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I've only watched the first episode, but the cinematography really caught my eye as well. Wanted to comment on this with the hope that it might catch the eye of someone who has some insight.

Hello Sebastian , Just to say thank you .

Thanks for your ideas Aapo. The LTR camera arrived so I could measure that. It should be possible to manually draft lines to get the optical centre projected onto the camera base, within about, almost 0.5mm. A plane orthogonal to the lens axis can be shown with a piece of laminate board contacting the lens front. A line equidistant from the sides of the lens front will intersect the optical centre, and project down to the reference surface that the camera base is sitting on. A line orthogonal to the laminate board can now be drawn under the lens axis. The rear of the camera body may need a temporary surface glued on (protected by masking tape) to make marking easier. The camera is lifted back in to place against the reference marks on the board. The line under the optical axis can now be marked at the front and rear of the base. Should be possible to find the centre of the 3/8" threaded hole, maybe a turned centre point on a piece of 3/8" thread. So we nave the offset, the tolerance is down to our fine lines and drafting skill.

Hi Dom and thank you very much for your answer. I guess I'll see if I can find someone able to do it here in France. Thanks again !

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Yes, I’ve worked on plenty of EBMs. You are correct, you need to remove the mechanism from the casing to access that lock ring, you can’t reach it from the control panel side. That is unfortunately a bit of a job, probably best done by a technician.

If you're talking to him, figure out what that second TS mount is (the one on the camera looks to be Arri-S) And is that some sort of fps controller for the motor? That's a new one on me. Duncan

s o o n

tried to measure but it is very difficult due to the camera not having any right angles to reference to close enough to the thread. On my camera it seems to be pretty close to the optical axis but can be couple of mm off. one method for measuring would be to have a line laser which is pointed so that it hits the center of the lens mount cap and the centerline of the attached 15mm rods at the same time and then seeing where it lands on the bottom of the camera. another method would be to 3d scan the front and bottom of the camera body with appropriate marks on the center of the lens mount and the center of the rods and if possible scan the backside too to get the centerline of the gate. then check from the 3d model how far off center the thread is from the common centerline of those. did you get the camera body already? I think you need to get some kind of 3d scanner and 3d printer in any case if wanting to design accessories for it. but if you only have the printer and not 3d scanner, you could print out a "measuring rig" which mounts to the rods and has a marker to precisely tune it to the center of the lens mount (or lens cap). Then the "measuring rig" extends to the bottom of the camera and has some kind of reference bar/surface you can use to measure the distance between the optical centerline and the actual tripod thread. OR you can just make the accessory first and then mount it and check if it is off and by how much. I sometimes do this if in a hurry and there is budget to make extra test pieces. Just guess the offset first, then make a test piece, mount it and measure how far it is off. if the possible offset is intentional it is likely some fixed amount of full millimeters so measure the approximate figure, guess to which direction the exact value is on the scale and then make another test piece with the guessed exact dimension. you may get it perfect on the second try or one extra version max. needed 🙂

Hello everyone, I’m reaching out for help because I have a Bolex H16 EBM ELECTRIC that works well, except the socket on the camera body is loose, which allows it to rotate. It’s a socket that’s set into the camera body and normally secured by a locknut from the inside. I came across Marko’s thread where he shared a repair manual for the Bolex EBM, and it seems that you need to access it through the magazine side of the camera rather than the side with the controls. That side (the operator side, not the magazine side) is actually just a plastic cover over a metal plate that is fixed to the camera body : The post : https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/98109-bolex-ebm-repair-manual-link-below/ Direct link to the service manual : https://pdfhost.io/v/IJuNtjAap_BolexH16EBMService Has anyone here ever performed this kind of operation? Thanks in advance! Have a great day, everyone!

The 3/8" screw thread in the camera base for fixing to release plate etc. Does anyone know the precise horizontal offset between that (centre) and the optical centre? If you have a dimension, is it from common knowledge, or a factory spec, or was it measured. If measured, what sort of accuracy? Do all the Aaton cameras have the same offset? Thanks for any thoughts, Gregg

The 3/8" screw thread in the camera base for fixing to release plate etc. Does anyone know the precise horizontal offset between that (centre) and the optical centre? If you have a dimension, is it from common knowledge, or a factory spec, or was it measured. If measured, what sort of accuracy? Are all the Arri cameras the same offset? Have other manufacturers copied that for their designs? If they are not all the same, I'm wondering what the offsets are for Movicam, Aaton and Eclair (NPR/ACL). Another way to approach the question is to ask whether bridge plates made for Arri cameras will have the matte box aligned with the optical axis when fitted to other cameras. Was the offset idea carried over to some digital cameras or all? Thanks for any thoughts, Gregg

reflow soldering the 6-pin IO modules for my Eclair NPR and CP16R motor systems. this batch will mainly go to CP16R kits but there will be one or two spared for NPR motors 🙂

small video of the soldering process

Testing the prototype unit with Kinor and fine tuning the software for best stability and response. Assembling the final motors later this week but will need to test the software with ACL camera too before can lock the final version and fully assemble all the motors in the batch

soldering the IO modules for the July batch of cp16r boards. Making 8 boards so there is the required 6 for the cp16r kits and two extra if there is soldering errors etc. and if those extra ones are fine too will use them later for other kits or Eclair NPR project.

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Excellent information here. Thank you!

Thanks Joerg - you make a good point. But I set the filter switch (on the side of the camera, which obviates filter pin in the camera compartment) to the correct position for 100D before I left the UK. The remaining detail of your comment is - as always - extremely instructive - thank you!

Update... The seller is unfamiliar with film cameras. On a video call I tried to help test and assess..I saw that it is standard 16. The gate looked good. Not a heavily used camera. The 400' mag I saw was late model with centre pressure plate. There is a second 400' mag. He uploaded a video of it running (without film) to eBay. He will update that page with a complete list of components in the kit. Seller is offering 20% discount if sold privately (not through eBay). And free shipping worldwide via Fedex.

Do you have any crystal sync motors for 16mm cameras for sale?

Below are some examples of period comedies. They mostly use the approach @David Mullen ASC suggests. The sketch comedy examples start with wides that are fairly true to the dramatic style one would expect, to establish the "serious" setting. Then they start to deviate from that with less shadowy lighting and less diffusion/fog than might be used in a drama, so that faces in the mediums and close-ups are more immediately legible for dialogue or reactions, while still retaining the "serious" look. Comedic period pieces -Monty Python and the Holy Grail -Monty Python's Life of Brian -Monty Python's Meaning of Life has some period scenes, (such as this one) -History of the World Part 1 -Robin Hood: Men in Tights -Our Flag Means Death (TV show) -Hundreds of Beavers (silent comedy inspired, rather than a "realistic" approach) Sketch comedy

I’ve a 16BL with TCS-TXM27 control module, I’d like to get the camera CLAd, but only so I can shoot it myself, I’ve loaded it, but weirdly the XLR4 cable it came with was wired reverse!! I tried to run it , but nothing, I hope the module has a series diode to prevent reverse damage. Any suggestions welcome Ian

I always make my packs up out of D-sized cells. The couple of battery belts I've rebuilt (taking out the old dead NiCd batteries and replacing them with NiMh) have also used D-sized cells. Especially for running both the camera motor and the magazine motor at the same time, I think AAs just aren't enough. Duncan