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Showing results for tags 'Lighting'.
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Hello all It's been a while since i've been on this forum. Right now, i'm working as a DOP for a local television in Switzerland. We've been rebuilding the whole lighting rig and i'm pretty happy with the gear i've chosen. It consists mainly of Fiilex and Elation fixtures. Anyway, i'm struggling a bit with the video walls on the set. No matter what i do, they always seem to be too bright. I tried turning down the brightness but, i still need to light the talents quite strongly to compensate with the video walls in the back. The phenomenon is the same with the different lighting scenarios i have. Either low key or high key. My question is: how do you deal with led/video screen walls on a TV set ? I spoke with some colleagues and they told me that they turn down their LED walls to the minimum and sometimes, they even lower the opacity of the media files. I also struggle with the white balance of the screens. Before i arrived, they have been calibrated way to high (around 7000K) and i have to light the whole set at 6500K (limit of my projectors) and turn the +green to the max to match the screens. The in the camera, in have to compensate this green/cyan tint. Do you think there's another way to do this rather that re-calibrating all the screens ? Wish you all the best in those strange times and i'm looking forward reading your answers.
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Hello, I'm currently working on my dissertation project where I'm planning to create a guide on how to light all six skin tones on the Fitzpatrick Skin Tone Scale under the three-point lighting setup, also know as the McCandless System. The original plan was to do the tests myself with six subjects, matching the skin tones of the six on the Fitzpatrick scale however due to the Coronavirus pandemic, this has become impossible. In order to continue with this project I have decided to create this guide with methods I would have taken myself, past experience with lighting and potentially some advice from you on this forum! Camera-BlackMagic Cinema Camera EF Lighting Fixture- Tungsten fixture During the tests, only variables would have been changed in order to find the optimal setting for each skin tone, the lighting setup, lighting fixtures and camera would remain the same. If changing different variables doesn't make a difference and the skin tone doesn't look natural in the images captured, the images would be put into an editing software to essentially "cheat" to see if the skin tone can be truly represented in the image. As a finale for the tests, the lightest and darkest skin toned subjects would have been placed next to each other infront of the same equipment and lighting setup, where only variables would have been changed again to attempt to light both skin tones appropriately within the same frame. This guide is not only for my dissertation project as I believe it would help any aspiring Cinematographer or DOP working with a variety of talent with different skin tones. Does anyone have any advice on how they would approach lighting the six skin tones presented only using the three-point lighting method and only changing variables such as gels, scrubs, makeup, etc. also what kind of camera and lighting fixture would you use (must be a tungsten fixture). I hope to reference any suggestions made in my dissertation project so I hope that isn't a problem for anyone, if there are any qualms about this please let me know! Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appreciated on any aspects of the guide, I hope your all keeping safe during this strange time. Thanks Sean
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ARRI Studio Ceramic 250 Hi Guys I am interested to hear peoples opinions on this light it sounds like something that would be very handy to have in my kit. It seems to have a built in ballast and the bulbs can be swopped between a tungsten 3300k bulb to a hmi type bulb with a 5500k temperature. They power usage is 250 watts and has a light output the equivalent of a 1k tungsten. They sound to have a lot versatility and they run cooler temp wise. But am i missing something here. Why are these not that popular, fair enough they are an older light fitting buti have never seen one of these on set or in any hire houses? The CRI is 90 is this the reason. I d love to hear opinions on this light the pros and the cons off anyone who has used them. I am considering buying one but dont have any where to hire it from to test one first. -
Hello everyone, I've been involved in video production for a while now and am now keen to learn more in depth about lighting and getting more experience in the field. Reading about meters, I understand how helpful they are in determining contrast ratios and light levels on interiors and locations, and are especially beneficial when shooting film (I'm getting into shooting 35mm stills lately). My max budget is around £200-400. So far my eyes are on the Sekonic L308X for its footcandle/lux readings, easy-to-find battery and size. However, the things holding me back are: Lack of head rotation (not a good look on set?) Flat disc accessory might be easy to lose Lack of spot meter reading Ideally, I'd love to have a 758 Cine, but I find they're hard to come by on ebay (plus can get a bit pricey if in a bidding war). I could go for any of the high end photographic meters, but I'm unsure about the lack of footcandle/lux settings in a majority of them. Is this a problem if I need to perform/communicate something quickly? Would I be better off getting a cheaper lux meter separately? Ultimately I hope to buy something that's reliable for starters, but will come in handy years down the line. Thanks. ? -
Hello there folks. My 2.5 strand hmi barn doors have unfortunately have gone missing. This light is a linch pin in my kit and is pretty useless without the barn doors. I just wondered if anyone had any spare ones they are willing to sell. I have searched the internet looking for them and had no luck. Any leads or suggestions of where to look would be deeply appreciated.
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Hi Masters, do you know what is dynamic lighting.
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I'm shooting a music video inside a restaurant with drop ceiling (location) and would like to create practical overhead lighting (like this) to give us more freedom with our framing. In the example above -- it looks like they popped out tiles where they needed light, laid out a large cut of diffusion across several tiles and placed individual fluorescent tubes (astera, quasar or kino?) on each rectangle. What do you think? Can anyone provide any helpful ideas on how to achieve lighting like this on a modest budget? The restaurant also has several 3-bank T12 fluorescent fixtures already installed. I'd like to replace these fixtures with T12 kino tubes but the location is pretty dated and I'm worried about flickering because of old ballasts. How can I tell if the ballast will produce a flicker? I looked around the fixture and didn't find any specs printed on the side. -
Upcoming summer fashion shoot for a sunglasses campaign. The creative requires throwing shadows into the space to emulate sunlight coming through a window/casting shadows through exotic plants etc. We're working on a bit of a tight budget, looking for recommendations on how to light a space like below (it's a photography studio), to achieve close to the look on the example storyboard from the client. There's a lot of natural light in the studio space so we'll need a good bit of light to create a decent contrast ratio between sunlight & shadow. I'm thinking potentially one Arri M18 through CTS/CTO and actual plants/windows cut out of cardboard to motivate sunlight. That's pretty much as far as we can stretch the budget in terms of hiring lighting. We have 1x Aputure 300d and 1x Aputure 120d available already with 1x floppy & a few flags for neg fill. Also, can anyone recommend any window/plant gobos? Unsure what we'll end up lighting with, and I've never used gobos before... Any advice would be awesome, Cheers!
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Hi! I'm studying cinematography in Spain and I'm gonna be DoP in a school short film. I have to design a lighting for a dance sequence with a couple dancing slowly together. It's gonna be shot in studio, we have multiple tungsten about 1KW, 2KW, also Velvet light panels, fresnel HMI 1KW, 2KW. One requirement is that it must be a theatrical light. I have thought about hanging lights on the characters, adding smoke, and coloring the backgrounds with jellies. There is also the possibility of getting light through a false window. I wold like to incorporate neon lights, led strips, or something like that in the background. Do you have any purpose to design the lighting for that? Thanks in advance!
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Hi, How would you go about and light this room for a moody feel? There is no budget and no crew. I have a couple of small lights 1x300w + 3x60w LED and a LED panel, a hazer and a big roll of ND. I also have 2x Yeelight RGB bulbs. So what do I need more? I look forward to hear your ideas ? Thanks a lot /Per I love the look of this:
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Perfect conditions! Regular import with box and genuine Sekonic pouch. Asking price is €850 If you don't have an EU or UK VIES enabled VAT ID I have to apply local VAT.
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Hello, When you are metering a scene, do you meter for the camera's dynamic range, or for the 6 stops in SDR or the 13+ stops in HDR? For instance, if your camera has 6 stops of highlight dynamic range, and 8 stops of shadow dynamic range, do you keep everything in your scene between those 14 stops or do you keep everything in between the lets say 6 stops of standard dynamic range? I hope this question makes sense! Thanks in advanced to anyone who can help! - Matt
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Hey all! I'm doing a showreel shoot this August, and it will probably be really sunny and have a out door location coming up. Due to the limited budget and power available, the biggest light i can get is a off brand 2.5k HMI and a home made 6by diffusion from shower curtain. I was wonder if these are enough to make a impact? My indie rental house didn't tell me which model of HMI we are getting, but it's safe to assume it won't be as effective as the Arris (maybe matching output of M18 idf we're lucky) . I'm not diffusion the light, maybe a 1/4 or 1/8 cto max for some scenes. Any input will be appreciated as always. Jing
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Hi Does anyone know a more affordable version of the 2 tube holder with baby pin that you can use with quasars? https://modernstudio.com/products/dual-fluorescent-lamp-holder-with-5-8-pin Have been searching everywhere but can't seem to find anything below $55. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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OP is the question, although I also am wondering if these drop ceilings in the attached picture work with scissor clamps? I can't tell if the gap/space down the line is just cosmetic or functional, and these pictures are being sent to me.
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Hello. Film student here, looking for some advice. I've got a scene coming up that I want to set at sunset, but not wanting to confine my shoot to an hour a day I'm hoping to replicate that time of day instead. There are two locations to be lit like this, both interiors with windows and white walls. The way I'm thinking of pulling this is by shooting a HMI (at least 1.8 K, but could go higher) and relying on bounce from the walls to give more interior light, then cheating in a silk or bounce for fill lights in tighter shots while using the "sunlight" as key light. also flagging and neg-fill where needed. Either gelling the HMI or grading for the sunset color. Will that bounce be enough to fill the space and brighten up all the non-wide shots? Does it sound like it'll be a convincing replacement? Is grading the color in at all wise, or should I go to lengths to color the light on-set? Any help and advice is much appreciated!
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Hi everyone, thanks for looking through and the advice ahead of time. I have a shoot fast approaching and I'm debating the best way to light my exterior scene for an upcoming commercial. We will begin shooting early morning and we will see a family enter an amusement park from one angle where the sun is backlighting them - and then we will need to reverse the camera to see their POV. It will be a very sunny day I'm sure with no clouds so we should get some nice backlight. I'm debating however whether to front lit with a large ultra bounce (20x20 or 12x12) using the sun to light the family of 4 as they walk in (Wide - Full shot of family - then MID CU of each member). OR if I should also blast some M40s/M90's into the ultra bounce OR light them using 2 of these lights with diffusion frames or softboxes over them. The location has access to 63 amp power so we could run cables to take this power. I want a high key commercial look but want to go down the wisest route here. I have attached a sketch (actual location) in order to get a better idea.... I also plan to use a Job at the back of the family at the end of the street for an establishing shot... Also after I get this I will have to move the camera around facing a street of performers so they will all be front lit by the sun. I could film this first in order to get a more pleasant look with the sun being lower (Maybe use the Frames with Diffusion in case of any camera shadow if need be) and then film the family. Reference Picture attached... Any thoughts you may have on this or experience with similar setups would be super. Cheers all!
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BB&S Area 48 LED Light https://www.bbslighting.com/collections/area-48-studio-led/products/copy-of-area-48-studio-led-fixture-with-remote-phosphor-panels https://www.bbslighting.com/collections/area-48-studio-led/products/area-48-soft-high-cri-media-3200k Comes with.. v mount adapter 5600 and 3200 interchangeable panel ac adapter dual light soft case cstand mount snapgrid 40 degree snapbag $800 contact me for photos
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I have two lights with bulbs that need replacing, but these are halogen lights that kind of intimidate me still. One of the lights is a PBL MXLIGHT with two long skinny halogen bulbs, The other is a Britek. I took the bulb out of the Britek and it says "500 watt 120 volt" on the side, but no brand name. So two questions: Will any halogen with the correct watts and voltage work with a halogen light And: If i use a lower voltage and wattage, will it work but not be as bright? I don't want anything to explode in my face here. I found the website 1000 bulbs but I don't want to buy without confidence. Most videos i'm finding online are for LED's which I neither own nor am a fan of.
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Hello, Was wondering if any of you ever used a Skypanel S60 with an Anton bauer Cine VCLX block battery? I know battery voltage of Cine VCLX has max 28v (3pin XLR) which reduces light output from S60. My question is mainly regarding cabling in order to power the Skypanel on this type of battery. Arri don't seem to have/sell a cable or adapter from Battery input on the head 23-36V DC (4 pin XLR) to 28V (3 pin XLR) output on the Cine VCLX. Do you, in that case, DIY the cable? In which case, what recommendations do you have for AWG of cabling, max length and/or other useful information regarding wiring specs would you have for me? Thank you! -
Hello everyone, My name is Tayyib Mahmood and I am a film student from Birmingham City University (UK). I am in my final year and currently writing a dissertation on LED and Tungsten Lighting. Now the question I have is for all DoPs, directors, gaffers etc. I would like to hold a Skype interview or even email to document your opinions about LED and Tungsten lighting. Is Tungsten lighting becoming finite and are LED lights taking over the film industry? Is there a reason why Tungsten lighting is the predominant force in the film industry today? What issues do filmmakers have with LED regarding CRI, the look etc. If anyone can get back to me, I would really appreciate it.
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As a DP, how do you communicate your orders to your team on set? (e.g. Light ratios, light modifications, rigging)
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Harris-Chewning, Inc. is a production rental company in North Carolina with many years of service and dependability. We rent LED, Kinoflo, HMI and tungsten Lighting. Grip trucks from 1 ton to 4 ton. Cameras and support gear: Arri, Sony cameras, Alura, Zeiss lenses, monitors, etc. Harris-Chewning, Inc. 148 Stancell Drive Chapel Hill, NC 27516 919 942-7997 http://www.harris-chewning.com -
Hi everyone! So I am doing a music video in a couple of days. 2 particular scenes I wanted to fill the background with Maxi Brute lights using them as practicals behind our band members (to resemble stage/star lighting). My location is a hotel and after speaking with the electricians there they have assured me they have enough power to run 2 of these lights off their main electrical room (the light is 3 phase and 62 amp I believe which has been giving the okay by the electricians at the hotel). I want these lights specifically to be used as practicals for when the band member walks on stage and we see these in frame lighting him from behind. Is there any other light that looks like the maxi brutes that I can use in the frame behind the performer? Or shall I continue down this route using these lights? Any suggestions would be appreciated or advice on these lights. Thanks! (P.S. This is the look I was thinking of)
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Does anyone have metrics on the photoflex starlite or chimera triolet 1k's? I've used the triolet once, a few years ago and was wondering how the output compares to using Mole or Arri open face pars with the same modifier. Since they have much larger globes and are made specifically to use with softboxes I would think they have more punch. Also, the photoflex starlites use the same globes as the triolet so I would assume they have the same output. Photoflex has an interesting speedring that fits 4 starlites into 1 softbox, effectively making a cheap barger like setup. The lamps go for about 50 bucks used, so you could potentially have a 4k soft light that can be run on household power. Anyone tried or seen this?? Side note : I know tungsten is not in style but a lot of productions are still using it ?
