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  1. Hello everyone, If this has been covered in a previous post please link, I was unable to find much on a few cursory searches. I am requesting advice or suggestions for a good lab who I can send Super 8 cartridges to for processing, telecine, and most importantly good quality post and colour grading. I am based in the UK (London). Normally I rely on someone local who hand-process the film and does all the post for me. I have always been very happy with his work, but I'm interested to see what kind of results I can get from a 'lab'. I am aware of Andec in Berlin ( andecfilm.de ) and the S8 Reversal Lab in the Netherlands ( super8.nl ). Though I have no experience with their service or even if they provide a Grading/Post service. Anyway, I am requesting suggestions, based on experience, of good labs. I'm happy to ship internationally NY, LA etc. for good results. Ideally it would stay EU though. Keep in mind, I am not seeking cinematic quality, for me the decision to use Super8 has always been a point a shoot, in camera, portable film format, so I am not seeking perfection. My main concern is over levels of noise and uneven exposures which I feel might be remedied with a higher quality transfer and greater attention to detail in the grading process (never mind my lack of attention to these details during the filming). I sincerely appreciate your advice, suggestions and shared knowledge. All the best
  2. Hi, this is Pablo Secaira from Laboratorio Abierto de Fotografía Ecuador. We are in South America. We have a project that use ten super 8 Ektachrome 100D reversal film and we need to develop this. We own an Analogue Laboratory. So we need some advises to begin the process. Is there any thing that we have to take care, or prevent before we start. And where we can purchase this chemistry near our location. If you have experience / anecdotes on this topic please share with us it would be great.. Thank you so much for your help. Pablo. LAF Ecuador.
  3. Hello everyone. I accidentally left the Wratten (85b) filter on while I was shooting with a Vision 50D in daylight. anyone could tell me what to expect? I am sure that the color temperature will be much warmer with red/yellow/orange overcast over the image. If so, there's any chance that i can slightly correct the "problem" in post prod? i've also used the automatic exposure of the camera and my biggest fear is that the image will look too much dark and underexposed to be used. Anyone with the same experience? Thanks for the attention.
  4. Hey all, hoping someone can give me some advice. I've just purchased my first super 8 camera...a Nizo 801 Macro. I shot my first film on it over the last few days whilst in Namibia. I've read everywhere that shooting at 24fps I should get a run time of around 2.5 minutes but as I was shooting I realised it was going down way faster. I was shooting 24fps the whole time. Ive just tested the camera without any film in and my run times going by the dial are: 18fps 1.38 mins 24fps 1.08 mins 50fps 0.34 mins Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a fault with the camera? Will the motor run quicker when there is no film in it? I also realised after getting back that I had 1.2v AA batteries loaded rather than 1.5v AA's that the user manual recommends. Also I had 1.5v light meter batteries rather than 1.3v whilst shooting in Namibia. Though when testing the motor I had changed them to 1.3v batteries. Ive just sent off the film for processing so hoping something comes out. Would really appreciate if anyone can shed some light on this! Thanks Joe
  5. Hello, (I don't have much experience in filmmaking). For a project, I am planning to make some 3d animations mixed with some digital footage. My plan is to then shoot the projection of this video in film (either super8 or 16mm). My questions are: is this doable? what kind of digital projector do you recommend? is there going to be any flickering problem? what about color balance? thanks.
  6. Hi everyone! First topic here at the forum! So I bought a really cheap and beautiful meopta camera, the Ag1 supra model. It cost like 6 € in a store in Czech Republic, so I just thought "This is almost free", and bought some film also. Been searching for a while and haven't found any info on how to load the film. Don't want to risk it because I don't really know anything about it and I was wondering if any of you guys know anything about this Here some info about the camera: A8 G1 SUPRA Amateur movie camera for 2×8 mm Super film. Lens: Mirar 2.8/12.5 mm Frontal attachments: Mirar – 0.65x (Wide angle), Openar – 2.4x (Tele) Drive: spring-loaded Counter: contact-type Speed: 18 fps, single frame Viewfinder: Galilean Manual exposure control Film sensitivity: ASA 25-400 Year of production: 1968 -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFs2XrEPcko Beautiful right? Thanks in advance
  7. Braun NIZO 6080 Super 8mm Sound Movie Camera + Original Case + Accessories Top of the line Nizo Super-8 Camera in original flight case with accessories. Comes with compendium filter kit for special effects, sound kit, uv filters, two nicad rechargeable battery packs plus charger. Schneider Macro Variogon f1.4/7-80mm lens, very sharp, has always had a protective UV filter on so no scratches. Can be used with the Schneider Ultra Wide Lens Type III. Accepts all Super 8 cartridges, silent or sound, 50ft or 200ft. Features a choice of gradual or abrupt fades and dissolves, double exposure, advanced exposure compensation metering and manual control. Fully working. Check out more images here: www.dewshi.com/films/forsale.html £250 + PP
  8. Hello I was wondering if anybody had any advice on this combination. Should I leave the filter at sunlight, I had a blue negative in the past, but I think that was from tungsten film.. Also any advice on external meter usage, would I have to make changes to it, keep it at 50 or rate it at a different iso? Thanks for looking
  9. Hi I have a canon 814 autozoom electronic and i would like to know if my camera will read a vision3, 500t as 400 asa or 250 asa ? Thank you
  10. Hi There, I recently bought a Canon Auto Zoom 318m camera from eBay. Everything on the camera works and functions as normal, however when I got some film back from development & scanning I noticed that the film was very warm/orange tinted. I wondered if it had something to do with airport security scanning as I tested the camera out while on holiday, however when I tried another reel of film the results were pretty much the same; it was as if I had put a very rich orange/red filter over the lens. The film I used was reversal Wittnerchrome 200D film which I understand is daylight balanced, so I wondered if that had something to do with it? I'm also aware that cameras have an 85 filter and I wondered if that was the issue somehow? (If it's also worth mentioning, I shot different scenes during both day and night). I'm a student and I'm fairly new to using super-8 and analogue filming and so I'm still getting to grips with the functions of the cameras and the differences between daylight and tungsten etc.; I'm basically just curious as to what might have made my film come out very orange and if its a technical problem with the camera that might need fixing. I've got some Kodak Vision3 200T film which I'd like to use soon and I was wondering if I'd see different/less orange results when shooting on tungsten; I'd like to know before I end up spending more money on another orange reel!
  11. Hello everyone I have recently owned a Nizo 4056 (so even series that 2056-3056-4080 ...) I try once and for all to interpret results for different dandruff. I will expose them and if you could guide me ... Indeed I am a little lost (and French that translates everything) The probe of the 6-pin camera reads in this order: 40, 40/64, 64/100, 100/160, 160/250, 250/400, 400/640. I can also add photos ;-) So here is what I found: Kodak Tri-x: read 250 ASA tungsten position (thus underexposed by 1/3?) Kodak 50D: read 64 ASA tungsten position (so under expose 1/3?) Kodak 500t: 400 ASA tungsten (so on display? Do nothing?) And for the Kodak 200T (vision 3) I'm less sure ... It is read 160 in tungsten so to change in daylight I do not know (correction of +1/3?) Wittner Chrome (I modified the notch to make it read like 160 otherwise it is read 250 ASA) So if you know this type of camera and have results with these dandruff or other I'm taker! thank you in advance and sorry for my english
  12. Hi I have a Nizo under the eyes with an oxidized battery (batteries) it is a 3046 and I wonder if I can see its operation with only the power cable because only a diode of the filter in the eyepiece lights up . No diode on the outside and no camera action. Maybe you have to go through the batteries? Thank you
  13. Hey guys, I recently bought a Bealuieu 4008 ZM II . It looks very nice but I havent found a cheap external battery so it´s not powered yet. But U did some modifying on it (longer zoomstick, b+w filter etc.) I als deatached the automatic diaphragm system to get a more "pure" and manual feeling. But now when I look into the viewfinder the picture is not very sharp and when I try to focus with the focus ring nothing changes --- still the same unsharp image. Also when I look into the lens an move the focus ring nothing seems to move. Its kinda sad because the Schneider Optivaron 1.8/ 6-66mm is such a good lens and i reall dont want to buy a new one or send it to repair yet. Is this normal? Has anyone of yo had a similar problem with the lens? Help would be very great Lee
  14. Hello folks :) , I recently bought a beautiful Beaulieu 4008 ZM II from the german camera museum. It´s in a great shape and was also tested by the seller, but now everytime i look in the viewfinder i see the lower half very milky and the upper half very dark, almost black. I have read in an other forum that its maybe a shutter problem , but I can open and close the shutter on the lens so thats strange.´But on the other hand i havent bought an external battery yet so i couldnt run the motor actually. And also When i look into the viewfinder theres a crooked stroke coming out of the right hand side, which also looks quite wrong for me. I´m quite a newbie in S8 cameras so any help would be SO great !!! Thank you in advance !!! Here some pictures of my beauty. ( I just removed the auto diaphragm on the lens) http://i.imgur.com/0I5tnr6.jpg http://i.imgur.com/V3EI3F9.jpg LeeHe
  15. Hi friends, I'm reversal processing Tri-X Super8 film using Dokumol (paper developer) and Dichromate/sulphuric acid bleach. My first attempts were good, but I mixed up a new batch of chemistry and now it seems that there is no shadow detail. The highlight areas are good, but the shadows all fall to complete black. I'm not sure what part of the process might be causing this. Maybe if the bleach is too strong, would that have this effect? I used a different source for the sulphuric acid, perhaps of a different concentration than previously.
  16. Hi everyone, I'm a writer doing research for a character in my novel, set in 1971. I'm wondering if there were any home movie cameras in existence during that time that had reels that filmed longer than 3-4 minutes at a time. Basically, I'm trying to write a scene where the character leaves a camera running on a table (somewhat inconspicuously) and it captures a rather shocking event. But in order for this scene to make sense, the camera would need to be recording for at least 20 minutes. My initial research has revealed that there were several popular handheld 8mm movie cameras that year, such as the Kodak M22, but most of them used standard 50 ft reels that could only capture 3-4 mins of action. I did see that there are 7" reels (400 ft) that could record upwards of 25 minutes. But these reels are huge, and I imagine not many consumers owned cameras large enough to run these reels, right? They were more film studio cameras? (And such cameras certainly wouldn't be very inconspicuous in a room, I'm guessing). Thanks in advance for your help! Cheers, Sarah
  17. Does anyone know how this camera will expose 100d and 50d? It's new to me and I can't afford a test reel right now. Thanks! - Hunter
  18. Hey! So I am really excited because I got my grandads BEAulieu 4008 ZMII for Christmas. The thing is that it hasnt been used in 15 years. He took great care of it but the batteries are not in great shape. Does anybody now about where and how to get new batteries? Or any good servicing in London as well to look over it? Any help will be appreciated. I have shot a ton on a Bolex but I'm new to 16mm! x
  19. Hello, I will be shooting on a Super8 camera, specifically the Nizo 561 Macro, with Wittner Chrome 200D Reversal Color Film. There's a few things I'd like to know so that I can get the correct exposure for every shot. 1) The Nizo camera cannot read the 200D ISO for the Wittner film...What does it default to? What should be the compensation I make using Automatic Exposure? 2) Does the Nizo recognize that it's a Daylight stock and not a Tungsten stock? If not, should I make any adjustments when I'm shooting in Daylight? What if I'm shooting in Tungsten light, should I make any adjustments? I will not be using a lightmeter and will be relying on the automatic lightmeter inside the camera. Any other tips and tricks would be appreciated! Thank you,
  20. Hello everybody. My name is Rogers and this is my first time posting on Cinematography.com Today for a school project I attempted developing Kodak Tri-X 7266 with a Fomapan R100 Kit in a lomo tank. I followed the instructions yet the project did not work well. It appears as if the whole emulsion was removed from the base of the film leaving it clear. My problem is I can't figure out at what step this happened. Would someone have any information on what could have caused this to happen? Perhaps it was during bleaching something went wrong? Also, it would be nice to understand the re-exposure part a little bit more. This was my first time so I was expecting some chaos. Thank for reading my post and to anyone who can spare some info!
  21. I develop new and expired reversal 8mm and 16mm films, black and white - ORWO (ORWO UP15, UP21, UP32), ADOX, FOMA, KODAK etc. Go to: http://www.8mm-16mm-film-developing.com/index.html I develop for Customers from all the world. I develop films exposed even 40 years ago. I happened to develop film exposed in 1965 with success! It is possible to obtain good image from such films. I specialize in the developing of such films - have decades of experience. I treat each film individually, depending on age and type of a film. I make the chemistry baths on my own, adapting to the age of the film. Of course I develop new films in the normal process also.
  22. Hi folks, I own a Porst 650 XL and Porst 1500 XL Microcomputer and was wondering about the the precision of the split viewfinders on each of them. I read the instructions which instruct me to zoom in all the was, focus zoomed in, the zoom out to a desired wider angle. When I zoom in to focus, the split finder lines up, but the split finder lines do not stay aligned upon zooming out and I guess I thought the lens should be parafocal upon zooming. Does this mean my split viewfinder is not accurate? Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks, Greg Lytle
  23. Hi I'm trying to buy my very first super 8 camera and I wonder which one would be a good choice for me! I've searched cameras and kinda narrow downed them canon 1014xl-s/1014 AZ E/814series elmo 612S-XL/1012s since i really don't know about 8mm cameras, i couldn't really choose it just looking at the specs so I searched outputs of these cameras and picked some of them I think it's beautiful shot by elmo1012s. It looks nice this looks great too. canon 1014xl-s these are shot by bolex 16mm though but you can see what kind of images i want to create no info of camera elmo 612sxl no info of camera I don't really mind about the difficulty of using camera(of course i prefer easier and simpler one though) but i want a reliable one. i don't know if i can get repair in my city ..and i think i prefer sharper look. clear and clean! I'm so thrilled to get my super8! thank you for reading it!
  24. Hello guys! How are you? I'm shooting an extra scene for my upcoming short, (here are some screenshots): https://www.findspire.com/nabil.mendes/?viewer=7yo4t98o And i've chose the Super8 mm format. It's gonna be an exterior night scene with available light (Paris is pretty well enlightened by Night), and i need some advices. Which camera is the best for my situation between these three: -Canon auto zoom 814 Electronic -Canon 514 XL-S -Nikon Super zoom 8 From my understanding, the Fim stock i need is the Kodak Vision 3 500t, am i right? Will it fit these cameras? Any advice about how to expose a Super8 camera compared to Digital? (i shoot Red mostly) Thanks guys!
  25. Hi, I have just bought my first Super 8 camera. Took a risk and got it on eBay without asking any questions (as it was cheap and the seller didn't know anything about the camera so I thought if it doesn't work out it isn't the end of the world, and hey, the worst that can happen is that it looks nice sitting on a shelf, ha). I've discovered that there should be a skeleton battery holder in the battery compartment in the handle to place four AA batteries. Unfortunately it is missing. Thought I'd check on here for some expert advice. Is this a no go now or is there any way to find these battery holders without buying a whole new Sankyo for parts/repairs and hoping to use the battery holder from it? Not something I want to do just to check if this one is even working! Any help is much appreciated. Thanks, Ray
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