Andries Molenaar

There is no relation between de Canon and Nikon. So why would this happen to another camera which was 3 times as expensive. And a mild overhaul with simple lube is not going to spot/warn for an imminent death of a drivemotor or of a simple electronic component. Don't make simple things complicated by just the fear of trouble. Good luck.

The zoom (not focus) handle in the picture is the original Nikon extenable thing. You can double its length by pulling the outer sleeve out. Really nice. If the camera runs fine and the EE system works dont'bother with lube job. It will do more harm than good. If it ain't broken don't fix it. Make sure not to store it with the aperture indicator needle in the max position. I am under the impression that the EE system may get stuck when the camera is laid to rest for a period of time with the actuator in its outer position. It appears it gets stuck in sticky grease where the actuator cannot pull it out again.

Their opinion is of no interest. Why even ask? On you own premises you can film what you like. With or without people on it. Just as your mother can go and photograph anything she likes.

And indeed:

This object infront of the lens is not working and you are adjusting to a random obejct. The centre of the lens is not necessarily in the centre of the frame of the camera. The essence is to align the viewfinder with the frame of the camera's filmgate. I.e. the area the camera is registering on the film and what you want the viewfinder to be aimed on. The target should be on a wall, the camera on a steady mount. Open the shutter and project the camera's gate onto the wall using a light in the chamber and through the lens mounted on the camera. Align the target frame inside of the projected frame. Then align (rotate) the eyepiece of the camera to the horizontal /vertical lines of the target. Then use the two adjusters to center the viewfinder on the target if needed. The rotational adjustment is far more frequently needed as the eyepiece sticks out and many owners treat it a like something mounted to their car rather then to a precision instrument. This is in brief how it is described in a manufacturer's repair manual and to my memory as I read it in (Baumgarten's) instructions.

And do so soon. Dwayne's must have received 100's of them last december but you should expect that they will dump them. If they haven't already.

Better check eBay.com There are plenty suppliers for complete matte-box sets at very reasonable prices. Finding a Beaulieu grip-wedge to align it optically is also very well possible.

The only worry is that 3 meter of 8.5mm fuji splicing tape with 100 splices now costs around Euro 20,- Which is, considering the involved manufacturing costs, ridiculous. This fuji splicing tape can be had in many many shops in Japan (from stock!) at Yen 640 (last year). Imagine what the distributor price will be. Around 300-350? You would also be amazed at all the film and photography materials still available from stock. An eldorado! The sorry thing is none of these shops take an interest in selling through the Internet. So the one who does can (and does) charge anything. The best and cheapest splices come from CIR Catozzo splicers :)

Nope! QED actually by the latest post. I am right as just proven.

I submit that this thread will be closed by the administrator. The nonsense is now complete. Some people need a reality check and need to refrain from posting.

Don't know what to calll cheap. I have seen original bills with cameras you mention of the late 70ies and early 80ies which easily hit 2000 Deutsch Mark. Depending on exchange rate US$ 1000+ And I don't think anybody called that cheap at the time. Please elaborate a bit more on these home built top bird-house style cameras. I find this a bit hard to believe . :) You are not refering to these Mekels which had a wood-patern lining ?

I thought this implies: that Kodak had numerous K14 labs around the globe (world).

Well, of course they will work through the heap and not close down the machines. They should re-open them as there are 100.000s of filsm still around. Why stop a moneymaking business? Makes you wonder how Kodak managed in the old-times. After the holiday season they likely got these amounts every hour at numbers of locations across the globe :)

The Leicina and Beaulieu are easy on maintenance as there no rubber belts. And parts can be re-manufactured of transplanted from donor-machines. I don't think the Special is all that noisy. Many cameras may seem noisy when you have them at your face. The sound level at the place of the microphone should be judged. I doubt overhauled 6080 actually do get new belts. The rest of it is maintenance free. So what are you spending money on? There is no insurance on it. If you find one nice and quiet run a test film and that would be it. The 9008 (but not all) has 16:9 markings. After all it are refurbished 6008 with repainted bodies and some mods built in. I don't see any advantage over using 6008 or 7008. Unless you want a full frame ground glass. There are far more 6008s :) Just be sure to run it with a 9 volt powersource or a 8.4 volt pack. This makes the camera far more lively/energetic. At these arms and legs charging businesses. What garantees do you get? Swap or money back. Nothing beyond that.

This new book would be the one with the photograph of Mark Zuckerberg look-a-like with the Movexoom 3000 camera on the cover? :)

Don't contradict me on an assumption or vague hearsay. They are not claws. They work exactly as I describe them. I know. The film-moving-claw resides in the longer top slot. The two stop pins are in the lower slot. good luck with your camera.

From a distance it is a bit difficult to tell what is wrong with your camera :) The non-moving registration-pin is not the cause because of this alone. It is not supposed to move. It is not like a claw or registration pin which goes in and out. It functions a bit like a woodpecker and it will hold the film still when the claw has left the film and the pick-up drive is pulling continiously. So it is a spring driven wedged feeler which allows the claw to push the film through and makes it stand still when there is no pushing. There are two of these pins, one active at the time for the chosen direction. If you alternate the direction tou may notice that one moves back from the film and the other comes forward to the film. If transport is poor it may be caused by: poor cartridge insufficient pull from the pick-up drive lack of psuhing power from the claw wrong adjustment of the claw insufficient power from the general drive motor

So, to conclude a long thread in brief. Either somewhere some factory makes a run of 100-500 new super-8-cartridge suitable cameras with simple basic features and an universal interchangeable lens which they then can hope to sell in 5 years. Or somewhere somebody starts buying one or two camera types of these same specs, refurbishes them professionally and sells these from a small stock. A bit like pro-8 has been doing but then without their style of customer treatment and :) I.e. Wittner in Germany.

The AI factor doesn't play. More important is to have lenses which have an aperture ring. The modern G types and later don't have this ring. So you cannot set the aperture. Important is to have an adapter which as an easy to use lever or remote control inlet to open/close the aperture when you are ready shoot. The original Nikon F-C adapter is by far finest :)

Here you have the Noris Infinator add-on. It holds and runs maximum 30 meter of film. It is fun but you need a durable and capable projector to fit it to.

Turnaround is much quicker than it has ever been before. Just be glad with it. It is certainly going out at a high point. Kodak Switserland used much more time then Dwayne's does. Why on earth is Kodak stopping supplies to Dwayne's If they are happy why needs Kodak to sabotage other people's business? This tight planning in winter time when transport can be frustrated by snow and such is just asking for complications.

Find an Elmo with a Non-Flicker prism. Motordriven if you like, be sure the belts are OK. Must it have sound, for old film? Indeed it is best to install a halogen, with some effort you can find 6 Volt ones. Don't overdo the Watt as the transformer will not deliver that much more.

to all DS-8 filmers :) I acquired a bunch of Kodachrome 25 DS-8 30meters exp 1991 this summer. All from one frozen lot I shot a number of rolls which came out fine. As there is very little time left to have the remainder exposed and processed I am offering a few of my last rolls for a bargain sale. 200 ft of super-8 images Euro 25 per DS-8 30meter roll piece, shipping against actual cost. It is cheaper than BW! I have paypal, IBAN banking, and will ship the same day. Retro road trips grabs Get some inspiration here, if you need it: sunny and wintery www.retroroadtrips.com

I suppose most posters in this thread are DS-8 filmers :) I acquired a bunch of Kodachrome 25 DS-8 30meters exp 1991 this summer. All from one frozen lot. I shot a number of rolls which came out fine. As there is very little time left to have the remainder exposed and processed I am offering a few of my last rolls for a bargain sale. 200 ft of super-8 images Euro 25 per DS-8 30meter roll piece, shipping against actual cost. It is cheaper than BW! I have paypal, IBAN banking, and will ship the same day. Get some inspiration here, if you need it: sunny and wintery www.retroroadtrips.com

There is the original shoulder pod with proper grip. Which makes a perfect couple. But of course the Special is a system camera and needed to have a flat surfaced bottom for proper support mounting. How could a fixed grip or ergonomic foldable one render a flat surface. Not. Either it is fixed and in the way of things or it would be fold forward and be in the way of possible lab gear or mounted optics. Google for Leicina Special and notice how many scientific reports show up where a Leicina was used for studies and registration :)