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Philip Forrest

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Everything posted by Philip Forrest

  1. Hoods may already exist. Which lenses are you wanting to shade? Phil Forrest
  2. Bolex motor is sold. Feel free to make me offers on any other gear in the ad. I'm trying to lighten the collection this year and want to eventually pare it down to "just" three 16mm cameras and a handful of lenses. Currently, I have shelves of this stuff that I'm looking to send along to someone else. Phil Forrest
  3. Watch out running that old film. I've found that old Kodachrome emulsions like to flake inside cameras, leaving the gate to be cleaned judiciously, and leaving the film chamber dusted with tiny emulsion flakes, like a bad form of glitter that has the ability to turn to concrete. The REX 4 should definitely be sent out for service then used. Awesome cameras, nice lenses. All good users. Phil Forrest
  4. I came to 16mm from a career as a still photojournalist, so I get where you're coming form with regard to photography techniques. Regarding aperture, f/5.6 is still f/5.6 etc., no matter what format you shoot. The thing that changes it is the reflex prism of the REX camera. You'll have to compensate by reducing your ISO on your meter. For that Kern zoom lens, find a C.R.I.S. adapter so you can use silver oxide batteries that have a longer life than the horribly expensive Wein cells. If you want, you can build one yourself with a diode to reduce the voltage to the proper level. You can use your K mount lenses on the Bolex, but you're going to want to have a turret lock when you use it. The camera may already have one as it has that big zoom on it. It looks like a C mount cap with a red circle on it and a knob on the back that locates the turret snugly into the body, preventing the weight of heavier lenses from dragging the turret down. You can find a number of K mount or M42 mount to C mount adapters out there but the very best I've ever seen are the old Novoflex ones. Maybe even new Novoflex ones for that matter. I have one for a Nikon F mount to Leica M and it is fantastic. No messing around with registration distance and lens collimation to ensure focus. It is just precise. There is probably a K to C mount adapter made by Asahi or Honeywell. I've seen a Bolex brand M42 to C mount adapter, I think I have one as a matter of fact somewhere... Probably to use old Contax/Praktica SLR lenses. You won't want to use a mask in the filter holder for cropping since it is too far away from the film plane and will probably leave quite diffuse edges. Surely others here with more experience than I have will chime in. Phil Forrest
  5. I bought a Filmo 70-KRM with one of these built into the door. It was placed there by a 3rd party years after the camera was made. Phil Forrest
  6. Be careful with threading anything in there, and try to use a filter or adapter with a brass ring, like B+W or Heliopan. I know that might be a big investment just to take a chance on a filter but if you use aluminum and the thread pitch or depth is wrong, the metals may bind up, nearly permanently. Then you're stuck using destructive methods (hacksaw, files, dremel) to remove the ring and those fine metal chips can scratch the lens as well as get into the focusing helical. Don't give up, just take your time and find the correct adapter to use. The friction-fit series adapters work pretty well as long as you're not hanging anything too heavy off of them. Phil Forrest
  7. If it's a very fine thread, it is just part of the lens construction and not meant to hold a filter in. My C-Mount 50mm, 25mm, and 10mm Schneiders are all like this. The fine threads hold in the beauty ring and the optical cell. I've seen the same on older lenses for still film cameras in various formats. Before manufacturers established a thread pitch standard with standard widths, every company did things their own way and either used slip-on filter/hood adapters or used a proprietary ring to adapt series accessories. I know Schneider made a few of these in the 50s and 60s, and I recently looked at the price of one, from a shop in Hong Kong selling it. I could buy another lens for what he was asking. Good luck in your search. Phil Forrest
  8. This is an 8mm camera and it's either proprietary or D mount. You can only adjust the aperture of this lens, it does not have the ability to adjust focus. You may be able to get one lens element out from the back with a spanner but it may not budge. I'd say clean the front and the back, make sure the aperture moves smoothly then go shoot. Phil Forrest
  9. Good that you got the crank removed and are figuring out the mechanism. I was curious about how this would end up. The Filmo model 70s are made to be fixed. Much easier to work on and more reliable. The motors don't run as long as a 240 but they are way quieter. Really professional cameras that can withstand whatever is thrown at them. I have a 240 around here somewhere I should dust off. Phil Forrest
  10. Was it not made for a press on Series VI adapter? Phil Forrest
  11. That is awesome, Webster! Makes me want to grab a Filmo and blast through a roll at 64f/s. That footage is great and it shows us all how incredibly stable the Filmos are! Phil Forrest
  12. The yellowing is usually only very slight and you won't see it in the images due to the camera accounting for white balance. Repairing it isn't too hard or expensive. It would probably be well worth the cost, unless the lens is cosmetically ugly. The aluminum barrels of these don't age well as they get pitted and dull gray with age. It is a really good lens though as far as its performance. Phil Forrest
  13. Both f/1.4 and f/1.9 Cine-Ektars are very good lenses. Phil Forrest
  14. Angenieux 17-68 Sold. I have an Elmo C-300 Super 8 / DS 8 camera for sale as well. Don't have the DS8 magazine. Camera works but I have never used it for filming. Make me an offer. Make me offers on any of the gear in the first ad as well. Consolidating and moving soonish so i want to cut down on a lot of stuff. Phil Forrest
  15. If you still have the screw and any hardware that goes underneath it, put a very small amount of nail polish on the threads and screw it back in. If it actually broke off and a piece is still stuck in the center shaft, just consider that a parts camera and get another. Phil Forrest
  16. For a smaller tank that is a touch wider than a 5G bucket head over to a car parts store and find one of the round oil drain containers. Mine has a spin-on lid and a hole in the center of what is a weak funnel. This option also has a drain off to the side. Phil Forrest
  17. Do some google searching for lens design, crown glass, flint glass, refractive index, raytrace. Focal point, nodal point. Go down the rabbit hole. Phil Forrest
  18. Only some rays would pass through the lens at the aperture but you wouldn't have a real convergence. You're creating a lens that will not draw a sharp image at all since the 28mm nodal point is very different than the 18mm nodal point. It won't focus, even if you could swap the front groups. What you might try instead is get a Kodak Retina Reflex and swap lenses around on that. All of the optical groups between the leaf shutter and the film plane are the same and all the groups in front of the shutter are designed to work with them. The rear optical unit has its own focal length and nodal point. Designing the front optical units to work with them is how they did it. You could do it with the rear of the 18mm Nikkor, but you have to have a lens design in mind, have to know what kind of glasses you're using and where, have a raytrace program, and then you'll be able to see what your aberrations will look like. Try not to destroy those nice Nikkors. Get some bargain basement lenses or garbage lenses from a thrift shop, take them apart and see what they do. Phil Forrest
  19. I'm thinning the herd of my collection by quite a bit, and have the following 16mm gear for sale: Bell & Howell Filmo: 70A with Taylor Hobson 1" f/3.5. This camera has been converted to run 1R film by machining the film sprockets and by removing one pulldown claw from the shuttle. I plan on replacing the sprockets with 1R versions this week. Shutter assembly has been cleaned and lubed. This camera runs well at 16 frames/second, as the friction felt in the governor has disintegrated in the last 90 years, so 8 f/s isn't available. Viewfinder in the door is clear, clean and bright. The lens is in very good condition, clean, no scratches, no fungus, good aperture blades. Camera includes folding later style winder key. I should probably just keep this one because it is that much fun. Point and shoot 16mm. $100. 70E. This camera has been converted to run 1R film by replacing the film sprockets with later types and by removing one pulldown claw from the shuttle. The viewfinder in the door is clear, clean and bright. This camera runs strong and consistent for 56 seconds at 16 frames/second. Camera includes folding winder key. $125. 70DL that has been converted to 70DR. This camera is the chassis of a 70DL that has had the shutter front plate and assembly changed to a later 70DR. This shutter plate is the type with a slip-in filter slot. Turret is the proper 70DR geared turret with the cutout notch for the filter. Film door is 70DR. Finder is very clear, clean, and bright. Camera runs strong and steady for 55 seconds at 16 frames/second. This camera has an interesting 1/2" alloy plate attached to the base which adds an additional 3/8" tripod socket as well as the 1/4x20. Camera includes folding winder key. $100. Kodak K-100 Turret. This camera is amazing and just keeps going. It runs for 1:39 at 16 f/s, and 1:11 at 24 f/s on a full wind. The clockwork is very stable through the whole run. The viewfinder has some flecks of dust inside but for composition is still very bright and clear. There is some superficial chrome pitting on the turret but otherwise the camera is in great shape. I'm selling it with the 25mm and 50mm viewfinder objectives, as well as a proper cap for the other objective port. I will sell this with two K100 C mount caps and one generic. I would prefer to sell this camera with a trio of lenses, **15mm f/2.5 Cine-Ektar, **25mm f/1.9 Cine-Ektar II, and **50mm f/1.4 Soligor TV lens (lens descriptions below.) $140 camera only, $280 with lenses. Somewhere around here I have a Bell and Howell 240 (not EE). This is a C-mount camera. This ugly beast runs strong and loud for over a minute at 24 frames/second. Viewfinder is good. Loop former works well. No corrosion. It's really clean, just not my cup of tea. $45. Lenses: Angenieux 17-68mm f/2.2 Reflex. This lens is in amazing condition with proper front and rear caps, and series filter adapter. Reflex viewfinder is in very good condition. Everything adjusts properly, nothing too tight or loose. Lens is clean and clear. Small amount of dust inside, no scratches, marks or fungus. Aperture is good, no oil on the blades but still has clicks. Single coated. I used this with the Filmo 70E (above). $165. Bell & Howell Super Comat 1" f/1.9.,C-Mount. This is the older version that could fit inside a ping pong ball. Tiny lens in good shape. Focus is smooth but has a touch of helical thread lash. Aperture is good, still clicks. Glass is clean and clear of fungus or marking but there is a bit of dust. Single coated. End of the barrel, where the threads are is slightly dinged up but it doesn't affect mounting Series IV adapters. $35. Wollensak Cine-Raptar 1" f/1.9, C-Mount. Also a very small lens and incredibly well built. Focus is nice and smooth but a touch on the tight side. Glass has a bit of dust but is otherwise prefect. Single coated. Aperture is smooth with no clicks. Blades are good but every other blade has a smear of oil. $35. **Kodak Cine-Ektar 15mm f/2.5, S-Mount w/ S-C adapter. This lens is a really good shooter. All of the Cine-Ektars up to 50mm have rare-earth glass and this one is not an exception. It is slightly yellowed as a result but the image it draws is very sharp with nice falloff. Glass has dust but is otherwise perfect. No fungus or marks. Single coated. Focus action is very smooth and precise. Aperture ring is smooth with no clicks. This lens comes with an aftermarket S-C mount adapter. The C mount threads on this adapter are tight but once seated properly, this does not effect the lens performance. NOTE: THIS LENS CANNOT BE USED ON REFLEX BOLEX. $85. **Kodak Cine-Ektar II 25mm f/1.9, C-Mount. This lens is not pretty but it draws a fantastic image. The alloy barrel is discolored from age, so it's dull aluminum. Lens focusing is smooth but a bit tight. Rare earth glass is slightly yellowed. Glass has a bit of dust but is otherwise in excellent condition. No marks or fungus. Single coated. Aperture clicks are still there and the aperture blades are clean and in good condition. $55. Kodak Cine-Ektar 25mm f/1.9, S-Mount. Lens is in very good condition. Glass has no marks or fungus but does have some dust. Rare earth glass is slightly yellowed. Single coated. Focus is smooth. Aperture moves smoothly with no clicks. I actually prefer this one to the Ektar II, as I think the handling is better. Both are great shooters though. This lens does not come with an adapter but I could possibly sell one, if needed. $60. **Soligor 50mm f/1.4 Television lens, C-Mount. Lens is in overall good condition. Small amount of dust inside but otherwise clear with no fungus. Front element has some edge coating marks plus a very fine scratch towards the outer edge. Multi-coated. It draws a very nice image and I used it for quite a bit on my GX85. Focus is buttery smooth. Aperture has positive clicks. Aperture blades are clean. $50. MST Perfectone motor for Bolex REX4/5. 24 frames/second, 60hZ, 12v. This motor came with my camera, with no cords nor battery pack. It looks like one of the mounting screws is missing as well. I have no way to test it, so I'm throwing it out there for $100 OBO. I can entertain offers for any or all of the above stuff. I'm located in Philadelphia, PA and can arrange local pickup within reason. If anyone wants me to shoot some stills with the lenses for sale, I can do that upon request. I'll send along and post images of the gear for sale as I get time to do so. I'm still slogging through the last week of my Masters Degree, so I don't have much time to set up lights and take product images. I prefer to ship to the lower 48 states but we are an international community, so I'm open to shipping overseas as well. Shipping will be via USPS Priority Mail with full insurance, tracking, and signature confirmation. All prices include shipping to CONUS. Thanks all. Phil Forrest
  20. My K100 turret is incredibly stable and runs really long. I haven't used an accessory motor, only the internal spring wound motor. Phil Forrest
  21. That's great footage, Roger. Thanks for your service. I was a Navy combat photographer with the Seabees during our initial invasion of Iraq and a year after. Did a deployment to Fallujah in the fall of 2004. Good to see another military cameraman here. Phil Forrest
  22. I think I was mentioning it on goodwill because that is a place to look. I saw a Sachtler ENG setup go for a couple hundred bucks there last year. But since I didn't see the model of the Vinten heads, although shipping was insane because the trio were like 20lbs total, I'll send you this link. https://lmgtfy.com/?q=+heavy+duty+tripod+head Phil Forrest
  23. A trio of Vinten heads just went for like $60 on goodwill a couple days ago. Phil Forrest
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