Luke Prendergast

John Pytlak gave this answer in 'another' forum: "If you are actually photographing the movie on screen as viewed by the audience, you will need to sync your camera to the shutter in the projector to avoid any flicker or shutter bars. To get the burned frame, just quickly cut the print film (2383, 2395) between the projector gate and the intermittent pulldown sprocket with scissors --- the film will stop instantly in the gate while the frame is stationary on the screen, which will then char and blister as it sits in the intense light beam of the projector. Any xenon lamp over 2000 watts should be enough to burn a frame stopped in the gate. Have the projectionist be ready to close the dowser to avoid too much smoke or damaging the projector lens, and then turn off the projector to avoid a film pileup above the gate. For a bit less contrast in the on-screen image, you might consider using Kodak VISION Color Teleprint Film 2395 as your sacrificial print. Base your exposure on the light level of the print on the screen. Standard screen luminance is 16 footlamberts, but some theatres and screening rooms have enough power to spare to give you a higher light level."

The Cooler. The TV series 'Las Vegas'.

There is a significant safety issue in that the neutral is tied to earth at the fuse box of the building. Example: If a single pole wall switch is wired to switch neutral rather than active, your toaster will still have live AC even when switched off, so when when you stick a knife in there to get your stuck slice of toast out, after switching it off the wall to be 'safe', KAPOW! Even if it works, doesn't mean it's right.

There is a neutral, an active, and usually an earth/ground. Suggest you don't do any mains wiring without further study.

Did you get the input and output the right way around?

Very nice work...but...there's a Chimera reflected clearly in the counter top. I've been caught like that before.

The K3 and older CP16s do.

They might still do B+W reversal, but not VNF.

40 Punt Road Windsor VIC 3181 (03) 95104640 Haven't dealt with them for a year or so, since they stopped processing reversal.

Hardish light bounced off a length of silver 'disco' fabric hanging and gently agitated by a fan, gives a very realistic light-off-water effect. No water required.

Maybe they have a lower tolerance for stupidity than we who post here (that's a hint Matthew).

And there are fantastic filters in the Cokin range like the 'rainbow' which you can't get in Tiffen or Schneider.

Lovely work. Brave shooting 3 stops over!

Where are you?

The highspeed demo clip has some major issues with exposure fluctuation, random sparkles, and horizontal banding. I didn't look at the other examples. Doesn't look like it's a product yet.

Hang in place, spray creases and wrinkles with water from a mister (from the hair dept.) and shoot some hot lights at it and it will 'iron' itself.

1R - single perf, 2R - double perf.

If it's a double-ended linear tube in there, or an axial-mounted single-ended bulb, then tilt won't effect the life and safety of the globe itself, but heat concentration and dissipation through the housing can be an issue. Hanging a (filament) lamp sideways is never a good idea though - drooping hot wire stressed outside its design will blow bubbles real fast. Manufacturers' spec sheets will give safe operating angles. There's usually a sticker on the yoke as well.

Is the 'sharpening/detail' turned up too high?

Notes on the circuit: - Only one flash channel is shown. You need two of the output stage for an alternating 2 channel flasher. - Variable flash rate is achieved via adjustment of the resistance labelled 10k-250k. This is a dual-ganged pot in series with a fixed resistor, one half for each side of the oscillator. - The optocoupler is a triac driver eg., MOC3021. You could use sensitive-gate triacs and drive directly with the transistor and pullup resistor. You don't have to worry about which quadrant you're triggering the triac in if you're using an optocoupler. - The optocoupler LED is driven via the transistor and pullup resistor, so insert between these components. - The 39R/10n snubber is good manners but not necessary for function of the circuit. - The 470n in the voltage dropper may need to be increased to give the astable oscillator enough V's for reliable operation. - IT'S MAINS POWERED SO DON'T TRY THIS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING!

Hey, start your own thread instead of hijacking someone's spam.

Peter Stormares is someone I'd love to work with some day. One of my favorite actors.

I designed a 2 channel alternating mains flasher for a fish and chip shop gag. It's 240v and I didn't sketch it with the idea anyone would be looking at the schematic, so you'll have to do some interpretation. FlashSchem.bmp

Arri has the whole manual as a .pdf on their site.

Why don't you just use a real portal?