Luke Prendergast

For big ripple reflection effects Ive used loosely hung 'mirror' fabrics, the sort you'd wear to a disco, as a reflector, lightly teased by a fan. Works amazingly well. I don't think the mirror in a puddle gag would be big enough to convincingly suggest underwater.

I'd add an inline fuse as well, to protect against a short circuit. A lead-acid battery can output enormous current, enough to melt any camera power cable into a smouldering puddle.

For such a fixture I'd go for 2 x 500w. Could be made switchable for half power and no CT shift, bulbs last longer and an outage still leaves you with useful light. Worklights and replacement bulbs in 500 watts are very widely available, 1000 is a bit scarce (around here - Aus). All the linear tubes with R7 connection are tungsten-halogen.

Where are you?

T-stops cost more than F-stops, I'll be darned.

Shoot, shoot, shoot on whatever you have - Super 8, VHS, your cellphone, SLR, webcam. The learning of what makes a frame is something you will only achieve by constantly looking at the world around you through a frame. Small, simple films for yourself will teach you as much as a 'proper' production.

I've always understood a nested zoom to be multiple zoom shots in a seamless cut, to make a longer range zoom shot than the lens is capable of, ie., zoom wide to narrow, move camera closer, zoom wide to narrow, cut together as one long zoom in.

Here's some foolhardiness for you. Neglected to close the right-hand front window but no damage done (thankfully; my own car). Easy effect. All we did was ...

It appears they are Zeiss ZF lenses with a bigger housing and a focus gear. Direct from Zeiss the ZFs start at ~$680USD so for triple the price I'd be hoping P+S have done more than what appears to be just a very simple mechanical modification. P+S are listing the T-stop the same as Zeiss are the F-stop so I think they've made a mistake there.

I know you're having fun, but if it's just doing a countdown then click, why not just use a $15 countdown timer, as used in the kitchen and for exercise routines? Some have a looping function. And it will be more chronometrically accurate than an off-the-shelf untrimmed crystal-driven PIC clock. And you don't have to build the thing. And it comes in a nice case. Photocoupler on the beep out... Nick, an SCR doesn't turn off until the load current is interrupted, so would be no use here.

Still there when I looked. Image attached, so they can't disappear it now.

We don't get it until June in Australia, except a very limited amount of test rolls.

You may have had too little weight on the slider for smooth operating. DVX100+P&S+head isn't much. Add a shot bag or two.

What's the failure mode of a nylon lantern when it gets too hot? Spontaneous combustion, noxious fumes, and burning plastic dripping everywhere?

Hey Brad, I suggested the use of paragraphs to a particularly verbose and grammar-challenged user, and the reply was: Some people won't be helped. But you can ignore them. :rolleyes:

Mine are basically a length of lamp rod with a brass and ceramic socket and some bent wire. The wire clamps in where the lampshade would normally fit on the socket.

K3 handcrank installation instructions: 1 . Remove the screw with the two holes in the centre of the wind mechanism. It undoes counter clockwise. A very small screwdriver can fit into one of these holes. 2. Remove all of the winding mechanism. It pulls straight off. Be careful, there are small springs in there waiting to Jack-In-The-Box. It's probably a good idea to keep these things in case you need to convert your camera back to normal. Keep aside the fancy chrome disc with the radial grooves; we'll be using this. 3. Ready to install the handcrank. The order is: crank handle first, nylon washer, the chrome disc you kept aside, washer, shakeproof washer, screw. It is easier to align the nylon washer together with the chrome disc before installing it onto the shaft. Rotate the disc until it mates with the square shaft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREW or you will strip the thread in the shaft. That's it.

No! No full email addresses on open forums please! Spambots will be after me in no time! I do still make them - http://cgi.ebay.com/Krasnogorsk-3-add-on-H...8QQcmdZViewItem

It would be very useful to state where you are.

http://www.thedopshop.com/product_info.php...;products_id=69 Not heard of any others.

http://www.colorlab.com/forms.html

Hey Kevin, is that the the shot that cracked the windshield from thermal shock?

Not looking for critique; just thought to share some stills from Epicure's Australia Day weekend shows at Karova Lounge, Ballarat Vic Aus. The bass player gave me his EOS400D to shoot some. Rated at 1600. Pics are straight from the camera (& downsized). These DSLRs aren't bad. Lighting was 2 racks of 6 LED pinspots on a slow color crossfade. The pretty background is Christmas lights behind ND frost on Autopoles.

Clicked in at the end of this thread, and after reading a few posts I must say the title 'Babel' is entirely appropriate.

75 ohm terminators, and though they're not really the right way to do things, BNC t-pieces will get you out of trouble more times than they'll get you into it.