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michael best

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Everything posted by michael best

  1. It might be too much for what you need but Fisher does make "ice wheels" for there fisher dolly's. I have used them when I was doing a show back east and we where on ice. As for how we pushed the dolly we found some boots for glacer climbing that had small rubber knobs on them that gave us a pretty good grip on the ice.
  2. if your in an office odds say there are ceiling titles so you can try these clamps http://www.filmtools.com/matscisclamw.html. aka scissor clips they can hold a par can with no problem. Then other option is to remove the ceiling titles and see whats above. lots of times there are cross beams or places to mount lights.
  3. Chader camera or video fax are your best bets there are a few other smaller houses but those are the big ones. also try www.reeldirectory.com its a Sf based industry guide/listing
  4. I used to use excel However I found a program called PAID for both mac and PC it has some nice features that apply to the film/tv world. And it can be set to tell you when invoices are 30,45,and 60 days past due. I also keep and old fashioned paper calendar with job names and on it and a google calendar via my phone/computer
  5. You have a lot of Legal options... If you worked in the state of California no matter what you signed as a film tech you are an employee. As such they are required by law to pay you at the time of your termination. (aka when you are laid off due to the job ending.) We normally give producers 2 weeks on a time card job and 30 days on an invoice. What lawyers have had me do in the past for non paying employers is at 30 days send a friendly notice saying something to the effect of just a friendly reminders that I have not been paid, if there has been a problem with my time card/invoice please let me know. If you dont hear back from them and no check comes at 45 days send them a firm 2nd notice via certified mail or ups fedex ect. And take a video of you putting the invoice/letter (if its a time card) and handing it to the mail clerk. At the same time contact you local labor office http://www.dir.ca.gov/dlse/DistrictOffices.htm and start a non payment claim. If you want and it is recommended hire a lawyer. And you will get paided pretty quick and they will go after out of state companies if you where hired in the state of CA. Most companies pay as soon as they are served by the Labor office and you most likely will get a small amount of intrest and you can ask for lawyer fees to be added if you hired one. However if the company challenges your claim you will end up in civil court but these judges tend to rule harshly on non-paying employers. This does take time and energy but its the best legal way to get paid. However do watch out of companies that claim bankrupsy as if they do they can avoid paying you all together. If that's the case you need to get a lawyer right away to get on the list of creditors. Also when invoicing never include labor and equipment in the same invoice as it makes it easier for an employer to claim you are not an employee but an "company" or independent contractor, which would fall under different laws. But once they give you a call time, and tell you when you can break for lunch and release you, you are an employee as stated under state labor laws. (this also means they have to pay SS, taxes, and provide workman's comp. regardless if you are invoice or payroll. The things we let slide in our line of work...)
  6. If you can only have 3 rolls of diff. I would go Opal, 250, 216. I know with a 1 ton space is a huge issue, but having 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and full + and - green is a good idea. If you can find away also have Hampshire and 251 to the list 129 is great but in a 1 ton you tend not to have many big lights so it won’t be used that often. Also you may want to invest in 1/4, 1/2, and full grid as well, but on the west coast most camera men use the white diff over grid. Heat shield is a good thing to own. Soft Silver Flex, Thin Silver/Thin Gold, and Rosco Scrim are huge money makers when used... John is right Gel/expendables in general are a huge money maker for grip trucks, Tapes, sprays, beadboard, foam core, and black wrap are where most trucks make there money as the basic grip package on the van might only make 200 a day and the lights need maintance and up keep. While I have seen owner operators sell the same piece of foam core 8 or 9 times to different productions.
  7. That looks like the arm made by a company called autofuss. Its a San Francisco based company that was started by some former ILM people.
  8. Just had to deal with something similar to this today, it was an Image 80 but it weights about the same as a parabeam. The room was about 30x35 so wall spreaders where ruled out. We used the Max arm and it was perfect. If we had not had one of those on the truck we probably would have done goal posts with truss makers or a steel pipe, and asked the art department to help hide the stands if they edged frame. Hope this helps.
  9. A tool belt is a very personal thing. I have yet to meet two people with there belts set up the same way. This is what I keep on mine for the most part. However I do add and remove things depending on the job and what the job needs. A Lindcraft “gaffer” pouch – I like this one because the flap folds down when you open it so you have easy access to your tools but you can close it should you be working around cars, or climbing scaffolding. I wear a Husky padded belt. From right to left with a too, pouch, tape loop with a ½ roll or less of photo black paper tape, and a very small roll of 1” white gaffers tape to label things. (a dog collar is what I use), a water bottle pouch (I found if I have a water bottle on me I drink it and if I don’t I don’t drink much water) A walkie holder, hammer loop, a leather pouch for a small steel workers c- wrench, and a tape measure holder. Inside the pouch. A 6” ultra wide mount C-wrench – This is big enough to fit a 7/8” cheese boro while light enough to not bother me after a long day. 4 in 1 screw driver - cheap one from ACE or Home Depot so when I lose it I won’t care. Probably the least used tool on my belt Allen set- useful for fixing lose risers and rigging. 3/16 allen speed wrench – you can buy the modern one for make one from a ¼ socket wrench and 3/16 allen on it. 3/16 works on 99% of all speed rail fittings, so it gets used a lot. Small LED flash light – a use a LED mini mag as its semi cheap, puts out a ton of light and holds up well. Matte Knife Small channel locks – like them small so they don’t weigh much but useful for grabbing stuff. Diagonal cutters – for grip chain, or anything else you might need to cut. 9/16” speed wrench – 9/16’s is the head size of a 3/8” bolt which is the size allen screw you use for speed rail. It comes in handy for rigging. Sharpie & pen, and something to write on for notes. Pocket knife – does not have to be super good but its fun to have a good benchmade or emerson . I wear gloves, as I like to wear them when handling wood and speedrail. Other things on the belt: A 10 oz hammer. – comes and goes depending on the job, but it’s super useful, 25’ fat max tape measure – fat max so you can extend it out to about 12’ before it flops down. A dog bone – this is a 7/8 speed wrench on one side and a ¾” speed wrench on the other, very useful for cheese boros and the ¾” work great if you are working with pipe and base rigs. Other items I have in a tool bag: Full size channel locks 8” c-wrench – the 6” ultra wide mouth does 98% of all jobs but you will meet some Keys who want you to have an 8” c-wrench so its good to carry one. Drift pin – useful when working with truss Scissors- always come in handy Metric allen set – I have found these useful more then I would have ever expected. A socket set – most keys will have in there work box but on commercial and smaller jobs they can be a life saver. A torpedo level Needle nose pliers A small file Chalk line – useful for cutting lumber or long gel cuts. And a few other odds and ends that I have found useful over the years. If you are new to the industry and still working as both a grip and Electric you might want to have a volt meter and volt sniffer in your bag so when you juice you are ready. A few guys I work with like to have there tools in lots of smaller pouches across there belt while other people, like one big pouch. It really comes down to personal preference. One good rule is to have it be conformable to wear and have the tools you need. But depending on what jobs you’re on you may have other tools that you may want, or find handy. A few other things you will want to have are: a really good set of rain gear and rain boots. (don’t skimp buy good quality stuff as there is nothing worse then tearing it because its cheap or sweating up a storm inside because your body can’t breath.) Super comfy shoes, and a set of comfy work boots. A hat for sunny days sun glasses and a good warm jacket for cold days or night work. Also if I wear pants to set I have a pair of shorts with me and if I wear shorts I have pants standing by. Hope this helps a bit.
  10. Freyer Light 510-835-5800 Lighting by Steinheimer 415-672-4658 and DTC 510-595-0770 all 3 should be able to help you. Mike
  11. I have to agree with Matthew, If you have not been trained you probably should not try and build one. when we put a 20x on a condor we are pushing the limits of what they are designed to handle. The CSATF class cover a lot of what we can and can't do with condors, and more importantly covers which condors we can and can't use. The best advice I can give you is to hire a Best Boy who has taken the proper training and ask him to build them for you or have a grip who has been trained come out and build them the days when you need them. I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but its better to be safe then risk killing or harming someone.
  12. Without seeing a location I would say tent the windows from the outside and bounce your light in. But some places are ahrd to tent so you may want to talk to your key grip and see what he thinks.
  13. Its a motion control/ remote dolly, so the 2 grips the trained to set it up and handle all the software issues/needs. http://www.hotheads.tv/furio.html
  14. Tape is probably the fastest way to put the china ball up. But if you think the ball might need to move around a bit or that the 1 china ball might become a chine ball and oh wait can we add a pepper oh and a inkie you might want to make a goal post. all you need is 2 stands (3 riser combo, high roller, or mombo depending on how high you want to go and if you want it easy to move around.) a piece of 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" speed rail that will span the room, and 2 ears or big ben clamps to mount the speed rail to the stands. Then uses some #2 grip clips along the top so you can use the V top part to run your cable and you can tie off the china ball where ever you want it. And if say you need to add a small light or 2 you now have a mounting point for them, just add a pipe clamp.
  15. A lot of the motion control cranes/dollies are used for effects shots or plate shots so sync sound is not super important. However some cranes/dollies are better for sync sound then other. However if you are doing any moves that require fast movments to sudden stops you will hear the gears and or the worm drive. I think its Pacific Motion Control that does motion control dollies and cranes that are fairly quiet.
  16. The best way to reach Local 16 about joining is by phone, if you truly want to join. Its not easy nor is it super hard. Once you get a permit status which mean the union says its ok for you to work on union shows you have to make $30,000 or so in one year at that point local 16 will tell you that you can apply for the apprenticeship program. after applying you need to make $30,000 in the following year, once you do that they will interview you and then put you in the apprenticeship program. The apprenticeship program is about 3 years. Once you have finish your apprenticeship you are voted into the union (its a formality)and you pay your fees. The best way to make your $30,000 is to do hall calls which is not normally a film job its a lot of theater, event, and music jobs, but there is a strong film community. 16 is a mixed union so its more then grip and electic work. Which can be good in slower times as you can work the opera, music fests, ect. One other good thing about the mixed union is that you will learn more then just G&E. You can learn rigging which is very handy as a grip, carpentry (aka a theater grip), theater lighting, event lighting which can come in handy as a juicer or gaffer. There are a lot of people in 16 who make 100% of there living in film/tv. The best thing to do is call the office every few weeks. The best time to get a permit status tends to be the fall as there are a lot of events but if you can show you are smart and a hard worker you can work your way in any time. Hope this helps you a bit
  17. Fishers Square Track was made for fisher dollies so they would not need skate wheels. As a fisher dolly does not ride as well on round track as a Chapman. Its kind of a mute point with Skatewheels and some of the newer wheels fisher has come out with. But a fisher dolly had no problems running on square track and the curves are pretty smooth. But you do have to be more a little more on top of being "level" then round track.
  18. Just tying down the camera and and sticks should work. And it can be as simple as a ratchet strap straight down to the floor if there is a place to grab the floor. A vibration isolation mount is nice but can costs around $150 to rent. you could try a bungie cam mount, and that would eat up a lot of the bumbs and shacking, but it gives you a more hand held feel. But you can normaly rent those semi cheap is the road is really bad. But I think you are better off with sticks tied off to the bus.
  19. with $65 you are probably only going to get a door way dolly and well unless that floor is super smooth no matter what dolly you get you might need track for a smooth move. But you can call around to any rental house and they will probably have one. If you are in LA try Hollywood rentals. if you are nor cal try DTC or Freyer lighting.
  20. For most tilt plates you just slap the base plate on the tilt head and attach the locking plate to the other side of the tilt plate and then set your angle. Its pretty simple and fool proof... If you are worried have your ac check it on his prep day but you should be fine without that.
  21. Sadly the best way for him to get the right harness is for him to try them on. This can be hard with the hours we work. However you can get him in the general area for a harness by asking a few quick questions. 1- Is the Harness for Condor/scissor lifts or for climbing truss/rigging work? If he just needs a harness for condor/scissor lift duty you can go to www.gemplers.com or granger.com and get one. Just make surer that it does not come with an attached lanyard. When you find the harness also get a shock-absorbing lanyard. The most common is 6 footer, but you can find adjustable ones. Working in a condor/scissor lift he won’t need a Y lanyard so it’s not worth the extra money. Miller is the most popular brand. Petzil makes great harness as well however they tens to be more complex and I come form the keep it simple school of though when it comes to wearing a harness. If your son is climbing truss or doing hi rigging work he will need a more advanced harness, with a Y lanyard, and he may need some daisy chains, and 1” and 2” Steel auto locking carabiners as well. Sadly I really suggest he is there when buying this harness, as he will want to hang from it to see if it fits him and is comfortable to wear while climbing/working for the harness. And all they do is put him in the harness adjust it for him and then pull him up by a block and fall and have him hand there for a few minutes to see how it feels. I own a Yates 380rl - Voyager riggers harness with a miller Y lanyard. I am 6'2" 220lbs and I fit into a Large. Petzl also makes several good ones. I picked mine after trying on about 6 other harnesses and though this one was the most comfortable. However like most rigging harnesses they are far from a simple thing to put on. If your son is mostly doing condor/scissor lift work but every now and then need to climb truss or work up high Miller, Rose and Titan all make harness that have “positioning rigs” at the hips so they can be worn for climbing truss, when needed, but are much less costly then a true rigging harness. If you are in LA the best place to look for one is VERS sales in Burbank. They are one of if not the top rigging suppler in the country. If you are else where, you can try looking for the harness at the local expendable stores or look for a truss/rigging suppler in your area. I would really recommended trying to buy one at a local retailer as they will be aware of al the ANSI, OSHA and local regulations for body harness. The one thing I will say not to buy is a Rock climbing harness both OSHA and ANSI have said those are unsafe and I know in California illegal for use as fall protection in our line of work. Hope this helps you and your son find the right harness.
  22. "I would avoid mounting it on a proper dolly (Fisher 10 or Hybrid) simply because you risk damaging the dolly (wheel arms,king pin etc)with the amount of force the 2 tonne ratchet straps would exert." As long as you attach the rat straps to the lift points of the dolly you will be fine. I have talked to people at fisher before about the load ratings for there grab points. And I know Chapman well enough to say you should be fine, but if you have any questions you can call Chapman. As for moving the arm around, you will not have much space in the bed of the pick up with either a jib base or a dolly. So you won’t get much in the way of movement. But if you are just using the arm to reach out and offset the camera to keep the trucks dust out of shot you should be ok. However you will still have the problem of how to safety your crew members in the bed to the truck. But most importantly if you key grip does not feel 100% sure he can do this safely you should really look into a camera car that you can mount a crane into or a Russian arm for the shot. As those might seem pricey however they are quite cheap compared to the price of a lawsuit. Or even losing a day because you cant get the shot you need off the truck bed.
  23. You have couple of options, the "easist" is to mount the dolly in the back of the pick up. do a 4 point lock down with 1000lb or 2000lb rat straps going to 4 points and having the arm come off the dolly. However to do this you will want a full size pickup with rear dualiaes to help keep the ride stable. You have to pick you points carefully to make sure the rat straps dont bend or damage where ever yuo tie off too. You also could you sticks as your mount point, but the dolly will be stable. One other idea is to use steel pipe to span the pick up bed side to side, and have a mitchel mount in the middle and mount the arm to that. Again you have to be careful where you attach the rat straps. And make sure you can brace the arm/mount in at least 4 points.
  24. I would say just go with a shorter Lenny arm. yes it might be "overkill", but you know it can do the job. you could try mounting a porta-jib on the arm and with the arm at full height you would get about a 8' arc depending on the model you get, so it might work. Matthews also makes the Inta-jib which has a 10' and 16' arms so that will work. And you can mount that on a tripod or dolly arm. Mike Best
  25. Whats your Market? As a crane is a huge investment. Not only are you buying a crane, but a trailer to store it and a truck or heave duty van to tow it. depending on what you do it might make more since to buy a job arm. There are pros and cons to every crane out there. You should so some careful research on your market, and what the DP's and productions want. Call around to some crane owners and get there advice. If you want a ride able the Panther Pegasus Crane System is very popular but you should also look into getting a power pod as more and more productions want a remote head as its safer then people riding cranes. If you are thinking about a techocrane, you need to think about the size you want as the back end on the longer ones makes it hard to use in confide spaces. Either way you really should do more research for you market and see if you can make money on the crane as in some areas there is not enough of a demand to warrent a $100,000.00+ investment.
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