Heikki Repo

According to the Kodak CES video stream the price of the limited edition Kodak camera that'll be available this Spring is going to be $2000 USD. Standard edition pricing and other details are going to be announced later. EDIT: Nick was a bit faster than me! :)

http://www.andecfilm.de does :)

The cost per one meter is 0.75 EUR. For 400ft of film that'd be about $95 USD. It's not prohibitively expensive -- if magstriping a final spliced, polyester workprint is possible, that is.

According to their price list, Andec still magstripes 16mm acetate and polyester film. Whether or not striping a spliced workprint is possible I don't know.

Fuji has at least Provia 100F available in 120 :)

It's a shame the original trilogy isn't available from stores sans Lucas' changes. A whole generation only knows the post 90s CGI enhanced edition. Fortunately some fans online have made a huge effort and compiled from different sources the original movies. If one knows what to look for, one can find them. The difference even in things like pacing is noteworthy.

Compared to Force Awakens I enjoyed this film much more. The setting was at least coherent (New Order, Rebels, planet size death star built without anyone knowing about it?) and the bad guys were, well, bad and not just ... angsty. And we didn't see people just taking up light sabers for the first time and fight like professionals. Definitely not a masterpiece film but for me it's the first SW film after the first trilogy to have most of the pieces together right.

If the Kodak camera costs $500-700 it's more than worth it. After all, having a Beaulieu 4008 ZM serviced costs easily about 300 (more than $300 USD). For the price I'd get sync audio, very good registration, C-Mount, exposure meter that actually works and sort of a viewfinder system that works with glasses. I'll quite probably buy it. Should work well with the Angenieux f1.2 zoom lens I have.

Roger Evans chimed in about the rocking motion on Super 8mm facebook page: "The rocking motion isn't from the camera. It's from the movie scanner that uses the edge of the sprocket holes for lateral registration instead of the edge of the film. Depending on who perforated the film, some color neg has sprocket holes which are not parallel with the film edge and each sprocket hole has a slight tilt. So, when the scanner reads the right and left edges of the sprocket hole and corrects the orientation digitally, the edges end up being straight but the image rocks back and forth. If this same test had been performed with older reversal from the 70s or so, it would have been much steadier because the perfs on that stock were quite good with little variation. Also, if this same film were transferred on a scanner that reads the edge of the film and not the sprocket holes for lateral registration, there would be no rocking motion." https://www.facebook.com/groups/27648968851/permalink/10155611642373852/?comment_id=10155611959068852&notif_t=group_comment&notif_id=1482225433424871

That rocking motion is definitely weird.

Here's first test footage shot with the new Kodak super-8 camera

Well, that comes from the mechanical engineer of the Logmar S-8 camera....

Back to the new super-8 camera -- today Tommy Madsen posted on Facebook Super 8mm page the following comment to a thread on the GK pressure plate (bolding by me): "GK Film holds a still valid patent on this so unless you want a world of legal pain I wouldn't go down that alley as I'm sure they would defend their patent (why else have one) Instead of trying to fix it from the cartridge point of view I would look at purchasing a camera that employs techniques for registering the cartridge jitter. The Logmar S8 did this by not using the cartridge at all but it was a nightmare to load as you had to Thread the camera. The new upcoming Kodak camera has a much better more ingenious design than the Logmar S8 in terms of registration which uses the cartridge "as is" but even still creates an image on par or in some cases slightly better than the Logmar S8. That's the camera I would wait for." https://www.facebook.com/groups/27648968851/

I tried to find information about them a few months ago. I don't remember how I reached my conclusion, but I think they aren't in the business anymore -- probably retired.

The good thing is, at least on Twitter Kodak is assuring us that the camera is "coming soon, stay tuned": :) https://twitter.com/Kodak_ShootFilm/status/801770819647049729

Well, there is this: http://www.filmshooting.com/scripts/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=27144&start=15#p218432

Hi Petter, you are correct, your personal rating of the film stock is only for your use when metering. As for processing, unless you specify some special processing (push/pull) they'll just process it normally. You really cannot order push/pull for some parts of film unless it is on a separate core/spool. There is no best-light or scene-by-scene developing. You yourself have to know how you have exposed your film and order accordingly. If you expose a negative correctly and ask for 1 stop push, it'll be overexposed. :)

It's not ideal, I agree. The reason why I'm looking for one is that I scored for my personal use an ACL 2 and the handgrip was sold separately (!). I was thinking about using handgrips that connect to the 15mm rods on my S16 ACL and taking that old style handgrip from it but I'm not entirely sure if the handgrips on rods give the sturdiest feel, considering that the bridge plate that holds the rods could shift a little. Perhaps if I added something between my S16 ACL and the bridge plate to increase friction...?

Looking for a handgrip like this:

Here's my latest work, released today. It's at the same time a short horror / comedy and promo for a website on Reformation aimed at young adults. Most of the film is super16, Vision3 500T and 250D. Eclair ACL, Optar Illumina lenses. Ending of the film was shot with a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera and an Angenieux 9.5-57mm. :)

Tri-X is processed by many labs, K40 on the other hand can only be processed as black and white and only by few labs. Take a look: http://www.gaugefilm.co.uk/store/c4/Reversal_Processing.html https://www.super8.nl/english/e_index.htm

I can only recommend Andec's super-8 prints from Vision3 negatives. They look great :) At the moment I'm also expecting to get some super-8 reduction prints from 16mm negs back from Andec. Excited to see the results!

In the end I was able to solve my problem with a Nikon F100 -5.0 diopter. I just taped it with electrical tape to the viewfinder and voila! All woes gone. Very nice amateur solution for an amateur camera. I also noticed that ditching my small 20mm Som Berthiot C-mount lens and replacing it with an Olympus OM to C-mount adapter and SLR primes made focusing much more comfortable. With the former I really couldn't tell if the image was in focus or not...

Already sold? Does it fit over 400ft mags? :) Not competing with Carl, but should he not want to buy it for some reason..

According to Bernie too tight screws do not let the motor to move (vibrate freely enough?) and thus the mini ITT connector can be under stress and break off from the motor. ...or something like that, he told this over the phone so I don't have it in writing. Anyway, he cautioned me against tightening the screws too much should I again remove the motor myself.