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  1. Today I finished confirming that Ektachrome 100D (Super 8 ), is not a film to shoot until at least 2 years have passed, that no one has complained that the film got stuck. After a unique weekend shooting the ektachrome, the counter on my camera (Canon Auto Zoom 518SV) tells me that the entire film had already been exposed. Excited about everything I thought I had filmed, I take out the cartridge and see that it doesn't say "exposed", as it normally should. Just then, the various comments I had read about this emulsion in particular and the flaws with which it had been coming out of the factory fell into my head. I had never given it much thought because I had also read positive comments, so the only thing left for me was to try it myself and see how it goes. After noticing this, I re-marked it with a marker and the film didn't move, I tried moving it slowly with my fingers and it didn't move, I tried moving it hard with my fingers and it didn't move either. So I came to the conclusion that more cartridges are coming out of the factory with faults than in good condition. The first cartridge (Kodak Vision 3 50D) that I had shot, new camera, I accepted that something could go wrong because I was testing the camera (which at first glance looked in excellent condition). I also had problems (I didn't know about the care of the cartridges and made some mistakes) and the film was exposed only 1m of the 3m and cents at 18fps that should last. So I said, I'll take care of the next cartridge (Ektachrome) like gold, that's how it was, but what happened happened. What I have also read is that this camera in particular, over time the motor expands and that it is also quite weak (motor), perhaps it is one of the reasons that neither of the 2 cartridges exposed the entire film? The question that remains for me is whether to take my camera to do a service or directly buy a fully conditioned one with a service already done, and perhaps one with a strong motor to avoid that in the future, when I dare again to try to shoot an Ekta, don't be a problem. I don't want to make a discharge about Ektachrome, but more than anything to know what you guys think, to know your experiences and everything in general. Today I ended the day wanting to just put the camera back in its box on top of a shelf until the urge to shoot comes back. The truth is that I started 1 year ago with super 8 and I'm not an expert, but I do know that there are some in this group, so correct me if I'm wrong about something. Delighted to read your opinions on this, thank you very much and sorry for so much delirium.
  2. Ultra Prime Set X7 Price: $45,000 omar@raw-entertainment.com In perfect working condition 10mm 16mm 24mm 32mm 50mm 85mm 135mm Omar Alarian COO / Film Producer IMDB: www.imdb.com/name/nm7440967/ Raw Entertainment www.raw-entertainment.com Gold Sponsor: www.cinematography.net Sponsor: www.cinematography.com Latest Feature Film Trailer Welad Rizk: youtu.be/KbuuzxTxhP4 Youtube Channel: youtube.com/c/RAWegypt Instagram: instagram.com/rawegypt?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Facebook: www.facebook.com/rawegypt Address: 55 Abd El-Haleem Hussein Ad Doqi Dokki Giza, Egypt Cell: +2 010 996 7575 3 USA: +16176104227 omar@raw-entertainment.com
  3. Hello I just came across a Bolex h8 and was wondering if I could shoot 16mm with it? Assuming I put on the turret plate from a broken h16 Rex onto the h8 Rex, would I be good to shoot 16mm or would I have to do something with the sprockets, are the perforations different? Thanks!
  4. Hello everyone, First time posting on the forum. Thank you all for taking the time to read this. I've been experimenting and testing various standard 8mm cameras for the past 2+ years now. I recently acquired a Bolex B8 equipped with 2 lenses. One of these lenses has the Visifocus depth of field scale. I'm having a hard time understanding how to shoot these types of lenses because up until now all of my other cameras have had fixed focus lenses. I've come to realize I still have lots to learn on how to shoot and focus successfully with analogue motion picture cameras, especially with subjects moving towards the camera. I use a lightmeter app on my phone to calculate the proper exposure depending on the shooting speed and this has greatly improved my results over the years. My question is, if I'm shooting at 24 fps and the lightmeter app says i need an F-Stop of 2.8, but the Visifocus reading indicates the 'zone of sharp focus' is under 7 feet at 2.8, how am I going to focus on a subject that is 20 feet away? If i adjust the Visifocus dial on the lens to F22, zone of focus says 4-30 feet, then wouldn't the scene be under exposed? I give this example because thats exactly what happened to my footage. All of the scenes I shot with the 36mm lens at 2.8 are extremely out of focus but the exposure is correct. All the footage i shot with the other lens on the B8 looks ok. That lens is the Yvar 12.5mm f/2.5 fixed focus lens. Any tips on how to shoot and expose correctly with these lenses would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Chris
  5. I have an 8mm Illumina (Optar) lens for sale. It's in B mount for super 16mm sensor/film. I bought this lens to begin a set with but then found a complete set for sale, so this one is no longer needed. I'm asking £1620 + shipping for it. It is a rare lens and in excellent condition. I can provide more pictures if needed. Shipping will be charged at the cost, insured and signed for. I'm also happy to meet the buyer and exchange. I'm based in Hampshire UK, often working in London if that suits the buyer to meet there. This is me.. http://davidcawleydop.com Please contact via email david@davidcawleydop.com Regards, David Cawley DoP
  6. Currently, my 5008 MS is in Sweden with Björn being serviced, re-celled, and having a Angenieux 8-64mm collimated - it's a lens I'm very happy with as I've always found it to be sharper than the Schneider 6-66mm. That said, I've recently been offered a chance to buy a 10mm 1.8 retrofocus Angenieux which I've seen be compared to the Cinegon 10mm! But is it worth buying this and then paying for it to be collimated if I've already got a 8-64mm?
  7. I am working on the film looping installation but I found loading on the looper is pretty hard to get 'balanced'. As I understood, ideally looping system has to reel and unreel film more or less same amount film so it won't stuck or become large film donut? I load the film with spacer on inner circle and remove it later, so whole film roll could rotate smoothly on the looper plate and it could release. It runs well for a while without any problem but after certain moment you can see the whole film circle is getting smaller or bigger which lead the looper stuck with film or make the film out of track(plate). It doesn't happen always same point or duration of time so I feel it almost randomly happen. Barely it runs on 'balanced' mode, but I have no idea why. and what did I do. Is there basic general rules or warnings that I have to mind? I guess the amount of film and the type of the looper would be another factor, I'd like to run 100 to 150m length film if possible.(but I'd like to find stable way first even if shorter length) Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
  8. Hello all! I am currently working on a project with some old 8mm film. It was a roll of Kodachrome II that I found. I got it developed to B&W, as that is the only way most places develop it these days. However, the film is very faded. This is somewhat to be expected, considering it had been sitting undeveloped for upwards of 50 years. However, there is only so much I can do digitally to enhance the image. Is there any sort of chemical process that could be applied to the film after it is developed, to retrieve some of the image? Something that would boost the contrast? I'm assuming the answer is no, but I wanted to ask. Additionally, if anyone had any other suggestions or remedies, I would very much like to increase the clarity of this footage, as I am trying to track down the person who shot it. The footage is below for your convenience. Thank you so much! --------------- Here is the ungraded roll: Here is the graded roll:
  9. Planning to shoot a project with a Nizo 6080. I was wondering if it was possible to somehow rig a bullet camera or something of the sort to use as a video assist. I've seen stuff on the internet from 10 years about about how to do this with Beaulieus, but nothing about Nizos or posted recently. Anyone have any experience with this, or know which bullet cam models or rigging methods might work with a Nizo viewfinder? Preferably without spending a ton of money or a lot of complex engineering to build it. Doesn't need to be fancy, just functional - I’m a student self-funding the project. Alternatively, would buying one of those old Zigview monitors work? How would I set that up to my circular viewfinder? All their models seem to have been made for rectangular SLR viewfinders and I can’t tell if any of the adapters might work. None one currently selling one on Ebay offers returns, so if i bought one I want to be absolutely sure I’m getting one that will fit my camera.
  10. Last time I posted about choosing a regular8 camera, I received such great help, so I'm hoping you all will feel inclined to help me once more. Having boiled down the list of regular8 cameras that I am seeking to a just a few models, I've been searching far and wide on the internet in order to purchase them. The cameras that I am seeking are: 1. Canon Cine Zoom 512 2. Beaulieu MR8 Reflex control (w Gossen light meter) 3. Agfa Movex Reflex Unfortunately, these are all so hard to find! The ones that I have found and purchased all have problems. They need repairs and/or servicing. Problem is, I don't know who can repair and/or service these cameras. Bjorn Andersson says he cannot and will not service Beaulieu regular 8mm cameras. I'm aware of Bernie O'Doherty, in fact he is doing a basic service on a Beaulieu MAR8G that I sent to him, but I'm wondering if there are other options out there. I would be willing to consider paying possibly substantially more than these cameras are worth in order to have perfectly running versions, especially considering the money that I am spending on the duds that I am finding on eBay. So my questions are threefold. First, what are your preferred sources for purchasing regular8 cameras? I am aware of Catawiki, obviously eBay, and Etsy. Do you know of any shops that specialize in 8mm cine cameras that sell tested, functioning cameras? Second, do any of you have any of the cameras that I have listed above, that are clean, tested, and functioning, and you would be willing to sell to me? I am getting desperate! Do any of you have personal shops with various 8mm cameras for sale? Last, who can service these cameras, dependably? Do any of you do servicing? I would guess that there are repair and service businesses/individuals in the LA area, but I have not had any luck in finding them. Do you know of any there? It does not seem impossible to find repair/service for super-8 or 16mm, but it does seem impossible to find it for regular8! Help! I am running some very interesting, striking, film experiments and I will be very excited to share them with all of you, but to really do my thing I need better cameras! Please help me! And thank you! Erren
  11. Hi, I am selling 3 Beaulieu Cameras. 1.) Beaulieu R8 reflex control - seems like ist fully functional! - what you see is what you get! 2.) Beaulieu 4008 S - Battery Pack is included, but it needs new cells - no charger included - what you see is what you get! 3.) Beaulieu 4008 ZM2 - Battery Pack is included, but it needs new cells - no charger included -what you see is what you get! I am trying to sell these for a good price. My Uncle died and my aunt gave these cameras to me. i would love to sell them so she can use the money for a last flight from Germany in the states to visit her sister. I do not really know how much these vintage cams should cost.. i just know, that my uncle made great films using them and i´m pretty sure they are working. I don´t do films, I´m just into Photography. Please contact me with your offer. I would ship with dhl from Germany!
  12. Hi, I am planning on shooting a short film on my Bolex B8. It takes double run 8mm film. I want to shoot in black and white (film stock I can find for my camera includes Fomapan reversal 100, Fomapan negative 100, and Fomapan negative T200). I am relatively new to shooting on 8mm and I was wondering if anyone had any tips for me, especially in regards to the best way to light for B/W 8mm? I hope to get as sharp an image possible, I understand that shooting at a higher aperture will help, and that using newer lenses will also help (although I do not plan on purchasing new lenses). I love high contrast images but I am not sure how well I will be able to achieve this with 8mm. Is there anything in particular I should keep in mind when I am lighting? Is one of the film stocks I mentioned better to use than the others? Any advice will be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  13. Hello, I have a Canon 310XL, and as I am very new to 8mm filming, I followed the instructions of a video online for this model and loading film into it - I loaded it and filmed, the Ft. gauge on the side of the camera is now at 50ft, and it hasn't stopped filming or clicked now that it's reached 50ft, the engine keeps spinning - I'm wondering if this is normal for this model or not, as when I open the side of the camera, I can see that not 1 or 2 of the "notches" are pressed down from the canister of film, perhaps this roll needed a "notch hack" or the film doesn't need to hit one of the internal meter notches or something similar.... So, my question is: Can I take the canister out and have it developed as soon as it's hit 50ft? Because it seems like neither of the 2 notches were clicked into place, will that affect my film? I filmed in daylight, with no 85 filter applied, and no light meter button raised. It's been on the 50ft mark for awhile and I've kept filming every now and then to see if it'd click or stop running, but it hasn't, would that mean the final frame of the film is still being filmed over? Any help would be great, thanks!
  14. Hoping someone could tell me how long the B series are suppose to run at 18FPS on a full wind? Cheers!
  15. https://www.ebay.com/sch/analogfilms/m.html?_trksid=p3692
  16. Reducing my Bolex 8mm stash! Great deals! https://www.ebay.com/sch/analogfilms/m.html?_trksid=p3692 Thanks for looking, and regards! Todd
  17. Hey there, i was just wondering what some of your favorite and most inspirational experimental film makers are. Mine is Hans Richter, the way he uses film as an extension of his paintings is, to me, life changing. I have had a film showcased in a film festival that was influenced by his work. i first heard about him in a documentary called "Free radicals: a history on experimental film". i want to know what you guys like because I am constantly looking for new ideas and influences for my work.
  18. hey guys, I recently got into 8mm film making. i specialize in the avant-gard and experimental side of the art form. I have very limited resources and experience with it though. if anyone could tell me the best places to get film, and get that developed. where the best place to get editing tape; so on and so on. I'm a musician by trade and write film scores. i've only ever made digital recorded movies, so film is some what new to me. I have the 8mm camera and projector already and one roll of film. i just need your help. Hans Richter is my hero
  19. Hello everybody, I was hoping to find the Kodak Super 8 film camera at the NAB2017, but I haven't have any luck. Does anyone knows what happened to that project? MOY
  20. Ok, more than ONE question, I admit! :) I am a VERY beginning filmmaker who has not an iota of filmmaking and directing experience. Yet I have the dream of creating this huge, complex, well-polished independent short film using motion picture film and professional movie cameras. I am tempted to laugh at myself and say to myself, "Dude! You have no experience! Snap into reality and realize: you will not make this film and make it how you want it, without some type of filmmaking, directing, and cinematography experience." I am sure that is true and so.... I have no video camera except a cheap phone that has barely any memory on it so that is not an option. I do not have the money to buy a DSLR with video capabilities that I could use, either. BUT, I do have a Super 8 camera that someone gave me. So I figure, why not work with what I've got?! So, for any people out there who have made, or like to make, Super 8 films, what would be the best quality, least-grainy super 8 film out there? I would want it to be as clear and as close as possibly to standard 35 or 16mm as I can get, color-wise as well. I am guessing that the only way to do cuts is in-camera, correct? My camera has a tripod mount which I think is AWESOME, as I will definitely be using it! I am wanting also to do slow motion and time-lapse with the film, which leads me to my main question! Am I correct in guessing I would have to do that post-filming, using an optical printer?
  21. As i found a cheap Bolex L8 (double 8mm) and want to devellop myself, i look for a tools to split in two the 16mm film. I have take a look around internet but din't find anything yet. Can somebody help me?
  22. 18k = IMAX 15-perf (or 36K?) 12-13k = 70MM 5-perf 6K = 35MM 4-perf 3K = 35MM 2-perf 1.8K = S16MM 1.5K = 16MM 720p = S8MM 480 = 8MM I had to share this with someone. I found so many people including myself looking for these numbers I had to compile this list. I cannot find anything close to this on the internet all in one place. Digitally, IMAX is referred to as being three times better/larger than 35mm (18k / 6K). On Film, IMAX is three times larger then 70mm and 70mm is twice as large as 35mm therefore it should be six times as large. This is of course the best possible scenario of each format. These are all comparables, they cannot be absolutely perfect. I'm comparing category to category. So much in the real world changes these numbers, for example cropping 16mm to a release format reduces the frame size and corresponding resolution or finding a camera and lens that can shoot S8mm or 8mm and come close to 720 or 480 quality.
  23. Hi everyone, I'm a writer doing research for a character in my novel, set in 1971. I'm wondering if there were any home movie cameras in existence during that time that had reels that filmed longer than 3-4 minutes at a time. Basically, I'm trying to write a scene where the character leaves a camera running on a table (somewhat inconspicuously) and it captures a rather shocking event. But in order for this scene to make sense, the camera would need to be recording for at least 20 minutes. My initial research has revealed that there were several popular handheld 8mm movie cameras that year, such as the Kodak M22, but most of them used standard 50 ft reels that could only capture 3-4 mins of action. I did see that there are 7" reels (400 ft) that could record upwards of 25 minutes. But these reels are huge, and I imagine not many consumers owned cameras large enough to run these reels, right? They were more film studio cameras? (And such cameras certainly wouldn't be very inconspicuous in a room, I'm guessing). Thanks in advance for your help! Cheers, Sarah
  24. I recently purchased some Kodak Vision3 re-cans and short-ends film stock. I’ve read differing opinions in regards to refrigerating versus freezing the film. Some have recommended to not freeze the film as it may be damaged from the process. Is there any general consensus as to the best practice for storing film? Kodak literature states that freezing film is an appropriate step for longer term storage (more than six months). I don’t know when I may use it and if the time period will exceed six months. Can I promptly freeze the film to slow the degradation process? With my film stock being re-cans and short-ends, I feel I should be more mindful of degradation, but with it not being in factory-sealed cans anymore should I avoid freezing? What are the best techniques to safely store new and opened film stock? Fridge or freezer? Should I place the cans in zipped plastic bags? Should I insert selica gel packets to reduce moisture? Any tips or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
  25. I recently had a couple of my Canon 814 XL-S cameras converted to Super Duper 8. I've been reading about it for some time. When you file down the left side of the gate, this exposes the area of film on the opposite side of the perforations (where the sound strip would have been). When you are looking through the viewfinder, the extra area attained through widening the gate is on the right side of the viewfinder. Why? I know it is a simple answer. But intuitively, it feels confusing. I have yet to shoot Super Duper 8. My experience is based on reading about people's experience with this format. But I have seen multiple instances of posters stating that the extra area is on the right side of the viewfinder, but you file the left side of the gate. Please help my poor little confused brain. Thanks.
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