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Found 21 results

  1. Sekonic L-608 Super Zoom Master Digital Incident, Spot and Flash Light Meter Priced at: $475.00 Brand New All-In-One Meter Large readable screen Very responsive and very accurate reading Designed for easy operations Zoom Range Built-in parallax-free rectangular 1°- 4° spot zoom with digital display. Combined readings of flash and ambient Percentage of flash in the total exposure Simultaneous display of flash, ambient and combined readings on the analog display Independent incident and reflected exposure compensation of +/-9.9 EV Please text if interested: 760-505-7011
  2. Hello everyone, As I consider buying my first light meter and delve deeper into the world of cinematography, there are a few questions I can't seem to find (satisfying) answers for, at least online. I'd really appreciate any help in these matters. Question 1 Why is it so important to define a camera's true native ISO. Not the marketed one but the actual real one. I've learned how to do it it but I still don't understand why I'd do it. As an example (hypothetical), let's say I'm using an Alexa and I come to the conclusion that its real ISO is 400 instead of the proclaimed 800. What am I supposed to do with that? Should I question the way the stops are supposedly distributed between shadows and highlights? Supposedly at ISO800 it's -7/+7 stops of range, did that range now move to 400? Like what's happening here? Also, does it differ from camera to camera, even if it's the same model? Or can I trust the results from tests done from people I know I trust; whether online or otherwise, for that specific model? I understand we must test, test and test. As a novice I can assure you this notion is drilled into our minds by almost every self respecting cinematographer, gaffer, DIT etc. And I am thankful for it. However can't we trust these manufacturers at least a little bit? Question 2 I took a cinematography workshop not too long ago, my first, and was introduced to light meters and how useful they are. Now that I'm about to work on my first couple of projects I can't imagine myself not using one. However. During that workshop several people had the same light meter (mostly Sekonic 858) and, surprise, not all readings were the same. From the same position on the same spot, whether reading incident light or spotting, people were getting (slightly to not-so-slightly) different readings. So here's my question, how can I tell if I can trust my light meter? I live in a country where most people don't use light meters and we don't have any kind of support to send them off to calibration. Any suggestions? In case it's essential to make sure that the light meter is reading accurately, does anyone know of someone or of a service center that does this anywhere not in the Americas? Also, has anyone ever dealt with Sekonic's service center, the one in Oman? Many thanks. Don't judge me too harshly on my trust issues :)
  3. Hey guys, I just got a light meter and I'm loving it. Where are some good places online to learn how to advance my knowledge on better using the light meter, primarily learning about LUX or FC. Thanks, Victor
  4. Hi All, I'm shooting a TVC on Sony Venice next week, and have been looking for Sekonic / X-Rite exposure charts for S-log3.cine, preferably in both Native ISO's so that I can load the data into my Sekonic L758-Cine light meter. Does anyone have any good sources for this? Cheers, Lewis Jelley Cinematographer T: +44 (0)2920 251 255 M: +44 (0)7929 174 457 13 Mount Stuart Square, Cardiff, CF10 5EE http://stormandshelter.com Lewis Jelley Cinematographer T: +44 (0)2920 251 255 M: +44 (0)7929 174 457 13 Mount Stuart Square, Cardiff, CF10 5EE http://stormandshelter.com
  5. Hi, I've got an old analogue Sekonic light meter (L-28-C2) and it was working fine earlier this evening when I was testing it outside. I then took it to another location to figure out if I will need filter for the shoot, and when I tried to use it, the needle wouldn't move at all. It is stuck at just below zero foot candles (the lowest possible reading). I know the solar cells in these analogue meters eventually wear out, but one minute it was working and 15 minutes later, nothing. Has my light meter's time come to an end or is there something else that might be wrong with it?
  6. Sekonic L-358 Flash Master Meter - Silver Up for grabs is a *LIKE NEW* Sekonic light meter. I purchased it for $309.00 and have only used it once. Comes with protective pouch, lanyard, extra lens, and new batteries in it! I am looking for $250 (USD), but I am open to reasonable offers. I will cover the PayPal fees, you pay shipping. Willing to do international sale/shipping if you are outside of the US. I've done sales on DVXuser and REDuser and can provide references upon request. I'm also willing to do a video conference to show the product and operation. Please send me a PM if interested. Thanks for your time and interest!
  7. I want to 'upgrade' my Gossen Mastersix to have incident/spot meter all-in-one and am looking at two models (for use in both stills and motion picture FILM and digital use): I'm looking at the Spectra Cine spot meter (the IV with the spot adapter) against the Sekonic 858-D Looking to get experienced user comments as opposed to buying into the marketing they have published....obv the latter is a veery new meter Thanks in advance
  8. Hi, I have been using for the past few years been using my Sekonic 508. (not the cine version) and want to upgrade. I am looking at the Sekonic L-478D-U with a 5 Degree Spot Viewfinder adapter and the new Sekonic L-858D-U. Besides having the built in 1-4 degree spot viewfinder what would also be a crucial reasoning to spend the extra $200-300 more for the Sekonic L-858D-U? Would not having the ability to do 1-4 degree spot and be stuck at 5 degrees be a deal breaker? How often do you need the 1-4 degree spot?
  9. Hello, I have added a 4008ZM4 I bought on Ebay. No lens. I tried to mount the Angenieux 8-64 from my ZM on the ZM4 but it doesn't sit properly; it is short a 1/4 rotation from the two motors sitting flush with the body. It mounts just fine on the ZM. Additionally, while the motor seems to be running fine the light meter doesn't budge. Not even when I flick the dial to TEST. The needle just stays pegged in the "low" position. There isn't a separate battery for the light meter, correct? I have an Ebay battery, that works well on the ZM. Is the battery contact that is to the right/center/toward the rear of the camera, the contact for the meter? Thank you for any thoughts you may have on these two issues. Bruce
  10. Hello everyone, I've been using my light meter for years (Sekonic 558c) and I've been researching as well for a long time and it's been really difficult to find information on how to properly use a light meter. I have tried books, tutorials, skein videos, workshops and even film school but nobody can tell me how they do it. I know light meter gives you certain information and you decide what to do with that. I know light meters and cameras can very a lot and I know how to compensate or calibrate the meter for a certain camera or gamma. I understand 18% gray, and the zone system, incident and reflected meters. But I know that aiming the meter towards the lens is not going to give me the precision that I'm looking for. Here is my example: I'm using a incident meter, I have a person sitting in front of the camera, facing the lens. I have a light source 90 degrees on the right side, easy right? If I aim the meter towards the lens it is going to compensate for the lack of light on the left side, average both sides and it will give me totally not accurate reading. If I point the light meter towards the light source (I guess is the best way to do it) It will give me a reading that is not taking into consideration the shadow on the left side, and it will be "properly exposed". I have done this for some time and I feel like even when my light meter is properly calibrated for the camera it feels a little underexposed. Is Lambert's Cosine rule affecting that light? Because if the light were aligned with the camera angle then I would have a "on the spot" reading. But in reality (the example) I have the light 90· on the side and I'm measuring towards the light. Is the light reflected from the subject affected by Lambert's Cosine rule? Do I have to compensate? I learned from photography class that when they use "Sunny 16" If the sun (light source) is behind you, you don't compensate. If the sun is on your side then you compensate bu half a stop and if the sun is against you the you open up one stop. I have been using this same compensation values with my readings and it had helped me get even better exposures. Why is this important? Well I want to be able to trust my LM and my judgment when lighting a scene, I want to be able to determine "proper exposure" and get consistent results every time so I can take it from there for more artistic interpretations. What do you think? Can you share your experience or even better your technique? Thanks in advance
  11. Hello all, Planning on doing some time lapse of clouds in the sky, summer afternoon sun, deep blue sky, well formed clouds, moderate telephoto, on Super 16mm color reversal (E 100D, dated 2009) How to measure the light with my Sekonic L-398-A? Measuring incoming light or pointing at the sky to be exposed (white dome) usually leads to underexposure. This light meter lacks spot metering. Any advice or even "rule of thumb" highly appreciated. Cheers, Christian
  12. Hello, So in this camera is the internal meter system, whereas if the meter is inbetween the "red" marks on either end it is good to shoot - basically. Now everything seems to work (I've shot 3 200 ASA Reversal rolls outside, and all are mostly dark) so it seems the meter system is not working. Now I have an external meter too, and the light is right so my question is if the light meter is not working in the Chinon, does that affect how much light it's getting to the film as well? It is a "TTL" meter system that is automatically setting the F-Stops with how much ambient light there is, meaning I cannot set the F-stops manually. If this is the case does anyone know what to do about this besides getting a different camera with manual F-Stop adjustment? Thanks for any help!!
  13. How you go about when you expose for black and white? Does an exposure for black and white differ in term of how you do your exposure and calculation with the light meter, from working in colors? Does the highlights and shadows work the same way as they work shooting in colors? Beside any color temperature consideration, how you work with your exposure when you are shooting black and white, you approach it in a very different way taking more in consideration the reflectances on the subjects? I know for instance if you apply a red filter (such as RED #23) the red object will become lighter: how does the gels and color filters work in black and white? any personal experience on making an exposure for black and white? thanks for answering to my very first post!
  14. willgething

    Bolex Exposure

    Shooting a student project on the Bolex H-16 camera, I understand that 25% of light is lost by going into the viewfinder. That means that on a normal light meter it has to be compensated for right? I will be using 250D stock, would setting the ASA on the light meter to 160 compensate for this? and then could I use the light meter as normal? Also is there any common problems or tips and tricks that might be useful for me to know before the shoot? Thanks Will
  15. Shooting a student project on the Bolex H-16 camera, I understand that 25% of light is lost by going into the viewfinder. That means that on a normal light meter it has to be compensated for right? I will be using 250D stock, would setting the ASA on the light meter to 160 compensate for this? and then could I use the light meter as normal? Also is there any common problems or tips and tricks that might be useful for me to know before the shoot? Thanks Will
  16. Just looking to see what tools each of you use in your metering the exposure of a scene. I currently use a combination of a Minolta MK.IV incandescent light meter and the waveform/histogram from the camera itself (in this digital age). I am looking to use a spot meter more for more accurate readings but I am wondering if I should throw some money down on a Minolta or Sekonic. Or just use the spot metering of my Canon 60d SLR instead. What do you find works the best in metering a scene effectively? Cheers!
  17. Hey, My name is Martijn and I study film and television in Belgium and the past year I have discovered that I'm very into cinematography. And lately I started thinking about maybe buying a lightmeter. Now I was wondering if there were any specific models that you guys would recommend a film student? And the price of a professional light meter is pretty steep but is it worth the investment? Thanks in advance, Martijn
  18. I'm selling this Sekonic light meter for $75. Ebay Listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171360860979 DOES NOT COME WITH THE DOME. A multi-function digital ambient flash meter for the working pro on location or in the studio. Features 1/10 step digital and 1/2 step analog readout, multi-directional dual pivot light receptor, memory functions, and rubberized covering. Optional 5° spot and ground glass reading receptor. This light meter is in good working condition and comes with the strap and pouch. *This light meter does not come with the white dome but does come with the lumidisc. The dome is no longer available for purchase and there is no alternative replacement. Also comes with: Sekonic Lumidisc for L-718 Exposure Meter #401-828 DOES NOT COME WITH THE DOME.
  19. Hey guys, Thank you in advance for any advice I may get. I have been striving to develop my skills as a cinematographer and recently purchased a light meter to aid in achieving consistent lighting/ lighting ratios. I have yet to get the hang of using my meter or interpreting the information. I don’t want to rely on the often inaccurate monitor for judging exposure. I was wondering if anybody had ideas on what would be some good exercises that would help me better understand my light meter and it’s readings because I feel some sort of disconnect between my readings and what my cameras set exposure. Thanks.
  20. Hi Everybody. This is my first post here but I've been looking around for a couple of weeks. All of you inspire me to join because you are very knowledgeable and helpful. So, I thought I should take advantage of that :) I just got my first super 8 camera on eBay. I put in new batteries and the camera runs at all speeds. I loaded some marked film just to make sure that the film was transporting and that also went well. However, when I put in new batteries for the light meter the indicator wouldn't move. I pressed the battery test button, put on manual mode and nothing happened. I looked in the battery compartment, even cleaned it, entered the batteries every way I could. Nothing. The indicator stayed at f1.8 at all times. To make an already long story short, I ended up banging the camera on the left side. Stupid reaction out frustration but as fate would have it the indicator moved. I banged it back and forth a little bit more and suddenly the thing worked! The battery test worked. I walked under different lighting conditions and the auto exposure seemed to be working. I set the exposure manually and it also worked. To this moment the light meter seems to be fine. Now, my questions is: What could be the cause of the malfunction? Do I need to take it to Du-All for service? Do I run a test and if it works, leave at that? What do you think guys? Thank you!
  21. Hey all, I'm a film student and i just bought a used sekonic light meter 758d. I wanted to match it with the red scarlet i'm usually using for shooting. So i set up a 18% greycard and used false colors in Redcolor3 view to match the mid grey (green color on the card). Camera was set to 640 ISO, 25 fps, 1/50, f8. After i took a reflective reading with my sekonic i found that i should set it to 320 ISO, 25fps, 180 degree, to match the f8. Anyway after turning false colors off i found the image of the greycard way darker than i expected. I also tryed to expose a skin tone on the same lighting setup (on f 5,6 to get it properly exposed) and still seemed a bit underexposed. Then i decided to try matching the light meter in Raw view. After i got green on the card with false colours turned on i swithced back to Redcolor and i had much better feeling with the image. So my first question is, am i doing something wrong to match my sekonic or is there a better or more acurate way to do it ? Second, should i match it in raw view or redcolor3 when considering, that the clipping and crashing levels are the same in both modes ? Sry for my english :)
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