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Andries Molenaar

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Everything posted by Andries Molenaar

  1. Likely it has a trimmer to set the speed properly. The question is if the 24 fps is in reach of the trimmer. Otherwise things get more difficult. When opening this camera isn't enough difficulty 🙂 . Other cameras have been modified from 18 to 24 fps simply by adjusting the speed-regulator. No need to swap the motor or to soup up the power of the batteries 🙂
  2. This happens rather often with these Silvery Nizo. Some components detoriate in the trigger/run circuit, likely a electrolyte capacitor. A trick is to set to single frame and have on a intervalometer (or manual) and have it triggered for several hunderd frames. Somehow this will revive the component.
  3. I am using my cartridges from stock. Mostly. How real are these troubles with today Kodak cartridges? Haven't they found the problem yet and resolved it? The cause of super-8 jitter is either the cartridge is feeding to difficult or the pick-up drive of the camera has its friction too tight. Or are there other causes?
  4. I rented out an Nikon R10 for that once. Incredible footage from that machine when using proper film and skilled people in a studio. No need to find another camera.
  5. If the Beaulieu cost like 200 film equivalents. The new camera could be considered cheap as it costs 100 film equivalent. Or possibly film is just as affordable.
  6. Here and there they may be a professional filmer with plenty budget but this is going nowhere. Likely they are not going to sell more than from the earlier Logmar which only sold out the beta-serie and only after a long time. BTW NATO is into setting standards for grip equipment?
  7. Never experienced that. The only thing is to use the Foma bleach as single shot. I tested it using a second time immediately after 1st use but it bleached incomplete/poorly. Very artistic but not good.
  8. seems I missed this post 🙂 More or less you can't over-bleach or over-clear. The foma reversal kit works like a charm. The black matter is the anti-reflection layer on the back. This needs to be removed. The Foma bleach does this and produces the brown grit from that.
  9. A nice long list of contents! Graphic design as super as ever 🙂
  10. The rear part is completely different. Is has a different retro-lens/setting and the tube is shorter. Finding an original Leicina edition is the simplest way to go.
  11. Nope, the M flange is way too much forward. I.e. the C lens can't produce sharp images then. Is there a C-lens on M-mount adapter. It would only make sense for lenses without retro-projection and then in a macro set-up.
  12. Clearly it is. The camera shorts the terminals in the connecting point. Take it from there. Best were to find a Sony Walkman with recording opion or a MiniDisc recorder withproper input. Possibly a Digital recording thing wiht a simple iinput exits. I would not start a project of constructing a digital apparatus using Arduine and what more. You will never win back the time and effort. simplest were to record just using a shart ahead, a clapper thing and stop after the scena was filmed. Good luck.
  13. INdeed, the physical apperance is less important 🙂 The cameras supplies a shorting switch. It connects the terminals when running. On classic taperecorders the remote was a switch in serial with the switches in the recorder.
  14. The manual states that the connector can control a tape recorder. In that era it means it will short/connect the terminals when the camera runs. This would be connected to a remote control 2.5mm input of a recorder. On single frame it is fairly useless. ALthough the test flash demonstrates that the camera is working properly. The trick is now to find a recorder which takes such a control or fix two wires inside a recorder or existing remote control with a button when pushed makes it record 🙂
  15. That is what I suggest too. All this overdesigning is not going to pay back. With so many hours spent you are never going to win back over manual control. Good luck.
  16. Apparently the camera has a shorting/making-switch behind the flash contact. Your intended recorder has apparently a serial protocol on its input. So you need to fabricate a circuit/controller which sends proper commands to start and stop the recorder. All from a distance so with conditions 🙂 Good luck and don't short any powersupplies.
  17. It is serial with a protocol, judging by the features. Design for that. Good luck.
  18. Sounds good. Then the mission is to find a recorder with a simple remote input, if these exit. Find a cable from and old flash and connect it to the recorder using a 2.5mm or what is to be found on it.
  19. Good luck, simple would be to use some sort of cable like on late Super-8 camera to control a cassette recorder. Using arduino like things is not simple to most people. If there is no direct outlet on the camera you are busted.
  20. Well, if the Canon has a flash contact to flash every frame it is not intended to control a recorder. You are in for a lot thinkering. If it were a short-contact to drive a recorder it could drive cassettes or tape recorder. It seems digital recorder don't have the same simple shorting inputs. Simplest might be to fix two parallel to the RECORD button and possibly find a place for a receiver-connector on the hill. That might work on the simple Olympus dictaphone here. It would deliver superior audio in comparison to ancient tapes 🙂 Possibly the more expensive one might have remote control input, intended for listening back by the typist. Another option might be to use a portable MINI-DISC-drive. Digital and stereo
  21. This H4n pro doesn't list 2.5mm in the specs. Or are there other specs? It seems this one has a 2.5mm jack for remote control: https://www.tascam.eu/en/dr-40x#specs The CANON has a flash contact with possible lock. Popular in the 60-ies? Best to adapt a flash cable and fix a 2.5mm jack to it. Or what another recorder might require.
  22. Cassette recorder were fairly common to have a 2.5mm remote inlet mini-jack. Often microphone had a 3.5 and 2.5 sife by side on one plug-assembly Are the digital recorders with these same 2.5mm jacks? Possibly the more professional carry on recorders?
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