John Pytlak RIP

Right now, ALL Kodak professional motion-picture films are manufactured in the United States, and all are sensitized on Rochester's most state-of-the-art machines. Some still film products may be sourced out of China. Kodak continues to invest millions of R&D dollars per year in new and improved motion picture (Entertainment Imaging) FILM products.

Kodak has some excellent on-line publications about printing and the LAD system I developed: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/h1/h1_pdfs.shtml http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/...5.8.6&lc=en http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en...ort/h61/h61.pdf

Although 7218 with three stops of overexposure will capture the image information, the processed negative may be so dense that it will be more difficult to print or transfer at the "normal" lab setup. Also, some telecines will have increased noise level with very dense negatives.

If there is any question at all that a film has proper forehardening technology to survive a modern high temperature process, NEVER just send it to a lab for processing. The physical integrity of gelatin emulsion can also be adversely affected by age. And even if a film "survives" going though the machine without the emulsion falling off, you could have issues of reticulation. ALWAYS let your lab know exactly what they are processing.

If you want to shoot color negative film, push processing is also an easy way to increase contrast and maintain lots of color saturation. Fine-grained slower films won't get much grainier if push processed. Yes, for 35mm release prints, consider Kodak VISION Premier Color Print film 2393 to get higher contrast and more saturation.

Here's what I wrote about 65mm production and 70mm prints almost ten years ago: http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en...ytlak/70mm1.pdf http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en...ytlak/70mm2.pdf

I agree, the film is probably fine. But after years of storage, I would still advise running a short test before shooting anything critical. My biggest concern would be physical issues like ferrotyping or ice crystals, if there were excess moisture in the cans during freeze/thaw cycling.

Yes, "Photographic Grade" is the most appropriate guide.

Temperature has probably the greatest effect on how fast raw stock deteriorates with age. The cooler, the better. In most cases, refrigeration (less than 10 degrees Celsius) is more than adequate to give years of shelf life, so freezing is usually not necessary. Freezing and thawing has its own set of risks, such as the formation of ice crystals inside the roll, so I usually recommend only refrigeration. Ambient radiation (e.g., gamma rays, cosmic rays) causes fogging, regardless of storage temperature. Things like local sources of radiation, elevation, and latitude can effect the level of radiation, so don't store your film on a mountaintop or near a uranium mine or radiactive waste dump. ;)

My family and I am overwhelmed with the hundreds of good wishes and memories that John Hawkinson was able to gather from my friends on the Internet. Today, a large DHL package arrived on our doorstep. It contained three large mounted posters with kind words and photos from friends on Cinematography.com and other Internet groups that I participate on. This unexpected surprise brought great happiness and comfort to me and my family, knowing that we are not alone in our current struggle, and that the times that I have been able to help someone on the Internet are long appreciated. Even beyond the contributions to the wonderful posters, the personal notes, cards, and even gifts from my friends here on Cinematography.com and other groups have been very thoughtful. Thanks to you all. Again, keep us in your thoughts and prayers. John Pytlak Eastman Kodak Company 175 Hillrise Drive Penfield, New York USA 14526-1648

When spooling your own, pay particular attention to cleanliness, careful winding to avoid scratching, and static. Wind slowly and smoothly, and electrically ground your rewinds.

The information is on the Kodak website: http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en...PCN101404_Q.pdf

Unfortunately, my May 16 CAT scan showed at least three areas of blockage caused by the tumors growing along my small intestine. Lately, it is very difficult to get enough water into my system to stay hydrated. IV hydration is a short term-option, but hospice end-of-life care is strongly being suggested. We gave it our best shot with the Chemo to slow the growth of the tumors. Further surgery (e.g., ostomy) has been ruled out do to the multiple tumors and blockages. So depending on how things go over the next few weeks, this may be my last posting. I've really enjoyed all the support and good wishes from my friends here on Cinematography.com. It has cheered me during my long illness. I've enjoyed helping Kodak's customers, and discussing the growth and changes in this facinating industry. Please continue to keep me and my family in your thoughts and prayers. John

I wish I could eat some cake, but it is not on the "full liquid diet" list.

Kodak has an online directory of labs worldwide: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/....4.17&lc=en http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/....4.19&lc=en

If the film can was never untaped, freezing will slow the rate of change even more than refrigeration. But if the can had been opened (e.g., short ends), freezing has more risk of having ice crystals form if the film were not properly equilibrated (too humid) before being recanned. Frankly, for only a few months storage, I would recommend refrigeration.

I've just survived another two-week round of chemotherapy to slow the tumor growth along my small intestine that are sometimes causing blockage. Chemo is definitely not fun, with extreme fatigue and nausea. But as they say, "no pain, no gain". Should have at least a two week break before the next round, and based on past experience, I should be feeling alot better during the break.

There are types of "acetate" film that predate cellulose triacetate, the current base used for motion picture camera films.

Today, the most cost effective way to "blow up" Super-8 negative would be to do a HD digital transfer, and then a 35mm "film out" onto intermediate film to make the 35mm printing negative. Some labs may still offer Super-8 optical blow ups, but not many.

Kodak has some good tutorials: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/...erationsP.shtml http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/....4.15&lc=en http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en.../h247/h2407.pdf

This past week has been greatly cheered by the Easter visit of my daughter and her husband, and our first grandchild Benjamin John, born on January 12. Katie and Ben just flew back to Boston this evening. Yes, the winter weather can be unpredictable due to "Lake Effect Snow", where cold air flowing over a relatively warm lake picks up moisture, and dumps it when it cools over landfall. Rochester is at about 100-inches of total snow this year, some still this week. East of Lake Ontario, it was well over 15 feet in some locations.

AFAIK, the E100VS continues as a professional still film: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professiona....20.5&lc=en http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/acroba...00vs/ppi591.pdf

Unfortunately, the side-effects from April 3rd's IV chemo have been hard on my body. Very fatigued and lots of cramps.

If you already own the camera, always best to shoot tests in the format you intend to use, as then you can really judge sharpness and grain. A few feet of each test scene won't use much film.

Usually best to use the correction filter, especially if you are off in overall exposure, which could produce a contrast mismatch.