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16mm to HD transfer


Bob Hoste

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Hello,

I am looking into shooting series of shorts on a Bolex Rex-5, standard 16mm camera. I have shot this before and done transfers to SD using cinelab and have loved the outcome. The new project I am starting will need to be in HD. So my question to anyone on this forum is, Have you used this before? What were your results? and any suggestions on a good lab for doing this transfer.

 

thanks,

bob

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What editing platform are you using and will you be doing any compositing or effects work with it?

 

The first HD transfers I did would be to HDCAM but now that tapes are going away and don't make much sense for non-broadcast folks anyway your easiest workflow is to external hard drive. If you are editing on a Mac pickup a FireWire 800 drive to keep your file transfer times down.

 

Generally speaking there won't be a difference in price between codecs so you can either get the highest quality (uncompressed) format or go for the smaller but still excellent quality ProRes HQ. If you are editing in a different format then you can transcode but you'll still have that high quality original transfer data.

 

If you shot full frame 16mm vs. Super 16mm, another thing to think about is if you want 1920x1080 HD and chop off the top and bottom or if you want FULL FRAME 2K (2048×1556) allowing you to do the pan & scan yourself. 2K is more expensive but gives you more control after scanning. Of course you can do a supervised session and make those decisions yourself at time of transfer.

 

Other than that, just make sure you use a good colorist that can make your film look amazing. That makes all the difference in the world.

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We use ProRes HQ and DNx175X. DPX is only used for effects work, it's just too bulky to be practical for dailies, and it doesn't have sound. For long term reliability, everything is backed up on LTO's. Don't trust those hard drives....

 

 

 

 

-- J.S.

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Also feel free to give us a shout here in Philadelphia. We can discuss specific project parameters to best suite your workflow, but have full service capability with a Spirit2 plus davinci as well as flat scans to DPX or SR (if there is stock available!!). With experience and resources in a wide gamut of work from TV to commercial to feature DI we can get rather specific with workflow and support.

 

best,

 

John-Michael Trojan

Manager of Technical Services

ShootersINC

215.861.0100

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  • 3 weeks later...
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The advertisers on this board are all extremely talented. I've used Cinelicious in LA many times and Lightpress in Seattle as well. Going rate on HD seems to be around $300 per hour (machine time, not running time) unsupervised, might be hard to get much lower than that on a Spirit, Shadow or Millennium. Remember with that price you are not only getting the top machines but some great colorists as well.

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I've been trying to contact anyone at 'ScanYourFilm.com' since the end of July, but I still haven't gotten any response. I've emailed multiple times and called them on numerous occasions to no avail.

 

I'm looking to HD san 200' of 16mm for cheap and that seemed like the best option, but now I must look somewhere else. Any recommendations for really small projects for fairly cheap price?

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I've been trying to contact anyone at 'ScanYourFilm.com' since the end of July, but I still haven't gotten any response. I've emailed multiple times and called them on numerous occasions to no avail.

 

I'm looking to HD san 200' of 16mm for cheap and that seemed like the best option, but now I must look somewhere else. Any recommendations for really small projects for fairly cheap price?

 

http://www.cinelab.com

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for your response Will.

 

So if i am looking to have the footage in a 16:9 format. When I shoot, I should generally leave it kinda wide so the top and bottom won't be effected that much during the blowup/crop process?

 

 

 

What editing platform are you using and will you be doing any compositing or effects work with it?

 

The first HD transfers I did would be to HDCAM but now that tapes are going away and don't make much sense for non-broadcast folks anyway your easiest workflow is to external hard drive. If you are editing on a Mac pickup a FireWire 800 drive to keep your file transfer times down.

 

Generally speaking there won't be a difference in price between codecs so you can either get the highest quality (uncompressed) format or go for the smaller but still excellent quality ProRes HQ. If you are editing in a different format then you can transcode but you'll still have that high quality original transfer data.

 

If you shot full frame 16mm vs. Super 16mm, another thing to think about is if you want 1920x1080 HD and chop off the top and bottom or if you want FULL FRAME 2K (2048×1556) allowing you to do the pan & scan yourself. 2K is more expensive but gives you more control after scanning. Of course you can do a supervised session and make those decisions yourself at time of transfer.

 

Other than that, just make sure you use a good colorist that can make your film look amazing. That makes all the difference in the world.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys, I want to share my experiences of such work as we do it in central Europe.

I use services of Barrandov studios, Prague, Czech Republic.

 

Last time I had 15 min. of Super16, we scanned using Spirit machine. I had good colorist at disposal and could grade every (!) shot.

I got stock scanned to HDCAM SR 4:4:4, then saved as Apple ProRes 4:4:4:4 1080p files. HDCAM version is just for backup, I´ve used ProRes in cut.

 

And for all this I´ve paid €115 (that´s about $155), without tape.

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