Sir Alvin Ekarma

If you're talking about a cheap, DIY video assist, this might work... http://www.cinematography.com/forum2004/in...00+video+assist

He gets my seal of approval. Easy to talk to, hard-working, and honest. A1!

I think I read it on one of these threads, but I think JK camera can add a 400' magazine dealie to a RX-4 (or did so at one time). Maybe by special request nowadays?

Du-all sells a battery charger/conditioner that can not only charge a battery, but also drain it as well. It worked well a/ the NiMH batteries I used w/ my Bolex EBM.

Here's a link to a DIY page for making your own battery pack... http://www.filmclass.com/scooby/ And these folks will make you a Scoopic to XLR power cable for cheeep.... http://users.aol.com/fmgp/sync10.htm

Computers will give you wiggle room, but it still comes down to timing; some people can ADR off the bat, others can't do it to save their lives.

At best it's going to look like a 60s/70s euro film, and at worst a chop sockey. You should check w/ whatever lab you'll be using, but generally you have the keycode transferred in the telecine and use Final Cut or Avid to knock out an EDL from the key codes in the offline edit, and then the negative cutter will take it from there. I've grossly oversimplified things (and left out sound in the workflow) but the lab should be more than happy to discuss things in detail. (and don't forget another forum search)

Sure. You just need to make sure that you have an exact record of what was said (or make sure the actors stick to the script relegiously) and make sure your actors not only clearly enunciate every syllable, but also slow down their speech patterns a touch.

You could use transparencies used for overhead projectors. Just whip up something in Photoshop or word and take the file to an office supply place to make the transparencies, but you may have to double up because I don't know if the black parts will be dense enough on their own. Or how about this: you could shoot a LCD computer/TV monitor? Knock something out in premiere or Final cut or photoshop, and bam! (At least I think this would work; there aren't issues w/ shooting an LCD monitor right?)

When I had my Scoopic, I accidentally ran it at 64fps w/o film and the damn thing froze up. Fortunately, it was fixable...

Olex has a K3 page w/ some nice clear pix... http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/16m...asnogorsk-3.htm

There's a v-shaped notch in the middle of the viewfinder and slightly (10-15%) to the right of that is frame center so frame things a little bit off the v to the right, you'll be okay. Do some tests so you know what to expect but you'll still have to guesstimate a touch w/ anything at the furthest right part of the frame.

My M42 lenses have a switch near the base and markings for Manual (M) and Automatic (A). Most M42 lenses have this but if they're the automatic kind w/ a pin, you need to disable that.

Yup. Standard operating procedure. Make sure the lens is set to Manual and you're all set.

I'm referring to the price quotes given by JK camera. For an s16 mod, it's a couple hundred bucks extra for a Rex 4/Rex 5 which can include optional 13x viewfinder conversion...

It doesn't have a reflex viewfinder that isn't part of the zoom lens so you'd be stuck w/ old glass and since it's one of the older Bolex models, future modification to S16 could be a hassle. I'd say wait for a rex4/rex5 or ideally an SBM.

I have the crank and it works great. The only thing I think should be added is that you'll probably need to unwind a paper clip to take off the original handle in Step 1 instead of searching for a teeny-tiny screwdrive. I went around to a bunch of jewelers and they said there wasn't a screwdriver small enough (at least not from what they had.)

www.slowmotioninc.com in Burbank, CA do conversions for a very reasonable price but you'd need to check w/ them for current pricing.

It would cost you shipping to and from, but a reputable camera place would see if the lenses are RX collimated for free (but you better drop them a line first).

For 2k, you could get a tricked out S16 Kinor (if it ever turns up again)....

www.Jkcamera.com sells FD adaptors for bolex bayonet mounts...

you can get a EBM-to-12V battery cord from Procam or Du-art and then get a cheap battery off Ebay...

There's a flv-encoder from Riva that works really. That might smooth things out a bit and it's free. http://www.rivavx.com/?encoder

Du-all is the usual answer. They did the pro-upgrade for my K3 and it works fine.

If you want to see something that saw a theatrical release and was shot not only on R16, but using a wind-up Bolex Rex5 (for most of it; reshoots and added footage were on 35mm-- it's a long story), you should check out the critierion dvd of EQUINOX; the film was put together in the mid 60s by a bunch of folks who went on to do Star Wars, etc. In any case, it looks really, really good. Sharp and crisp and you'd swear it was 35mm.