Adrian Sierkowski

You are of course welcome to my Fuji if you need.

Honenstly I think I would go with a menace arm/ Speedrail or a JR Boom. I feel the cost/benefit of a max mini just isn't really there. The Max will take the weight of the head and little snoot; it's 1/2 the rated working weight; but honestly it is something I would feel much more comfortable hanging a lite-mat on.

I wonder if something with an electronic shutter might not be better as there are no real moving parts?

The only type of light I could think of owning would be a light you use on every single set. Something specialized to you-- like a ring light, or obie type system. Maybe a set of titan tubes or Helios? or the odd Litemat. Many folks I know keep those smalls that can fit in a closer handy. In times past, something like a Kino Flo Car kit, (or currently the mini Litegear light sticks) were often owned by a Dp or a gaffer and then rented for a kit fee. Another very useful thing to have is an assortment of practical globes-- I really love these 11W 130V sign bulbs that render wonderfully in lamps. But big units-- no; no thank you. Personally the only light I have is a a single helios tube, which is generally use to test out my wireless DMX/FXs and stuff on a small scale, or for a work light. I might get something like a MC light pro kit (that has CRMX) or maybe some astera bulbs-- but again, nothing that couldn't fit in a Fiat 500....

If you have an Ipad the program Lighting Designer (LD https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lighting-designer/id511366142) Can be very helpful in not only making up lists, but also in showing an overhead plot to producers. Some (not so great) examples from my own stuff. Also helpful to plot out DMX, when you get into that world. Also Apps such as SunPlan are vital on scouts to get solar positions for time and dates. If you want to start getting crazier, you can get into programs such as capture and a lighting console (I use blackout) to start doing rough previs for producers. With capture you can really start to get an idea of outputs at distances but I personally find it VERY annoying to work with. notoplight1.mp4 toplight.mp4

You know it's times like this where I would consider using a respectable DSLR and renting an underwater housing for it; just incase. https://www.lensrentals.com/rent/ikelite-dl-housing-for-canon-eos-r5-mirrorless That's just an example, of course.

Better safety nets and cheeses. Very important. Looks like we are going with Elation Monets for the FX. I messed around in Capture (not that I know what I'm doing) and the highers liked the look. notoplight1.mp4 And this is the very prelim lighting plot: (some things will probably change). Like loosing the Dynos for a 1200D through a 20x20 top that stills is providing for their work/ budget.

I think the client would prefer the Rosco version over me robbing some Victorian spinsters household windows. Great find on the Rosco! (Hope you have been well my friend)

Love this idea. Also, can hold sides for the day!

I think projector would be out of budget for anything large enough /bright enough. We need the rays of light to come from top as a backlight. Something like this. That's the America dj version but when we add in the 40' translite bg and 12x20 softbox for key I think the poor little American DJ light will be washed to nothing lol

Hey All. I'm working on a spot sometime next week which is doing an "under the sea" look with beams of light through haze for the caustic/water FX. I"m trying to get an idea of the best sources to make such an effect. Shooting on Alexa, we have a head-to-toe wide of talent in a Botticelli venus pose. I will want to control the heads via DMX via Blackout and ideally have dim-abilities. The best I'm coming up with currently are Elation Artiste Monets, as they seem to be a good output for the wattage/LED (so I can dim as need be) but as I'm very unfamiliar with moving heads / concert style lighting I wanted to see if anyone had any advice. My other option would be a Clay Paky Scenius but I worry that it might be too bright (can they be dimmed? the spec sheet says it's an HMI so I'm not sure?) I also keep seeing American DJ IRPro Water Projectors, but I am aware this is more a consumer brand, so I also worry about output as 80W LED. I wish I could show you the brief, but NDA and all that. Any advice would be much welcome.

As far as I know no black magic has any stabilizer

It's kept mattebox makers in business for years! Wanna look pro; put on a mattebox! And a few antenna here and there. They don't even need to do anything.

Technologically though; if they shot at 50HZ/25P/180Deg then that would mitigate most, if not all, flicker issues; correct?

Used both. Get the 300. The c70 is fine, but it really isn't worth the price and the lack of sdi is very annoying. I don't hate it, but it isn't what I would grab for anything but the smallest of gigs

I think the best if you going right to rec709/2020 is going to be the canons. Sony is better in low light and I prefer they're ergonomics but slog can be.....a thing. Bm is really nice to look at but quality control, robustness of build, and matching are a bit of concern. I think of them all, the canon might not be the most revolutionary, but it's a robust system. I would personally reach for a Sony because I'm much prefer the ergonomics; and that's about it.

12x12 is in feet; it's a large frame, 4x4 is 4ft by 4ft, and 410 / 251 (what I meant to type) are diffusion gels (opal and 1/4 white respectively) The 12x12 might be full grid or maybe bleached muzz; both diffusion fabrics. Also yes makeup is a huge factor, as is overall production design of cool v warm tones

Where it me I'd use a large 12x12 frame of something for the over all lighting and then from the same side a an unit though a 4x4 of 410 or maybe 250.

That is how I prefer to do it when reading.

Dbl post

I use either meter, but I tend to incident and cover. Though my meter (zoom 508) has a retractable dome; others have an interchangeable disk. Numbers were just an example; experiment. It might well be a 2:1 ratio (e.g the "shadow" is a 2.8 and the "bright" is a 4) Also I'm sure she was lit with frames of diff to help spread. (Maybe a beauty dish?) She also is being filled in by her environment/show card/many other things than 2 lights more than likely. If you look at the setups for typical glamor magazine photography you can get an idea if what's around her to fill in under chin. There are very many diffusion filters. I would start with a promist personally, but that would be something to really test.

Hope this makes some sense The lighting for the highlights is over exposed relative to the "shadow" side of the face that you would expose for. Note the numbers are arbitrary. You need to meter you key/fill/kicker and background lights separately. In this case we are exposing for our "fill" so that the key light over exposes and blooms (probably helped by a diffusion filter as well because female talent)

It's noting to do with the background. It's about the key and fill sides of her face. The background is irrelevant to what you are trying to achieve on her face. Though you would want it as bright as your exposure so she doesn't disappear into darkness. Let me try to whip up a visual

That's your problem, that's taking an average reading and exposing everything to average out. What you would really want would be for your highlight side to be overexposed by two, three or four stops and your Shadow side to be at your exposure level. For example; Shadow @2.8(your exposure set at 2.8) and highlights reading at a 5.6 or 8 even then you'll push the highlights higher in post. you could also keep shadow at a 2, expose at 2.8 and highlights at a 5.6/8 for a little bit 2 contrast

Sounds like you're lighting flatly... You'd want to set up a nice overall exposure, your base, beauty stuff, and then over-expose just one side of the face. You say you are "under" and "over" exposing; but what is your contrast ratio? What are you reading for your high-light and your mid, and your shadow off of your meter? And, then, what are you setting your exposure based on?