Joseph Tese

Efficacy (Lumen to watt ratio) of LEDs is constantly changing and getting better over time. Every LED manufacturer has different efficacy ratings, meaning a 300watt from one brand could be brighter or less bright from another company boasting the same/similar wattage. This fact alone means it’s better to judge light by ftcandles , lux etc.

You can experiment with a simple wooden frame (or two stacked an inch or so apart like the picture). Maybe you can shear different levels of light diff by running a blade through them vertically, to mimick varying intensities of light. You can probably dirty the diff as well. But, why not just make the real thing? Pick up an actual cheap window with a frame pattern you like and also has the glass and dirty it up? There’s spray that is meant to stick to windows to make it seem frosted. Maybe that mixed with little particles (sand, etc). I’m sure it will take some experimenting. A good art dep person might have some great ideas, too.

Intellytech has generally worked well for me in the past, when careful about how I implement them. Mainly used the f165 bicolor fresnels. Cons: The build quality is okay, the warmer cct seems a little off. I also noticed (to the eye) ugreen renditions at super low dimming percentage (like 1%), but would like to do testing and comparisons with a color meter. Other than that, it’s pretty great for what you get at the price point. Dont know about the lights you’re looking at, they could be newer and an improvement color quality wise.

Yes, you can lower the lights to get “more power”, but at a potential compromise in a desired aesthetic. You can only push it too far before it enters the frame, fall off is unnatural, too “toppy”, etc

Ended up making a slit into some plywood. Was originally going to throw a bolt through it, but chain vide grip was more secure. Worked great!

Thanks for the reply JD. space is pretty big. Maybe I could attempt to speed rail between the brick columns, but there’s not a lot of surface there. What if i “speed C” on one of the brick columns?

Thank you all very much.

What if I had a cartellini like this, or something similar where the threaded rod was open/at the endhttps://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1482663-REG/cardellini_2r_right_angle_clamp.html/?ap=y&gclid=CjwKCAjw_-D3BRBIEiwAjVMy7IFtXp5QBix9UsLz4JUh04SszhICCX7VkgTuQxIBeNw7IF8cbUlS9BoCfOUQAvD_BwE&lsft=BI%3A514&smp=y then, place the rod end through one of the eye bolts, and I can put two washers on either side of the eyebolt and secure them with a locknut. Thoughts?

See the two eye bolts in pic below? I want to rig a 1k tungsten between them. I was thinking of putting a piece of steel pipe/tube (small diamoeter that would fit) inside, then just cardellini to the fixtures the only thing is the tube would most likely swing or rotate inside the bolts, relying the positioning of the fixture to “rest on the wall”. I would rather have a more secure and confident way to angle the light as needed. Do you have any suggestions?

I think this might have answered my question? http://www.ocon.com/inspiration/labs/rod-standards-explained/

Hello, I have a temporary solution for a shoot.. I was able to mount the C200 to a red rail system.. Odd right? But are different rail systems made for different cameras to get the lens to the standard height that will accept a mattebox? My fear is that the c200 is not hte right height to accept a mattebox correctly. I don't have a box to test right at the moment, nevertheless I think good knowledge to know. Thanks for the help - Usually I stick to building light systems and not cameras :)

Wow! Very interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing. It’d be interesting to see some third party tests and techniques to see how that’s practical and its effects on commonly used lights.

I have actually have recently been thinking about this a lot - And since there's so many softpanels on the market, I've been wondering why there wasn't at least a third party focusing lens like this offered for common form factors, or why it's not a standard offering from the panels themselves. The first thing I think of is Arri's intensifier, which essentially does the same thing. It tightens up the beam angle and concentrates the amount of light in front of the fixture. To me, the advantage here is not only the "increased amount" of light, but also probably greater efficiency (less-light loss) than what you'd get with a grid/honeycomb. Generally, I think it may be the case you don't get as much control as a grid. Aadyntech uses the same concept for their punch fixture, to achieve similar versatility as you'd want with a fresnel, via plastic focusing lenses. https://www.adorama.com/atpchlen055.html

Here’s my take: The older LEDs had more distinct differences in color and quality, but now most reputable lighting fixtures are much closer in these areas, where most could be used on the same set and in the same scene (Usually for different purposes.) example, if the inventory allows, I usually have the same brand for scene modeling, and same for backlight, and same for key, etc. If combining for the same “source” - The diffusion will certainly help blend them together, especially if they’re covering the same area of the diff. However, you’re also talking about blending a natively soft fixture with a 300d, which can be hardish. Generally speaking, I can see how one would want the same type of optics blowing through the same diff to get consistent shadows (I certainly would).

Thank you Phil and David!

This might be a noobish question, but it is asked to better understand how color rendition quality of LEDs (and I guess others as well) affect the luminance/quality of color values on objects. For example, I've always assumed that because of lacking R9 (and similar) values, skin tones will not show up "well". What specifically does it result in? A literal lack of color information resulting in lower saturation? Digital pixelation? Lower luminance for certain values? Let's say I want to photograph an object or talent knowing I want to convert it to B&W in post. If I use the worst kind of LEDs imaginable (missing Red values, spiked greens, etc) to light talent, will there be lower or brighter areas depending on the colors on the object/talent? OR - does light (Regardless of color quality) illuminate the object without bias, and when converting to B&W, it makes the original light source quality irrelevant.

Like 10 of them to meet the voltage? ?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554344-REG/Manfrotto_120_120_Converter_Plate_for.html/specs It looks like this is essentially the reverse of the Acratech one. I believe it has the 3/8" female instead of the male, so you can use a reducer on that side and have 1/4" on both ends. Not sure about the height though

Hello, Usually I'm operating lights only with AC. But want to be prepared for mobile applications requiring more DC power The lights I often come across have DC ranges from 14.4v, 26v, 48v (I think the skypanels are the only ones that use 48?, but usually powered by 26v bricks and the plate has a transformer?? If that's the case that's interesting because I didn't know a transformer could double the voltage like that) Basically, what's the most common DC solutions available? AB has a larger brick solution, the Cine VCLX to switch voltage. I like solutions like this because it means it will be more universal and more WH. Block battery seems to market similar solutions but heavier and larger WH. https://blockbattery.com/block-batteries/ So far I'm liking the block batteries, but wanted to hear any other user's thoughts. Additionally, it'd be really cool to get a super high WH solution with an inverter, to power larger wattage 120v AC only lights...like a j800. Any precautions there? I would also like to see if anyone DIY'd a bunch of deep cell batteries and inverter to a dolly and would like to see their build!

I actually picked up a couple from batteries and bulbs in the us, the guy was surprised it was still around. You could tell it was older packaging. They’re on amazon, too! (E26 to e39) https://www.amazon.com/DiCUNO-Adapter-Converter-Maximum-Resistant/dp/B07GZD3N4R You never really know the color quality without testing , I doubt the corn bulb you listed is manufactured to account for the values that matter to us, too (like r9, etc).

I have an older 5 Socket screw-in Edison fixture that I'm thinking about putting LEDs in. I was surprised to find my options limited for bright LED bulbs that have passable color quality. It'd be cool to get high-quality LEDs in cornbulb style lights that draw around 100 Watts. - I feel like the technology is here, but there's probably not enough incentive to manufacture a consumer style socket past using it for practicals (which don't need to be that bright) These are the brightest I can find. Anyone have any other thoughts? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1480946-REG/raya_e26_led_45_45_watt_led_bulb.html/overview

If you really wanted to try a diy solution, Maybe a furni-burrito or two with a belt or some sort of strap.. But I would suspect some level of frustration to happen and it coming apart. So, probably worth the investment in one of the solutions AJ pointed out.

Screws can work, but i believe the blocks were designed for bolts and of using thin wood the bolts will be more secure. The bolts go in through the front, then you use a washer and nut on the back. The hex opening in the front prevents it from turning, just use the right size bolt.

What are you rigging to? Are you int or ext? I did something kind of similar very recently. I discussed it in this thread We used 6 chain hoists to lift the box and attach to the roof truss.

hmm.. Because efficiency/speed is your goal and you have one lift, my impression is that you will have to rely more on natural light through the windows? If you're okay with that look, and focusing more on shaping the light inside.