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Evan Walsh

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Everything posted by Evan Walsh

  1. Something to consider, the Abakus (1.32x) and HDx1.4 (1.4x) adaptors would make the 3.9mm effectively a 5-5.5mm T2.8-ish + any softness or CA an optical adaptor may introduce. If you're only after an ultra wide lens for s16 you may have an easier time hunting down the Optex 4mm T1.8, Optex 5.5 T1.8 or Century 6mm T1.9 w/ the front 4.5mm adaptor.
  2. It does, a few were just auctioned off a few weeks ago from VER/PRG https://www.soldtiger.com/m/lot-details/index/catalog/430/lot/59467/Zeiss DigiPrime 3.9mm T1.9 Cine Lens?url=%2Fm%2Fview-auctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F430%3Fpage%3D8
  3. Have you tried paging through the mode while it is connected? There should be a display for SU which is for when the external speed control is connected. If you hit the phase or run button on the RCU does the camera respond? When set to CAM mode the RCU should just act as a normal external display. In RCU mode it will override any changes made on the body itself.
  4. The camera needs to be set to the PS/CCU mode, the small switch under the display.
  5. I've never seen them for sale before but I have come across them in a few differently styles before, I'm assuming these were custom deals from the rental house. Double stick / snot tape it around the edges of a normal filter tray if you cant find a net frame and want to be able to on / off it. Depending on your focal length you're still going to have to stretch it over the rear if you're going wide, front netting will be visible on the wide end.
  6. When you say mag port cover, do you mean the magnetic gate cover or the rubber magazine loop protector / throat cap?
  7. Depending on the length of the rental its probably cheaper to pick one up off eBay/craigslist rather than renting but Du-All camera in NJ rents MiniDV, VHS and Hi-8 cameras. http://www.duallcamera.com/catalog/index.shtml
  8. Ah that's over my head but this sounds like something you might be able to create in an excel or google sheet through the math functions. You might need a spreadsheet pro to cook that up for you but I have seen some pretty comprehensive spreadsheets that help automate things like timecards/billing and data collection.
  9. I don't know any apps that do the adding/subtracting bit but if you just need to figure out run times and lengths check out the free Kodak Cinema Tools app. pCam Pro (IOS only I believe) also has this function in addition to dozens of other useful tools, I believe its $30.00
  10. I saw Heden has released an updated version of the M26VE Motor which claims a higher speed. Has anyone used one of these with a Preston system yet? Trying to gauge its speed/torque in comparison to a DM1x but I haven't seen this new motor in the wild yet.
  11. Evan Walsh


    You're right the Pocket 6k is cheaper and no one is forcing you to like the Komodo, if you like the pocket 6k that's great. You can run the Komodo right out of the box with just a battery and lens similar to the Pocket 6k if that is all you need it for,and yes it can record for more than hour without overheating but I'm not here to sell you one. All in a Komodo with Wooden Camera cage, B-box, A-box, PL mount and some media will run you around 11k +/-. Once you're there you can now use it with all the commonly found AKS and make use of industry standard I/O. No HDMI-SDI conversion needed, No mini to full size XLR cables needed, no audio track timecode work around, no LANC cable for run/stop and if you're in the situation that calls for it you can genlock the camera. The cost increase is from the professional options it gives you, if you don't need those options then you don't need those accessories. I've never been a great fan of the Red ecosystem or look for that matter and I agree that the "Arri Look" is something most people strive for. However, the utility of this camera is pretty undeniable. Much like the Alexa Mini, this was not meant as a replacement for the A camera and requires work arounds and concessions to make it one but it definitely has the ability to fill that roll most of the time. Silly as it sounds, if you're the shooter/editor one man band type who might need to sell the client on the gear that they have, saying "I have a Red" may save you the effort of trying to convince them something else is good enough because it lacks the brand recognition.
  12. Evan Walsh


    At face value it may seem like typical Red price inflation but I do think the cost is justified having used both. Global shutter, ease of changing mounts, aftermarket options for internal ND's, wireless control and monitoring, metal construction, better power options, mounting points on the camera, timecode, arri style R/S and genlock via adaptors. Those features / options put it in a different class from the pocket 6k which I think justifies the price tag.
  13. Evan Walsh


    Jarred from Red had mentioned a big reason for its creation was the demand for a truly compact and cinema grade camera that could offer greater versatility than what is available today. A specific scenario he cited was something that could replace GoPro type cameras for action cam/crash cam applications while being able to shoot an established codec and match the primary cameras of a project. How many times have you seen a film or TV show where they cut in some drone or crash cam footage and it sticks out like a sore thumb. The catch is that this isn't meant to replace your A camera. Could this camera replace your A camera? If you're mostly shooting 24fps and don't require all the I/O the larger cameras provide then yes it can do the whole job. However, if you need lens metadata, in camera proxies, isolated SDI outputs, speeds above 40fps in the full resolution etc. then this is not your primary camera. At the end of the day it's just another tool for people to use.
  14. What Satsuki said, 138 (or 4.5 round) are useful for effects filters like Star's allowing you to dial in an effect. Pola's, Diopters and Stars will be the most common round filters you'll find. You may occasionally see round ND or Diffusion filters but those were intended more for the threaded mounts you would find in the photo or ENG world where you may not be using a mattebox.
  15. Will it cause catastrophic damage to the camera? Highly unlikely. However you may find some registration issues or you may cone your feed or take up side depending which side is placed facing the ground. I think ultimately you would be fine but couldn't hurt to shoot a test before hand. It makes me think of when people "sloppy low mode" a film camera on steadicam and just flip the sled as they would on a digital shoot instead of properly mounting the camera for underslung operation. 98% of the time its totally fine, occasionally you will run into either scratching, registration or jams when running a camera in a strange orientation.
  16. #3 looks like some sort of run/stop remote switch. It should have either a Lemo 1B 6pin or a Lemo 0S 2pin on the end unless someone cut it off. #7 is a bag of fuses. The cylindrical ones would go inside of the batteries they should be rated for 5A if you look as the inscriptions on them. The Shorter silver one would go into the body and should also be rated for 5A. The small oval shaped one with the long leads is the style you'd typically see with an SR but I have heard of people trimming them to fit into an Aaton fuse compartment when in a pinch.
  17. Sigma cine zoom's Why: Speed, size/weight, quality, brand recognition, people won't be suspicious if you show up with one as silly as it sounds. They have been available for while now and I have not heard any people have serious issues with them so they have been proven in that regard. They are also readily available from many rental houses now so if one of your lenses goes down you could easily rent a replacement in most markets. Why not: Breathing, the 50-100 especially. Mount is not user swappable.
  18. I know there are Nikon mount adaptors for the Aaton mount, one came with my XTR when I bought it. There may be others but the diameter of the Aaton mount may be the limiting factor in what kinds of lenses you can adapt to it. Try Serious gear and/or VP they may have some mount adaptors in stock.
  19. Does your setup use screw in rods as seen in some shape or zacuto baseplates? Screw in rods can be troublesome for lens motors, if that's not the case try calibrating on a lower torque setting. Do the lenses telescope as they move through the focus range? This can also cause motor issues if you're using a clip on matte box as the weight of the matte box will cause the focus mechanism to bind and the motors will kick off. If none of the above apply, try calibrating at a lower torque and as Kyryll said apply gentle force to the motor to keep it on the lens. Once it is calibrated you shouldn't have to worry about it hitting an endpoint and kicking off.
  20. Check eBay, there's several nicely priced 435's as well as many 35-3's, Moviecams etc.
  21. No it worked pretty good. That gasket I speak of was just tape doubled over, you could comfortably smush your face into it as it would flex around you, the velcro on the other end help seal it to the monitor as well. I made it while on a feature a few years ago out of necessity, we were shooting in open fields with minimal shade and direct sunlight, did the job well enough.
  22. If there was a way to make it fold flat that sounds like a good idea. This was my rather gross looking coroplast and gaff tape solution, made the face "gasket" out of doubled up black gaff. Served me well enough for a while,
  23. Honestly you're on the right track with the goggles thing, Tvlogic even makes an extended hoodman with a curve on the end to comfortably stuff your face into it. That's about as good as it gets, I made an extended hoodman for mine out of black coroplast and gaff tape.
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