Stephen Williams

2c's went to 80 fps, I think upto 100 is no problem. With the 435 you can use old mags for 120 fps.

Looks fine, not sure if it was a bargain or not!

IIRC 1 or 2 of the lenses in the set were about 1/4 to 1/3 stop slower than they should have been.

If only that were true, if you test a set of SS, some but not all of the set are as fast as they say.......Even when new!

I would not go past 8 or 8/11 on S35.

Canom K35's are sharper than Super Speeds wide open & they will flair, give them a try. Shooting at 12 fps will be fine if nothing is moving in frame.

A 50mm lens is always a 50mm lens, which on S35mm Film cameras / RED / Alexa / 7D will be a slight telephoto, a 'standard' lens on all of thease is about 32mm. For the last 30 years a 'standard' set of primes has been 18 - 85mm

You could actually see focus, which is IMHO one of the main things that needs to be checked. SD rushes was a huge step backeards.

I don't think anybody ever did think rushes in B&W were an accurate representation of what is on the negative, in any case colour print stock was limited to about 7 stops, rushes on video 10 years ago ahowed even less! Optical printing was used to change frame rate, adjust frameing & would generally increase contrast. You choose the DOP as you trusted he knew what he was doing with lighting, the operator would frame the shot, no video assist! It's amazing people managed without help from video village! Too many people get confused by looking at a small screen & just make a show that looks good on TV rather than a big screen.

It's only rushes, not a graded print! Of course you could not adjust saturation easily like today, 3 lights that was it!

Dalies would likely have been screened early in the morning the following day, picture only without sound. I never heard of any synced dalies, no time & no point! There is a good chance that the 1st take was in color & the rest in B&W. As dalies are a print everything is the right way round!

Zurich is far more reliable for overcast weather!

There are a huge no of Emmy's it does not mean anything.

No you don't, just record it's only a file!

If everything is set up then measuring, fowever Back Focus is adjustable so looking 1:1 just to confirm when you do your tests is a good idea.

Exposures of 1/500 will be a problem with small tungsten lights (2k or less) & HMI's may well arc. Anything over 96 / 100 fps can be problematical & you need to test what exactly works in the exact situation.

The 100 ISO shutter looks like a very clever soloution.

Get 2 sealed lead acid 12v, by far the cheapest option.

What do you mean? shoot as contrasty as you want, it's art not a technical thig.

IIRC the first were black, then Grey. It was replaced by the 7-63 about 10 years ago.

If it's on a Red CEE plug then it will be on 3 phases, make sure if you dont use all the globes that you still split the phases.

Just light it so it looks right to your eye, don't use any fill. Then turn on the camera & shoot, if it looks right it is! DONT overexpose so you can see everything that is not what you want to do.

Of course they don't do what you want, they are cheap STILL camera lenses, they do what they were supposed to do, not more. There is no free lunch with optics.

That was your route, you even made money on the first film!

There is a reason that real motion picture lenses are very large, heavy & expensive. You get what you pay for!