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Travis Gray

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Everything posted by Travis Gray

  1. It didn't. Oh, well, except maybe the bad ones who now add photoshop actions to everything because they think it's in now.
  2. Another option, while maybe not great because of color temperatures, are fluorescent bulbs. You can get a higher output light while still staying under what the socket is rated for, but just be careful and make sure the bulb you're trying to use can fit the fixture. I have a lamp I used as a practical and put a ~60w fluorescent bulb in it and it was just barely short enough to stay under the top of the shade.
  3. Don't hand over anything. You shot it, it's yours. Maybe if they had a contract with the label that said their likeness can't appear anywhere else or something, but I dunno if that kind of thing exists, and if you shot outside of that deal, then it'd still be yours. Don't hand anything over. You could be nice and do it, but why? Since this sort of deal wasn't talked about up front, there's nothing they can do. Copyright ownership laws here. Assuming you're in the US? Is this different anywhere else?
  4. I haven't used the standard still ones, so I can't directly attest, but I've read/been told that it's the same glass essentially, just in different housing. With the CP.2s, you're getting a standard sizing, gear teeth, etc. Not sure if there's a difference with breathing or anything though. You'd probably have to google around. I'm sure someone has done a comparison.
  5. You could maybe find something to rotate it on, create a pedestal type thing and attach it on that. and then flip it over and do it again, same speed, but opposite. Or attach from above. Basically layer the two videos, match, and matte. Or get a 3D CG model.
  6. Cine tape. Electronic measurement. http://www.cinemaelec.com/products/cinetapemeasure.php
  7. What you're looking for seems a little vague. If you hooked a microphone into it, it was something with an input and probably a preamp. And something that was compatible with your laptop. This is also a cinematography forum- and that really doesn't encompass straight sound questions.
  8. Not possible. It records in H.264. Even output from HDMI to a recorder would be compressed.
  9. Untrue. Some crappy ones may not be able to handle 10+, but I have yet to encounter one. Most household circuits are 15A, just based on what I've seen in most places I've been to/lived. 20A is a general standard, and you see it more commonly in commercial spaces. Now, you could hook into a washer/dryer circuit, but that's usually 220. They do make converters to split that out though.
  10. Check out a depth of field calculator online or an app (probably should just link to one: http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html) It's a combination of focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Big sensor, long focal length, and wide open aperture gets you a shallow depth of field, plus distance to object factors in as well. So on a Super35 sensor, 85mm, f/2.8, and 5ft away = .14ft (too lazy to convert haha) depth of field.
  11. Yeah. I think the biggest market is photographers/videographers on budgets, that DSLR crowd. And since I know a bunch of photographers, that's how I came across it. And people like that you can shove it all in a car and call it a day. And they have that brand association from their other lighting stuff.
  12. I just picked up one of the 24x36 kits. Almost was going to go with the set from filmtools, but I like that the wescott ones fold down nicely. I'll agree on the sliding holder thing though. Actually, looking at the bag now... maybe the package doesn't fold up much more compact than the full flags them selves. Still not horrible though.
  13. I haven't tried it yet, but if you go with the FS700 and have quicker pans, FCP X has that thing that supposedly can help mitigate rolling shutter. Maybe just to process the clips in question. Grab the trial and give it a go if you don't have it/have no intentions on really using it.
  14. Tried searching around to see what sizes people frequently use for frames, but either I'm not doing it right or there isn't really anything there, so try not to get too crazy about posting redundant stuff haha But, looking at getting some frames/diffusion/etc for some shoots coming up, and I figure I might as well just own things I'll frequently use. I do have some outdoors shoots, and I'm wondering if an 8x8 frame is worth having or if it's just something to rent on a shoot by shoot basis. So, basically, what sizes does everyone use most frequently usually and would be worth having?
  15. Yes. Audio. Nothing takes me out of a project more than bad sound. And then bad acting. And bad writing. I dunno. I'm a perfectionist. All of that. I would almost put focus pulling lower on the list. Make sure shots are in focus in general, but if you miss a mark when someone's moving, I don't think it would be the end of the world. And grading, as long as it doesn't look 100% awful. You'll learn new editing stuff as you go too. Just don't keep going back and recutting the same project. Keep shooting different stuff. But yeah. Audio. And make sure it's something at least you'd want to watch.
  16. Most on board lights are all the same... on board. I don't like using them because they annoy the crap out of whoever's in front of the camera. My suggestion is to push the ISO to something mostly useable, then push the gain a bit later in post, find angles that take advantage of what's there, and focus on getting good shots. I've found with events that I shoot that most people don't really notice grain and stuff like that. And to get really high quality stuff, you'd need to rig your own lights around the venue to shape it how you want.
  17. What's a simple light set up? I wouldn't recommend a DSLR for event coverage. Look into a camcorder that can handle proper audio inputs, can shoulder mount, and you can mount an onboard light. That's pretty basic. If you're definitely using the DSLR, making it easy to use can get expensive. Audio input controllers, shoulder mount system, lighting rigs... etc. Proper off camera lighting needs to be larger if you're working alone and need it sitting off to the side, just to be able to illuminate, or some kind of way to rig it onto the camera so you can also support a mic, maybe an EVF... etc. Look at Berkey system for a rig. Modular, so you can kinda build what works for you. I think Zacuto is pretty overpriced. You could try Redrock Micro too. They have some bundles. Not sure how the build is though. I only have their follow focus and it doesn't exactly feel amazing. I've read kinda crap things about their matte box system, so not sure how the rest of their rigs are. What kind of lighting are you going for?
  18. This is how the bullet time effect was done: http://www.elcraneo.8m.com/images/bullet_time.jpg And if you try to do something similar with video cameras 8 ft apart, you're obviously going to be missing some visual data when moving between the cameras, so some effects work needs to be done. Exactly what that is, I'm not sure. I know sports presentations have been doing something like it, but the players kinda go into paper figure mode and they angle to a different camera. So it exists, but not sure if that's what you'd be looking for.
  19. The Matrix bullet time effect was done with many SLRs all lined up, fairly close together, to get that effect. This would probably require extensive 3D modeling to get a seamless movement from cameras further apart. One idea would be to add more cameras into the mix, let them all roll, sync up the footage in the edit, and then make cuts. Or... couldn't you just dolly the camera?
  20. What's going to help you tell the story better? There's your answer.
  21. Oh, actually, you could look into magic lantern. I believe that has guidelines. Assuming you're using your camera for just video, then I heard it's a pretty good way to go. http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Magic_Lantern_Firmware_Wiki Haven't used it myself though, just heard something from a guy I worked with on a project.
  22. Framing chart, yes. I tried the letterboxed file route and couldn't get it to play, but also the way it plays something vs how live view is framed is different (at least on Nikon), so you wouldn't be able to get the exact lining right. I measured out stuff on a wall with tape (didn't think of printing) and tried it that way, recorded, and then letterboxed and it was close. But then I drew the lines poorly on my screen cover. Gave up. Stopped caring haha
  23. On mine I drew some guidelines on the LCD screen cover, and I can then switch it out with a clean one if I don't want them. Oh, nevermind. Nikon has screen covers, not canon. (sorry, had to throw that in there) Why not look into some removable screen protectors? Cut to size. Figure out your measurements (tough, annoying) and draw them on. Or look into an EVF. I use a SmallHD and there's a preset that blows up the live view to fit the right way on the screen, and then when I throw on my guidelines, it's correct.
  24. What's "good color grading"? I wouldn't push too far. Codec doesn't really hold up very well, but some grading can be done. Probably have to convert to ProRes first, I've never taken H.264 directly in. Also haven't done grading in iMovie. You mean FCP X? Da vinci should be fine too.
  25. I see what you're saying now. Just looked this adapter up http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/765130-REG/MTF_Services_Ltd_MTNIKGF3_Nikon_G_to_Sony.html And I see it says compatible with DX/35mm lenses. That just means that a lens labeled DX will be ok as well as any of the other lenses for 35mm format. And the adapter will introduce an additional 1.5x crop. And it has the manual aperture adjustment so you'd be good to go.
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