Vobla Unsane

would love to watch it, yet it's password protected ;)

Dear all, I have purchased some 2nd hand fresnel lights. http://www.strandarchive.co.uk/documents/patt828_instructions.pdf By removing the lens, I believe to get a bit more light and great shadows (chief reason to go lensless), yet not sure how safe that would be in case of lamp failure. Would it be a good idea to use a square of tempered or laminated glass in the colour frame as a precaution? On the other hand openface fixtures only have a scrim.. Many thanks in advance!

true, there are no additional optical elements, but it essentially it causes your lens to focus closer than it was designed to, therefore any lens issues there may be are magnified! It's probably trivial while using good lenses. Other nifty thing to try would be to reverse your lens on the camera. You can find cheap adapter rings for that reason. I believe this is a better method as you do not use extra glass nor you magnify lens issues. eg: http://digital-photography-school.com/reverse-mounting-your-prime-lenses-for-affordable-macro-photography Or even add a reversed lens on top of another lens (something I haven't tried yet): http://digital-photography-school.com/reverse-lens-macro-close-up-photography-lesson-3 Cheers

Cheap diopters soften things a bit, especially when paired with a vintage lens. I believe extension tubes are not brilliant either. If you are after quality use macro lens, otherwise you are good with either alt option.

+ possibly pinch of vignetting in post

why dont you get yourself a little generator or 1000w car inverter to run 300w and 650w lights. would give you little more light.. just an idea ;) I shot a test sceene with one candle recently having a subject to carry it next to her face. I used f2.8 and about 800 ISO and skin was slightly underexposed (meter registered little over 40% as opposed to usual 50%-60%), but given that action takes place in a pitch black environment I found it acceptable. cheers

Take a look at Samyang. Currently don't own any lenses from them, but according to some reviews those are good budget lenses. They have vdslr 85mm T1.5 and some longer photo lenses.. Cheers

You need to create a temperature difference. Cool the glass or steam it by placing a container with boiling water next to it. If you want to repeat the effect make sure to dry the glass before steaming it again. Hope that helps.

Hi, I would assume modern stadiums to be equiped with good quality lighting.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrargyrum_quartz_iodide wikipedia suggests that temperature can vary depending on composition, so hope that they used same type of bulbs for the whole stadium. I'm quite a newbie when it comes to lighting, so it gives me ideas what I should be reading, but I would white balance on stadium lights, look at the camera temperature and green/magenta shift and would match my lights accordingly.. Interesting, looking forward to read some replys :)

I think 3d doesn't really add another dimension to a motion picture, but distorts the exsisting one. As for 4K/8K it will probably be driven forward for a while, but isn't everything that is new and shiny. Reminds me of HD TV's back in a day when broadcasting signals were not capable delivering HD and TV's only streched the image. If I'm not mistaken, in London, only IMAX has 4k. That is one theatre! Heard someone saying that 8K would make them run around the cinema to be able to see all projected image :) Anyway, K will go with first usable vector based codec and K will mater no more for a cinematographer, but projector manufacturer.. Cheers.

I usualy batch process images using irfan view - http://www.irfanview.com/ Love this app for quick previews of images (even raw's open swiftly), batch, other tasks. Lightweght, fast, free. Cheers.

I would start with P9X79 mother board and look at cpu, gpu, ram, storage, other hardware you may need and finaly power supply. If you use Adobe products, look at nVidia cards for GTX as budget option and Quadro series for pro use. Cheers

It doesn't depend on the camera, but rather how you set it up, light your sets, etc. For this reason you should know how to read various meters, waveforms, scopes, etc. rather then blindly relying on what you see on your monitor or hear via headphones. In short, for a newbie kit, I would suggest the following: Canon 550D + Magic Lantern (http://www.magiclantern.fm/), several manual lenses, couple of tungsten spot lights, reflector, diffuser, tripod.. Cheers

Hi, I would strongly suggest you to look at Magic Lantern add-on that runs from your card on camera start up. Besides clean HDMI output, it has amazing features without which I personally cannot imagine film making with my 550D. http://www.magiclantern.fm/