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Found 27 results

  1. I have never dealt with Cinelab before. I was mainly interested in their Xena 2k scans as they are better at reading underexposure and I was running and gunning at night and mainly just using a beater handheld cam I acquired and was more of a camera/scratch test and comparing scans to a certain degree. I sent in 100' of 7219 to be processed and scanned at 2k thinking this would cost around $70. I initially selected DPX but the decided ProRes would be more than fine. I tried to call and emailed Robert as soon as it went out and said I didn't update the order form to ProRes my apologies. There is no drive. I would just like an upload to Dropbox in ProRes and because I am not particularly attached to the negatives, I didn't include return shipping. Days later no response. Filled out their order form which said nothing about minimums on it and they pricing sheets are somewhat unclear and very scattered. I didn't think twice about it and figured if they had a problem they would call or reach out. I woke up this am to $161 charge. Thinking this was a mistake I reached out with an email with my form attached and also in line with the previous emails I sent before. This was the response I got: HI Charges were: $115 min charge for process and a 2K scan 2.00 for DPX frames $30 for a thumb drive for DPX frames (we don't upload DPX) $14 for UPS shipping. I can change that to ProRes and do an upload which will save $32 So 100' of 7219 cost me $161 because they never saw the email that I sent and also just started assuming things and billed me for items and services that I never was asked about. I understand that my order form was initially filled out incorrect but I tried to call and email to no avail. This honestly could have just been taken care of with a phone call or email to clarify, especially if there is no drive, no request for a drive to be purchased and at least have this brought to my attention. I talked to a few other DPs and asked them what they thought. "Shady as hell" seemed to be the general consensus.
  2. Hello everyone, My friend Fred and I wanted to go out and do a camera test on my ARRICAM. My other friend and her dog were in town visiting at the time, and we thought they had a cool story to tell. One thing led to another, we ended up making this tiny little documentary call Zema. Check it out if you are interested: Shot in one day with only available light. Tested 6fps, 24fps and 48fps on Kodak 5207 and 5219 stock with Zeiss Superspeeds MKIII. Film processed at the Kodak lab Pinewood Studios. Would love to hear your thoughts. Share it if you like it! Cheers, and have a nice day! Tsering
  3. "The number of ads shot on film and processed at Cinelab doubled in 2018 to around 350, and there was an increase in pop promos to 50-plus, many shot on Super 8 and Super 16 as well as 35mm." https://www.broadcastnow.co.uk/tech/film-stages-digital-fightback/5135915.article#.XEHdhn_xPh0.twitter So film is far from dead.
  4. Great news for film enthusiasts in Australiasia! Archives New Zealand has reached a deal with Park Road Post Production to take ownership of all film laboratory equipment and set up a new film processing laboratory here in Wellington, New Zealand! This has been approved by the NZ government and is to serve Archives in finishing all their restoration needs in the coming years, but also to provide processing for public use. The Archives are taking the ECN and both B+W Neg and Pos machines (No ECP), a number of printers, cleaners etc. This will be a full service laboratory, employing most of the same people from Park Road. Slated to open around the end of October/start of December 2013. If you have any questions, I'll be glad to try and answer. Cheers, Chris. http://www.stuff.co.nz/entertainment/film/8851876/Lab-deal-gives-rare-Kiwi-films-new-life
  5. Because the demise of Kodak B&W Plus-X emulsion (31), shooting B&W film outside is challenging. 5222/7222 is the only Kodak B&W camera stock. Outside it is has an exposure index of 250. In the test described below the daylight was metered at 8,000 foot-candles. At 24fps this would require a f stop setting of around f64, or a very dark ND filter. Most lenses are sharpest at about 2 stops from open, this is impossible for 22 outside without using an ND15 or ND18 to get f5.6 or below. The contrast of direct sunlight & shadows is a struggle for any photographic medium. 5234 B&W duplicate negative is an intermediate film and is quite slow. 34 has a gamma less than one making it suitable to shoot and print. It is also panchromatic and available in acetate 16mm or 35mm. For the test it was rated at EI 6 for D96 processing. Test Information Film Information 5222 Kodak B&W 35mm DOUBLE-X Negative $0.444 per foot Exposure Index: EI 200(Tungsten) 250(Daylight) 5234 Kodak Panchromatic B&W Duplicate Negative $0.391 per foot Exposure Index: Rated EI 6 for test. Lighting Direct mid day sunlight - Metered @ 8000 fc Camera Setup Mitchell Super 35mm High Speed 4 perf 75mm prime lens 5222: f11 ND9 @ 24fps 1/48sec 5234: f5.6 @24fps 1/48sec Processing Kodak D96 B&W Negative Process Transfer Spirit 2K HD 1080P 23.98 1.78 extraction da vinci 2K+ DVNR2K Settings constant for both transfers. The results of the test were the following: The grain structure and response of 5234 is clearly finer. It is a very smooth image and out performs the 5222 outside. It is availible from Kodak in both 35mm and 16mm. We will do a test of 16mm soon, I am sure the diffrence will be even more dramatic. While this stock would be hard to shoot indoors, outside it is beautiful. If processed D97 is would have an exposure index of about 18 allowing for less direct sunlight. It is also cheaper 5222 $0.444 vs 5234 $0.391 per foot. Please right click and save as to see the test video. Youtube upload didnt show a good comparison.
  6. Hi All, I was just wondering whether anyone would be able to comment on their experiences with both Cinelab London and iDailies. Ideally, I'm looking for those who have used both companies and would be able to provide some kind of comparison. I understand that the differences between the two will mostly boil down to pricing and service, but I wondered whether their telecines and scans differed at all. (They do both, Cinelab in particular, have a number of option with regards to the type of scan they will give you - HD, 2K Spirit, 4K, etc.) I'd be interested to know also whether people are mainly shooting 16mm or 35mm these days. I am planning to shoot a short up in the North York Moors so if anyone has any suggestions for any labs nearer to Yorkshire that would be great, although I am not sure that there are any left! Thank you all for your help! Cheers, Shahid
  7. Hello All! New user here and I'm hoping this great community can help me out. For the past week, I have been desperately trying to find a comprehensive and complete guide to processing Kodak Super 8 Tri-X 7266 at home. I can't seem to find any localized complete source of information on how to do this--while I've been able to find what sort of materials I'd need, the chemistry bit seems really though to understand. There seems to be multiple opinions on what sort of chemistry to use, but no real guide on how to do it or which chemistry works best. Now to be honest, I've never developed reversal film at home before--however, I do have a darkroom, and have been devleoping my own still film (black and white and color) since I was about 13 (I'm 25 now.) I've been shooting Super 8 (and Reg. 8, and some 16 here and there) for a long time now, and I'm to the point where I'm shooting so much of it, I think it might make sense to invest up front in the materials to develop at least Super 8 Tri-X at home. I should also say: I'm not a chemist--I have a degree in English, so I took 1 chemistry class in all of my education--and it was the history of chemicals--so my ability to understand how chemistry works is pretty sad, to be honest--I know how to follow mixing instructions on bottles and packets--that's about it! I'm just interested in processing the film for reversal results--I'm not interested in cross processing or anything 'artistic'--I'd like to just reproduce the results from the lab, if at all possible Can anyone provide a resource that goes over exactly what chemicals to use to process Super 8 Tri-X 7266 (and possibly where to buy them), mixing instructions, and processing times? I would be forever in your debt! Here's my materials list: -Chemistry -Spiral Lomo Tank -Containers for chemistry? -100 or 300 watt bulb -Drying device (Morse Drying Drum (or similar) Thanks to all for your time and help! Owen - Cleveland.
  8. Hey everyone! So I live in NYC and I've been shooting Super 8 as a fairly serious hobby since last summer. I love it. This forum has been a source of so much info. I've already bought several cameras, shot vacations, field trips, events, etc. Problem obviously is it ain't cheap! And even more of an issue is minimums. Given that I don't normally shoot 4+ rolls at a time, I've been forced to wait for weeks if not months while I slowly shoot more rolls until I meet the minimums. I've gotten developing from Spectra with their film+processing packs for ~$40/roll but that of course doesn't include shipping to/from costs then I have to ship it out for HD telecine unless I do it somewhere in NYC but to be honest, I prefer the pro places as their quality and turnaround is been way better than local in my opinion. Moving on, I've also just bought film locally at B&H/Adorama for ~$38/roll or Du-All for ~$32/roll then sending for processing/scanning at CineLab. That's probably my cheapest method I've found since Spectra scanning is pricey!! Anyways, even with that, I run into the minimum issue with CineLab and Spectra. With $ minimums around 200ft for processing and $150 for HD scanning, that's around 6 or even 8+ rolls before I hit the minimum. I've gotten as low as 6 rolls telecined at CineLab for around $125 which is below their minimum but I guess they just shrugged their shoulders and did it when I mailed the package. All in all, if done right and hitting minimums, I can get a roll bought/processed/scanned for around $70 if not a little less including all the shipping. I know Spectra has their "Rank-A-Roll" packages but those are pretty steep in price in comparison to doing it normally. (~$105/roll) And Yale has its "Reel Deal" packages which are $125/roll. I've also (early on in my tests) gotten 2 rolls developed and scanned as a "Test Roll" from CineLab for around $90 but I'm not sure they'd let me do that every time. So all that to say... you guys have any advice as far as best quality/price balance for low volume Super 8? Does no one else run into this issue? You guys just always shooting 10 rolls at a time? haha. Help a budget filmmaker/enthusiast out!! I know I'm kinda asking for the moon here with film costs these days but the cheaper I can get my methods, the more I will shoot! And I'm always itching to shoot more film! (Also I am very eager to hear more details about Kodak's new S8 packages in the fall. Seems like that would fix my issues if the price is right) Sorry for the wall of text. Slow day at work haha.
  9. Hey crew, Hope this isn't against any rules but figured if there was ever an audience for this, it's everyone here. So I just wanted to spread the word and ask for help for an amazing cinema arts organization here in NYC. It's called Mono No Aware and its director, Steve Cossman, has been running really fantastic 8mm and 16mm film based workshops and screenings in NYC and honestly all over the country and world for 10 years now. Most of those workshops have been out of its directors apartment in Brooklyn as well as NYC-based community darkrooms. I just want to be clear... I don't work for Mono No Aware or Steve. And have only taken a few workshops from MNA (like the 500T reversal one I documented here or b&w caffenol non-toxic processing or b&w reversal) which I loved and made me really fall in love with the format and the tangible aspect of it. Anyways, Mono No Aware is running a kickstarter to start the world's first motion picture non-profit lab here in Brooklyn, NYC to help the artist community and grow that community as well. It will feature lots of capbilities like processing, 2k scanning, rentals and more workshop space. From projects like Impossible Project's film and camera, New 55/New55 Color instant film, Film Ferrania, Kodak's new camera/processing and other film based projects, a lot of really awesome things are happening in film now that things are leveling out in terms of digital adoption. Let's make it happen! (Also donate to New55 Color if you can! I don't even have a 4x5 but donated to help keep peelapart alive) Here's a bit of info directly from the kickstarter but check it out and donate what you can. If there was ever an organization that deserves some filmmakers cash, it's MNA and Steve Cossman. That man puts his life and soul into making it thrive. MONO NO AWARE is a cinema-arts non-profit organization working to promote connectivity through the cinematic experience and preserve the technologies of traditional motion picture filmmaking. In 2015 MONO NO AWARE Organized 38 Local workshops for 420 workshop participants in Brooklyn Traveled to lead 40 Classes and lectures at host institutions for 600 participants through outreach programs Facilitated 100+ equipment rentals Distributed 50,000 feet of film stock for 1,000's of filmmakers Presented 20 artist-in person screenings for 1,000 audience members Presented the work of 33 international artists at our 9th annual exhibition to an audience of 900 over 2 nights The MONO Lab will be unique because in addition to our strong educational initiative and active screening series, we will be able to offer the services of a commercial lab, affordable facilities for continued practice, and we will increase our ability to host international artists for production of new work and presentation opportunities. With the equipment donations from a major motion picture lab, professional animation studios, and several post-production facilities, we now have the ability to provide so much more--all under one roof. With our space we can become self sustaining in our efforts to engage and play a larger supporting role within that landscape on all levels. OUR GOAL The more that we can raise through this campaign the more we can make available to a greater number of people. Increased services and facilities will include: SUPER 16MM & SUPER 8MM LINEAR PROCESSING FOR B/W & COLOR NEGATIVE FILM SUPER 16MM CLEANING AND SCANNING SERVICES SUPER 16MM & SUPER 8MM CAMERAS / LENSES / PROJECTORS / INCREASED PRODUCTION EQUIPMENT ACCESS & SPACE DRY LAB SPACE - OPTICAL PRINTING / CONTACT PRINTING / FLATBED EDITING & VERTICAL EDITING STATIONS WET LAB SPACE - WITH 24 - HOUR ACCESS TO FACILITIES INCREASED PROGRAMMING / WORKSHOPS / SCREENINGS / RESIDENCIES This is a critical point in the history of the moving image. With your help, we can make this new space a reality. Mono No Aware is a 501©(3) organization, which means your donation is tax deductable. So ya. There's my plea. I'm donating. Hope you do too! And be sure and take a workshop if you're ever in NYC!
  10. So I shot a roll of Kodak 50D and 200T while on faction in mexico and recently sent the film out for processing and scanning. Yale Film and Video did the the work and called me when they were doing the telecine to ask if I had gotten my film wet since it was showing spots across both rolls. They checked the rolls that were processed before and after me and said the issue wasn't present and it was just my film. According to the lab, the spots were present on the emulsion side of the film if you examine with a loupe. I did not get the film wet so I'm not sure what happened? Screenshots of the issue are below. The spots move around so its not a lens or filter issue. My theories are: humidity? heat while film was in camera and in my backpack in 100 degree mexico melting emulsion? grease from the camera gate? the film got wet while in the mail? condensation after removing film from fridge before loading? Any help would be appreciated -Chris film spot 2.tiff
  11. Hey folks, My school likes to go through color lab for film processing/telecines, but it seems as though they are limited only (as evidenced by the telecine form) to 4:3 and 16:9 Aspect Ratios. Shooting on Super 16, I framed for the native AR of 1.66 and would prefer not to crop the top and bottom of my frames -- even if it's still "...the same basic shape" as they put it. Are there any other easy to use/ship to and quality labs that can telecine our rolls at a 1.66? Thanks in advance! Any help is appreciated.
  12. Photoshop levels applied to boost blacks, gentle low-pass filter added to increase sharpness. Maybe my best Tri-X test so far, and a good alternative to the previous gritty Rodinal (APH09) look. I like the poetry in this frame. Out of focus, perhaps due to the fact it is a hand-held panning shot, made in haste whilst the sun broke through he clouds. Of course HC110 is cheap and has a long shelf-life. My sealed glass bottles are now over 2 years old. Note. Pan X in HC110 lacked compared to APH09, so this is a nice surprise. Next up will be D19, later in the week, But maybe it will be hard to match this.
  13. Hello, I have a short film shoot set to go to camera early November and we're shooting on Kodak 35mm film. There's a particular scene involving two characters who go out for a night in the city and involves them running through the streets, in china town shops, and restaurants. We've set aside 5219 for those scenes and will be shooting on Zeiss Super Speeds but I'm worried it still won't be enough. So I've thought about push processing. The look of push processing would also aid the story as everything is supposed to feel heightened for the characters. I've never attempted it before so I wanted to see if anyone could help answer some questions: - Does push processing actually get you more image in the blacks or just simply up the contrast? - How many stops should one push to get clear characteristics of push processing (grain, contrast, saturation). I've heard that modern stocks need to be really pushed to their limits before seeing clear results? - Considering I'm shooting 500T, how do I rate the stock for each additional stop? +1 = 1000, +2 = 2000? - Is it even worth it to get the effect chemically or can the same results be achieved in the DI? Thanks for the help! Chris
  14. Not a very uplifting update from Ferrania. It's beginning to sound like there was very little pre-planning from the start. http://www.filmferrania.it/news/2015/the-domino-effect
  15. I have a 16mm processing machine for disposal - made by Arri for ECN-2 process, in storage in Devon. Needs to go immediately. Mostly complete and relatively easy to move due to the modular construction. It's been in storage for a few years. Anyone interested? otherwise it gets recycled. Images available on request.
  16. I'm set to shoot a short film set in 1973 on the Blackmagic Cinema Camera and my goal was to make it look as close to period as possible. I figured since shooting on film wasn't in the budget, I would see about using the film-out process. I've done some research and could only find FotoKem and ColorLab that do that sort of processing. ColorLab seems most promising at the moment, but is slightly pricy. Are there any other companies out there that do film-out that I've overlooked? Also, I do realize the film stock they would use wouldn't help very much at all to make the short look like it was shot in the 70s. What I was hoping for is, I'd love to send in my own film stock for it to be printed onto so it will achieve the right look. I just don't know if that's a possibility because I don't know much about the process. If anyone has advice on what I'm trying to achieve it would be much appreciated. I thought about shooting on 70s lenses, but film-out seemed like it would make the most difference without just slapping a filter on.
  17. Salutations, I'm very new to this whole Super 8 craze. I'm going to shoot some video with expired 8mm Kodachrome 40 and I need it both processed and digitized. There are tons of services online for this. Does anyone know what the most reliable and cheapest option is? I'm not looking for uber quality, just decency. Thanks, Liam
  18. For a 10 minute Super 35 movie with probably 25 minutes of film that will be processed, what is the best format to recieve that processing back in for best editing? I don't have an editor, so I don't know what the editor would require the content to be in or what's mainstream these days. I know there are several formats, and it has evolved over the years, but something this small, can it just be put on a disk, or does it have to be put on a hard drive or tape. Final question, is there anything special I need to tell the lab to make sure I get the best results back? Thank you for sharing your expertise, Alexander
  19. Guest

    Cinelabs London group visit

    Myself and John Holland will be taking a tour of Cinelabs, one of the two boutique film labs in London, on the 13th November to see their recently revamped facilities. If anyone would like to join us you'd be more then welcome, please let me know here and I'll add your name to the list.
  20. Hello, I am trying to sort through what was done to get the blinds to be green while the light through the window is blue. Where does the green come from? Is it light? Or something else. When I see this my instinct is believe that maybe a light with CTB is outside, and the window shades are actually green, but the blinds are the same color as the string, which suggest that something else might be going on. So looking at this image that has been timed differently or is behind the scenes, it appears to be a rather typical lighting setups going on. Here is the actual scene. It appears that there is a different light in the corner of the room, lighting the wall. Maybe it is slightly CTO and then the film processing make yellow things appear green?? If that is the case, does that man that the blinds from the first picture are actually yellow? With CTB gelled light shining through the windows. And some type of process makes the films yellows turn green? My hypothesis is based o this picture of a table light that is green. What does everyone else think? I have more experience with lighting than post production, and film developing.
  21. Hi All, I currently want to shoot some 16mm Tri-X for an experimental film I'm making. I'm going to do bucket processing, but I want to bucket process as a negative. I keep reading in onine and in other forums here that if you shoot reversal film and want to process as a negative you need to overexpose a little bit when filming. Since I'm shooting this in daylight and the EI for daylight is 200, I was wondering what I should rate my film at. Should I overexpose by 1 stop or 2 stops etc. or would processing it for longer work also? Thanks for the help!
  22. Hi all, I've recently finished shooting a music video on 4-perf 35mm, 5219. I'm about to send the film off for processing/transfer and I'm sort of stuck as to whether I should get an HD telecine or a 2k scan. The price difference given the amount of film I'm working with is not that large of a concern. My lab of choice (the wonderful Video and Film Solutions in Maryland) uses a Spirit for both. Now obviously, as it's a music video, it'll only ever be viewed on computer screens, so I'm sure the difference won't be too drastic between the two, but there are still some factors to consider. First off, a solid amount of the video is shot in a city (Richmond, VA) at night, with only available light, meaning I was basically consistently rating the film at around 2000 ASA, sometimes higher. So grain will definitely be an issue, and on top of that, I plan on pushing a few of the rolls 1 stop. From my previous experience with 2k scans, it seems as if the higher resolution relative to HD makes grain seem even more apparent in scans than it does in telecine, so would the combination of the thin negative, the push, and the 2k scan make the grain way too intense? I understand that "way too intense" is a vague quantifier, so I guess to put it a bit better, would I be better off in terms of keeping the grain at a manageable level (given the negative that I'll be working with) with an HD telecine or a 2k scan? And I guess in a more general sense, what would be the advantages (or disadvantages) of going with 2k in this situation? Also, this may be a stupid question, but just to clarify my understanding, it's definitely possible to maintain the 1:33 aspect ratio with an HD telecine, right? Any time I've previously had HD telecine of 35mm it's been automatically cropped by the lab to conform to a 1920x1080 frame. But theoretically wouldn't it be possible to maintain the full 4-perf frame with no cropping if I specifically instructed the lab and just have bars on the left and right of the frame? The film was framed for and always intended to be presented in that format. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Dylan
  23. Ok, this is my first film shot with motion picture film. I read as much as I could about it a jumped right in. This weekend we filmed a very fun and cheesy, short for a Zombie Film Challenge. I'll be sending the footage to the lab on Tuesday. I had a relatively simple one-location story (my garage) with the lighting you see in the photo. In the back, the large white square on the ceiling to the far right behind the practical is a 250 watt Lowel Pro Light. In front there is a 500 Watt Lowel Omni Light and to the far right a 1000 watt Strand Bambino Fresnel on full. I didn't use my light meter. :( I felt a bit unprepared and rushed. I shot with the 16mm Switar wide open the whole time. I may have shot a few seconds with the Switar preset 10mm but that lens for some reason seems confusing to me even though I've read how to use it. I shot most of the garage scenes on Vison 500T and some on Vision 200T and one on Vision3 200T. My question is do you think I should order 1 - 2 stop Push processing for the garage footage given the film stock used, the lighting conditions and me shooting wide open? Thanks.
  24. Hello everyone, I'll be shooting a short film this month, for which I need to emulate the look of an early b&w silent film. It is a bold look but has to be watcheable as the entire movie is shot this way. I'll be shooting on Super 16, and was considering a couple options regarding film stock and processing: - Shooting black and white directly on 7222 stock, exposing normally. I like the idea, the stock is naturally grainy, but the dynamic range is quite limited. - Shooting 200T 7213, under-exposing the neg and then push-processing by one stop. Black and white would be done in post. It is risky, as the image is probably going to be grainy, high-contrast and the blacks will be muddy ; but I was thinking all of this would help "sell" the look. - Shooting 500T 7219, over-exposing 2/3 stop and then pull-processing. Black and white done in color grading as well. I like the idea of keeping color information to grading, and this looks like the safest option to me. As far as lenses and diffusion is concerned, it will be a series of old superspeeds, which I will be diffusing with something like a Glimmerglass or a black soft net. I know I should shoot tests, and I will. But I'd be glad to hear your opinions and if you think there's an obviously better option. Thanks ! G.C.
  25. The Cambridge SUPER 8 Group is running a workshop to shoot and develop a roll of Tri-X black&white movie film as negative Week-end of the 25/26thJanuary 2014/Cambridge, maximum of 6 participants Starts at 10:00 am to 5pm both days This include one cartridge of Tri-X Super 8 film (runs 3 minutes), development chemistry, loan of camera, and telecine transfer to DVD ● Join us in a two-day DIY workshop in which you learn the basics of using a Super 8 movie camera, see some monochrome masterpieces from our worldwide archive to inspire you, devise a shooting plan, then take the leap of irrevocably filling those 3500 tiny frames with rich monochrome Kodak magic. We loan the camera, you provide the imagination! ● The next day, we’ll hit the darkroom – a real one. Using a special spiral (a challenge in itself!), each film is loaded into a developing tank to be soused with chemistry, stopwatch in hand, washed, unrolled and hung up to dry, as you see your efforts appear in full effect like a hatching dragonfly. ● Each film will be run through a vintage projector to shine your unique and permanent image on a screen for the first time. Later you’ll get a positive-image telecine digital file to edit as you please - plus your original 50’ of unique film to last for… 50 years? 100 years? Longer than your digital media will ever survive? Something for your grandchildren, as the legacy of real film already is in our own time? To register interest contact us via the website http://www.cambridge-super8.org/2013/12/10/super-8-workshop-in-january-2014/
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