Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'film'.
-
Not to be confused with a ‘stylized look' LUT – I created the BozBMDFilm_to_Rec709 Utility LUT to bring out the organic contrast and color values captured by the BMCC / BMPCC in Film LOG or RAW modes. In addition, the LUT strives to preserve highlight and shadow detail [with emphasis on softer highlight roll off] while safeguarding image quality and integrity. [RAW video by John Brawley] Though it's not free, It's still cheaper than a Golden Arches Meal and definitely worth a look even if it's just to see more examples of how the LUT works. Download Page: https://bulentozdemirfilms.wordpress.com/downloads/bmcc-bmpcc-bozbmdfilm-to-rec709-lut/
-
Hey all! Shooting a small music video on S16 soon, and wondering what everyone's thoughts are on the Aaton XTR vs. SR3 vs. 416. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each when compared against eachother? I'm seeing XTR packages are almost half the price of the SR3, and our budget is tiny so I'm trying to see what I'm giving up for the cheaper price.
-
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/258354917"width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> Tyler Burns - "Knock On Wood/Frankenthaler" Shot this 9.5 minute double music video/short film on Kodak 16mm MPF (50D, 250D, 500T) with an Aaton XTR Prod and Zeiss Primes MKI over the course of almost 3 years in Oregon. Development by Fotokem (Burbank, CA) Telecine by Lightpress (Seattle, WA) Love to hear what y'all think. http://aleceagon.com http://instagram.com/aleceagon
-
Hi all, I'm going to be shooting a short film in the very near future on the Sony FS5. The Camera only comes with a kit lens, so I was wondering whether it was worth sourcing another lens to work with. I know friend's have pretty pricey Canon lenses, but I'm unsure whether these would be better or worse. The film is going to be shot mostly outside on location, shots of buildings and streets etc. If anyone has ideas, let me know. Thanks.
-
WTB ARRI 416 Package Please reach out with any leads. Thanks in advance! Cale Nichols calenichols@live.com 310-422-3568 www.calenichols.com
-
Hi All, I was just wondering whether anyone would be able to comment on their experiences with both Cinelab London and iDailies. Ideally, I'm looking for those who have used both companies and would be able to provide some kind of comparison. I understand that the differences between the two will mostly boil down to pricing and service, but I wondered whether their telecines and scans differed at all. (They do both, Cinelab in particular, have a number of option with regards to the type of scan they will give you - HD, 2K Spirit, 4K, etc.) I'd be interested to know also whether people are mainly shooting 16mm or 35mm these days. I am planning to shoot a short up in the North York Moors so if anyone has any suggestions for any labs nearer to Yorkshire that would be great, although I am not sure that there are any left! Thank you all for your help! Cheers, Shahid
-
Hi all! I'm interested in pairing the Zeiss CP2 lenses with the Arriflex SR1. Will the flange depth on the CP2s be a able to work with the SR? Is it possible to pair these two? Thank you!
-
...I've been shooting Tri-X since my student days in 1992. I love it's qualities and nothing quite compares to it. I'm beginning to wonder just how long Kodak will continue to produce this B&W reversal stock. Should I be bulk buying it or am I just a bit paranoid after 'losing' K40, 64T and 100D ???
-
WTB UNDER £1200 Graduate in the summer and would like to shoot my own film on 16mm. Preferably looking for a bolex sbm or rex 5 but don't mind as long as it's reliable! Based in Newcastle/London and willing to travel. Thanks
-
Hi Everybody, I've just acquired an Arri SR2 Advanced and wanted to know if someone knows where I can find dummy film stock ? I need to practice a bit before starting to shoot something real. I live in Switzerland and we don't have labs and film stock anymore in here, everything is closed and out of stock... Let me know. Thank you
-
For the purposes of future testing for a project, I would like to get some opinions on the various characteristics of some Super 16mm primes. Flares, bokeh, sharpness, contrast, color temperature, the works. Lenses in particular I would appreciate information on are... Zeiss Super Speed Mk 1 Zeiss Super Speed Mk 2 Optar Illumina s16 Cinema Products Ultra T Any other prime sets that have both 16mm & 25mm focal lengths. I'm really only interested in prime lens sets, no single primes like the Angenieux 5.9mm or any zoom lenses. -
Hello, (I don't have much experience in filmmaking). For a project, I am planning to make some 3d animations mixed with some digital footage. My plan is to then shoot the projection of this video in film (either super8 or 16mm). My questions are: is this doable? what kind of digital projector do you recommend? is there going to be any flickering problem? what about color balance? thanks.
-
Hello all! I'm shooting a short on 16mm Kodak 500T Vision3 next month. I'm looking to get a cold look out of the film. Thinking blue hues in the shadows, while keeping low contrast in the image. Hoping for something along the lines of the look of the film Godless. Specifically inspired by the MSs of men at 01:33 and 00:33. I have interiors and exteriors, day and night. Planning on using natural light and LiteMat 4's for lighting, and Ultra Primes for glass. Planning on shooting regular 16mm to get the tall aspect ratio. I was thinking I would use an 81 filter to adjust the Tungsten stock for daylight scenes to keep some of the inherent blue from the tungsten stock. I was also toying with using an Antique Suede 1 filter for colour correction... but was wondering if anyone has any advice or would know how to get a look similar to Godless. Should I pull the film a stop? Any filters I could use I don't know about? Appreciate any comments! thank you Peter -
Hello Group, A couple of times I heard that 35mm 2-perf is an excellent alternative to Super 16mm film. Lately I discovered some sources (facebook), where older, used film cameras are being sold in near perfect condition - for very accessible prices (no glass though). No worries: I won't buy anything without making 100% sure I know what I will get. I am obviously on a budget, but doing all the math: 35mm 2-perf (even with the sides cropped to 1.85:1 or 16:9) seems to be excellent value for money since the improvement regarding grain and resolution is clearly visible and the price for film stock and procesing is only slightly higher - I get about 22 minutes from a 1000ft load of readily available 35mm camera film stock. My only two concerns: I can't afford a modern camera which has a -perf option factory built-in (such as some Aaton models). So I was thinking of the expertly converted Arriflex 53 IIC, which was used very successfully as a Techniscope camera and is great (if not as great as modern cameras) for hand held. And I don't know if 2-perf scanning is easy to come by. Let alone the price for good glass. I have no idea which focal length is considered standard (when assuming that 50mm is the average standard for 35mm spherical and 25mm for 16mm. That would make it for Techiscope around 38mm I suppose (?). Any suggestions (including talking me out of the idea) highly appreciated. Please take into consideration that I am located in the EU (the good stuff is usually all in the US). Merry Christmas to all members of this great board. I have learned a LOT from the very helpful members. Here is a huge Thank You!!!! Christian -
Hello, I was wondering if any Moviecam Compact Mark2 is inherently easy to switch between 4-perf and 3-perf movement. Thanks for your help!
-
Hello guys! I'm a filmmaker based in London, England and I wanted to share with you all my latest work. I'm very grateful for this site as I've learned a lot from here and met a lot of good people (and some bad ones too). It inspired me to do what I do and to be where I am. So, I finished my second feature film called The Job, it was a complete hell to shoot as it was shot with one camera, one lens, and one light and entirely in two days. We shot 60 pages a day. I could say it was done because it was artistic call but I would be lying, as it was obviously because of the budget. And I would really love to hear what you have to say. The film is inspired by Reservoir Dogs for the most part, with a gangster twist. Logline: When five guys robbed a bank, they thought that the robbery itself was the hardest part of the job. Here's a link to the trailer: And here's a link to the film https://www.hankorion.com/thejob2017 (you can watch it for free with Amazon Prime). We shot on Red Epic, and 35mm Samyang lens. I made a DIY LED light at home and brought it with me, then attached it to a broomstick and asked my friend to hold it. Thank you, guys! -
Please see below the used Arri Film equipment I have available for sale- ARRICAM LT 4 PERF- £7,500 GBP 1 4 perf Movement 1 Glow Mask 1 Gate Mask 1 Ground Glass 1 LT Camera Handle 1 LT Viewfinder Top (Anamorphic) 1 Eyepiece and eyecup 1 Extension Eyepiece ST 1 Frame Glow Module 1 BP8 Bridge Plate 1 Balance Plate 1 19MM/440MM Bar (Pair) 1 Camera to Battery Cable 1 Handgrip with on/off 1 LT To ST Magazine Adapter 1 LT Centre Handle 1 LT IVS (PAL) 1 400'/120M LT Shoulder Magazine 1 400'/120M LT Shoulder Magazine 1 400'/120M LT Shoulder Magazine ARRICAM ST 3 PERF - £8,500 GBP 1 Filter Mask 1 Gate (..UNI...) Format 1 Ground Glass () Format 1 ST Top/Rear Load Adapter 1 ST Top/Rear Load Adapter Cover Handle 1 ST Camera Handle 1 ST Viewfinder Top (SPHERICAL) 1 Eyepiece + Eyecup 1 ST Extension Eyepiece 1 Frame Glow 1 Frame Glow Mask 1 Footage Counter 1 Flexilight 1 BP5 Bridge Plate 1 Balance Plate 1 19mm / 440mm Bar (Long) 1 Camera To Battery Cable 24v 1 ST Rear Load Adapter 1 ARRI ST IVS Video Unit 1 ST IVS Optic 1 400'/120m Studio Magazine 1 400'/120m Studio Magazine 2 Loop Protector 2 Film Core 1 400'/120m Studio Magazine 1 Loop Protector 1 Film Core ARRI 435ES XTREME 4 PERF - £4,250 GBP 1 435 tcm 1 VIEWFINDER - AVF1 1 Filter Mask 1 Gate Mask 1 Ground Glass 1 Glow Module 1 12v On-Board Splitter (Fitted) 1 24v On-Board Splitter (Fitted) 1 Dovetail Shoe (Fitted) 1 435 Carrying Handle 1 435 Wide Angle Eyepiece + Eyecup 1 FE-3 Extension Eyepiece 1 RCU-1 TG Remote Control Unit-Digital 1 RCU-1 Cable (8 Pin - 8 Pin Fischer) 1 FEM-2 1 BP8 Bridge Plate 1 Balance Plate 1 Pair of 440mm Rods (19mm) 1 435 IVS PAL 1 IVS HEAD 1 IVS OPTIC 1 KC-20 POWER CABLE 1 435 400'/ 122m Magazine 1 435 400'/ 122m Magazine 1 435 400'/ 122m Magazine ARRIFLEX 235 4 Perf - £6,500 GBP 1 Ground Glass s185 1 235 Universal Viewfinder 1 235 Eyepiece + eyecup 1 235 Gate 1 235 Carrying Handle 1 Riser Plate 1 Camera To O/B Battery Cable 1 KC-20 POWER CABLE 1 235 - Long Extension Eyepiece 1 Shoulder Pad 1 235 24v On-Board Battery 1 235 24v On-Board Battery 1 235 24v On-Board Battery 1 24v On-Board Battery Charger 1 SBR-1 Side Bracket And Allen Screw 1 Shutter Tool 1 BP8 Bridge Plate 1 Balance Plate 1 Pair of 440mm Rods (19mm) 1 235 Media IVS PAL 1 235 200' Magazines 1 235 200' Magazines 1 235 200' Magazines 1 235 400' Magazines 1 235 400' Magazines MK2 ARRI Wireless Lens Control - £3,750 GBP 1 WMU-2 Transmitter 1 WMU-2 Transmitter 1 WZU-1 Zoom Control 1 WFU-1 Iris / Focus Unit 1 WFU-1 Iris / Focus Unit 1 Straps Fitted To Transmitter 1 Aerial x3 1 Lens Motor - CLM-2 1 Lens Motor - CLM-2 1 Lens Motor - CLM-2 1 URM-1 Receiver 1 UMC-1 Universal Motor Control 1 WAC-1 Battery Charger 1 WBU-1 7.2v Battery 1 WBU-1 7.2v Battery 1 WBU-1 7.2v Battery 1 WBU-1 7.2v Battery 1 Transformer 1 RS 3-Pin Fisher - UMC (UC-CI-S) 1 Focus Disc x2 1 Dovetail Bracket (2 Parts) MK3 ARRI Wireless Lens Control - £6,750 GBP 1 ARRI ZMU-3 Zoom Control 1 ARRI WMU-3 Wireless Main Unit (White Radio) 1 ARRI WMU-3 Wireless Main Unit (White Radio) 1 ARRI WFU-3 Wireless Focus Unit 1 ARRI WFU-3 Wireless Focus Unit 1 ARRI WEB-3 Wireless Expansion Bracket 1 ARRI WZB-3 Wireless Zoom Bracket 1 ARRI KC-105-S Cable ZMU-3A to WRS 1 ARRI CLM-2 Controlled Lens Motor 1 ARRI CLM-2 Controlled Lens Motor 1 ARRI CLM-2 Controlled Lens Motor 1 ARRI UMC-3 Universal Motor Controller (White Radio) 1 ARRI KC-98 Cable UMC-3A to RS Socket (3pin m Fischer) 1 ARRI KC-91-S 1.3m / 5ft Cable for ZMU-3 / CLM-2 Power 1 ARRI WBU-4 Wireless Battery Unit (High Capacity 7.2V/4.6Ah) 1 ARRI WBU-4 Wireless Battery Unit (High Capacity 7.2V/4.6Ah) 1 ARRI WBU-4 Wireless Battery Unit (High Capacity 7.2V/4.6Ah) 1 ARRI WAC-3 Battery Charger for WBU-3/4 1 Fig 8 (C7) to 13a Mains Cable (UK) 1 ARRI Dovetail 3/8" Adaptor for UMC-3A to Alexa 1 ARRI Dovetail 3/8" Adaptor with Lever for UMC-3A to Alexa 2 ARRI Flat Marking Disk for Full Size Focus Knobs 3 ARRI WLCS Aerial 1 ARRI WLCS Hand Strap 1 ARRI Lanyard (Neck Strap) for SXU-1 (2 Parts) Please contact me for pictures or any further information.
-
Hello, I bought a Krasnogorsk 3 off of Ebay and it shipped over from Ukraine this Monday. I have a shoot this Saturday so I know it is a bit of a rush but it arrived early enough for me to test the exposed film and I found out that there is a continuous scratch along the non-emulsion side of single perf super 16mm film... I thought since this is a regular 16mm camera, maybe the scratch is where the other claw is trying to pull down? It is not in the middle but rather the edge. But I know K3 takes both double perf and single perf and this scratch is very concerning, not really sure where it is picking up the scratches from. When it is going through the upper loop through the roller I see a single scratch and when it comes out from the lower loop and out into the take up spool, I see another scratch. (2 lines as indicated on the picture) So I am assuming it is from the main sprocket or release pin... Please let me know if I got a crappy one and if or if not this is fixable to start anywhere, because I am sure it is not a dust since it is consistent line all along the film. Thank you so much
-
Greetings Everyone! Need some advice here on a sailing documentary which I have shot on S16 with an Arriflex SR3 camera. After a lot of struggles and failures, I have reached 50% of what I really wanted to achieve. Anyways, I have started assembling the footage. Cinelab Mass., has done a good job. I have the negatives scanned to 1080p HD without timecode. Few editor friends of mine suggested that I get the negatives scanned again with a timecode and then with a final cut timeline get a 2K scan and grading done the way we do for movies. I wish to showcase the documentary in film festivals. Do you think an HD output won't do justice? Generally,what formats are documentaries shown in film festivals? advice and suggestions welcome.
-
Hey guys, I haven’t been on here for a while. I’m looking for some advice. Sorry if this is long winded…It’s been in my head for a while. I’m a Scottish DP based in Hong Kong and I’m thinking about relocating back to the UK & trying to get into production work. A bit about me : I have an undergrad in Film from 20 years ago and about 10+ years experience in the camera side of production…everything from AC to Gaffer to DP but mainly on small productions - loadsa of Short films, Indie Music Vids & tons of corporates. (I’ve shot corporates & Indie stuff in about 12 different countries.) I haven’t shot very regularly for a few years after a back injury took me out & I ended up getting a very well paid job in another field. When I recovered I didn’t want to continue shooting corporate jobs but I have been teaching Cinematography at a Film School part time and that’s fired me up again. I’ve always wanted to work in the scripted TV/Film drama genre but there just aren’t many opportunities here in Honkers for non-locals and I feel like there are no options to progress – I really should have left 10 years ago. I’m single, getting on a bit - 40+, female with no strings attached…no debts etc... So my question : How would someone with my years of filming experience but no real 'industry' experience fair in the UK film production scene? I've lived outside the UK for about 17 years so I’m considering taking an MA in Cinematography partly to acclimatize myself back into the country & partly to network for industry contacts plus I do enjoy teaching film and Masters would allow me to teach college classes if things didn’t work out.... BUT I’m not sure if I should go this route? It’s quite a lot of money to put out…OR …would I be better keeping my money to support myself while I just try to network on my own to get contacts & production jobs. In terms of work I have no delusions of turning up & getting DP work and I would have no prob starting at the bottom of a cam dept or even a rental house, I just want to work in the camera dept with good crews but is it realistic for someone in my position and age to try to re-start a career that's been on & off for 2 decades & what route do I take? Thanks for any thoughts or advice...harsh, truthful or difficult...I'd like to hear peoples honest opinions so i can make an informed decision...
-
Hi, I'm selling my filters; 28x Tiffen 4x4 filter. Also selling the metal flight case and a filter pouch for 6 filters. List of filters, 4x 85 4x 85 N3 4x 85 N6 4x 85 N9 2x 85B 1x 85B N3 1x 85B N6 1x 85B N9 1x 85POL 4x 81EF 1x 81EF ND3 1x 81EF ND6 1x 85EF ND9 Metal flight case secures 60 filters. The key for case is missing. Haida 100 filter pouch, holds 6 filters. More pics, Tiffen folder; https://jussipaita.imgur.com ASKING PRICE FOR THE WHOLE SET 900 euro. If you´re interested write me an email: jniemela79(a)gmail.com
-
Shot on Super 16. Kodak Vision3 Stocks. 200T and 50D.
-
I'm ready to do some tests with my Eclair NPR camera and I have some questions after practicing loading the magazines... Obviously I'm missing something simple and I've spent some time searching yet haven't found the answers so please forgive the basic questions: 1) Can someone explain the importance of the "loop"? It's very specific about 12 images with 6 on each side. I don't think the manual I have explains why this is important and what will happen if the frame count of the loop is incorrect or if it's out of alignment. Will it effect the image? Will there be flickering? 2) Assuming the loop is important, why is it necessary to then press the film into the magazine? (thus reducing the loop, I count 8 frames after my loop is pressed in). The videos I've seen go to some length to detail exactly how the loop is formed... only to quickly say "and then when you're done you press it in and load it onto the camera..." Again please forgive my ignorance and thanks for your patience -B
-
Dear Cinematographers, Been carrying around two 100 ft. rolls of 16mm 500T film for the last year. It has been in a 10˚-20˚ cooler for six months. Someone told me freezing negative film would cause the remjet to stick, so I then refrigerated it in about 40˚ for six months. Now that I am ready to shoot it, the question presents itself: How am I to expose it in order to compensate for the yearlong stagnation? That is, if it not already too late. Sincerely Grateful, Kurt Cassidy-Gabhart -
I got a Keystone Executive K51 16mm movie camera from a friend. I'm familiar with vintage analog still cameras but have yet to use a movie camera. I'm eager to put it to use and I was checking out the features, but I can't seem to figure out how to focus this camera. There is no focusing ring on the lens, nor is there any indication of distance settings from the subject. The top of the camera has 3 settings for wide angle and telephoto, which changes the view in the viewfinder. Maybe this is the key to my concerns?! Does anyone have experience with this camera? I do not own the manual and there is no manual online. Thanks!!!
