Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Repair'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Cinematography Forums
    • General Discussion
    • News & Press Releases
    • Lighting
    • Camera Operating
    • AC's & DIT's
    • Grip & Rigging
    • Visual Effects Cinematography
    • Grading, DI and Telecine
    • Students and New Filmmakers
    • Cameras Systems and Formats
    • Lenses & Lens Accessories
    • Camera Accessories & Tools
    • Film Stocks & Processing
    • Books for the Cinematographer
    • Cinematographers
    • In Production
    • On Screen
    • Cine Marketplace
    • Business Practices
    • Jobs, Resumes, and Reels
    • Please Critique My Work
    • Regional Cinematography Groups
  • Not Cinematography
    • Producing
    • Directing
    • Sound
    • Editing
    • Off-Topic
    • Forum Support

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


Skype


Location


My Gear


Specialties

Found 23 results

  1. Hi, I have been looking everywhere and have found absolutely NOTHING on how to tear and and repair/lubricate old C and S mount cine lenses by Kodak and Schneider. These lenses aren't worth the cost of sending out, but are too expensive to toss. I'd love to learn how to work on them. If anyone has videos, manuals, advice or links to help, I'd be VERY grateful. John
  2. Hi Guys, I own a Krasnogorsk K-3, I purely use it for fun, not professionally. I've put about three rolls through it at this stage, and although I'm happy with the quality of the footage, I notice a large dust build up on all the the footage, as well as some continuous straight scratching on the right side of the film. Have been quoted £400 to have the camera professionally cleaned and serviced, but it's not worth that so I'm not really willing to fork out that much just for a camera that I use for fun. Was wondering if anyone here has experience of cleaning this camera themselves? And if they could give any advice to potentially fixing this at home? I gave the camera a good blow with compressed air, and a little brush the last time I put a roll through it, but still got the recurring issues. Any other help would be massively appreciated! I have attached some images for reference. Best, Jack
  3. Recently I took a chance on a Nikon R-10 on eBay. I love these cameras and the price seemed right . 
 
 Camera arrived this week, looks to be in excellent shape , (physically/cosmetically I'd rate it "Near Mint - "like new" ) , motor sounds smooth, everything seems to work (I shot a test roll and will have that back in a week or two, which should reveal any problems, notably the light meter) 
 
 However, I noticed on a few shots that the auto-exposure seemed to be "sticking" at times ... the needle didn't always move smoothly along the f-stop scale in the viewfinder as the light conditions changed. Sometimes I noticed when moving from bright sunlight to dimmer shade the needle would stick where it had been at f16 or f11 and then suddenly jump to f 5.6 or f4 after a few seconds pointing towards a more dimly lit area. Now the problem seems to be worse as I'm testing it when I don't have any film loaded in the camera , if I just depress the trigger slightly to activate the light meter it seems very sluggish when I move from dim light to bright light , back to dim light ... sometimes the needle moves smoothly as expected, sometimes it sticks and then jumps abruptly. :( 
 I would like to get it looked at . Can anyone recommend a good repair service for the Nikon R-10 in North America , someone you've actually had repair your camera and would send your camera in to again ? (I have seen on his blog that Ignacio Benedeti Corzo highly recommends http://microdeltabalears.com/castellano.htm in Spain for service on Nikon R-10 , but I'd rather not ship it to Spain if I can avoid the international shipping costs , because it's an extra expense on top of whatever it's going to cost to have the camera serviced .) 
 
 I have read in some previous discussions about the R10 that sometimes the needle can get stuck in old hardened lube, which seems like what may be happening here (?) , except in my case the needle does move smoothly some of the time on auto-exposure , but not always. And I can set the f-stop easily with the manual exposure control knob , so the needle doesn't seem to be totally stuck , but is laggy on auto.
 
 
 -------
 
 I suppose I could get along fine with an otherwise functional Nikon R10 that is manual exposure only , but in the past I almost always used the auto-exposure with my Nikons (I've owned both an R-8 and R-10 before , one got dropped and broke , the other I sold , wish I had not ... ) and had excellent results from the auto-exposure. I would use the camera to spot meter (zoom in close , take a reading) and then lock it with the manual exposure/EE lock, but never became much of an expert at using an external light meter. 
 Lazy , I guess. 
 I realize it's a separate topic to discuss using a hand-held meter to set the exposure manually on a Super-8 camera, but if any of you Nikon R-8 or R-10 owners have any tips , I'd appreciate it. I know the fully opened shutter angle is 160° so if things were simple (which they are apparently not) I'd be able to set the ASA on the hand held meter , then get a reading for the correct f-stop setting at 1/40 sec (at 18 fps) or 1/54 (at 24 fps) and that would be that ... except everything I have ever read says that the reflex viewfinder will steal light , but it always seems very vague to me ... some people say the viewfinder light loss amounts to "about 1/3rd of a stop" others say "about 1/2 a stop". How does anyone really know for sure ? And supposedly all the older hand held meters (I have a Gossen Scout 2 and a Sekonic L-158) will assume that the camera has a shutter angle of 180° , so I have to adjust for that if using the "Cine Scale" on these meters. And yes, I realize the only way to really work it out for sure is to shoot a test roll with bracketed exposures , but do any of you Nikon R-8/R-10 owners have any experience to share on using a hand held meter with the Nikon R10/R8 ? 
 
 With the exposure latitude of the Kodak S-8 neg. stocks if I'm off by 1/3rd of a stop or 1/2 a stop (by relying on the Gossen or Sekonic meter reading) will that really matter too much ? Although I understand that with neg. stock slight over-exposure is better dealt with than under-exposure.
  4. Hi friends. I have an Arriflex 16BL with tobin TXM-15 sync that I tried to use today. Its worked many a times before in the past. Today I hit the button to shoot; and nothing happens. What the hell? I take the mag off to see if it was jammed or something; and more smoke than cheech and Chongs car came wafting out of the gear area. Gosh darn it. I take the motor housing off and I see this- 5amp blown fuse. Okay but where was the smoke coming from?? My inching knob is broken as well. Any suggestions? I have all the pieces. The motor still turns by hand, have yet to get the replacement DC fuse. Questions now 1. The motor shows 9,5V motor. I have a 12v 7.5mah battery. Direct leads to a power cable, to Tobin system. Am I over-powering the camera with this battery? Or does the tobin system have some sort of conversion from 12v to 9.5v for the motor? 2. What do you think was the cause of the smoking? Upon inspection of what I could disassemble, I see no melted resistors or plastic or wires, etc. see pictures. 3. Suggestions on replacement of the inching knob? **** pictures to come****
  5. Hello, Does anyone know of a camera technician in Los Angeles who works on 16mm cameras, specifically Eclair NPR and Beaulieu? I need someone to remove the ground glass, mark it (with a pencil is fine), and replace it in an Eclair NPR camera that's already been (partially) modified to super 16mm. The eyepiece has an issue as well, where one side of the frame is cut off, I assume because of the lens re-centering in the super 16 conversion. The image on my test reel looks great, but my framing was off because of the inaccurate ground glass markings and eyepiece problem. Also, I have a Beaulieu 16mm clockwork camera and need to figure out why my focusing has been occasionally off even though I've got the eyepiece diopter calibrated - at least the way I think it needs to be calibrated. I'm looking for a camera technician in Los Angeles who would go over the camera with me and possibly convert it to Ultra 16mm. The Eclair has been to Bernie O'Dougherty who gave it a clean bill of health, but he was too swamped to do mark the ground glass. The cameras and I are in Los Angeles. Thanks for reading and considering this! -Roko (brand new member)
  6. I recently received a Rex 5 for a shoot. I have my own h16 reflex and have had no problems loading it. The rex5, however, doesn't seem to want to take the film maybe I'm doing something wrong? Need some help ASAP as my shoot is in a week. Cheers The spool seems to just jam and not thread the film through unless I add a bit of pressure onto the loop formers do I perhaps need to adjust them? If so how would I do this?
  7. Hello everyone, I've been lurking on these forums for a couple of years now, but this is my first time posting. Usually whenever I've had questions I can find answers here, and I'd like to thank you all because I have learned so much from this community. I have some concerns about my Krasnogorsk-3 that I'd like to discuss. I've been interested in learning to shoot on film, and I managed to purchase one back in January for about $60 after shipping. For a simple camera to learn on, I thought the price was great. As far as I can tell it runs smoothly and is in pretty good condition, but of course I'm not quite experienced enough to make that call. There are two things that I've noticed might be issues for my camera though, and before I start a short personal project I plan on doing soon, I'd like to get everyone's insight on it. One problem is that the top loop former doesn't move when I push down the plunger. I can physically pull it up myself, but it doesn't open up the way the bottom loop former does. At first I wasn't that worried about this because I was thinking I'd remove these anyway, but after watching the disassembly and reassembly videos several times, I chickened out and will likely send it to a professional for that if need be. The second problem is something I noticed that seems different about mine compared to those I see in Youtube videos about loading the camera. In a couple of these videos, the rollers that you feed the film into are able to open up slightly, as can be seen in this video here at 1:22. When I tried that, they won't budge at all. Are these serious problems for my K-3? Will it still work despite these issues? I appreciate any insight you all may have.
  8. What dependable companies or individuals can you suggest for lens services? I want to have a set of 70s/80s Canon FDs cleaned and serviced (slight dust, fungus, haze). Additionally I'd like to remove the lens coatings. They will ultimately be rehoused so mounts/seatings are not of concern. The entire kit may include: FD 14mm f/2.8L FD 20mm f/2.8 SSC FD 24mm f/1.4L FD 35mm f2 SSC ii FD 55mm f/1.2 ssc ASPHERICAL FD 85mm f/1.2 L ASPHERICAL I'm based in the states (midwest) but am talking with GL Optics/Nan to rehouse them. So could be open to someone near him in China.
  9. AATON XTR SER1352 As time goes by my Ground Glass is no longer centered in the frame it has slipped downward as I look into the eyepiece. Is there something I can do to adjust it "upward" I have also noticed that when the top line of the ground glass is in focus the bottom is a little out. Is there an easy way to adjust the ground glass back to factory setting without sending it away for service? I have a shoot this Tuesday and I'd like to fix it if possible Thanks in advance.
  10. Does anyone out there know of someone in Toronto that has the ability to service a Bolex H16? I recently received an old Bolex to my great delight as a gift that I want to shoot on and I have the resources (stock, access to processing, ect.) to do it, but it seems that the camera needs a bit of care in order to get it running again. It winds, the motor runs, and film moves through it properly, the issue though is that it does not keep a constant speed and will slow down at the end of the wind or if it’s in the middle of a roll of film, move very slowly as though the motor is weak. I don’t know nearly enough about the inner workings of this piece of gear in order to consider opening it up and I think that most likely it needs to be cleaned and lubricated. I’m hoping to find someone in the city to do it because I don’t have the money to ship it off somewhere else and get it serviced. It’s also a non-reflex model so it is quite old and I don’t know the history behind it so I can only assume it’s been a very long time since it’s received proper care.
  11. Optical Support are one of the UK’s leading lens repair and Steadicam specialists in the UK. Over 15 years of experience has provided us with the knowledge and tools to provide a high quality, reputable service. Whether it’s a low budget film or a full length feature, we can provide you with a tailored service to meet your production requirements. Also known for the infamous Mantis Rickshaw; Optical Support has become a household name in the British film industry with credits in Feature films and Television spanning across the world including Spectre (2015), Pride and Prejudice and Zombies (2016), Game Of Thrones and Indian Summers. For more information please visit http://www.opticalsupport.com Optical Support Ltd 203 – 204 Belgravia Workshops 157 – 163 Marlborough Road London United Kingdom N19 4NF Call: +44 (0)207 281 0999 General Enquires: info@opticalsupport.com Accounts Debt: accounts@opticalsupport.com Lens Hire: info@oslenses.com
  12. I just purchased a Kodak Instamatic M6 from ebay. It arrived in excellent condition, but was not working (the seller did not say it WOULD work) anyway I checked to make sure all the contacts were clean on the battery compartment, and the cartridge compartment looked decent...all in all it looked like it was in great shape. I opened up the auto exposure control battery part and there was only one battery in it and the battery was corroded a bit, so i removed it cleaned out the compartment and left the battery out. (I am going to buy the necessary two replacement batteries for the auto exposure control) The trigger pushed in, but the motor did not sound as if it were running. i pushed it several times but to no avail. (i think i heard the motor run for a split second twice, but nothing else) my friend looked onver the camera with me and we sprayed some contact cleaner on the regular battery contacts just to make sure. the trigger still did nothing. I held the camera up to my ear and heard a low sort of vibration, as if something completed a circuit inside the camera, but i did not push the trigger in...it was doing this by itself. I took the batteries out and it stopped. I came here and saw a forum post of someone having a similar issue and the replies suggested that the trigger may be "stuck" on or defective, or that the drive shaft gear is not working...because its neoprene and probably has broken because the camera is so old. FINALLY, after all that explanation my question is essentially what should I do now? I have a couple cartridges of film so i could pop one in and see if that works (but i dont see how that would change the trigger) or should i try and take it apart and clean the contact with the trigger, or is it the gear....or basically what are my options.
  13. Hi, i got this beautiful BOLEX H16 EL, MKIII, first of all please confirm that if its MKII or MKIII Version, ? Well i am having a issue to start this camera, i have managed to rebuild the battery with more powerful cells, and now its full ready, when i attach it with my camera, and press the shutter, all i get is 2 red lights with a (- and +) in the viewfinder, and after little time, the camera sounds little, like it moves the film part just a little and stops, and the lights gone, i have locked the shutter pressed and then i am plugging and unplugging the battery component, every time it moves a little and then shut down, in the attached picture i have mentioned an arrow and a red circle on the part which rotates once and then camera shut down, so can any technical guy can explain me what is this issue.? i think the camera is not damaged, as it powers on, and then off after rotating one frame. i turned all the speed but the same behavior for all speeds. So what i am basically missing.? do i have to insert the reel to make it work.? or what.? I will also try to put a video for clear views. But kindly guide me. or if someone have made any video for running this camera then please share. or any service manual if it needs service. Thanks.
  14. My Beaulieu R16 runs fine on external power. I just bought a newly-recelled 1,000 mA grip battery. It won't run on the grip battery. Checking the battery on the meter on the side of the R16, the needle only deflects half-way. I tested the battery with a multimeter. The outer ring shows about 8 volts, and the inner ring shows about 4 volts. Since the camera's meter shows half power, and one ring of the battery shows half power, I suspected that one of the wires in the Power Grip is bad. I switched to 'resistance' on the multimeter. Looking at the plug that plugs into the camera body, with the pins on the lower side (pins at 9 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 3 o'clock), I checked each pin corresponding to a ring on the battery, and each pin on the plug. The 3 o'clock pin on the plug corresponds to the centre pin on the battery side. I get a reading of about 1.3 ohms. The 6 o'clock pin on the plug corresponds to the pin on the battery side closest to the centre pin; thus, it corresponds to the nominal 3.6v inner ring on the battery. I get a reading of about the same as the first reading. That leaves the 9 o'clock pin on the plug. I'm not getting a reading on that one, which corresponds to the 7.2v ring of the battery. Not being an electronically/electrically inclined person, and not having any idea of what I'm doing, it seems that when I use the battery on the Power Grip, the 7.2v power is not getting to the camera. The 3.6v is. Apparently I have a bad lead in the 3-pin XLR cord. Can this be fixed? If so, can it be fixed by me? If so, how?
  15. Hello all, This is a stupidly specific question, but I'm hoping some of the rental guys can chime in (help me, Guy Holt, you're my only hope). It recently came to my attention that all of my fixture heads are scratched to poop and I would love to do some touch up on them. Does anyone know where I could source some Mole Richardson high temp red and some Arri high temp silver/blue? I know a lot of local houses here in DC will matte black their fixtures partly for the sake of keeping them look tidy but I would love to avoid this. I know this would involve dismantling the fixtures for painting and painters taping over necessary warnings but work has been slow and I need something to keep busy. Thanks!
  16. I write this with a very heavy heart. Back in January I sent my beloved Canon 1014 XL-S to Steven Willard of Willard Engineering for a clean/lube/service with an agreed upon price of $200. The camera was shipped insured and delivered on January 30th. Up to that time Steve was lightning fast with all his communications via email and text. But once my camera was in his hands all communication stopped. He would not answer me to verify he had the camera. Not until I left a forceful voice-mail in mid February did he finally return my call and explain the camera was in his hands, but that he had been ill. He promised all was well and he would get to my camera in a week. Okay, I can accept that. Two weeks pass and nothing. I start emailing. I hear nothing. I text and hear nothing. I call and eventually leave a vm explaining I fear he has stolen my camera. The next day he calls and says his wife is ill. Okay, but I have NOTHING via text or email stating he has my camera. He agrees to send me an email stating he has the camera and also explains he will do the job next week. I receive the email on March 12. Since then, silence. Nothing. No response to any methods of communication. This camera is very important to me and it cost me big bucks. I cannot just eat the cost. Has anyone had an experience with Steve Willard? I have only heard good things about the man, which is why I sent the camera to him. But it appears I may have made a terrible mistake. Should I not have this situation settled by the end of the week I will probably have to look into filing charges of mail fraud. That's a felony. I'll also have to go to the BBB. I'd rather not do that to the man if it can be avoided, but fact is HE HAS MY CAMERA and will not fix or simply return it to me.
  17. Hey everyone. I'm selling an Arriflex 400' mag for PARTS or REPAIR. Please check the ebay link below for details. Starting bid is $0.99 USD. Thanks for looking. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arriflex-16mm-400-magazine-for-Arri-S-FOR-PARTS-OR-REPAIR-/181626857746?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a49cde912
  18. I don't know if this is the right place to post, but I need some help with my bell&howell autoload super 8mm projector (I think model 461). It stopped rewinding recently. Runs fine in fwd mode, but just hums when I try to rewind. I suspect a belt issue so some type, any suggestions?
  19. Hello all, I've got a dour situation on my hands with my new Bolex H16. Not sure which model exactly - it's an eBay find - but it has a variable shutter so I think it's an Rx2. It was running fine this evening as I was putting my first roll through. I wanted to try to do a double exposure and rewound the camera a few feet. Then when I re-engaged the motor I heard an unnatural noise. Suffice to say, that motor isn't running any more. I've removed the film - there didn't seem to be any jams. I've tried single frame and slow-speed continuous running but neither have engaged the motor. The crank is tight, like it has a full wind, but won't move in either direction when engaged. And the rewind works... in both directions. Does this sound like a spring problem? Any other ideas? This is my first Bolex and I might have gotten to antsy to try out its special effects...
  20. The focus adjustment ring on my bolex h16 reflex camera is stuck. I have tried focusing the ground glass with the lenses removed and the camera pointed at a bright light source. The ring will move a little bit and I can see the ground glass blurring and sharpening, but I do not have full movement of the ring. I tried losening the screw on the focus ring and re-tightening it, and it still will not budge. It feels as if it is catching on something, I can hear a little clicking noise when I try to turn it. I am thinking that I may need to take apart the diopter to find out what is jamming it up internally. I can't figure out how to do this- apart from tightening and loosening the screw on the focus ring. If it is possible, I would like to try to repair this by myself. Any suggestions?
  21. Hello all, This is my first post. I am a photojournalist by trade, but I recently picked up a Revere Model 99 Standard 8mm Ciné Camera for a good price at a Flea Market. I was wondering a few things. What are some good sources for Standard 8mm film? Also, it came with two telephoto lenses... both had focuse rings that seem stuck. Is this a matter of dissasembly, or am I missing a trick to get them moving? The aperture rings work great... Thanks for any advice or information. I'm not sure if there's a digitized users guide, but it would be most helpful in learning its operation. If I can get it running, I'd like to take it along on an assignment to India this summer... when I have some down time, a film about the Nihang Sikh warriors would be fun to shoot in this old format. :) Thanks again everyone! www.brundinphotography.com
  22. Hi all. So my normal go to guy has not replied to emails (strangely) and so I am going to ask around here. I have a terrific Canon 1014 XL-S that I love (not as much as my long gone Nikon R10, but oh well) and it has performed wonderfully for the nearly two years I have owned her. However, right now I am getting a strange problem when shooting. Sometimes it is as if the in camera fade in/out becomes engaged. I'll be shooting and POOF, it stops. When I check the roll, I see the results are an in camera fade out. Like on this Straight8 entry that didn't go so well... https://vimeo.com/57757062 The scratches are a product of the shitty telecine. They ruined my roll. :( Anyway, you can see the issue at 0:22, 0:35 and 2:46. Every other aspect of the camera is fine. It's really mint. But I have a feature shoot coming up and if all goes well, I'll need this camera working 100% since we have some super8 stuff to shoot for a few scenes. I will also be in the market for a backup camera, preferably a tip top Nikon R10. :)
  23. Just bought a very cheap Canon 814. I needed a 2nd camera I could could compare with my Nizo for film/dev testing. The focus is completely out. I can only focus at 60mm end and then have to turn the focus ring the opposite way. I shot a test using a tape measure to set focus and the image was out of focus so it seems like the lens. Also the VF seems fuzzy and the diopter setting is stuck. A camera repair company just quoted me £189 + VAT to fix and service it. That would be nice but out of proportion to the s/h value of the camera, I suspect. What should I do: Junk it? Can I fix it myself? Is that even possible? Sell/give it away it for spares? Advice , please? Or other suggestions? Thank-you.
×
×
  • Create New...