the list: SE = Short End RC = Recan No label = factory sealed 2R = 2 perf, no label is single perf KODAK 7245 EXR50D 400' 400'2R 7218 500T 400' 400'RC 170'SE 150'SE 120'SE 100'SE 7274 200T 400' x 6 250'SE 160'SE 110'SE 7217 200T 400' 100' daylight spool 400'RC 320'SE 190'SE 7212 100T 400'RC x 2 240'SE 210'SE 170'SE 160'SE 90'SE 80'SE 7240 125T Reversal 400' 7250 400T Reversal 400' 7278 TriX 200 100'2R daylight spoo FUJI 8425 RT400 400'RC 8610 F64T 400'2R 8621 F64D 400' x 3

Those shots are very reminiscent of Tori Amos' Super 8 clips from Scarlet's Walk. Nice.

I have plenty of windows on all sides so take advantage of natural light during the day. Venetians in every room but the living area, which has unbleached muslin over the windows (it took 30 metres of it!). Soft and a little dim is what I find most comfortable to live in. In the second pic, with the translite of the bum (the companion top half is on the opposite wall), the overhead is in a normal conical desk lamp shade used upside down. There are a couple of 650w profiles on winchups for specials. Everything is on dimmers so I can warm it up and drop the level at night. I love tungsten so no daylight balanced anything here, no flos and no CFLs. And definitely no MR16 downlights. Anywhere there's a bulb in the ceiling I haven't shaded, it's a crown-silvered type so it's bounced from the ceiling. Theres not a light in the place that can shine directly in your eyes. Gradients of light are something else I love so any workspace has at least a desk or floor lamp to compliment the room's base exposure.

Did they get a photo of it?

Commercially, CO2 is recovered from gases that are byproducts of other processes that would be vented to the atmosphere anyway, so tinned CO2 is not adding to the level in the atmosphere, just making a stop on the way.

Basically it's a 10mm stainlees steel rod with the appropriate thread cut for a brass and ceramic socket, wiring through the rod and crimped into the end to secure it, heatshrink sleeved on the exit for additional strain relief. The support for the china ball is heavy baling wire - two identical pieces formed into an approximation of the original harp, with a ring on each to fit around the socket where a lampshade would normally be secured, and proportioned such that the lamps filament is in the centre of the china ball. The whole thing is EARTHED; important given that you're handling bare metal with mains power running inside. If you're not inclined to build your own - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/China-ball-Chinese-...9QQcmdZViewItem

It's a 4 pin Hirose, pin 1 gnd, 4 +. Sony part no. 1-566-425-11

I've shown mine before, but here it is again:

Bare mains terminals...

! Mains power is not something to be poking a cheap meter into! It may have a 1000VAC range but if it's not rated CATI or CATII you are risking your life. I've seen such meters actually explode on more than one occasion. Regarding the battery belt - can you access the cells to read their label? If they are NiCd or NiMH they are 1.2v each x number of cells = total voltage (providing they are wired in series).

I've thought about this shot before. Haven't tried it, but I'd build the swing with only the visible part of the suspension as rope or chain, and the upper section as pipe so you can rig standard grip gear from it. You may be able to sleeve the rope/chain of an existing swing with pipe.

For a full lens conversion, yes the dollars may be reasonable, but if all they've done is put the lens in a bigger barrel with more convenient markings and a focus gear, I don't think the tripling in price is reasonable. It's still Nikon mount isn't it? Still focusses the wrong way? I haven't laid hands on the P+S lenses, but they look like the same lens in a shell, rather than a converted lens. There is too little detail on the P+S site to tell exactly what they've done.

You will likely have to add some diffusion to clean up the beam, and suffer the stop loss, as focussed LEDs tend to project a very ugly beam.

I think you look quite fetching in silver...Check out Sunshine BTS pics for a similar reflection trick to what I described.