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  1. Originally posted in FILM STOCKS Im am curious to gather some opinions. I plan on shooting a short in the near future on 16mm. Naturally my choice of stocks are limited to Kodak, and for production purposes 250D would be my best option. Now, really hate doing color correction and DI. I dont like doing it myself, and I dont want to pay to get a colorist to do it for me. I am wondering, how accurate are the colors of 250D, raw out of the stock? What sort of work would I have to do in post to make them accurate. Are there options for me in filtration to normalize the stock? My thought process is, that I want the stock to have an accurate color baseline for me to modify to fit my story. I am looking for a warm, medium contrast, and slightly diffused look. Something in between George Washington (2000) and The Long Goodbye (1973). For this, my idea of was to shoot with some TLS Rehoused Super Baltars, and apply a Tiffen Warm Black Pro-Mist 1/4. What do you think
  2. Ektachrome 7240 30 meter / 100 feet perforated for R-8 N-8 For the die-hard R-8/N-8 filmer and projection-lover I have had a stack of Ektachrome 7240 perforated for R-8 N-8 Obtained from a collection of materials from a careful filmer who kept it in cooled storage until just a few months ago. Euro 90 per roll of 30 meter/ 100 feet (check on Wittner (=45) or Kahl (=30) for their 7.5 meter non-Kodak-color material :) ) Material is on 100ft daylight spools. Will fit a number of cameras but most will require respooling onto small spools. I am expecting a load of small spools, just not here yet. Processing is in VNF-1 found at several labs. But also popular with DIY processing people :) Seller based in Netherlands. Within EU happy shipping and duty free :) Elsewhere Also available: 7240 in super-8 cartridge Kodak Surveillance color in super-8 Kodak 4-X in super-8 Kodak MF-4 in super-8 Plus-X in super-8
  3. Hey all! As the topic reads... I'm urgently Looking for Kodak EXR 50D 16mm film or maybe Fuji 64D... Ideally in New York, but I could travel or pay for post. Film love to you all!
  4. Hello, I have recently bought a Kodak M24 instamatic camera online. A quick disclaimer - I know that they have been reported to have internal parts which have degraded and so upon use they break. I thought Id give filming on it a shot anyway, with the confidence that if it does break, itll still be a lovely item to own. My issue is, I havent been able to find out if its possible to work the modern Kodak super 8 film in the camera or not. Particularly, I was wondering if anyone knew if the type in the attached photograph would function in it? If not, I would be really grateful to anyone who could direct me towards any links to buy films that I could use in the camera. Thank you! Hannah
  5. <iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/258354917"width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> Tyler Burns - "Knock On Wood/Frankenthaler" Shot this 9.5 minute double music video/short film on Kodak 16mm MPF (50D, 250D, 500T) with an Aaton XTR Prod and Zeiss Primes MKI over the course of almost 3 years in Oregon. Development by Fotokem (Burbank, CA) Telecine by Lightpress (Seattle, WA) Love to hear what y'all think. http://aleceagon.com http://instagram.com/aleceagon
  6. Hello folks. I'm reading conflicting stuff about the rating of 16mm stock. Do you guys rate your stock a full stop over or 2/3 for day exterior? How about night exterior? I'll be shooting 250D and 50D mostly for now, on regular 16. I'm already compensating for the prism light loss on my Bolex Rex5 so I don't want to overexpose too much. What are your experiences? Thanks for your input!
  7. ...I've been shooting Tri-X since my student days in 1992. I love it's qualities and nothing quite compares to it. I'm beginning to wonder just how long Kodak will continue to produce this B&W reversal stock. Should I be bulk buying it or am I just a bit paranoid after 'losing' K40, 64T and 100D ???
  8. Hello all! I'm shooting a short on 16mm Kodak 500T Vision3 next month. I'm looking to get a cold look out of the film. Thinking blue hues in the shadows, while keeping low contrast in the image. Hoping for something along the lines of the look of the film Godless. Specifically inspired by the MSs of men at 01:33 and 00:33. I have interiors and exteriors, day and night. Planning on using natural light and LiteMat 4's for lighting, and Ultra Primes for glass. Planning on shooting regular 16mm to get the tall aspect ratio. I was thinking I would use an 81 filter to adjust the Tungsten stock for daylight scenes to keep some of the inherent blue from the tungsten stock. I was also toying with using an Antique Suede 1 filter for colour correction... but was wondering if anyone has any advice or would know how to get a look similar to Godless. Should I pull the film a stop? Any filters I could use I don't know about? Appreciate any comments! thank you Peter
  9. Greetings Everyone! Need some advice here on a sailing documentary which I have shot on S16 with an Arriflex SR3 camera. After a lot of struggles and failures, I have reached 50% of what I really wanted to achieve. Anyways, I have started assembling the footage. Cinelab Mass., has done a good job. I have the negatives scanned to 1080p HD without timecode. Few editor friends of mine suggested that I get the negatives scanned again with a timecode and then with a final cut timeline get a 2K scan and grading done the way we do for movies. I wish to showcase the documentary in film festivals. Do you think an HD output won't do justice? Generally,what formats are documentaries shown in film festivals? advice and suggestions welcome.
  10. Hi, I have this made in Germany Kodak and I opened up the film door to make sure it was all in working order and now I can't close it. This camera is a little weird, you push a button to release the film door and I assume it is the same to close it, but it won't close. I'm a little stumped and was wondering if you guys knew anything. I'm planning on using this as my B&W camera and my Ricoh for color. Thanks!
  11. <iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/244517536"width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href=" ">iron sportster 883 hd</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user18835395">Prashantt Rai</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p> https://vimeo.com/244517536 I shot this long time back, early 2014 perhaps. Had the negatives scanned, graded, and 2k footage stored in a hard drive. The drive crashed. Data recovery guys were asking a lot of money. I got it scanned again now. I shot this with a focus puller and a driver one early morning on Kodak 200T.
  12. Shot on Super 16. Kodak Vision3 Stocks. 200T and 50D.
  13. Hello All! New user here and I'm hoping this great community can help me out. For the past week, I have been desperately trying to find a comprehensive and complete guide to processing Kodak Super 8 Tri-X 7266 at home. I can't seem to find any localized complete source of information on how to do this--while I've been able to find what sort of materials I'd need, the chemistry bit seems really though to understand. There seems to be multiple opinions on what sort of chemistry to use, but no real guide on how to do it or which chemistry works best. Now to be honest, I've never developed reversal film at home before--however, I do have a darkroom, and have been devleoping my own still film (black and white and color) since I was about 13 (I'm 25 now.) I've been shooting Super 8 (and Reg. 8, and some 16 here and there) for a long time now, and I'm to the point where I'm shooting so much of it, I think it might make sense to invest up front in the materials to develop at least Super 8 Tri-X at home. I should also say: I'm not a chemist--I have a degree in English, so I took 1 chemistry class in all of my education--and it was the history of chemicals--so my ability to understand how chemistry works is pretty sad, to be honest--I know how to follow mixing instructions on bottles and packets--that's about it! I'm just interested in processing the film for reversal results--I'm not interested in cross processing or anything 'artistic'--I'd like to just reproduce the results from the lab, if at all possible Can anyone provide a resource that goes over exactly what chemicals to use to process Super 8 Tri-X 7266 (and possibly where to buy them), mixing instructions, and processing times? I would be forever in your debt! Here's my materials list: -Chemistry -Spiral Lomo Tank -Containers for chemistry? -100 or 300 watt bulb -Drying device (Morse Drying Drum (or similar) Thanks to all for your time and help! Owen - Cleveland.
  14. Hi all, I'm starting prep work for my college thesis at Emerson and I'm researching into the different challenges with shooting the project on film. I'm particularly thinking 16mm, just for budgetary reasons, and can't seem to find a Super 16mm camera that shoots up to 300 fps other than scientific/military cameras. The film is about a track athlete, so I'm wanting to get some very beautiful, frozen moment shots of our talent running. Does anyone know of any cameras that shoot as high as 300 fps? I see most of the HS cameras from Arri only go up to 150 fps. Thanks!
  15. Hi everyone, I'm writing a piece on the history of colour correction/grading through the ages and was wondering if any of you have been in the business long enough to have first hand experience of grading with film before it went digital? If any of you have any information about who to talk to or know of anywhere that still processes film (preferably in London), please let me know!
  16. Hello group, Just got a 100ft roll of 16mm 1R Eastman 7222 Double-X neg stock. The label states "© 2002". Also bought supposedly fresh Double-X stock very recently and the label says "© 2009". Q 1: anyone know what's the deal with the dates (same with Ektachrome 100D BTW)? Q 2: should I compensate for sensitivity loss with the 2002 Double-X stock? I know that overexposing Double-X is bad - not like current Kodak color neg at all. Love the classic look of Double-X with its typical 'vintage' grain pattern ranging from shadows all the way up to highlights. Any reply/tips very highly appreciated. Christian
  17. Hello everybody, I was hoping to find the Kodak Super 8 film camera at the NAB2017, but I haven't have any luck. Does anyone knows what happened to that project? MOY
  18. For sale is 1200ft (3x 400ft cans) of 35mm Kodak Vision3 500T 5219. Freezer stored, sealed cans, packaging intact. $400 for all. Terrible iphone photo included.
  19. Selling 4 cans of new, unopened 16mm Kodak Vision3 250D film. Bought from Kodak three weeks ago, stored in temperature-controlled condition. $150 (+ shipping) per can Pickup possible in Los Angeles 90012
  20. Hi all. I have a couple of questions regarding super 8mm shooting. I've been shooting Super 8 for a few years now, haven't used it much, but have gone through a few rolls of film in my spare time. I've been reading about colour temperatures, and have slightly confused myself. I read somewhere that all Kodak film is tungsten balanced, and that by putting a cartridge of 50D into my super 8 camera for example, is engaging the 85A Warming filter. By putting 500T into my camera it disengages the filter, unless I chose to override it for shooting in daylight with tungsten stock. Is it the other way round? It makes more sense that the filter is only engaged automatically when placing a Tungsten stock in the camera. I'm sure its different for all camera manufacturers, but if anyone has an input for my specific Canon 318m camera that would be great. A separate question. I'm planning to shoot a short film on Kodak Tri-X B/W Reversal stock in the coming months. What coloured filters are recommended for shooting Tri-X in daylight, and interior fluorescent or tungsten environments? Mainly for maintaining contrast levels etc..
  21. Baby Driver just debuted at the SXSW festival for the lucky few who were there and got the chance to see it early (comes out wide on August 11). This is Edgar Wright's long awaited new film he's been wanting to do for 20 years. What makes this puppy extra special is that the titular character, named Baby (yes, really), played by Ansel Elgort, suffers from tinnitus, and constantly listens to music to drown it out. He's a getaway driver who excels at what he does, and the film is cut to the music he listens to. His boss played by Kevin Spacey promises him he'll be out after one more job. Rest of the cast is led by Lily James, Jon Hamm, Jamie Foxx, Flea, etc. The film is shot by the amazing Bill Pope (who also shot Wright's incredible Scott Pilgrim Vs The World) on 35mm anamorphic, G-series lenses according to set pics. I actually asked Edgar details on the formats as there is some Alexa seen in set pics, and there they are: "90 percent shot on 35mm anamorphic, some Alexa mini for running shots, some Alexa for night shots, one drone shot!" Domestic trailer in QT 1080p quality: http://www.hd-trailers.net/movie/baby-driver/ International trailer with tons of new footage and with a completely different feel, only available in awful YT quality so far: Very exciting
  22. Hi, I've got for sale my trusted Super16 camera kit. I've bought it in fall of 2010 from Mr. David Odd. as his personal camera. He had it converted to Super16 by P+S Technik in 2008 and had installed color video tap by Visual Products, inc. Since 2010 I've shot with this camera about 10x 400 ft of film. Here is footage What's in kit: Arri SR1 Super16 camera, 180 degree fixed shutter - HDTV 1:1,78 gate (brighter, from SR3) - Visual Products color video tap PAL - PL mount - wideangle PS Technik eyepiece (made by Voigtlander) 3x super16 magazine 1x spare magazine (not converted to super16) 1x SR3 magazine (with TC) LWS 15mm support rods (2x) Arri BP-7 base plate (for 15mm studio) CE - Precision Speed Control 2 (for other frame rates than 24 fps) Arri VSU - variable speed unit (not as exact as CE) 2x 12V old batteries (as spare, needs recelling) 12V NiCd charger 12V discharger handle, incl. remote switch --------- I live in Bratislava, Slovak Republic. Shipping only in EU. Price is 1700 € + 150 € for shipping --------- PHOTOS
  23. Got some questions about pushing and pulling film stock after reading this fantastic article about shooting La La Land on film, and after a recent wedding I shot. I'm not a complete novice or anything but still only been shooting motion picture film for a couple years now. As I said, I shoot weddings among other things on Super 8 and sometimes, you just gotta deal with the light you're given. Last wedding I shot, the ceremony was EXTREMELY dark, I'm talking like, you could barely see the couple with your eyes dark... So I was shooting 500T on my Beaulieu 1008XL (f1.2 lens, 225º shutter) wide open then I had CineLab push it a stop in development. I DID get back an image amazingly but it is pretty darn grainy. It's ok but I'll have to work around it with my other footage. And it got me to researching it some... After reading about pushing and pulling online and on Kodak's website here it seems like pushing may not be the best idea for low light contrary to my thinking. Plus this quote "Push processing is not recommended as a means to increase photographic speed." I know pushing only increases light that's hit the film therefore more light gets brighter whereas little light get a little brighter hence more contrast. So why does Kodak speak against it so much? In low light should I just shoot at box speed and then fix in the scan. I know Phil of Pro8mm says on his site that pushing is largely unnecessary with the quality of scans these days. Thoughts from other scan labs like Gamma or CineLab? What's the point in pushing film then? Also... pulling film. In the La La Land article, they mention shooting 250 at 100 and 500 at 200 and then pulling in development. Does anyone do this? For film I've overexposed, I've always just done normal processing and fixed in post due to the large latitude of V3. Would it be better to pull? They mention finer grain and lower contrast in the article. I always just figured it was a fix for overexposure. A novice viewpoint, clearly. Also how they heck are they shooting nighttime at 200ASA!? Sorry for the long post but a bit confused and curious about more experienced shooters' thoughts.
  24. Hello cinematography.com friends! I just finished up my latest short film and I wanted to share it with you guys. Shot entirely on vision 3 super 8 stock (50D,500t) This was my first attempt at creating a narrative on actual film. The camera used was a Sankyo 40s xl and the process/2k scan was performed by Pro8mm in Burbank. Thanks! Happy New Years. - Hunter <iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/197584631"width="640" height="486" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe>
  25. Hi everyone, I just wanted to get a few perspectives on grey cards. I currently own a cheap Neewer card that has worked fine for my purposes so far, but I've always wondered how accurate it is. Because I intend to test some film stocks soon, I want to find one that I know is perfect. I've been thinking about getting the Kodak R-27 card, but the price tag of $27 for a piece of cardboard has made me hesitant to do so. I can't help but think that if I'm going to pay money for a reference like this, maybe I should look at other options as well. Does anyone have any grey card recommendations as well as advice on using one? Thanks.
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