jacob thomas

When I go to the forum page it comes up with a dialogue box with the text "Enter username and password for "FORUM TEMPORARY DOWN" at http://www.filmshooting.com" So I'd guess the forum is temporarily down. ;)

I think you might be surprised by the small size of the 4008, especially if you recell the internal battery it's quite compact. A better option might be to buy a small c mount prime or two for minimal size. I think I remember one of the forum members using a 10mm Angenieux prime. Once you've used the 4008 you might not want to use anything else.

Perhaps because they are seen as advertising. When they contain more than just listings of what is in the mag I think they are a useful resource. But if it's just a plug for the mag perhaps the classifieds section would be more appropriate.

Perhaps you should read the ebay rules a bit more carefully: Can I retract or cancel my bid Invalid bid retraction This isn't a forum for discussing ebay's rules (which you broke). The seller has no way to "extract" the final bid amount from the second place finisher all they can do is offer it to them and the second place finisher is free to accept or reject the offer. The only person contractually bound to buy the item for the amount specified is you. :blink:

Which is more unethical you backing out of a purchase with no good reason or a seller trying to realize the value that their item reached at auction? Or do ethics only apply to other people? :rolleyes:

pCine & pCam from DavidEubank.com

Autom B is for time exposures. IMHO it's worth spending the extra $30 for. Do a search on youtube for time exposure. As far as 801 vs 561 both are pretty nice cameras if you really have to save the money get the 561, Michael is probably going to chime in and say that the 801's lens is slightly better than the 561'... Both the 561 and the 801 require mercury or their replacement zinc oxide batteries.

Shot with a Nizo Pro on Tri-X see The Other Forum

I had a similar experience with cinelab last year, I asked how long it would take in advance (quoted three days for process and transfer) and paid for the fastest most expensive shipping, then waited more than two months for it to arrive. And when it did the telecine was not stunning to say the least.

It does take 'any C-mount' lens (as long as the rear element doesn't protrude beyond the mount, luckily this is the case with all of the c-mount lenses I've used). It can also take slr and cinema lenses via an adapter.

Why not try an anamorphic adaptor designed for shooting 16:9 on a 4:3 camera, this will give a 1.33 squeeze resulting in a ratio very close to 1:2.35. (1.33 x 1.66 = 2.20 or 1.33 x 1.78 = 2.35). I think there is a thread about this on one of the forums here...

Do a forum search there is a thread where the lovable Santo describes his use of a century wide angle adapter on the 10mm cinegon. IIRC the may be a wide angle adapter designed to go with the 16mm c-mount version of the Schneider Cinegon 10mm lens but perhaps I am confusing it with the Switar one.

The kinoflex/quartz is not really C mount. It has a "C mount" but as there is a prime lens behind it the only lens likely to work is the zoom that comes with it. I think what Lenny means is that most SLR lenses can be adapted to M42 (via an adapter). Assuming you don't already have a lot of 'pentax' screw mount lenses (m42) why don't you get a C Mount to Nikon or Canon or whatever lens system you already have and have one less adapter. As far as focal planes etc are concerned that is what the adapter is designed to do – i.e. attach the lens so that it works. ;)

Beaulieu 2008, 3008, 4008, 5008, 6008, 7008, 9008 (all c mount) Leicina Special (m mount) (Nalcolm FTL 1000 [m42 mount with very rare adapter]) The Beaulieu 4008 would be your best bet as it takes C mount lenses and is one of, if not the best camera in the format.

Are you crazy? Why all the pissing around dreaming about obscure equipment and films? You've got a great camera now go make a film... :blink: If you just have to shoot anamorphic get a cheap camera (Kinoflex/Quartz are not as bad as most say they are) with a small lens and try to find a cheap anamorphic to match. Then enjoy all the aggravation of shooting with a anamorphic setup, and then when you come crying back to the 814XL-S she'll be waiting patiently for you. ;)

Here's the DoF tables from Lenny Lipton's Independent Filmmaking: And from The Super 8 Book also by Lenny Lipton:

Actually all that is available... Custom Upholstery for barneys. The Film Group among others for crystal sync.

I think I've seen a beaulieu intervalometer mentioned here but I have yet to ever see one for sale anywhere, I would guess for the price it would fetch you could probably get a Nizo/Bauer/Eumig... If you wanted the "best" time exposure camera maybe look out for a Leicina Special and the electronic control module (quite often on ebay). Super 8 Wiki is not bad and has collected most of the information from previous encyclopedic websites. Check out Jurgen Lossau's book for more info and your coffee table. "Movie Cameras: the international guide"

Your total exposure on the non ghostly elements should add up to the correct exposure. So if it's just a room with a ghost walking around in it you expose one stop less than your meter says (as nick said) each time. If you want to have non ghost characters moving around as well it gets more complicated and perhaps it would be easier to use the classic reflection method ("Pepper's Ghost")

Some cameras had a limited double exposure capability of about 90 frames (e.g. Canon 1014 AutoZoom, Beaulieu 4008ZM2 [with declutch button and rewinder accessory]). There were also cart rewinding devices made. See Rewinding You could also break the cart and take the film out after the first exposure and reload the film in a reloadable cart as in they did in the Other Half. Alternatively you could do this effect in one exposure with a reflection of the ghost. Do some research and you'll find more info on all of these options. :angry:

Did you test the occasionally mentioned Zeiss GS8? Were there any cameras/lenses left out of the test that you would have liked to include?

:rolleyes:

Don't forget to take into account the light lost to the viewfinder prism (1/3 - 1 stop). (Where's Terry Mester when we need him... :rolleyes: )

I think I know what you are talking about. Sometimes when you zoom out after focussing the top and bottom halves of the rangefinder are no longer perfectly aligned. However I don't think you need to worry about it, I've followed the instructions in the manual for setting the viewfinder diopter and zoom right in to focus and haven't had any focus problems in my shots yet. (Perhaps this is thanks to the huge depth of field of the super 8 format, but I've always assumed that the slight shift was just one of the idiosyncrasies of the 1014XL-S.) I know this doesn't help but... if you really need a perfect viewfinder get a Beaulieu with full ground-glass viewfinder (and then have it serviced and laserbrightened by Bernie O'Doherty). The ground-glass viewfinder in the 4008 is imho the best of any s8 camera.

If using tungsten film the switch controls whether the filter is in place. Put the switch at the sun setting if shooting in daylight (this engages the 85 filter), if shooting in tungsten light push the unlocking button and slide the switch to the bulb setting (disengaging the 85 filter). If using daylight film the switch has no effect (the 85 filter is automatically disabled).