JD Hartman

Might try RonDexter dot com, lots of ideas there.

Rent what you can't own, or is transportation the bigger issue?

Outside, I'd prefer a 12x speedrail frame, especially if there is any wind

You could try building a cyc, fail and try again or you could look for a studio with a one or two wall hard cyc. A studio cyc often comes with the benefit of being pre lit.

That should work, if you use the ears as connectors or buy additional counnectors. My question, do you need the ease or portability of the 6' frame stock, as 1x1" aluminum square tube isn't that expensive? If you were to buy four pieces of 20' aluminum, after cutting you'd have tubes for two frames, one 8x8' and and one 12x12. Greater versatility.

Maybe Tyler is trying to make a distinction between renting several cameras for a shoot where they will be operated by others, renting a camera where you are operating on a shoot and owning and operating you own equipment on a shoot. Each brings a differing level of knowledge to a project.

Had you considered contacting Kodak to ask what type of film would have been loaded into these carts?

Lets look on FleaBay....using 16mm film cartridge as the keywords. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2487218.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC2.A0.H0.X16mm+film+cartridge.TRS1&_nkw=16mm+film+cartridge&_sacat=63821 Not so rare and none in "sold" listings.

IMHO having worked for a supplier of mil./government hardware.... If these mags were manufactured for any of the branches of the US military they'd have a part# on them and possibly a contract #.

I wouldn't be advocating DIY submersible lights of any voltage on a public forum. For the same sort of reasons, any discussion of electrical tie-in is banned on Control Booth dot com. Not just tie-ins with Trico clips, any sort of tie-in other than with camloks and a house bull switch is forbidden.

A link to what you are talking about. A simple google link returns too many hits. Wait, is it this: https://www.hudsonspider.com/ This type of statement always impresses me: AIRCRAFT GRADE ALUMINIUM CONSTRUCTION , now would that be 6000 or 7000 series Aircraft Grade Aluminum?

Okay, were talking a pool here, so immerse your hands in water, go outside, throw up the bonnet on your car and grasp the battery terminals. Should be okay, it's only 12VDC. People can and do get electrocuted by auto batteries, lucky ones survive with severe burns. Have the ambulance crew take and post pictures, should you be unable.

No, I'm contending that enough current at 12VAC will kill you just as easily as the same current at 480VAC. https://www.physics.ohio-state.edu/~p616/safety/fatal_current.html DIY: flags, frames, grip gear, etc, not underwater lights.

No one book.... Painting with Light, John Alton

It's not the voltage that kills you, it's the current.

You can rent Hydroflex fixtures which are waterproof Par64's. Use silly floating candles if you wish.... Perhaps some artfully designed floating islands with concealed fixtures (powered from GFI circuits of course).

Enough zombies already walking the streets of NYC and riding the subways mesmerized by games, FacePlant, movies, Twitter, etc., etc on their phones. Oblivious to the world around them. We don't need holo-phones. I saw a women kick I guy in the ass because he stopped abruptly on the steps in front of her to check his phone. Two swift kicks with her pointy shoes right up his ass. I applauded. She had someplace to be and time was important to her. I have places to be as well.

Do you have a source for the clip-on (squeeze connectors) for the tubes? Regular tombstones won't work for this sort of application.

Does (window) screening exist in 6' widths? Don't think so, so any seam would be visible as a dark stripe Have you priced the cost of simply renting a 6x double net, it should be within your budget. You might try using the spun fabric off the bottom of a boxspring. That's an old trick and similar to the gel "Tuffspun", but as with the fabric store netting, it will obscure the view. Can you shoot at a more favorable time of day?

Use the search function. It's been discussed at least once with images of the lights/hardware used.

Okay, maybe BART is smooth and Japanese rail too, but not so any other railway system I've been on. Certainly not any period train. People will expect some movement and lack thereof makes it more difficult for viewers to suspend reality. I'd be more concerned with the logistics of setting up and lighting a green screen in a museum. Will you be able to get it far enough away from the car to minimize spill into the interior and reflections from the shiny interior surfaces. Are you shooting at the NYC Transit Museum or elsewhere?

When is the last time you rode a commuter train? All trains shake and sway, even Amtrak. A vintage rail car, running on track where there is a rail joint every 39' feet would certainly display constant if small motion, as would the passengers.

The paper is too thin to die or tint and become opaque. As already suggested, cover with Duvetyn, Commando cloth, black wrap or black plastic. If your trying to produce a directional soft light, a Mole 1k zip might be a better choice.

Dom Jaeger, I don't expecting you to give a full lesson on timing the film pull down claw and shutter, but do they get out of synchronization once set? Wouldn't this indicate some damage or mishandling of a film jam? Possible signs of a larger problem that needs to be addressed first?

Or if the downlights, pot lights, recessed fixtures have medium base sockets, use them with tampons as mounting points for additional lights.